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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
I'd like to know how people without a competition vehicle manage to get insurance with REIS. They have proved to be one of the most unreliable scetchy insurers who contunially change the goal posts as far as I'm concerned.
Tried to insure the SuperS with them a few years back, got a very good quote from them but when it came down to it they changed their tune and told me they couldn't cover the car unless it was a full competition vehicle with MSA papers.
They wouldn't even offer cover under a modified policy and told me they don't cover modified cars, only competition vehicles despite their website clearly stating to the contrary.
It would be good to make a lost of those with cover and what their spec is, as they are so far way off base with their story...
Have you tried Chris Knott insurance? Might be worth a call 08009172274. They do some specialist scheme and some owners club discounts schemes...
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Love_Whiskey
Super S Restorer
On the FaceBook there's a guy who every so often advertises a "Prestige Keep Moving" scheme, whatever that is. They accept modified cars, up to a point I presume.
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pollyp
Club Member
not thought bout buying & insuring other budget jap cars. always been too bias towards the k11 but yeah they're becoming more ££ to run, perhaps time to venture into the unknown, preferably a reliable jap.
also consider upfront cost, insurance, tax.
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pollyp
Club Member
this is just a road car with a very long mod list, so nowhere near a competition car.
trying to insure a highly modded car with another stock car is gonna be difficult or unrealistic. most multi-car schemes are prob only for stock low-risk cars.
no job yet, just forcasting that when I get a new job away from home, I'd need to have a normal car, but keeping kasandra running is an obsticle.
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pollyp
Club Member
forgot bout chris knott, give em a ring too
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pollyp
Club Member
my old alarm remote casing was getting abit worn & dinged.
so design a new one, integrate two buttons into the upper clam shell
printed the two clam shells
but the hollow underside where the printer "bridges" the top is rather rough & unrefined
the gap between buttons is too close & catches itself
and the thin clam shell lip edge doesn't align accurately
tweaked & refined the overhanging "bridge" printing settings till it's straight, consistant over long distance and doesn't sag much.
upper # is bridging extrusion ratio, lower # is speed.
created a hole over the buttons so my fingers would press em directly. recessed it so it doesn't get pushed in my pockets
printed as one-piece so no need to align & screw clam shells together
exposed buttons but soon found the holes too narrow and buttons too far away so my thumb couldn't reach
circuit board slots in the groove sides
insert battery
and the battery cap simply tolerance fitted. grooved texture of the 3d print actually keeps it retained
rather than thin exposed button holes, I tried to feature a thin flexible 1 layer thick topside where I can depress the button
this worked but 1 layer was too fragile/brittle
so refined with 2 layers thick
and it's now more robust and simpler
so design a new one, integrate two buttons into the upper clam shell
printed the two clam shells
but the hollow underside where the printer "bridges" the top is rather rough & unrefined
the gap between buttons is too close & catches itself
and the thin clam shell lip edge doesn't align accurately
tweaked & refined the overhanging "bridge" printing settings till it's straight, consistant over long distance and doesn't sag much.
upper # is bridging extrusion ratio, lower # is speed.
created a hole over the buttons so my fingers would press em directly. recessed it so it doesn't get pushed in my pockets
printed as one-piece so no need to align & screw clam shells together
exposed buttons but soon found the holes too narrow and buttons too far away so my thumb couldn't reach
circuit board slots in the groove sides
insert battery
and the battery cap simply tolerance fitted. grooved texture of the 3d print actually keeps it retained
rather than thin exposed button holes, I tried to feature a thin flexible 1 layer thick topside where I can depress the button
this worked but 1 layer was too fragile/brittle
so refined with 2 layers thick
and it's now more robust and simpler
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pollyp
Club Member
for xmas I asked sista to get me an Arduino Due microcontroller to play with 
could work towards a datalogger or central heating controller or tyre temp logger etc
engine compression had peaked after the long trip to Nurburgring and now cly1-2 is dropping
LSD preload is steady
could work towards a datalogger or central heating controller or tyre temp logger etc
engine compression had peaked after the long trip to Nurburgring and now cly1-2 is dropping
LSD preload is steady
solarice
Ex. Club Member
Legalised theft in my book,
Having seen some of the things they get up to, i'm not sure it's all 100% legal. (from someone who's never worked in the industry).
Oh how i hate going through the list..."does the car have any modifications" "...yeah, how long you got".
But yeah insurance makes no sense.
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pollyp
Club Member
yea that did put me off the cheapest quote from Octogen when I read in forums etc bout how bad & dodgy they were. think I'll stick to well know ones
haha exactly the same. I'm like erm hmm got quite afew, I'll just email it to you
or say "yaknow that dropdown list under mods? just tick all of em"
then the long hold as they discuss with team leader.
I feel with you for insurance mate. My cars a right pig to insure and only Adrian flux will do it for me
You know you have a modified car tho when you confuse all the insurance companies apart from one!
My favourite is the deseaming on my mini, that's so hard to explain to a non mechanical minded person!
You know you have a modified car tho when you confuse all the insurance companies apart from one!
My favourite is the deseaming on my mini, that's so hard to explain to a non mechanical minded person!
I see Dave has had issues with Reis Paul but I will share my experience.
My car is insured with them on an agreed value. I needed to show them my competition license as well as a few photos of the car competing.
There was no need for motorsport papers as the car isn't log booked as its not needed for hill climbing.
A non race national b license is under £40 and requires no tests etc.
As you have used your car competitively and have photos maybe enquirer with REIS?
May be worth spending 40 to save a lot more?
My car is insured with them on an agreed value. I needed to show them my competition license as well as a few photos of the car competing.
There was no need for motorsport papers as the car isn't log booked as its not needed for hill climbing.
A non race national b license is under £40 and requires no tests etc.
As you have used your car competitively and have photos maybe enquirer with REIS?
May be worth spending 40 to save a lot more?
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pollyp
Club Member
yesterday went for another drive to charge her battery and clear the systems but upon boosting I heard this metallic pa-ting followed by a knock on the bulkhead floor.
ah christ what's fallen off this time. all the suspension, brakes steering seemed fine and didn't knock so the car's sound. did I leave a tool laying around?
tday looked underneath and found that one of the rear engine mount bolt has fallen out. that bolt was always troublesome cos it tended to feel like it's crossthreading with the weak Alu gearbox casing.
tried fitting the same fine-metric thread bolt but the case thread is clearly rounded.
so tried a course-metric bolt and it engaged abit better, dare not fully tighten it. will see if it holds.
if it doesn't hold, the mount is no longer secure and would have to buy another gearbox :/
ah christ what's fallen off this time. all the suspension, brakes steering seemed fine and didn't knock so the car's sound. did I leave a tool laying around?
tday looked underneath and found that one of the rear engine mount bolt has fallen out. that bolt was always troublesome cos it tended to feel like it's crossthreading with the weak Alu gearbox casing.
tried fitting the same fine-metric thread bolt but the case thread is clearly rounded.
so tried a course-metric bolt and it engaged abit better, dare not fully tighten it. will see if it holds.
if it doesn't hold, the mount is no longer secure and would have to buy another gearbox :/
Would it not be easier to drill and retail to the next size up Paul?
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pollyp
Club Member
yea that would be the best option but would have to wait till I have time to remove the gearbox, may have to trim the bracket to allow a bigger bolt head
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pollyp
Club Member
I'm not sure a tapped JB weld in a rounded smooth hole is strong enough to secure the rear mount vibrations, especially on track.
retapping to the next size up, keiping it metal-metal is the most secure but just requires a different size socket, a minor inconvenience.
another option would be to helicoil the stripped thread?
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pollyp
Club Member
just rang Reis and they can't cover her cos they require full trackday safety equipment like harness, rollcage, extinguisher etc which I can't afford.
so, not much options for when my insurance renews on april then.
either I keep running kasandra but cost a fortune to run, huge risk of getting nicked n lose everything.
or leave kasandra in garage to rot for few months while running a crummy boring standard car.
or insure both cars with the only viable insurer left, which is financially suicidal.
or say goodbye to kasandra and have a boring car.
So you need an extinguisher as well now? LOL
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pollyp
Club Member
guessing all this safety requirement for trackday use is to reduce risk of bodily harm from their risk assessors pov?
well I have those dinky tesco camp fire extinguishers in the glovebox if that counts
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pollyp
Club Member
said I have a highly modified daily car in garage for occasional trackdays & potentially a normal daily car out the front and ask how much to insure both
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pollyp
Club Member
I soo wanted it to happen, it would've been full circle to conclude the Polly blog. But twas not to be at these troubled times.
Well I've now got it in writing that you also require a competition licence and must be a member of an MSA registered car club. IIRC Paul Skinner said a non-race national b licence is sufficient but I've asked anyway, as I don't trust Alison.
wehey
Ex. Club Member
Just drive Kasandra Paul, it's the best option.
At the end of the day it's a Micra and no one really wants to steal it. Real criminals want high end cars. Pikeys and chavs might want it for a bit of joy riding but that's the worst case scenario.
Fit a hidden fuel cut off switch somewhere In the car then you know it can't be driven off. The worst thing that can then happen is someone breaks a window to nick your lunch box.
At the end of the day it's a Micra and no one really wants to steal it. Real criminals want high end cars. Pikeys and chavs might want it for a bit of joy riding but that's the worst case scenario.
Fit a hidden fuel cut off switch somewhere In the car then you know it can't be driven off. The worst thing that can then happen is someone breaks a window to nick your lunch box.
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pollyp
Club Member
just insuring it another year and using it daily and still use it for trackdays & shows would be the easiest choice but she's not in good condition for parking out in open street elements or running economically and would be high risk for me financially and personally if it was ruined or nicked.
it has NATS already so no need for another switch.
think the best thing is to fit a cellular alarm to notify my phone and perhaps paint the wheels black.
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pollyp
Club Member
time to remove the driveshafts and see why the inner RH CV hub wobbles so much and leak oil.
after long trip to nurburgring and a trackday, the oil plug doesn't have as much debris as before so tis good
the front pads have only worn down from 9.6mm new to 8mm since May
removed the driveshafts, measured the shaft diameter nearby the splines that slots through the diff casing and they're both 59.92mm dia.
inserted one of the driveshaft into the LSD LH and it's snug with minimal play, inserted the same shaft into the LSD RH and there's quite abit of play,
so it seems the RH of the LSD which holds the driveshaft end secure is worn too much. other than replacing the whole LSD casing or getting the hole machined & sleeved at an expense, there's not much that can be done.
popped the old gearbox seal off
here's the new seals
punched back in with a large socket. note only punch it till the seal face is flush with the casing and not all the way in or else it'll just rub on the LSD bearing cage
driving around town so far there's no visible gearbox leak, will see in few weeks
after long trip to nurburgring and a trackday, the oil plug doesn't have as much debris as before so tis good
the front pads have only worn down from 9.6mm new to 8mm since May
removed the driveshafts, measured the shaft diameter nearby the splines that slots through the diff casing and they're both 59.92mm dia.
inserted one of the driveshaft into the LSD LH and it's snug with minimal play, inserted the same shaft into the LSD RH and there's quite abit of play,
so it seems the RH of the LSD which holds the driveshaft end secure is worn too much. other than replacing the whole LSD casing or getting the hole machined & sleeved at an expense, there's not much that can be done.
popped the old gearbox seal off
here's the new seals
punched back in with a large socket. note only punch it till the seal face is flush with the casing and not all the way in or else it'll just rub on the LSD bearing cage
driving around town so far there's no visible gearbox leak, will see in few weeks
I would retap a new threaded hole for gearbox next size up and drill a bigger hole on the mount it self so it's new again
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pollyp
Club Member
If the current bolt still ain't holding, that'd be the easiest next step.
Clodo
Club Member
Haahaa I'm not sure if that's a compliment :L may I ask why :LChloe, I always thought you reminded me of someone and tday I was just watching Only fools & horses on telly and realised it was of rodneys lass, aand her names cassandra too, same as my car
View attachment 46500
Xx
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pollyp
Club Member
The casing seems fine and all sealed up. The only viable cause is that RH driveshaft wobbling about from the loose LSD shaft hole, upsetting the seal.
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pollyp
Club Member
Clodo
Club Member
Haahaa well thank-you very muchIt's a compliment
Hope you get insurance sorted
xx
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pollyp
Club Member
Haahaa well thank-you very much
Hope you get insurance sorted
ur welcome
aye I hoping my premium stays the same and can continue running her daily & on trackdays n trips. otherwise a year in a standard boring car without kasandra or any track action or car shows would be very very sad
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pollyp
Club Member
was looking for a broad flat nozzle for the vacuum cleaner to clean the bed & desk but didn't have any,
so I just modelled one up. flat tip maintaining the same area as the round pipe.
thought I'd try to print it as a continuous single-walled spiral-type weave for a fast smooth print
but this caused hollow gaps on steep overhanging curves
and the thin long straight unsupported sides simply buckled under the warping forces
so printed with a thicker 2mm stiff wall
and it's retained it's structure
and one flat nozzle ready to vacuum, works nicely
so I just modelled one up. flat tip maintaining the same area as the round pipe.
thought I'd try to print it as a continuous single-walled spiral-type weave for a fast smooth print
but this caused hollow gaps on steep overhanging curves
and the thin long straight unsupported sides simply buckled under the warping forces
so printed with a thicker 2mm stiff wall
and it's retained it's structure
and one flat nozzle ready to vacuum, works nicely
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pollyp
Club Member
Hehe were you walking in-between rooms whilst typing cos that usually causes forgetfulness.
My fuse pullers always there. If u lost urs, U can also use pullers from other scrap cars that use the same blade type fuses.
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pollyp
Club Member
dad wanted a new casing for this external microSSD drive so that on holiday he can easily open the case to swap the memory card without tools.
so modelled the components
first design was simply two clamshells that clip together with these tab fingers
printed it with the outer casing flat on the bed to remain level, but the thin fingers seem abit fragile and had loose tolerances
the spring loaded card inserts like this
and the casing clips together, but you can see how the clips aren't accurate enough to work and very vulerable to snapping off
redesigned the casing to slide together
little indents at the end of the sliding rails holds the casing secure
printed it with the big flat casing hovering above the bed in an attempt to fillet the outer edge for a rounded look
BUT this required a very long unstable "bridging" movement where it prints mid-air with no support so each strand droops and ruins the underside
removed all the supports and tested the fitment.
it was quite tight so some tolerances require tweaking
redesigned for printing flat against the bed. removed the rounded edge from the outside
and angled the overhanging lip edge 45deg so the printer can create it without drooping
prints flat on the bed much better
cleaned the little supports and the result is alot cleaner prints
installed the circuit
and the top parts slide nicely in place
so modelled the components
first design was simply two clamshells that clip together with these tab fingers
printed it with the outer casing flat on the bed to remain level, but the thin fingers seem abit fragile and had loose tolerances
the spring loaded card inserts like this
and the casing clips together, but you can see how the clips aren't accurate enough to work and very vulerable to snapping off
redesigned the casing to slide together
little indents at the end of the sliding rails holds the casing secure
printed it with the big flat casing hovering above the bed in an attempt to fillet the outer edge for a rounded look
BUT this required a very long unstable "bridging" movement where it prints mid-air with no support so each strand droops and ruins the underside
removed all the supports and tested the fitment.
it was quite tight so some tolerances require tweaking
redesigned for printing flat against the bed. removed the rounded edge from the outside
and angled the overhanging lip edge 45deg so the printer can create it without drooping
prints flat on the bed much better
cleaned the little supports and the result is alot cleaner prints
installed the circuit
and the top parts slide nicely in place
That's one brilliant bit of tech engineering! Love it 
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