PollyMobiles Rebuild

[pollyp]

recently noticed that the printers heated bed was slightly twisted at the far end where it's only supported by 1 of the 3 mounts, making it difficult to ensure a flat platform across the whole bed.
decided to drill two new holes so it can be adjusted at 4 corner points.
but there's no existing schematics about the makibox heated bed circuit layout hidden under the steel plate,
I'm just hoping all the circuit routes within the mounting holes and I could dril around the outside.

drilled two new holes in the bed & moving frame

applied an insulator under the bed to help reduce heat up time

OK reconnected it all up, power on and erm nothing, controller is blank and power adapter light is blinking, Oh ohh this ain't good.
is it a short? I'm screwed if the beds broken.

unplugged the heated bed and the rest of the XYZ motors are working again, phew I didn't blow the controller, good thing it has some shorting protection.

Ah pants, the heater circuit must've gone under where I've drilled and shorted out :/

Right, time to split the stainless plate off the PCB heater board. it was tricky with alot of razor blades but eventually separated the high temp adhesive tape without damaging / bending the board much

and yeah I drilled straight through the circuit

so here's the circuit layout

red = 12v feed towards center
blue = ground feed
green box = glass bed

gonna have to reroute the circuit to bypass the conflicting new screw holes and disable part of the heater element outside the glass bed to prevent it overheating.
so gonna reconnect the areas marked in yellow

exposed the copper tracks

connected some areas with conductive paint

connected this crucial 12v feed overhead the ground feed by soldering afew strands of copper wire

the flat areas under the glass bed connected with conductive paint. I also grinded any remaining copper tracks away from the screw holes so it doesn't short out through the metal chassis

removed copper backing away from the screw holes underneath

fibre washers insulating between the screws and PCB

another issue is the bed. I could either:
- bond the stainless plate back onto the PCB heater (temporarily with some double sided high temp tape or permanently with epoxy thermal paste) to spread the heat and able to bend the metal flat then clamp the glass on top, but heater still has to slowly heatup both the steel & glass bed.
- or simply clamp the already flat glass onto the PCB heater for fast heatup but air gaps may affect heat distribution.

decided it's easier & better to just clamp the glass on top.
finally found 4 tiny binder clips to secure the bed from the corners.

the heated bed finally works and works really well.
I'm able to adjust all 4 corners completely even flat (there are some gaps between the flat glass & the PCB cos the PCB has bent slightly after I pryed it off the stainless plate but it's a minor issue) and by clamping the glass directly onto the PCB heater, the heatup has reduced from 7min down to just 4min

happy with the improvement.

 

[solarice]

redesigned for printing flat against the bed. removed the rounded edge from the outside

View attachment 46838

All i saw at first was a playstation memory card

 

[pollyp]

All i saw at first was a playstation memory card

hehe I never realised that till u mentioned it

 

[infinity]

You could use non conductive thermal paste between the glass and element or some kind of teflon laminate to distribute heat

 

[pollyp]

thermal paste would be very messy & wasteful cos every time I renew the ABS slurry coating on the glass between prints, I'd have to remove the glass, wipe the paste off, scrape the old slurry off under a warm tap, then reapply another measure of paste.

I was thinking more towards a thick non-adhesive thermal pad to conduct over very uneven surfaces.

maplin sells 5mm thick thermal pads, conducts 2W-per-mK but they're only 30x60mm, £8 each and there's only 2 in stock. whereas I'd need upto 11 packs to fill the 150x130mm bed.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/akasa-5mm-thermal-gap-filler-a00nn

the other nearest local supplier of thermal pad was RS components.
they sell 150x150x2mm sheets and conducts 2W/mK at £34
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-gap-pads/7074746/

they also sell a more conductive 6W/mK sheet for £70
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-gap-pads/7074770/

abit expensive but meh here's the thermal gel pad #7074770

trimmed to fit the bed

the previous foamy insulator didn't work cos it simply melted at high temp, so lets try some corragated cardboard

the thermal pad has a tacky plastercine feel/smell to it

clamped it down with small clips but notice how it only clamps within a small area, so I had to apply alot of clamps all around but still the heater PCB is so warped that the middle section is hardly conducting.

cos the pad is tacky, it's difficult to remove the glass for cleaning the ABS slurry off so it'd have to stay in place without the coating.
tried printing on bare glass at high temps and it simply doesn't work without the slurry.

at high temps the double sided tape also melts so it can't hold the cardboard insulator

I'd have to place a more permanant steel plate on top of the sticky thermal pad, then the coated glass on top and we're back to the old setup but with a thick pad sandwich.
with the steel & glass bed, heatup time has again rised back up to 7min
tbh this thermal pad doesn't offer any better heat distribution nor any benefits so twas a waste of £70

so now I'll clamp the cardboard insulator to the PCB

and clamp the glass straight back on the PCB for a fast 4min heatup

another issue then came when the controller stopped powering up. seems the power connector is fused on

erm yup it's burnt out abit :/

hard wired the power plug straight into the PCB and now it's up & running

 

[infinity]

Might wanna put a fuse on that line looks like its pulling way too much, on aliexpress you can get thermalpads dunno about sizes but cheap, slow shipping though

 

[pollyp]

Might wanna put a fuse on that line looks like its pulling way too much, on aliexpress you can get thermalpads dunno about sizes but cheap, slow shipping though

looks like it overheated due to high resistance from poor pin contact with that much wattage.
I suspect the causes could be:
arcing between terminal pins from connecting/disconnect plug whilst still live with 12v may have oxidised the contacts,
repeated plug/unplugging may have loosened all the female terminal pins,
frequent unplugging of connector over past few months of rebuilding the printer.

now that it's hard wired straight between the adapter plug & PCB, there's no signs of overload and the 4 wires are cool.

as I found out, there's no point in the thermal pads here cos it doesn't fully contact the bendy PCB heater board and gave zero benefits.
the glass clamped on top of heater is working nicely, fast heatup, prints are sticking fine and easy to service.

if I was to further upgrade the bed, I'd be getting those proper flexible red heater pads that bonds under a metal/glass plate, but would need to find the required wattage for this controller board.

 

[pollyp]

so yesterday I was giving me m8s a lift home from pub, I press remote but always takes a sec to unlock.
meanwhile one of em pulls the rear handle prematurely and obviously doesn't unlock.
I got in, they try pulling again but couldn't open it. I thought the lock had jammed so they got in the other door.

back at home found they'd snapped me handle off (owes me more drinks)
FFS

could goto local scrappies but the nearest good one with micra is 10miles, £3 fuel plus they'd prob charge £5 for the handle plus 1hr of my time doing all that.
instead I just ordered a new one of ebay £6 delivered next week.

meanwhile I could've removed the handle to either glue back or model/3D print a copy but that's all PITA and will be fragile, costly and time consuming.
instead, as it was a clean snap I just superglued it back on for the time being and it works brill

if only they were made in metal and levers the rod from the middle rather than from the side of the handle.

 

[MicraPRO]

Super glue is holding alot of my car together also!

 

[pollyp]

Following a sudden unexpected passing away of a good friend recently (may he r.i.p), I decided to print afew star wars models for adding onto a wreath as respect cos he was a massive fan.

printing vaders head

gradually carefully picking the support material off the intricate surface

all support structure removed to reveal a detailed face

printing two halfs of the death star

supports removed

filled in a faulty gap

printing yoda

removed supports off the very delicate model

printing the falcon

unvealing the supports bit by bit

all 4 models successfully printed

acetone vapour smoothing

finished printing & smoothing of the star wars models

 

[McMicra]

I want one of those printers lol

 

[pollyp]

I haven't serviced the catchcan for awhile now over the winter. just half full but geez just look at this thick gunk, this is what would've been in our engines.

looking inside the hoses and oh myy, it's clogged full of gunk, I could'nt blow through it.
probably another reason why it ain't fitted to everyday cars is the manufacturers don't think most ppl are willing to frequently service/clear out/dispose of all this thick gunk every month. easier to simply keep the vapours warm and burn it away asap

squeezed the gunk out the hoses and it's like toothpaste thick, this definately ain't gonna let the PCV/catchcan system work.

the plumbing that's within the engine bay area where it's alot warmer stays clear, has just a light coating of oil.
the thick gunk is only near the front area where the cold airstream blows at the catchcan & hoses, causing all the vapours to condense / build up along the chilled plumbing until it eventually clogges up.

if black oil sludge is like the engines arterial cholesterol, this thick condensed oil vapour is equivelent to a coughy phlegm

the engine cover - inlet catchcan again doesn't have any build up cos cool fresh air flows through it most of the time during high vac

cleaned all this engine phlegm out and it appears working fine again.

 

[pollyp]

received the new handle

painted. lots of base coat orange peel compared to the other handles prob due to the cold but it'll do

removed cracked old one

and installed

was driving around town and it's more noticeable nowadays that she always smokes oil when cold and only driven around normally at short distances, oil being sucked into bores past the poor rings.
well this definately ain't ideal for a daily car.
went out again to blast her, clear those pipes, park by motorway and rev the nuts off her looking for anymore smoke.
now once she's been pushed and all heated up, she doesn't smoke as much.

basically I guess these forged racing pistons are only meant to be thrashed hot to keep em hot n clearances upto spec but when cooler and driving normally she's way too slack and leak / burn oil.

 

[pollyp]

the rear extended studs stick out too far & rust, so thought I'd clean em before aligning wheels soon

cut & retap them shorter

sitting flush

 

[pollyp]

time to repatch this leaking turbo return fitting that was covered in ChemMetal last year

halfords didn't have JB weld in store. araldite says oil resistant but dunno if that alalso meant for patch j jobs and only withstands 80degC. not sure if the black instant gasket sealant can hold up against the surface oil leak.
thought I'd try this super steel epoxy resin which said it can work on cracked oil sump

the old ChemMetal can be chipped clean off so it barely bonds onto the steel and is too stiff & brittle

got as much of it off, roughen with emery cloth and degreased with carb cleaner

applied the epoxy. while ChemMetal is a very viscous bodyfiller that can be shaped and hardens quickly, this epoxy is abit more runny goopy so can get deeper into cavities and smooth itself

lets see if it'll work once it soon cures

 

[h701micra]

Hopefully so

 

[pollyp]

the epoxy has now cured into a firm flexible and not rock hard brittle seal

relubed the clutch cable

now this is odd that I've never seen before. the catchcan only collected mostly clear water vapour instead of milky oil vapour.
blowed through the crankcase-catchcan hose and once again partially blocked with water and goop.
medically I could say that kasandra has a chest infection lol

ok so I guess the hose plumbing that goes behind & around the front of the rad is cooling / condensing the vapours prematurely.
so I rerouted a shorten length to flow within the warm engine bay and then quickly to & from the catchcan in the cool airstream so it doesn't block the pipe. recheck it few days later

 

[pollyp]

after afew miles, the epoxy sealed sump fitting appears nice n dry

was chatting to andy and he suggested wrapping the hose with Alu tape to help further insulate em from too much cold so I tried that

abit more blingy now see how it does for a further few miles

 

[MaxK11C]

Good to see some updates Paul.

 

[pollyp]

thx max

 

[Huggy444]

Won't ally tape cool it down more? Yes it'll insulate it from the cold, but it will also reflect away the exhaust heat?

 

[pollyp]

Won't ally tape cool it down more? Yes it'll insulate it from the cold, but it will also reflect away the exhaust heat?

dunno, tis why I'm trying it out.
aye I think it'll reflect infra-red but still allow cool air blowing over it to conduct heat away since it's so thin. was gonna use that thin foam silver backing liner but it'd be too thick and didn't have enough.
the hose ain't exposed to much exhaust heat imo, the hottest bit would be warm air behind the rad area.
I think the shorter plumbing from crankcase has helped cos inside the hose has stayed clear.

 

[Huggy444]

Aye I suppose
Guess it's all just research

 

[pollyp]

Aye I suppose
Guess it's all just research

yup theorise, plan, try it, evaluate test, report & log result, repeat

 

[h701micra]

Won't ally tape cool it down more? Yes it'll insulate it from the cold, but it will also reflect away the exhaust heat?

Heat's a constant from the crank breather
Giving it another layer of insulation helps retain it

It's theoretical as I've no hard evidence other than it worked for me although not my intention at the time

 

[Love_Whiskey]

Good reading, like the wrapped breather hoses


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[skymera]

Very pleased to see this still going

 

[pollyp]

Integrating action camera into helmet

For the past 2 weeks I've been trying to redesign my spare Drift X170 camera into separate parts to fit inside my trackday helmet to give a better POV and not have this big bright thing stuck to the side.

Disassembled, analysed & modelled every detailed part

Camera Sensor

First design of the camera case had the cable pointing back but this fouled the helmet and the method of joining the casing needed work

The final design moved the cable out sideways, mic was also in the case and the case joined via twist lock.

 

[pollyp]

Circuit Case

Case 1-3
the first design was simply a duplicate of the original layout with a hole for the camera cable but it was far too bulky

Case 4-5
moved the batteries along the side to make it slimmer and rounded the corners, but the printer didn't like overhanging surfaces that curve upwards

Case 6
made the ends square which printed better but by having the inner 4 small screws clamping both the circuit board & case, the outer edge of the unsupported case had big gaps sp the sliding battery lid can't work

Case 7-8
moved the batteries along the front with a top sliding battery lid but it was too long and the case split line was too flimsy

Case 10
moved the batteries across the topside to keep it compact and have the case split sideways down the middle, but the complicated split line and tall thin walls had issues printing

Case 11-13
resorted back to the basic original layout but made the battery housing part of the case and had a sliding battery lid, but the sprung batteries warped the lid

Case 14
moved battery back to the sides for compactness and made a sliding lid at the bottom to keep the case around the battery stiff but the long opening had weakened the wall structure

Case 16
kept it simple and just had a sliding top lid but the sliding lip was too weak and changing batteries would be tricky

Case 17
the breakthrough was to make the battery compartment & circuit casing separately. the circuit simply slides into the one-piece case, battery compartment screwed onto the end and the battery cap would twist lock. this worked but the twist lock fingers need reinforcing

Case 18
tried increasing more interlocking fingers but twas too small for the printer

Case 19
this final design has just 3 strong twist locking fingers in the battery cap and smooth rounded edges

 

[pollyp]

Wiring

found an old parallel port printer cable that had over 20 wires for the camera sensor but was too stiff, so cut the rubber cover off

and put in a braided sleeve to allow the wires to bend & slide freely

Assembly

tediously soldered all 20+ tiny terminals

camera unit assembled

joining the loom to the connector plug with yet another 20+ tiny solder, u can imagine that I really hated soldering now

carefully slid the circuit into the case

powered it up and ah damn the screen flickers but fails to boot up, think a wirings wrong somewhere, dammit

took apart to diagnose. tried the camera loom on another working board and the video is fuzzy so I guess I've either mis-wired the loom or it's too long
FFS well that was all a wasted effort.

time to fit the cameras back onto the car for blyton next week so made these blanking ends to keep dirt out

 

[pollyp]

Redesign Glove Box Lock

the prev sprung loaded latch mechanism was jamming up again so lets redesign a simpler twist lock

removed & measured the original mounting points

Lock design #4

here I was trying this complicated fancy spiral ramp type flute to help turn the knob open if it was misaligned and the glovebox was simply pushed shut

printed & smoothed

interlocks like this

fitted the mount

the handle secured through the hole with a pin through it

but soon realised the glovebox actually swings open at an odd offset angle and the latch fingers seemed too flimsy

Lock design #6

should always tell myself k.i.s.s
rather than worry bout this self-retracting latch, just make it a simple t-lock.

turn knob 90deg to release. a split disc is screwed on to keep handle retained

printed & smoothed

fitted mount

and the handle secured. works nice now

 

[pollyp]

fitted all the onboard cameras back on today after the winter break and went for a drive to check the settings right and the cars fine.
the cabin camera's abit over-exposed so will turn it down next time. the rear view camera failed to record.
on cold starts and when left idling over 1min she smokes heavily so who knows when this engines gonna finally let go.



with the car warmed up, I began checking the wheel alignments

the rear axle was pointing slightly left so corrected it. front wheels still pointing straight with zero toe and 1.8deg/2.0deg left/right camber.
recheck everything again tomorrow

 

[pollyp]

checking outside footage of recent cold starts it seems that the exhaust cold cranks clear, 20-30sec later it begins to emit steam but then 1min later she begins to emit blue smoke





the rear view camera once again shutting off for some reason mid-rec, think it's cos I left some old batteries in it.

steering now heading really straight afew realignment

 

[pollyp]

tday fitted the trackday 595rsr tyres so I arrive at blyton in the rain ready to go.

considering it's gonna rain heavy all day, the rsr are getting abit thin approx 2.5 - 4mm (never tried these in rain and prob risk of aquaplaning/spin but they're a good grippy compound) whereas the t1r are 6.5 - 7.5mm but limited amount of grip/durability.
logic says try out the rsr in wet to find out the facts as R&D and if it's too slippery, then I'll switch back to t1r.
I put the deeper tread rsr at the front.

brake pads still plenty thick.

fixed the rear view & pedal cam power issue and tested this final camera config

 

[SuperUno]

Unless there is a LOT of standing water, then performance in the wet is all down to the compound of the rubber and not the tread. Tread helps the rubber move and thus warm up the rubber. At Brands this year, I ran full rally slicks i.e. 17% tread in the wet and reasonable amounts of standing water and had no issue as the compound was very soft (X22) so soft when cold you can move the rubber with your thumb...

Library image for reference

 

[Huggy444]

I agree - at the trackday today I was running Road legal semi slicks, however there was just no grip and no heat.

Last rally at Blyton was slightly drier admittedly, however I ran soft tarmac rally slicks (like the above pic) and had a shed load more grip than today

Hope you had a good day Paul, didn't really get time to chat much. Finally sorted my brakes, gone back to standard callipers etc

 

[pollyp]

after tdays completely rivered down blyton track, I totally agree with matt n alex. I thought the worn down semi was gonna slide all over when cold or monsooned but actually on the non-standing wet bits I was pleasantly surprised at how grippy these RSR are even in the heavy rain )

as usual I'm so tired so will report soon after rest.
soz I was so busy alex, andy, edward. I always have so much stuff to do/check rushing around, looking afew me two m8s who also told me in morning he needed to get back by 6 so had so much of my r&d and driving to cram into a shortened day before jetting off at 2pm.

that gazebo was soo essential for storage stuff tday
if only I had more time to take alex & ed around.

 

[Huggy444]

Aye good day none the less, catch you next time

 

[h701micra]

You'll just find its takes slightly longer to get the heat in to the tyres
Thankfully the standing water on circuit eventually got splashed off for the majority which stopped the cooling of tyres so much
It only added approx 1-2 laps extra for warming to usual runs, hence my question Paul as i got to see the variety in performance between the 3 vehicles such big differences. Baptism of fire for Edward but he did well and held his own

Didn't have a massive impact on anyone's abilities. Slightly less slip angle tolerances and braking capability as to be expected but all in all still a good days drive.

And for those wondering, my drive home was much less eventful thankfully

 

[Huggy444]

Just remembered I spun in exactly the same place as Paul did last time we were both out - cursed micra corner! Hehe

 

[pollyp]

You'll just find its takes slightly longer to get the heat in to the tyres
Thankfully the standing water on circuit eventually got splashed off for the majority which stopped the cooling of tyres so much
It only added approx 1-2 laps extra for warming to usual runs, hence my question Paul as i got to see the variety in performance between the 3 vehicles such big differences. Baptism of fire for Edward but he did well and held his own

Didn't have a massive impact on anyone's abilities. Slightly less slip angle tolerances and braking capability as to be expected but all in all still a good days drive.

And for those wondering, my drive home was much less eventful thankfully

thx for the valuable evaluation between the cars.

if only we could have like a dedicated micra try-out trackday were we each get to ride in every car (half the group drive their own cars, the other half get to ride along in each car, then swap around) to get an overall feel of the differences, hopefully with minimum running issues.

yeah it did seem to take me 2-3 laps before the tyres were peak warm and stopped locking as much.
what was up with ed's? he still looked quick in the corners.
was definate a fun day even with some issues, which I just found this morning to be a boost pipe after the IC that's popped loose (hence I had minimal boost & power on the way home), easy fix.

 

[pollyp]

Just remembered I spun in exactly the same place as Paul did last time we were both out - cursed micra corner! Hehe

that high speed port froid is a very tricky transitioning corner that catches out alot of drivers if mistreated, including me
saw this red mx5 spin there right ahead of me.
but strangely for me, kasandra was very stable through ports froid in the wet, no oversteer but I still couldn't trust her 100% to go WOT in 4th there.

actually aload of mx5 I was closing up on soon spun (their driving style was kinda irratic oversteery & inconsistant, well there was alot of novices that day tbh), must've been the psychological pressure from watching me closely behind them

 

[Huggy444]

That's exactly it, whenever you're catching someone they start to spend more time looking backwards instead of forwards! Tis why we tailgate people when rallying, try and force them to cock up and let us pass haha

Yeah I just had slight understeer coming out the corner so backed off the throttle, obviously just backed off to much!

 

[pollyp]

That's exactly it, whenever you're catching someone they start to spend more time looking backwards instead of forwards! Tis why we tailgate people when rallying, try and force them to cock up and let us pass haha

Yeah I just had slight understeer coming out the corner so backed off the throttle, obviously just backed off to much!

it's a well know racing tactic to push the person ahead into a mistake.
it's exactly similar to what you find on the public roads with c*ck drivers in audi/beemer/white van man riding up ur butt with full beams in attempt to make u get out the way.
that's why I have no rear mirror cos it makes me nervous. hence I only purely focus on whats ahead and just use side mirrors when needed and I stay relaxed.

what I learnt from the very wet conditions is to be very smooth, progressive, and abit less braking & steering force than in dry due to limited amount of adhesion.
if I stamp on the brakes it locks easy. I had to smoothly slowly increase the braking force till it "just" begins to slip, whilst simultaneously lift off smoothly.
if I just stamp WOT to high rpm peak torque it just wheelspins / power understeer. I had to gradually feed the throttle and short shift.
if I steer too fast it just understeers. I had to treat her tenderly, smoothly, give her time to adjust to the transitioning corners like port froid and she behaves.

I'm gonna try avoid the naughty metaphors comparing driving styles when wet to how to treat women or a dangerous dog. and fail

 

[Love_Whiskey]

I had so much fun, good to meet Alex and nice to see Andy and Paul again. Haven't stopped being excited yet.

Really enjoyed it for my first time on track and I'll do one again. Car ran flawlessly (makes me proud) and tyres were better than expected.

Learnt a lot about driving and how the car handles, and was humbled by what I did learn. Was very nervous at first but hugely thankful to Andy and Alex for the moral support they offered riding out with me


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[pollyp]

I had so much fun, good to meet Alex and nice to see Andy and Paul again. Haven't stopped being excited yet.

Really enjoyed it for my first time on track and I'll do one again. Car ran flawlessly (makes me proud) and tyres were better than expected.

Learnt a lot about driving and how the car handles, and was humbled by what I did learn. Was very nervous at first but hugely thankful to Andy and Alex for the moral support they offered riding out with me


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my cousin said once you get the trackday bug, ur hooked like a drug

that was ur first time? I'm impressed, u did really well in the challenging condition.
you learn ton's of valuable info about your car near the limit on a controlled track, can make you safer driver on the road.

 

[h701micra]

thx for the valuable evaluation between the cars.

if only we could have like a dedicated micra try-out trackday were we each get to ride in every car (half the group drive their own cars, the other half get to ride along in each car, then swap around) to get an overall feel of the differences, hopefully with minimum running issues.

yeah it did seem to take me 2-3 laps before the tyres were peak warm and stopped locking as much.
what was up with ed's? he still looked quick in the corners.
was definate a fun day even with some issues, which I just found this morning to be a boost pipe after the IC that's popped loose (hence I had minimal boost & power on the way home), easy fix.

You certainly notice the difference from a handling aspect all coming from the same chassis, Alex's being much tighter because of that roll cage and the support of the seats etc.
Yours Paul has the balance and it becomes obvious to those who know the signs of spotting a balanced and developed car
Ed's was fine, just his first time out. He did superbly. The corner he believed he favoured least turned out to be his strongest, much comfier car due to the seats I suspect.
Definitely a good experience for myself to see that variation. I msy be biased, but I do prefer the ride of Eds coilovers to thr BCs

Glad its a simple fix we said it would be something daft

 

[Huggy444]

Eds car was very very stiff, sod all body roll!
From previous rides with Paul I will say your car is very predictable and tight handling, a very nice setup can tell you've spent a while getting it properly corner weighted and dialled in, much better than mine
Mines twitchy, fast in the right conditions but yesterday was a real handful

 

[pollyp]

You certainly notice the difference from a handling aspect all coming from the same chassis, Alex's being much tighter because of that roll cage and the support of the seats etc.
Yours Paul has the balance and it becomes obvious to those who know the signs of spotting a balanced and developed car
Ed's was fine, just his first time out. He did superbly. The corner he believed he favoured least turned out to be his strongest, much comfier car due to the seats I suspect.
Definitely a good experience for myself to see that variation. I msy be biased, but I do prefer the ride of Eds coilovers to thr BCs

Glad its a simple fix we said it would be something daft

nice insight, ur so lucky to get to sit in all the cars
yeah mine could do with a rigid seat & harness but is compromised by practicality.

I know, tis a silly issue but good to know it's very minor and easy to fix. gonna fit a longer elbow joint so it's not as easy for the pipe to wiggle off from the engine movement.

 

[pollyp]

Eds car was very very stiff, sod all body roll!
From previous rides with Paul I will say your car is very predictable and tight handling, a very nice setup can tell you've spent a while getting it properly corner weighted and dialled in, much better than mine
Mines twitchy, fast in the right conditions but yesterday was a real handful

yup being consistant and confident with finesse between man & machine helps keep you safe & fast.