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Porks bike carbs and boost project

Hahah, yes!!!!!!


One last hurdle before that.....where to mount this bloody pump! Only space left is the battery tray which means moving the battery


I'm mega chuffed tho now it runs, still sounds bit rough!


Thanks to everyone who's helped, greatly appreciated!!! :D
 
Mounted pump today, temporarily for now

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359129856.253292.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359129901.168414.jpg
 
Pump all wired up, plumbed in, managed to feed return into dipstick hole too :)

Had a quick test earlier, pump works a treat, but engine is only running on 3 cylinders.

Looking at engine from front off the car, it's the cylinder on the left, (1 or 4 :D )

Then started lashing it down so couldn't find out why.

Can someone chuck ideas for me to look at when the heavens have stopped pissing down
 
Ok, il check that tomorrow, only had it idling for a while, and it sounded rough, checked the primaries and that runner was cold, pulled the lead out and no change in engine tone............then started raining so couldn't investigate further
 
Ok, il check that tomorrow, only had it idling for a while, and it sounded rough, checked the primaries and that runner was cold, pulled the lead out and no change in engine tone............then started raining so couldn't investigate further
While you had ht lead off did you check for a spark at that lead?
 
Also forgot to mention, boost/vacuum gauge is very erratic! Unless kept at higher revs. I guess that's down to the dead cylinder?
 
All new plugs/leads, I checked spark by putting plug in lead and turning engine over whilst plug was on metal. Saw spark ok.
 
Figured it out :D

Dodgy lead, was fine when I took plug out, would get spark off bare metal ok.

Brand new too. I've had carbs taken to bits, compression tested it, changed all plugs about, and then accidentally come across the answer.

Here's a video of it running.

What does the needle jumping on boost/vac gauge mean!?!
It settles down again onced revved, then goes mental


 
the boost gauges are usually dampered neil (very fine hole inside) you might need a receiver of some sort if you have 4 vacuum pipes into 1 ?
 
the boost gauges are usually dampered neil (very fine hole inside) you might need a receiver of some sort if you have 4 vacuum pipes into 1 ?

I'm only using 6mm piping along between the vac take offs, then onto brakes, do you reckon if Increased the size of pipe it will be better?
 
I'm only using 6mm piping along between the vac take offs, then onto brakes, do you reckon if Increased the size of pipe it will be better?
you may need a vacuum tank from a diesel neil, or try a restictor or 2 in the piping
 
When using 4 runners connected together you need to dampen the pulses. I used a small valve for a for a fish tank air line (happend to be 6mm) and I put it in line and slowly closed it untill it read a constant value.

Like this one

Free-shopping-10Pcs-clear-straight-connectors-Blue-Plastic-font-b-Air-b-font-font-b-Control.jpg_250x250.jpg
 
When using 4 runners connected together you need to dampen the pulses. I used a small valve for a for a fish tank air line (happend to be 6mm) and I put it in line and slowly closed it untill it read a constant value.

Like this one

Free-shopping-10Pcs-clear-straight-connectors-Blue-Plastic-font-b-Air-b-font-font-b-Control.jpg_250x250.jpg


Hmmm, may ave to construct something like that
 
The other people have used is a fuel filter with the element removed which then acts as a small reservoir and dampens the pulses.

Like this


fuel-filter.jpg


Both work well from what I've read
 
Been for first spin in car today

Drives fine, jus losses power as the turbo comes on..

Boost gauge is at 0,

I've done nothing to ignition timing yet, is that the problem

Is it a fueling issue I've messed up?

Aarrrrgghhhh
 
any exh mani leaks mate ?


Not that I can tell, possilby a couple of pin hole ones (I have made it after all!)

I haven't hooked up rev counter yet, so no idea of revs, but defiantly not at redline, and the power jus stops and car sort of splutters a bit.

Could it be BOV opening to early?

If FPR isn't working right and fuel is getting blown back out of carbs, would the power fade like ths?
 
Not that I can tell, possilby a couple of pin hole ones (I have made it after all!)

I haven't hooked up rev counter yet, so no idea of revs, but defiantly not at redline, and the power jus stops and car sort of splutters a bit.

Could it be BOV opening to early?

If FPR isn't working right and fuel is getting blown back out of carbs, would the power fade like ths?
the bov should only open when you lift eh neil (run without it if you want) and expect a right mission getting the carbs to fuel properly under boost eh :)
 
the bov should only open when you lift eh neil (run without it if you want) and expect a right mission getting the carbs to fuel properly under boost eh :)


Haha, yep, and so it begins :D

Never drove turbo car before, was so excited waiting for boost, anti climax to say the least :(
 
Ok, will do, but the pipe that goes to regulator comes from the manifold?
yes all your vacuum pipes go post throttleplate,s/butterfly,s eh mate :) you will have some positive pressure upstream of them at times when there is no actual boost eh
 
yes all your vacuum pipes go post throttleplate,s/butterfly,s eh mate :) you will have some positive pressure upstream of them at times when there is no actual boost eh


Cheers mate :)

Got a few small manifolds at work to knock something up for all vacuum lines
 
sounds like the exact same problem i had although your running bike carbs and i was running the standard carb. my intake boost pipe was completetly sealed and there was no boost what so ever. i know my fueling was probably a big factor but there should of been at least a bit of boost there but nothing lol. all i got was a lot of woosh tish.... but no power. have you checked a few of the bike forums neil? ive seen loads of boosted bikes running carbs but im fairly sure they seal the carbs in a box.
 
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