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Progress Report on Chris Batch's 2.0 SR20DE conversion

Batch there must be some kind of problem if you have already managed to break a drive shaft, unless you cut and welded them or something. I wonder how many of these snapped shafts are down to install errors rather than power. If they were that weak then they would be breaking all the time on others nissans - which they dont seem to be. The primera GT ones - if those are the ones you are using are not weak either.
 
They're cut and welded Ed, nothing is standard any more. Clutch and accelerator cable are modified, driveshafts, fuel lines everything.

The shafts aren't angled forward or backward either, but because they are cut and welded they're going to be prone to breaking. Until i can get some new ones fabricated from scratch, i'll make do with custom ones. the current set seem to holding up ok.
 
What are you welding them with though.

Of all the drivehshafts that I have fabricated for my car, none have ever broken at the weld point.

Heavy wheelspinning does not help at all!!!
 
why dont you sleeve the welded part with a tube and weld the tube aswell ive seen it done on vauxhall conversions before and none of them to my knowlegde have snaped
 
Good idea, not sure whether this has been done on mine, however i'm not sure where the cut and welds have been made, i'll let my guy know and see what he says. Worth a try.
 
Driven it briefly once..had to stop cuz my legs were shaking lol

But yeah now everythings running ok i am dying to get it out on the tarmac and see how it performs. The guy who's doing the work for me is really impressed with it, he says it's ridiculously quick considering it only puts down maybe 60% of the power....roughly 150bhp :D
 
That's not strictly true...

I have the modified (late) tensioner from a roller rocker engine, and there is still quite a rattle on start up, but it disappears after a few seconds once the oil pressure is up!

Looking good though mate, can't wait to see some videos of it on the move!
 
if someone can comfirm that the sr20det engine uses the same upper chain tensioner as the sr20de then ill get the bulletin with the part number for you

all they did was change how many teeth are on it, the new one has alot more teeth than the old one


it could be that the lash adjusters are noisy but they are stupid price especially when you have 16 of them so its not cheap to replace all of them
 
Chris, for some reason I'm in a really happy mood. I'm glad you've come this far and I really can't wait to see this on the road.

I know we've only met once and that wasn't the greatest of starts (Howards bucket) but.... Hugs x
 
Pete said:
Chris, for some reason I'm in a really happy mood. I'm glad you've come this far and I really can't wait to see this on the road.

I know we've only met once and that wasn't the greatest of starts (Howards bucket) but.... Hugs x
Click to expand...

Hi there,

You'll have to forgive my abysmal memory but when did i meet you? I'm really good with faces but places and names are a blur to me :)
 
*crys himself into a corner*

Did JAE 03 or 04(can't remember which) mean nothing to you (seriously I am putting this on).
 
Yeah i assumed that was where i had met you but couldn't put my finger on it, seriously my memory is not great to put it mildly!
 
Just wondering, we're using the P11GT clutch and gearbox on the pulsar block, is there any way to alter the speed snesor so that it will read correctly on the pulsar clocks?

The P11 GT box has a two pin speedo output and the GTi-r speedo has 3 pins?

Does anyone know of a way to get round it?
 
Batch said:
Just wondering, we're using the P11GT clutch and gearbox on the pulsar block, is there any way to alter the speed snesor so that it will read correctly on the pulsar clocks?

The P11 GT box has a two pin speedo output and the GTi-r speedo has 3 pins?

Does anyone know of a way to get round it?
Click to expand...

Don't think so. I've got the same problem with the Primera box. Its about 10milers Per hour out over 60mph. Possibly a digital speedo?

Any pics yet?

Titch :kungfu:
 
Batch said:
Just wondering, we're using the P11GT clutch and gearbox on the pulsar block, is there any way to alter the speed snesor so that it will read correctly on the pulsar clocks?

The P11 GT box has a two pin speedo output and the GTi-r speedo has 3 pins?

Does anyone know of a way to get round it?
Click to expand...

why not fit the pulsar speedo sensor in the p11 box?
 
Can't, it's a much larger unit, not a straight swap unfortunately.

I just thought if anyone could figure what each of the pins returned in terms of information, i might be able to bridge two of the wires without it affecting the output...if you get my drift?!

make three wires in to two.
 
maybe on the pulsar one you have 3 pins, input, output and a earth, maybe on the p11 one you have only input and output pins

thats the only thing the 3rd pin could be unless you have wiring diagrams of both cars etc
 
You see this is what i thought, then all i'd need to do is get the speedo calibrated correctly? Have posted on the GTi-r Forums to see what they say but i should imagine this is what it'll turn out to be.

Have to wait and see. :)
 
alright mate does the front bumper and grill fit with the intercooler there?
Thinking of doing a front mounted one on the st
 
kristian said:
how about fit the actual speedo clock from a P11 GT..
Click to expand...

Hmm, good plan, surprisingly i hadn't thought of that! Nice one.

Will the fuel, temp and rev gauges react from the GTi-r ECU ouptut though? If not then it's a toss up between knowing how much fuel i have and how close it is to overheating......and knowing how fast i am going....toughy :s

Crazyep

Mines relatively large ( :) ), it will involve some extensive cutting to both the grill and bumper...obviously dependant on where exactly you fit it.

Luckily further down the line mine will be hiding behind the big mouth Carisma front bumper...however this will need modifying too. :(
 
Right, next problem lol

Clutch is starting to slip quite badly, due to it being a fairly bad fit on the Pulsar block. Anyone know where i can get a half decent paddle clutch?

Weird because if we tighten up the clutch cable it bites really well but it's quite difficult to get in to the gears (esp reverse), and if we loosen it off finding the gears is easier but it slips quite a bit.

Feels like maybe i need a spacer plate or something?

Anyone shed any light?

Or know where i can get an uprated or paddle unit from?

Thanks guys
 
Thanks, sooooooo close to completion now i can almost taste it. It's been in the shop for over a year now! :(

Still it's going well and it's.....going well!!! if you know what i mean. :)
 
Batch said:
Right, next problem lol

Clutch is starting to slip quite badly, due to it being a fairly bad fit on the Pulsar block. Anyone know where i can get a half decent paddle clutch?

Weird because if we tighten up the clutch cable it bites really well but it's quite difficult to get in to the gears (esp reverse), and if we loosen it off finding the gears is easier but it slips quite a bit.

Feels like maybe i need a spacer plate or something?

Anyone shed any light?

Or know where i can get an uprated or paddle unit from?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

What clutch do you have at the moment?
What flywheel are you using?
How much horsepower do you plan on eventually having?

Cheers

Dave
 
Standard P11GT Clutch and Gearbox :eek:
Standard Flywheel :eek:
Leaving it stock really i think, although the guy at the workshop keeps telling me to knock it up to 1 bar at least...not so sure myself. Should be pushing maybe 220-250bhp out of the shop, 300ish @ 1 bar. (i definitately wouldn't go higher than that, wouldn't really be worth it)

Thanks Dave, good to hear from you. I was tempted to PM you but i know you're using the P11 block + Turbo so i assumed you wouldn't have the same type of slippage problem.

Cheers mate
 
What's the point in knocking it up if you can't put the power down, you're just increasing the risk of engine failure, for not much gain. It would be worth it if you got all the power down you have now
 
Batch said:
Leaving it stock really i think, although the guy at the workshop keeps telling me to knock it up to 1 bar at least...not so sure myself. Should be pushing maybe 220-250bhp out of the shop, 300ish @ 1 bar. (i definitately wouldn't go higher than that, wouldn't really be worth it)
Click to expand...

Erm..... :p
 
what makes you think you will get 300bhp with just turning up the boost?, with mine ive got a 2.5" exhaust, filter and boost up to 14 and its probably only at 250, with a massive cooler in the front ill probably see 270.

standard n14 sr20det is 220
 
My record on STOCK Gtir (bar fmic and exhaust) is 320bhp. This was at 1.25 bar. My record on gtir modified if 465 bhp so far, and soon to be broken :)

They are very capable engines.
 
Not sure of the measurements of my cooler but it's not small, not that this is any guarantee.

These are only my estimates...won't know for sure until it's 'roaded'
 
hmm.....maybe eventualy having a competitor for Lil bandit..... a k11 and a k10 on the drag strip.......that would show a few people up in their skyline-penis extensions....
 
We'll see, like i say i don't know how fast it will be yet. It feels quick.

But then again it might well be slower than a GTi-r, due to lack of weight/traction and no 4wd (although this has a negative effect over straight line distance) to compensate.

I'd like mid 5's, but again this is only a guess.

In terms of power to weight ratio it's better than a dodge viper and porsche carrera (if i remember correctly). So in reality those 0-60 'should' be acheiveable dependant on environmental factors.

I'm not promising anything. :) but hell, it's a first as far as i'm aware and that's a start lol :D
 
but dont forget that a Dodge Viper and a Porche Carrera are a lot more streamlined, whereas the k10 has the aerodynamics of a brick, I know that aerodynamics play but a small part in the 0-60, but it surely does make some difference doesn't it ?
 
ohc_turbo said:
what makes you think you will get 300bhp with just turning up the boost?, with mine ive got a 2.5" exhaust, filter and boost up to 14 and its probably only at 250, with a massive cooler in the front ill probably see 270.

standard n14 sr20det is 220
Click to expand...

Because you've got a 2.5" system, and that sucks on a DET.

Get a 3" downpipe & system and you'll see another 25-30 HP!

Ed said:
My record on STOCK Gtir (bar fmic and exhaust) is 320bhp. This was at 1.25 bar. My record on gtir modified if 465 bhp so far, and soon to be broken :)

They are very capable engines.
Click to expand...

You made that on a stock air filter, MAF, injectors & fuel pressure?

Batch said:
Standard P11GT Clutch and Gearbox :eek:
Standard Flywheel :eek:
Leaving it stock really i think, although the guy at the workshop keeps telling me to knock it up to 1 bar at least...not so sure myself. Should be pushing maybe 220-250bhp out of the shop, 300ish @ 1 bar. (i definitately wouldn't go higher than that, wouldn't really be worth it)

Thanks Dave, good to hear from you. I was tempted to PM you but i know you're using the P11 block + Turbo so i assumed you wouldn't have the same type of slippage problem.

Cheers mate
Click to expand...

Stock P11 GT clutch...bad!!!

Stock gearbox...shouldn't be a problem with the K10 weight. Just watch the gear shifting from 2nd to 3rd and whatever you do, don't miss it. Once you take off part of the tooth on 3rd gear, the whole lot goes. Fingers crossed you won't break it!!!

By stock flywheel, I take it you mean the P11 GT flywheel, and you must have enlarged the bolt holes for the GTiR crank. This will laso be fine, but if you want a bit more response, then I recommend the Fidanza flywheel. I would buy it for any SR20DE(T) that I had...it's that good!

Get yourself a JGY street clutch...

http://www.jgycustoms.com/serg20/clutch.htm

This is what I have been using for the last 10 months and have had no problems with slippage or jerking (no, not that type ya dirty bar stewards).

Give them a call and ask for either Pam or Jason and tell them you need a JGY street clutch (6 puck sprung) for a B14 SE-R SR20 (215mm)...

0012767829100

Hope this helps!!!

Cheers

Dave

P.S. You should have let me know that you needed a clutch. I had an ACT HDSS clutch and sold it only a few weeks ago...nevermind!
 
NISMO_ALMERA said:
Just watch the gear shifting from 2nd to 3rd and whatever you do, don't miss it.
Click to expand...

Sorry to neb in....What do you mean by "missing it"? do you mean a gear crunch/grate/crash....ie the selector has been operated while the clutch in not dis-engaged?

NISMO_ALMERA said:
I had an ACT HDSS clutch and sold it only a few weeks ago...nevermind!
Click to expand...

I aint no cluch spec guru but this sounds like a "rub salt in the wound" job...chortle!!




Cheers chaps
 
NISMO_ALMERA said:
You made that on a stock air filter, MAF, injectors & fuel pressure?
Click to expand...

Stock maf (which is of no concern when using e-manage with boost sensor) and 700cc injectors. Most get around 300 on that setup with the RNN14 engines. Even if its r/r was a bit entuastic take it as 300 bhp its still good.

Ed
 
kristian said:
are these ok: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-R...005QQitemZ150063656616QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

One of these was all I was going to thow in with the Stock GBOX..
Click to expand...

It looks like an EBAY clutch...i.e. don't touch it!

SammoHung said:
Sorry to neb in....What do you mean by "missing it"? do you mean a gear crunch/grate/crash....ie the selector has been operated while the clutch in not dis-engaged?



I aint no cluch spec guru but this sounds like a "rub salt in the wound" job...chortle!!




Cheers chaps
Click to expand...

Yes, that' what I meant. And as for the clutch, I just meant that it was unfortunate that he hadn't posted this a nmber of weeks ago. It would have saved him a lot of hassle!

Ed said:
Stock maf (which is of no concern when using e-manage with boost sensor) and 700cc injectors. Most get around 300 on that setup with the RNN14 engines. Even if its r/r was a bit entuastic take it as 300 bhp its still good.

Ed
Click to expand...

Ah, got ya!
 
Cool, thanks for the advice Dave.

However, could the slippage be due to something else rather than the clutch itself, i.e. fitting

Do you think that if i buy and fit the JGY clutch it'll just stop slipping? Or could it be due to it being bolted to the Pulsar lump?

Just asking before i spend the money :)
 
No, the Primera GT clutch can take about 200 HP, and no more.

You've put a GTiR engine in the car with 220 minimum, and this is the reason the clutch is not bitting.

I would get another clutch anyways, and when you have it out, get the flywheel skimmed for a good surface!

Trust me it is the clutch!
 
okey dokey, sounds like a plan.

Then i'm sure the stress will move on to the drive shafts and modified bearings :) doh!!
 

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