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PollyMobiles Rebuild

Skinner_87 said:
If it sounds too good to be true mate it normally is!:)

£20 sounds just too cheap / its not on an exchange basis maybe? couldnt see anything on the site about it
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that's what I'm thinking.

anyway i asked them "hi could you verify that this items price of £20 is correct?" to be sure before purchase
 
pollyp said:
k found all the parts i need, just need to wirebrush the janspeed catback pipes.

thinking of replacing the dizzy cos it might be causing this warm random misfire.
was searching for used dizzys listed from £30-50 but then saw on ebay new lucas dizzys for £20!?

scaled.php

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LUCAS-DISTRIBUTOR-NISSAN-MICRA-MK2-K11-1-0i-1-3i-16V-42716-/310443513429?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model:Micra|Plat_Gen:K11&hash=item4847e01655

seems too good to be true? its cheaper than a dizzy cap. seller has good rating. u guys think it's genuine?
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Just bought one... for that price... cant go wrong
 
No. Not a chance. No indication at all that it's a Lucas. A green stripe on sticker doesn't mean a thing. Likely to be a cheap chinese copy, many of which parts work very nicely thankyou. It could even have come off the same production line as an original.

Would I buy one? Yes I think so. You will know whether it works within the sellers 7 day no quible return window.
 
reflexuk said:
No. Not a chance. No indication at all that it's a Lucas. A green stripe on sticker doesn't mean a thing. Likely to be a cheap chinese copy, many of which parts work very nicely thankyou. It could even have come off the same production line as an original.

Would I buy one? Yes I think so. You will know whether it works within the sellers 7 day no quible return window.
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I did buy one, I thought it would be funny is all.
 
SirChris said:
i am gunna laugh hard when 10 members of the msc get ripped off at the same time :D
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and I'll be laughing if we got working bargains :D

post up a photo when u get urs to compare we got the same one and we'll see if any of em work :p

its says the pic & part # only a ref but the casting feature & label n bits look similar to mine minus the nissan symbol
 
pollyp said:
and I'll be laughing if we got working bargains :D

post up a photo when u get urs to compare we got the same one and we'll see if any of em work :p

its says the pic & part # only a ref but the casting feature & label n bits look similar to mine minus the nissan symbol
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we defo should.
 
k lets begin. first the old janspeed's abit crusty rusty so wirebrushed it off

DSC07551.JPG

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and gave a lick of paint

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turbo & injectors off

DSC07553.JPG


i like this sorta manifold gasket cos it stays intact

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turbo inlets ok

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engine bay is now STOOCK :eek::D

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now taking a wee tea break before swapping the whole exhaust on a wet garage
 
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Its not the boost thats fails emissions cos its just free reving during the test, its the missing hot primary cat thats not there to clean up the gases and the secondary cat barely gets hot enough to meet the limits
 
Ah bugger, thats postage that is. You should get a return no dount and a replacement. If your lucky they will just send you a new one. Can fix that one ey! wonder how my one will turn up?
 
K11SS said:
Bet your a little paranoid now ;)

Pepper
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Naaa the ebay gods are with me. LOL. maybe a little worried haha. More worried about getting this engine back together... will I actually be able to get her to run after I have disassembling her. Timing and all that. Need to find how to make sure the cams are at the right point in orientation to the crank/pistons. Glens sending me some pistons today.
 
SirChris said:
Naaa the ebay gods are with me. LOL. maybe a little worried haha. More worried about getting this engine back together... will I actually be able to get her to run after I have disassembling her. Timing and all that. Need to find how to make sure the cams are at the right point in orientation to the crank/pistons. Glens sending me some pistons today.
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Thats not too bad Chris so long as you follow the dots on the cam wheels / gold timing chain links etc & TDC.

Sorry to spam Pollys thread but if you need the Haynes pages i can scan them in for you :)
 
Skinner_87 said:
Thats not too bad Chris so long as you follow the dots on the cam wheels / gold timing chain links etc & TDC.

Sorry to spam Pollys thread but if you need the Haynes pages i can scan them in for you :)
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SPAMMMM sorry polly we do this because we love you. I forgot I had a bloody haynes manual. is it in there then ?
 
Bad packaging suppose. If mine has the same issue, tisn't a prob cos i just use my current dizzy cap. Its more the dizzy coil that i'm interested in here
 
My reply was send it back and we'll refund you the money! But like you guys I want the coil more than the plastics lol! Hope nothing inside is broke!

Pepper
 
janspeed exhaust fitted in the wet garage, was absolutely drenched.

this exhaust used to bang against the rear swaybar and i noticed its cos the middle support near the cat was hanging too low.

measured it needed to be raised by 4cm so i made this bracket

DSC07560.JPG


lifted the system up and now it clears the swaybar abit better

DSC07561.JPG


fitted the cone filter on top of the TB, gives a luvely roar during WOT

twas raining cats n dogs and saw a car ahead go through a big puddle. i'm goin 50mph, no point stopping n turn around cos got an appointment so tried following the empty wake slowly but nope, water splash all over, big steam coming out the bonnet and develops a misfire under load, woops.

stopped over to check and yeah it got splashed alright but still running. it slightly misfires when pushing but after afew secs she soon clears up n runs smooth again, phew.

the new O2 and stock setup running very clean. something i noticed is that running with stock injectors and maf it doesn't show any warm random misfire anymore, so wonder could it actually be the turbo injectors thats misfiring? maybe little fuel dripping past the o-ring and into the cyl?

DSC07563.JPG


package arrived :)

DSC07564.JPG
DSC07566.JPG


not very well cusioned for such fragile plastic unit but thx god its intact.

very nice n well constructed

DSC07568.JPG
DSC07569.JPG


the rotor inside has nissan stamp

DSC07570.JPG
DSC07571.JPG


looks like the real deal.

its abit premature till i actually test it but LMAO chris we might've got a bargain :p
 
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pollyp said:
janspeed exhaust fitted in the wet garage, was absolutely drenched.

this exhaust used to bang against the rear swaybar and i noticed its cos the middle support near the cat was hanging too low.

measured it needed to be raised by 4cm so i made this bracket

scaled.php


lifted the system up and now it clears the swaybar abit better

scaled.php


fitted the cone filter on top of the TB, gives a luvely roar during WOT

twas raining cats n dogs and saw a car ahead go through a big puddle. i'm goin 50mph, no point stopping n turn around cos got an appointment so tried following the empty wake slowly but nope, water splash all over, big steam coming out the bonnet and develops a misfire under load, woops.

stopped over to check and yeah it got splashed alright but still running. it slightly misfires when pushing but after afew secs she soon clears up n runs smooth again, phew.

the new O2 and stock setup running very clean. something i noticed is that running with stock injectors and maf it doesn't show any warm random misfire anymore, so wonder could it actually be the turbo injectors thats misfiring? maybe little fuel dripping past the o-ring and into the cyl?

scaled.php


package arrived :)

scaled.php

scaled.php

scaled.php


not very well cusioned for such fragile plastic unit but thx god its intact.

very nice n well constructed

scaled.php

scaled.php


the rotor inside has nissan stamp

scaled.php

scaled.php


looks like the real deal.

its abit premature till i actually test it but LMAO chris we might've got a bargain :p
Click to expand...
I think we may have!
 
tdays been abit of a rush before MOT again.
took her for a blast to warm up then checked the plugs and yikes they're all really white :/

DSC07572.JPG


either she's running very lean or the oil rings gone and shes burning abit of oil and producing the white ash on the cooler plug which used to happen with the first forged engine that badly wasted oil:confused:

anyway no time to waste, back home i swapped over to the new dizzy and yay it works flawlessly:cool:

off for the mot retest...and this time she passed :D

same notes bout blue smoke under acceleration (again prob worn rings) and rear left brake line surface rust.

checked the dizzy cap and there's minimal hint of any oxide on the points (the old dizzy used to produce heavy build-up of oxides even on a new cap)

so tis all good for now
 
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pollyp said:
janspeed exhaust fitted in the wet garage, was absolutely drenched.

this exhaust used to bang against the rear swaybar and i noticed its cos the middle support near the cat was hanging too low.

measured it needed to be raised by 4cm so i made this bracket



lifted the system up and now it clears the swaybar abit better

scaled.php
Click to expand...

Get that metalwork off Polly. Those rubbers look stretched to hell! Put a thick tie wrap through the mounting holes in the rubbers and shorten them up the 40mm you need. I thought everyone knows this. Cheap uprated exhaust mounts ftw!
 
reflexuk said:
Get that metalwork off Polly. Those rubbers look stretched to hell! Put a thick tie wrap through the mounting holes in the rubbers and shorten them up the 40mm you need. I thought everyone knows this. Cheap uprated exhaust mounts ftw!
Click to expand...

tried it and won't work. the pipe has to be above where the rubber is bolted to the chassis hence the bracket. it workes perfectly fine.
those rubber mounts has supported the heavier turbo exhaust no probs.
 
I checked the old dizzys ign coil which was 0.8ohm cold.

The new dizzys ign coil was 1.4ohm cold and 1.1ohm hot so maybe the old coil's abit worn n shorting.

The spark plugs alittle bit less white powdery but i think what I should do next is fit the cooler bkr6e turbo plugs in n see if that also whites up to indicate either shes running very lean or burning some residue oil somewhere, or could it be the shell v power?
 
gave the cooler plugs a good wirebrush clean, took for a few long runs and this looks alot better. clean grounds and brown insulator

DSC07573.JPG


...hangon whys one a bcpr6e and ones a bkr6e?

also another thing i noticed. with the stock setup she no longer leaks or loses oil anymore o_O
 
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ok with the better weather, fixed garage drainage and quieter schedule, I just swapped everything back over to the turbo setup.

went for a test drive, corrected the steering and timing but even with a new dizzy she still partially randomly misfires at idle (maybe leaking 370cc injectors?) and backfires/pops at low rev as the injectors resume firing just after decelerating with fuel cutoff (dizzy prob retard too much). retweak further soon
 
I took measurements of the cat on the stock exhaust so in future i can reweld the cat on the turbo exhaust further up so i don't have to swap between the turbo and janspeed backbox which is a pita.

the front flange is 28cm from the front ARB while the rear flange is 58cm from the ARB

DSC07583.JPG
DSC07584.JPG


turbo exhaust fitted, was refitting and checking the rear brakes and noticed the rear right piston was seized so took it apart for a clean and tis working again

DSC07586.JPG


tday i repositioned the dizzy to match exactly what the old dizzy was and it no longer pops n bangs loudly during deceleration and response feels alot better (guess timing was retarded far to much)

fact that one of the plugs was a bcpr6e bugged me so went to get a new set of bkr6e

DSC07587.JPG


that oil leak has returned so I conclude the rear main seal is prob abit worn. when it was running stock with little blowby & crank pressure the main seal was fine but whenever I fit the turbo and go full boost the increased blowby pressurises the case and pushes oil past the rear seal soaking underneath

changed the oil & filter too
 
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news update
rang me cousin and my forged engine has been machined to spec n ready to pickup and only costs £40 :)

the T1R are gonna wear out soon and been debating wether to go for the expensive fed 595rsr or stick to the cheaper t1r.
but chatting with r-reg I figured since winters coming and with no income I should stay with the T1Rs cos its cheaper and know how they'll handle winter.
whereas the 595rsr is a summer semislick, twice expensive and no good in snow so would be a waste.

i know from record that the t1r will last prob few months with this turbo so by the time they're worn it'll prob be summer nxt year and a better time to make full use of the 595rsr semi's
 
got a spark gap gauge.

DSC07617.JPG


any measuring tool is only as accurate as its calibrated reference so I measured the indicated reading on the gauge with my digital calipers n plot the result. seems the readings from 0.5-1.2mm are bout -0.05mm offset but above 1.2mm they're accurate

gap.jpg


removed the new plugs, look pretty good.

DSC07616.JPG


measured all my new & old plugs and the cold plugs are well off.
the stock bkr5e-11 plugs are 1.1mm as specified in haynes but the colder bkr6e or bcpr6e are actually 0.825mm so no wonder it misfires slightly.

this tool is another one of those 'Why didn't I have this before'

slight oxide on the dizzy cap points cleaned off

DSC07619.JPG


lets see how she runs over the next few days
 
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so went to cousin to pickup the engine. was in pieces in box n hope none of the surfaces are dinged on the way home

DSC07623.JPG

DSC07624.JPG
 
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