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Skinners Sprint Micra
- Thread starter Skinner_87
- Start date
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Same as factory but more positive mate, A little notch at slower speeds but iv not drivin it with the gearknob on yet I'm looking to bend the stick back towards me so it's right at hands reach
you got to keep an eye on what frank does with his rod
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/micra-k11-short-shift-leaver.41941/#post-438497
I had a more harder to get into gear situation.
where the stock under body gear stick length is the gear change sweet spot. needing the short shift mech happening above it? im guessing
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/micra-k11-short-shift-leaver.41941/#post-438497
I had a more harder to get into gear situation.
where the stock under body gear stick length is the gear change sweet spot. needing the short shift mech happening above it? im guessing
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Bit of a boring update but the shifters now finished, stick re bent and gaiter made up. And inch or so between gears 
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looks awsome paul
Cheers buddy, .... Just for you
Think il drop the seat forward one more notch but shifting is more natural now
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I used to mate but decided not to rally it so took it out, yeh plumbed in on the floor and I bolt a hand held into the passenger seat rails when I'm doing the hillclimbs and stuff
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OPERATION LOOSE LOTS OF WEIGHT AND GO REALLY FAST!!
Iv bit the bullet and before and throttle bodies get thrown around iv decided to put the car on a diet again. Is 700kg a bit too much to aim for? Started to strip the heater/blower etc. is it possible to remove the heater cowling without having to drain the coolant.
Thinking up a new dash pod & getting ready to prep the inside for paint. (all white)
Iv bit the bullet and before and throttle bodies get thrown around iv decided to put the car on a diet again. Is 700kg a bit too much to aim for? Started to strip the heater/blower etc. is it possible to remove the heater cowling without having to drain the coolant.
Thinking up a new dash pod & getting ready to prep the inside for paint. (all white
)
frank
Club Member
those steering column brackets weigh a fair bit paul, i got mine down to 740kg,s eh, but you,ve added about 100 kg,s with the rally equipment tho http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=64865
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Ah I might be pushing my luck with 700 then. Iv another steering column bracket from the different type dash
that only goes on the drivers side
pollyp
Club Member
how bout remove the whole heating/vent system itself including the blower motor, windscreen vent, console, matrix, thermostat-matrix hose, matrix-return pipe hose, blank off the thermostat outlet port.
saves afew kilos in material and fluid weight plus loadsa room.
without heater in the way, that steering support pipe could then be made to go straight across between the A-pillar base to be stronger and possibly lighter.
for clearing the windscreen, perhaps fit a demister windscreen.
for cabin vent in summer, either open windows or fit roof air scoops or fit and air scoop above the scuttle panel intake.
saves afew kilos in material and fluid weight plus loadsa room.
without heater in the way, that steering support pipe could then be made to go straight across between the A-pillar base to be stronger and possibly lighter.
for clearing the windscreen, perhaps fit a demister windscreen.
for cabin vent in summer, either open windows or fit roof air scoops or fit and air scoop above the scuttle panel intake.
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@pollyp you beat me too it Paul
The blower etc came out tonight, il look at getting some pipe to deleted the heater, il rewire the rad fan if it runs hotter but it never has in the past!
For demisting il use the screen clear the rally guys use
Two little PC fans in the drivers door for ventilation maybe
The blower etc came out tonight, il look at getting some pipe to deleted the heater, il rewire the rad fan if it runs hotter but it never has in the past!
For demisting il use the screen clear the rally guys use
Two little PC fans in the drivers door for ventilation maybe
h701micra
Deactivated Account
I reckon you'll crack 700kg Paul
Is it 700kg race weight though or 700kg dry?
You could make an aluminium bracket for the steering column, that'd save you some weight
Try relocate some weight to the rear left too to offset front weight and yourself for the nice balance
A bilge pump/fan with ventilation pipework is plenty to keep you cool
Is it 700kg race weight though or 700kg dry?
You could make an aluminium bracket for the steering column, that'd save you some weight
Try relocate some weight to the rear left too to offset front weight and yourself for the nice balance
A bilge pump/fan with ventilation pipework is plenty to keep you cool
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There's a point the batteries still factory size at the moment!
pollyp
Club Member
They weigh quite a lot with all the liquid acid. Time for a motorbike batt off em TT bikes? Or hand crank? Or push/down hill start.
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Iv my eye on a nice 2kg bike battery that iv seen running an evo converted mini so that should cope
The exhaust is on a diet too, side exit straight pipe from behind the drivers seat should see 1/3 of the systems weight removed
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Just about read to start prepping for paint. (If the spray gun ever turns up!)
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One white interior
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Rad delete done and dusted
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Few more bits to help shed the weight
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Wiring all tidied up, new gague pod in and plumbed / wired
SuperUno
Buy & Sell Member
You mean every GRAM counts !
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Cockpits back together, battery and kill switch to go in soon and re meshing the front grill after losing it on the last hillclimb!!
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Would much rather spend 9-5 in this one that's for sure
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Few more boring pics, crossmember light metalware and toe hook spruced up, front cage loops painted up and battery cut off bracket sorted.
While the bumpers off il try and swop the crash bar for an alloy alternative
While the bumpers off il try and swop the crash bar for an alloy alternative
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Cars back up running for the first time since the heater removal. A little confused, rads topped up and bled. All hoses are hot and pressurised, rads warm top to bottom but the temp gague on the dash is still resting at cold!
pollyp
Club Member
is it connected?
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Yep loom to the dials in tight, all plugs to the head in as well. The connectors to the interior fan / heater blower are obviously not connected but that's not part of the wiring for the dials surely?
pollyp
Club Member
nope just a straight live wiring from sensor to gauge.
check the gauge is working by shorting the gauge sensor wire to Ground, should flick up to hot.
if thats working, check the coolant gauge sensor Ohm/Deg is within spec.
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Coolant temp gauge has been sorted, after cutting the loom insulation back there was a break in the wire, cut this out and soldered in a new piece, first time with heat shrink, came out well
Stripped and rebuilt the oil pressure gauge as well as a small leak had left a mark on the inner facia. Tommorrow hopefully the final parts to be painted up and put the cage back in
Stripped and rebuilt the oil pressure gauge as well as a small leak had left a mark on the inner facia. Tommorrow hopefully the final parts to be painted up and put the cage back in
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Fire away mateGot some questions for you my good man
Be Prepared
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Bulkhead sealed up with bulkhead battery mount ready for wiring. Found a nice spot for the battery where the passengers seat can still go in now and again as well
Oh and the cage is all back in except the passenger door bar
Oh and the cage is all back in except the passenger door bar
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