rc petrol/nitro car
- Thread starter jim_bling
- Start date
2004_Micra
Ex. Club Member
model active in chester-le-street
Antony
Ex. Club Member
ah, the thunder tiger ts-4n
i had the full carbon race version of that with a novarossi ctp12R turbo engine and Shark racing tuned pipe.. mental car as i put a conrod through the side of the block.lol
the engines are realy easy to start and run, make sure you have a new plug, theres loads of compression, (its realy hard to pull the starter) and your fuel is clean and new (not coloured)
test all the pipes for breakages, make sure the low speed needle is flush with the carbourettor (the horizontal valve) and the high speed needle is turned all the way in then 3 1/2 turns out. this is rich "safe" running in setting. it will start on this but will have no power.
if the engine hasnt been run in it will need to be idled on half a tank, let to cool, then run around on minimal throttle for a full tank with the body off, let to cool then tuned as per unstructions....... never ever leave it stood for very long without air running over the engine (ignore any instructions that tell you different) as it will over heat and ruin the engine.
after this running in period you should turn the high speed needle (the sticky out one) clock wise 1/2 turn and test the performance if its sluggish and loads of smoke its too rich and needs to be leaned off, again turn the needle 1/4 turn and test untill theres no more performance increase and theres a nice line of smoke from the exhaust, when you have found this sweet spot turn the needle 1/8th turn back for safety and off you go!!!
and have fun
i had the full carbon race version of that with a novarossi ctp12R turbo engine and Shark racing tuned pipe.. mental car as i put a conrod through the side of the block.lol
the engines are realy easy to start and run, make sure you have a new plug, theres loads of compression, (its realy hard to pull the starter) and your fuel is clean and new (not coloured)
test all the pipes for breakages, make sure the low speed needle is flush with the carbourettor (the horizontal valve) and the high speed needle is turned all the way in then 3 1/2 turns out. this is rich "safe" running in setting. it will start on this but will have no power.
if the engine hasnt been run in it will need to be idled on half a tank, let to cool, then run around on minimal throttle for a full tank with the body off, let to cool then tuned as per unstructions....... never ever leave it stood for very long without air running over the engine (ignore any instructions that tell you different) as it will over heat and ruin the engine.
after this running in period you should turn the high speed needle (the sticky out one) clock wise 1/2 turn and test the performance if its sluggish and loads of smoke its too rich and needs to be leaned off, again turn the needle 1/4 turn and test untill theres no more performance increase and theres a nice line of smoke from the exhaust, when you have found this sweet spot turn the needle 1/8th turn back for safety and off you go!!!
and have fun
Antony
Ex. Club Member
i do both, i have.. egherm
a team lossi XXX-s Graphite+ team eddition Worlds spec matt francis SE touring car (what a name) running novak SS brushless system, foam tyres and team orion RDS matched 4600MAH ni-mh packs, teflon belts, blue titanium screws, nitride coated diff balls, hi-tec sr745mg hi speed servo. loadsa money
Tamiya FF-02 peugeot 306 maxi wrc running oil filled tamiya team shocks, aluminium chassis braces, yokomo 19turn spec motor, modelsportuk 3000mah stick pack, team lossi yellow dot racing slicks on dish wheels, full ball race set, manta ray ball differential, tamiya mini anti-roll bars, aluminium suspension arms, hub carriers and steering arms.
Yokomo MR4BC-super dog fighter 2, special options pack, team orion Vantage "dynasty" 19turn motor, team spec carbon front and rear shock towers, teflon coated shocks front and rear, bow-tie tyres, orion 3300mah cells, full rubber sealed ball races (degreased and lightly oiled) titanium nitride ball diffs, teflon belts.
Traxxas Tmaxx monster truck, team orion slicks, mrp drive shafts and prop shafts, carbon twin disk brakes, very high torque metal gear servo's, ball raced throughout, froward only conversion, osram 2400mah reciever pack, robinsons racing metal gear spur, 8x aluminium shocks (threaded with low rider springs) schumacher fusion .21 racing engine with cut down crank to fit t-maxx clutch, pumpless fuel tank, aluminium suspension arms and body mounts, titanium skid plates front to back and braced bulkheads, glued "spool" rear diff.
Kyosho lazer 1-10 (from 1983) bare chassis with centre diff front and rear diffs mounted and top chassis plate... non running.
kyosho lazer 2000, as stock 540 motor 2000 ni-cd's etc
tamiya m02-l porsche boxster, converted to FWD and shortened to fit mini bodyshell, stock running gear.
Schumacher fusion 75mph off road truck, sold everything but bulkheads and engine,
HPI rush eveo, 1 brand new in box, 1 ex demo unit bit tatty but working, 1 for spares.
HPI nitro MT2, 1 for spares, 1 sealed in box.
so i have 10 RC cars.
i used to own a carbon spec TS4N with novarossi ctp12R turbo race engine, that was running on foams too. it was awesome in the winter series races..
i also used to sell them and strip and re-build them for a living. i also have a BRCA licence and have a trophy for the national "non qualifiers" 3rd place. (i did 5 races)
any questions and i will know the answers...
a team lossi XXX-s Graphite+ team eddition Worlds spec matt francis SE touring car (what a name) running novak SS brushless system, foam tyres and team orion RDS matched 4600MAH ni-mh packs, teflon belts, blue titanium screws, nitride coated diff balls, hi-tec sr745mg hi speed servo. loadsa money
Tamiya FF-02 peugeot 306 maxi wrc running oil filled tamiya team shocks, aluminium chassis braces, yokomo 19turn spec motor, modelsportuk 3000mah stick pack, team lossi yellow dot racing slicks on dish wheels, full ball race set, manta ray ball differential, tamiya mini anti-roll bars, aluminium suspension arms, hub carriers and steering arms.
Yokomo MR4BC-super dog fighter 2, special options pack, team orion Vantage "dynasty" 19turn motor, team spec carbon front and rear shock towers, teflon coated shocks front and rear, bow-tie tyres, orion 3300mah cells, full rubber sealed ball races (degreased and lightly oiled) titanium nitride ball diffs, teflon belts.
Traxxas Tmaxx monster truck, team orion slicks, mrp drive shafts and prop shafts, carbon twin disk brakes, very high torque metal gear servo's, ball raced throughout, froward only conversion, osram 2400mah reciever pack, robinsons racing metal gear spur, 8x aluminium shocks (threaded with low rider springs) schumacher fusion .21 racing engine with cut down crank to fit t-maxx clutch, pumpless fuel tank, aluminium suspension arms and body mounts, titanium skid plates front to back and braced bulkheads, glued "spool" rear diff.
Kyosho lazer 1-10 (from 1983) bare chassis with centre diff front and rear diffs mounted and top chassis plate... non running.
kyosho lazer 2000, as stock 540 motor 2000 ni-cd's etc
tamiya m02-l porsche boxster, converted to FWD and shortened to fit mini bodyshell, stock running gear.
Schumacher fusion 75mph off road truck, sold everything but bulkheads and engine,
HPI rush eveo, 1 brand new in box, 1 ex demo unit bit tatty but working, 1 for spares.
HPI nitro MT2, 1 for spares, 1 sealed in box.
so i have 10 RC cars.
i used to own a carbon spec TS4N with novarossi ctp12R turbo race engine, that was running on foams too. it was awesome in the winter series races..
i also used to sell them and strip and re-build them for a living. i also have a BRCA licence and have a trophy for the national "non qualifiers" 3rd place. (i did 5 races)
any questions and i will know the answers...
pjg1979
THIS IS MY BOOMSTICK!
I see a mini meet coming on at ferrybridge - Me, Ant and Jim, lol.
Well I know there is a lot of interest in my one but it could be more but packing a Tool Box, RC Car and Spare Shell as well as loads of over pieces like Controller, Nitro e.t.c. The car ends 6 days from now but I am willing to meet this saturday Jim if you want?
Well I know there is a lot of interest in my one but it could be more but packing a Tool Box, RC Car and Spare Shell as well as loads of over pieces like Controller, Nitro e.t.c. The car ends 6 days from now but I am willing to meet this saturday Jim if you want?
I love RC Stuff. I just got a new one...
http://www.edsworld.co.uk/videos/newtoy.mp4
Youll need MP4 capable player/codec to view it....
http://www.edsworld.co.uk/videos/newtoy.mp4
Youll need MP4 capable player/codec to view it....
I had a Thunder Tiger DT-10 I believe.. or something similary to that.
I'd recommend a Kyosho. They are the boys. My Thunder Tiger was for off roading mostly.
Mine cost about £300, that was for a spare glowplug, glowplug lighter, charger, batteries, reciever and a nice 0.5bhp engine
Oh yeah, and as for North East; I'll take you to the best place I know.
My neighbour is a right enthusiast with this stuff; it's in Chester-le-Street the nearest place.
Wanna go down sometime this week Ken?
I'd recommend a Kyosho. They are the boys. My Thunder Tiger was for off roading mostly.
Mine cost about £300, that was for a spare glowplug, glowplug lighter, charger, batteries, reciever and a nice 0.5bhp engine
Oh yeah, and as for North East; I'll take you to the best place I know.
My neighbour is a right enthusiast with this stuff; it's in Chester-le-Street the nearest place.
Wanna go down sometime this week Ken?
