• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

Skinners Sprint Micra

SuperUno said:
Cool - many thanks and is that with a Bogg Bros inlet manifold? Or can you make your own from a cut-up standard inlet manifold?
Click to expand...

It is a BoggBros one mate, they do a very neat job and I asked them to offset them to the right so I could keep the brake servo. Also asked for a vac take off on cylinder 1 as well
 
Skinner_87 said:
It's already running the bike carbs and standard spark at the minute bud.

Next is stand alone management with bike throttle bodies a similar setup to Mike Jones etc

Yeh there was about 25 cars off and on all day. ( I wanted to stay out of the way of the loonies to be honest so went out when they came back in lol)

Swopping to a carb setup wouldn't take much more than 30mins, I suppose it's getting the standard mani off that eats the time!
Click to expand...

What ecu are you going for?
 
Doing the club proud there Paul, as always :p

Any photos of the boot latches you have from inside or with the boot open?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
SirChris said:
Lol on way to doing this to the new car. Pretty patterns lol
Click to expand...

could try this with a semi-automatic chris? :D

ca.jpg
 
Had my first attempt at some fibre glassing. Quite please with the results not pritty but so long as it's water tight and a bit of filler on the back should see it right

 
SirChris said:
What you doing for plate lights. Literally going for bare skin approach for new build. You got poly windows ? Including boot?
Click to expand...

Iv left the little hole in the middle to put a bulb in for the plate light bud, just paint half the bulb black so it shines down :)

Iv Poly driver and passenger windows but yes the rear screen and 1/4 windows will go Polly as well over the next month or so.

I'm hoping to prep the tailgate for paint to save a few quid at the sprayers
 
Bang on. I figured all of would need was one bulb to make people happy. I have been thinking of how hard it would be to make a rear fb tailgate... I would literally just put a square In the back of poly to see what's about to crush me.
 
I would like to personally apologise for my terrible English. I shall ensure that such bad grammar and structure will be a thing of the past in upcoming posts.
 
SirChris said:
Bang on. I figured all of would need was one bulb to make people happy. I have been thinking of how hard it would be to make a rear fb tailgate... I would literally just put a square In the back of poly to see what's about to crush me.
Click to expand...

I had the same thought mate! With a oval window in the back, beetle style, I just had an old tailgate I could hack up.
 
It'd be a bitch if you were to try make an inner and outer skin. Wouldn't be too bad making a mould for the outer skin and finding a way to join it the chassis, just time consuming

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
See you would unstitch the outer skin. Or. Basically make a tailgate and literally have four locking pins to the chassis... Would not having sealing attributes though. Making a new out skin with flat poly window is doable though.
 
After a run around the TT course yesterday to blow the cobwebs off I noticed the rear discs had not been touched. Still a light rust on them, so the calipers don't seem to be up to much back there! sticking piston mech no doubt. A little job for one evening this week
 
Skinner_87 said:
After a run around the TT course yesterday to blow the cobwebs off I noticed the rear discs had not been touched. Still a light rust on them, so the calipers don't seem to be up to much back there! sticking piston mech no doubt. A little job for one evening this week
Click to expand...
Man, you running a modified brake line system? You not thought of running a brake bias adjuster in the cabin. I set my under the shell bias valve to put a bit more anchor at the back... Seems to give more life to the caliper as more regular use. The next build is due to have in cabin adjustment. Seems a good way to test.
 
Paul already has a bias adjuster I thought

The load bias valves want binning on those K11s
More weight you lose on the rear the less the car will have rear brakes
 
SirChris said:
If setup correctly I am sure they help under hard breaking as the ass lifts.
Click to expand...
Are we on about the same thing? :p
The less load you have on the rear the less rear braking you have using those valves. Not too sure how you'd set them up, but it would eliminate the use of any in-car bias valve you introduce that's why I say bin em and just have the in-car one

We're fortunate on the K10 to not have those load-sensing valves on the rear
 
h701micra said:
The less load you have on the rear the less rear braking you have using those valves. Not too sure how you'd set them up, but it would eliminate the use of any in-car bias valve you introduce that's why I say bin em and just have the in-car one

We're fortunate on the K10 to not have those load-sensing valves on the rear
Click to expand...
Oh I was saying on stock car it can be altered to be useful. I suggest removing it completely
. fixed rate breaking. With in cabin bias
 
SirChris said:
Man, you running a modified brake line system? You not thought of running a brake bias adjuster in the cabin. I set my under the shell bias valve to put a bit more anchor at the back... Seems to give more life to the caliper as more regular use. The next build is due to have in cabin adjustment. Seems a good way to test.
Click to expand...

That's just the thing mate. Mine runs to a bias valve in the footwell, passenger side. It was working a treat normally but even with full rear bias the backs are barely scrapping the rust off the disc's :(

Quick once over should sort them.
 
SirChris said:
Man, you running a modified brake line system? You not thought of running a brake bias adjuster in the cabin. I set my under the shell bias valve to put a bit more anchor at the back... Seems to give more life to the caliper as more regular use. The next build is due to have in cabin adjustment. Seems a good way to test.
Click to expand...
Deffinatley a good way to test mate, I swop mine around during practice. Quick and easy between course as well

 
Skinner_87 said:
After a run around the TT course yesterday to blow the cobwebs off I noticed the rear discs had not been touched. Still a light rust on them, so the calipers don't seem to be up to much back there! sticking piston mech no doubt. A little job for one evening this week
Click to expand...

paul, perhaps give both of em a full on overhaul.
these rear calipers are notorious for seizing from rust.

common issues I found with em over the years that causes a chain reaction:
  • the exposed shaft of the rotating handbrake lever arm on the caliper tends to rust and create a rough edge.
  • this wears out the delicate rubber shaft seal lip thats suppose to keep elements out the greased mechanism.
  • years of rain n dirt gets in through the damaged seal while grease gets squeezed out
  • contaminated grease gunks up
  • exposed internal steel with moisture rusts n mixes with the remaining grease till it all dries up leading to sticky handbrake mechanism and then becomes fully seized
k550i-1020-jpg.31415
k550i-1017-jpg.29142


http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-2#post-391187

  • water gets between the exposed piston head and where the rubber dust boot meets the groove on the piston head
  • the piston begins to rust with the moisture and the tiny amount of brake fluid fed from a tiny feed hole in the groove is no longer able to provide enough lubrication & protection
  • the piston and dust boot begin to stick together from the rust, making it hard to twist/retract the piston when replacing pads
  • the rust gets in and blocks off the tiny feed hole in the piston/dust boot groove
  • rust spreads into the space between the bore inside the piston and the rotating female threaded block inside it (when u release the handbrake and apply hydraulic brakes the piston normally makes the female thread spin/unscrew closer to the disc like the drum brakes self adjuster. when you apply handbrake, the male handbrake thread jams the female block against the piston and the two flat faces lock together to prevent the female block from turning loose)
  • the rust locks the female threaded block to the piston so it can no longer self adjust the handbrake and when u press the footbrake to move the piston ur also fighting against the return spring for the handbrakes male threaded shaft before the rear pads touch the disc. And by the time the rear pads touch & begins braking, the front pads have already applied enough braking force. therefore the rear brakes seem abit under-used than usual.
dsc08902-jpg.27156
dsc09446-jpg.33136
dsc09447-jpg.33134


http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-100#post-652049

  • and obviously the piston seal tends to corrode onto the chrome plated piston wall
 
Skinner_87 said:
Welcome any time lad.


A little update, formed rear poly screen and rear 1/4 windows ordered.

Not a bad price so we will see what the qualitys like, supposed to have a good reputation :)
Click to expand...

Why thank you, I will take it up some day.

Where you get them? If you don't mind me asking.
 
SirChris said:
Why thank you, I will take it up some day.

Where you get them? If you don't mind me asking.
Click to expand...

Not at all bud, templarperformance, someone else here used then and the prices arnt too bank busting. £140 for the back screen I thought was good considering it's thermo formed,

2 week lead time so il post a few pics up when they get here
 

Similar threads

Skinner_87
Sprint / Rally Micra
Replies
5
Views
3K
Skinner_87
Skinner_87
D
My dolomite sprint with CA18DET Turbo Conversion.
Replies
16
Views
3K
Deacon
D
will_halligan
  • Locked
whalligan's Modded Micra S Rebuild!
Replies
2
Views
2K
Tom 1.0
Tom 1.0
Skinner_87
Event: Manx Classic 2012 Sprint & Hillclimb 26th 27th 28th April
Replies
8
Views
2K
Low Rider
Low Rider
A
Micra Virgin.
Replies
8
Views
928
k11TZZ
k11TZZ
Back
Top