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Porks bike carbs and boost project

Looks tidy Neil :)
Keeps that engine bay freed up

Better than spaghetti junction inthe engine bay :/
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Cheers, as long as it's safe :)
Never had an issue personally :) though I double clipped my high pressure hoses to be extra safe :) stainless doesn't compress well so 8mm to a 6mm pipe is a no go

Others were aeroquip gear... but I can't afford that this time round :p
 
I think its personal preference.
personally I'd keep everything out side of the car. I had fuel fire a while back ( over flowing carb and a back fire) and the speed at which it engulfed the engine bay was scary and that was low flow/pressure.

Maybe build a enclosure, so that if the worst ever happened it would be contained to a small area.?
 
most rally cars iirc (and my stockcars) had to fit the pipes on the inside (scrutineer insistence) but it would,nt pass type approval for road cars i guess ?
 
From the old msa blue book, ok your not taking part in motorsport but its a good guide to build a safe car...

Passenger Compartment
  • Must have a bulkhead between fuel tank/filler and passenger compartment, this must prevent the passage of flame or liquid. If the fuel tank forms the bulkhead, an additional bulkhead is required, the fuel tank may require additional protection. (i.e. if the fuel tank is in the boot, it must be separated from the passengers. If it is under the floor, it must be protected from damage.)
  • Interior fuel lines must be braided
  • If the fuel filler is in an enclosed location (e.g. in boot) it must have external drainage.
I'm sure it also says that compression fittings should be used rather than jubilee clips and any internal lines should be one piece with no joins.
 
Thanks :)

The hose iv got is braided, and there's only 1 foot off high pressure flexible braided hose before it's plumbed into the original k10 solid pipes
 
Got coil plug things and cam sensor plate

Thanks frank :)

Also some more boost pipe bits, 63-40 reducer T for inlet on turbo that will be fed from mini bypass valve

More parts arriving tomorow to finish of fueling.
Then it's jus ecu.



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Ahh, lol misread, thought you were on about retro rides gathering

Yeah, definitely! :)
gunna have to I guess, mapping and stuff
 
this is the little stump for the 720deg sequential signal neil :) 11mm standoff so m6 capscrew and loctite maybe ?
and some greased rag or a magnet to catch the swarf eh :)

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Would of preferred the megasquirt, but the ready built was to expensive, and don't have time/skill/patience to build my own
 
Eerrm, silly question, but what type are my injectors? Need the plugs for them.....so are they ev1.....6.....14? Lol
 
Eerrm, silly question, but what type are my injectors? Need the plugs for them.....so are they ev1.....6.....14? Lol
the are various slightly different connectors/plugs neil, you have to get the manufacturers plug (audi/nissan/seat or whatever) even tho the injectors are made by bosch
 
here are the k11 topfeed and sidefeed types mate, i had to file 1 of the pips off and turn the connector 180 deg, audi ones are different again

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That is pre built, didn't fancy making all that myself :D

£349 delivered, not too bad considering that's what the megasquirt woulda cost unassembled.

Jus waiting on plugs then I can start the wiring up
 
Jus so I've got this right.....(car electrics confusing me)

The live wire is linked between all injectors, and it's the ecu that switches the grounds?

No wiring diagram, jus waiting for replies from supplier
 
With the megasquirt they separate the injectors into 2 pairs (banks) 1&3 and 2&4 with their own 5 amp supplies. I think the idea being that if for some reason a fuse blows it will only affect half the cylinders.

The engine should run on 2 cylinders, mine could run 1 cylinder.
 
So here's my plan, the ecu has individual coil drivers, but will be running paired up, same as the injectors..... For now,

Feel free to pick holes

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