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PROject PROfect

I was talking about the hand pump wax oil jobbies. So no frank isn't on the same page lol

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MicraPRO said:
Ok so been busy on ebay and bought Millie some new parts.
New cam cover gasket.
Both coolant sensors.
A pack of gasket paper for my throttle body.
And of course the turbo which is a Garrett GT15 44S from a Vectra/Zafira 2.0DTI
Will be sorting a manifold asap.
This will be a time taken turbo build... I plan on keeping the car for a long time so there is no rush.
my main priority is chassis work and preparing the shell for more power.
This will be made harder by the fact that shes my daily, there is no spare car to drive while shes off the road so days off and afternoons will be when work is completed.
Click to expand...
is that turbo bellys setup?
 
MicraPRO said:
He didnt say how much float but said it was in good condition will measure end float as soon as it gets here.
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2mm is Bella bad lol. To be be honest you need some proper equipment to check it. Just check it side to side. Then in and out. Just be really careful. Don't bash it around. If it hardly move you are Quid's in. Mine never moved really.. Then I upped the boost and the shaft is un balance so now it's shagged.

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SirChris said:
2mm is Bella bad lol. To be be honest you need some proper equipment to check it. Just check it side to side. Then in and out. Just be really careful. Don't bash it around. If it hardly move you are Quid's in. Mine never moved really.. Then I upped the boost and the shaft is un balance so now it's shagged.

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Click to expand...
Ahhh right gotcha...
He said its fine so we will see.
 
a fraction of a mm play is normal for journal turbo bearings cos they usually float on a film of pressurised oil.
but when clearances wear too much beyond that, say 2mm+ then it starts to have problem with losing oil pressure at the bearing, seal issues and accelerated wear. all leads to smoking exhaust.
 
pollyp said:
a fraction of a mm play is normal for journal turbo bearings cos they usually float on a film of pressurised oil.
but when clearances wear too much beyond that, say 2mm+ then it starts to have problem with losing oil pressure at the bearing, seal issues and accelerated wear. all leads to smoking exhaust.
Click to expand...
I would also say that these rebuild kits are a bit silly? Surely the imbalance of he turbine causes the issues? Well contributes greatly. I think I am just going to buy a turbo from turbo technics.

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SirChris said:
I would also say that these rebuild kits are a bit silly? Surely the imbalance of he turbine causes the issues? Well contributes greatly. I think I am just going to buy a turbo from turbo technics.

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Click to expand...

if ur just replacing seals and bearings, long as you mark the exact turbine/compressor/nut angle and align it on assembly, it'll be as balanced as it was beforehand (assuming it was).

if ur replacing any damaged rotating parts then they'll need rebalancing.
dunno what the labour cost is but if its more than the cost of a used turbo, I'd just buy a used turbo with good condition blades and rebuild it with the new bearing/seals if required.
 
pollyp said:
if ur just replacing seals and bearings, long as you mark the exact turbine/compressor/nut angle and align it on assembly, it'll be as balanced as it was beforehand (assuming it was).

if ur replacing any damaged rotating parts then they'll need rebalancing.
dunno what the labour cost is but if its more than the cost of a used turbo, I'd just buy a used turbo with good condition blades and rebuild it with the new bearing/seals if required.
Click to expand...
At 120kRPM you'd be surprised how much even a mocroscopic amount of alteration makes. Also, the inner bearing races on a ball bearing turbo will not be balanced perfectly etc
 
Enuo said:
At 120kRPM you'd be surprised how much even a mocroscopic amount of alteration makes. Also, the inner bearing races on a ball bearing turbo will not be balanced perfectly etc
Click to expand...

every little helps.
aye they spin really fast :)

if only someone invents a high-temp levetating bearing to eliminate any oil feed & shaft friction.
then join the turbine, shaft & compressor non-mechanically through magnetic coupling (like some aquatic pumps) so no chance for any leakage but still able to transfers torque between the turbine/compressor.

pie in sky idea.
 
pollyp said:
every little helps.
aye they spin really fast :)

if only someone invents a high-temp levetating bearing to eliminate any oil feed & shaft friction.
then join the turbine, shaft & compressor non-mechanically through magnetic coupling (like some aquatic pumps) so no chance for any leakage but still able to transfers torque between the turbine/compressor.

pie in sky idea.
Click to expand...
Dem sounds like magic

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pollyp said:
every little helps.
aye they spin really fast :)

if only someone invents a high-temp levetating bearing to eliminate any oil feed & shaft friction.
then join the turbine, shaft & compressor non-mechanically through magnetic coupling (like some aquatic pumps) so no chance for any leakage but still able to transfers torque between the turbine/compressor.

pie in sky idea.
Click to expand...
Well volunteered

Keep us posted
 
MicraPRO said:
Just got a message saying turbo will be here tomo yay :)
Click to expand...
galen2.jpg
 
@frank took your advice and as you can see got a GT15 with external wastegate... small diesel turbo for low rpm spooling.
Just need to get a Zafira manifold to cut the flange off and the dump pipe flange to connect it up...
Been also looking into getting a full turbo back exhaust made up in stainless :cool: had some reasonable quotes too.
 
is it a +ve pressure WG or vacuum operated WG system? from a diesel or petrol engine?
wanna make sure the +ve compressor pressure feeding into the WG is trying to open the WG valve rather than closing it tighter.
 
pollyp said:
is it a +ve pressure WG or vacuum operated WG system? from a diesel or petrol engine?
wanna make sure the +ve compressor pressure feeding into the WG is trying to open the WG valve rather than closing it tighter.
Click to expand...
Erm... when the wastegate is pushed closed and I put my finger over the other end and then release my finger the drop in pressure opens the wastegate...
So it is postitive pressure.
Its from a diesel Zafira 2.0dti.
 
So after cleaning up I decided to have a look at placement, christ its tight!
But think ive found a way it will work.
Only problem is radiator will need moving forward slightly.
And the dip stick is in the way of where my dump pipe would go.
Rather irritating.
1396370194692.jpg

1396370221312.jpg

You can see in this one the wastegate is resting on the radiator.
1396370273254.jpg

Think ill have to get the welder and see what kind of manifold design I can come up with.
1396370365807.jpg

Any advice always taken... :)
 
MicraPRO said:
So after cleaning up I decided to have a look at placement, christ its tight!
But think ive found a way it will work.
Only problem is radiator will need moving forward slightly.
And the dip stick is in the way of where my dump pipe would go.
Rather irritating.

You can see in this one the wastegate is resting on the radiator.

Think ill have to get the welder and see what kind of manifold design I can come up with.

Any advice always taken... :)
Click to expand...

baaaags of room with a north/south setup tom :)

P4010748.JPG
P4010754.JPG
P4010752.JPG
 
Hmm fair enough frank im guessing your slam panel does go back on?
Can you take a look at the pics of my wastegate? Does it look correct polly mentioned postitive pressure. Opening it... and can you just confirm mine is an internal or external wastegate proper confused ???
 
frank said:
yes i took the slam and grille off to show you in detail mate :) and try a bike pump on the w/g pipe
Click to expand...
You legend :)
Not got a bike pump but ive got a good set of lungs...
With no pressure wastegate is and stays open if I suck in on the w/g pipe the w/g closes.
 
MicraPRO said:
You legend :)
Not got a bike pump but ive got a good set of lungs...
With no pressure wastegate is and stays open if I suck in on the w/g pipe the w/g closes.
Click to expand...
sounds like a vacuum one mate, and there,s no pipe fitting on the alloy compressor housing eh, my 1st two tubby,s were vacuum ones tom, i just fitted a + pressure actuator and repositioned the arm (i had to move the arm on most of mine, after clocking the turbo anyway) :)
 

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