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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
ok i'll go for the skyline pump me thinks
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
just a sec...
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
Could you please verify that the TB will fit with that rail pollypTIA
the modded rail that came with the turbo setup or the 200sx rail i just ordered?
hang on, just take a pic of the modded rail.
will take pic of new rail when it comes
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
yea got 2 nistunes. one mapped for current n/a setup and one mapped for the turbo setup (ed will remap it). will post nistune board etc in buy sell after the project
will be using the custom rails and swap the 370cc onto it
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
oh god, just did some rough sums and since i brought the £700 turbo setup off ebay upto now I've spent £1000 on parts to get it runnin, £178 to relocate battery, and £833 on LSD
plus extra £200 insurance increase, £150 remap, £70/hr dyno, estimated extra £104 a year running on 98ron
in total, the turbo/lsd conversion will cost me this year bout £3.3k :wow::wow::wow: bloodi heck (£3k parts & labour, +£300 running costs)
no wonder my wallet & brain is screaming away in the distance:laugh:
plus extra £200 insurance increase, £150 remap, £70/hr dyno, estimated extra £104 a year running on 98ron
in total, the turbo/lsd conversion will cost me this year bout £3.3k :wow::wow::wow: bloodi heck (£3k parts & labour, +£300 running costs)
no wonder my wallet & brain is screaming away in the distance:laugh:
frank
Club Member
TNT guy came tday with big box
new pressure plate, prob almera? the plate outer diameter is 190mm.
it looks like a purpose built one to me paul, with cute cut-outs for the bolts eh (so that the 190 plate will fit inside the 180mm pcd/boltholes)
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
Polly i was a little under £10k on my grey one alone. Never mind the other 7 micras i had
good lord:wow:
"so it's either this car or a bungalow" lol
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
^yea doin any mod or custom job for such car is never an easy bolt-on pain-free thing. makes it an interesting journey though.
was impressed the gearbox shop guy knew twas a micra diff instant he saw it without telling him, though he prob seen billions em, and said "lsd on a micra?" fwn
was impressed the gearbox shop guy knew twas a micra diff instant he saw it without telling him, though he prob seen billions em, and said "lsd on a micra?" fwn
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
s14 370cc injectors & seals arrived tday :grinning:
one broken pintle cap, prob been laid flot on table n chipped off. i could prob just swap the pintle from the 256 injectors yea?
regulator
guess they'll prob require cleaning. anyone recommend a good low cost ultrasonic injector cleaning shop?
one broken pintle cap, prob been laid flot on table n chipped off. i could prob just swap the pintle from the 256 injectors yea?
regulator
guess they'll prob require cleaning. anyone recommend a good low cost ultrasonic injector cleaning shop?
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
here's the 200sx rail compared to the modified sr20de rail on a micra manifold
purple 370cc injectors.
a neat treat that scopez told me on getting stuck injectors out is to swivel em till the plug head is near the corner of the injectors metal housing, stick a flathead between the gap at the bottom of the plug head and the housing and either pry or twist the driver to force the injector out.
370cc vs 256cc. only visual difference is the colour of the head and the small plastic cage near the tip
tried to take out the broken pintle, ended up having to split it with craft blade. anyone know of a non destructive way to remove em so i could swap between the injectors?
or shall i cut em off cos a read that the pintles are just to protect the nozzle from damage during fitting/prevent varnishing/keep the o-ring in place and that removal has no affect on operation. or fit new o-ring/cage filter/pintle kit for £30 after ultrasonic cleaning?
370 injectors on turbo rail
purple 370cc injectors.
a neat treat that scopez told me on getting stuck injectors out is to swivel em till the plug head is near the corner of the injectors metal housing, stick a flathead between the gap at the bottom of the plug head and the housing and either pry or twist the driver to force the injector out.
370cc vs 256cc. only visual difference is the colour of the head and the small plastic cage near the tip
tried to take out the broken pintle, ended up having to split it with craft blade. anyone know of a non destructive way to remove em so i could swap between the injectors?
or shall i cut em off cos a read that the pintles are just to protect the nozzle from damage during fitting/prevent varnishing/keep the o-ring in place and that removal has no affect on operation. or fit new o-ring/cage filter/pintle kit for £30 after ultrasonic cleaning?
370 injectors on turbo rail
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Nice one mate glad you got them ok and out the rail with ease (Y)
mentioning about the differences between the injectors, You'll probably notice that the plastic cage on the injectors from the US are higher up then ours, dunno what the differences are as there still the same size :wasntme:
Had the same problem with my pintle caps to polly, only i broke one of mine when removing it from the car(so delicate). I think there important for the spray pattern as well as what you said mate. I managed to swap my pintle over by using a flat small screwdriver and stanley blade, you just need to be able to gently prise it past the groove, kinda like a circlip...although I must say it was NOT easy but got there in the end..if its easier get a new set.
How did the injectors go in? nicely?
mentioning about the differences between the injectors, You'll probably notice that the plastic cage on the injectors from the US are higher up then ours, dunno what the differences are as there still the same size :wasntme:
Had the same problem with my pintle caps to polly, only i broke one of mine when removing it from the car(so delicate). I think there important for the spray pattern as well as what you said mate. I managed to swap my pintle over by using a flat small screwdriver and stanley blade, you just need to be able to gently prise it past the groove, kinda like a circlip...although I must say it was NOT easy but got there in the end..if its easier get a new set.
How did the injectors go in? nicely?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
yea i saw on some pics of the same injectors and on the injector rebuild kits that the side feed gauze were higher n broader.
tried removing pintle with flathead but it just squashes the o-ring or deform the edge lip of the pintle.
afew forums say removing the pintle didn't affect the injector but it prob does stop the small o-ring from being pushed out by fuel pressure or sucked by manifold vacuum, ingested into the engine and cause a big injector leak/run very rich. but can't justify paying £30 for full kit to just replace a single pintle so will try to swap instead.
actually does the ultrasonic cleaning shop take the injectors apart to clean? if so they could do the pintle swapping for me whilst cleaning?
injectors fit in snugly with a push n twist.
you can deffinatly get the pintle off mate, i think it was abit easier on mine, as the sentra rail with 1.6 injectors I had was alot more worn and slightly more flexible to prise. The only thing I was concerned for was the spray pattern of the injector which is what I read somewhere.
No forget the 30quid kit mate, I did come across just a packet of 4 pintle caps for the nissans injectors on ebay when I broke mine, but never got them cause managed to swap it over. I was just having a look for you but nothing yet, ill keep looking and post it if I find.
The ultrasonic cleaning is like a flush, there put into a machine and run at different rates until all flow the same, not 100% on all details, but I believe they refurb the rings too and give you a print of before and after results. I was going to get mine done before the turbo but was no need, had no problems with mine, and didnt like the idea of posting mine off to some random place lol. you should be fine
No forget the 30quid kit mate, I did come across just a packet of 4 pintle caps for the nissans injectors on ebay when I broke mine, but never got them cause managed to swap it over. I was just having a look for you but nothing yet, ill keep looking and post it if I find.
The ultrasonic cleaning is like a flush, there put into a machine and run at different rates until all flow the same, not 100% on all details, but I believe they refurb the rings too and give you a print of before and after results. I was going to get mine done before the turbo but was no need, had no problems with mine, and didnt like the idea of posting mine off to some random place lol. you should be fine
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
so just hoop on the new o-rings, slap on the injectors and hope for the best?
i'll try swap the pintle since i got 3 injectors to attempt on
the 256 injectors cage-mesh looks bit dry n rusty from being un-used so long but the 370 injectors appears and smells fresher of fuel so could be fine.
Yeah should be good to go mate, I didnt even get new rings for mine..my only error you know about already :wasntme:
with the pintle try and get under the edge on both sides as opposed to one..more like taking a hat off :laugh: very fiddly.
Yep that what my rails were like, s14 fresh, sentra dried/rusty.
Cant find that packet of four anymore mate..must of been a one off, sorry
with the pintle try and get under the edge on both sides as opposed to one..more like taking a hat off :laugh: very fiddly.
Yep that what my rails were like, s14 fresh, sentra dried/rusty.
Cant find that packet of four anymore mate..must of been a one off, sorry
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
If you wanna clean them, theres a poor mans cleaner setup on youtube. Looks easy enough to do and will be a lot cheaper. Providing you can get the bits on (not sure on clearance on those injectors)
i'll check it out
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
nice, cheers scott
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
just saw noddie's selling his forged piston engine for 600. would be good as a stronger backup engine incase the stock block is pushed too far.
or should i just fit the forged engine to turbo anyway so that it could either:
a- be able to withstand the 10psi 163bhp more reliably or
b- attempt for more power, risking a more expensive blowup and make the 2 spare stock engines obsolete cos they may not handle the higher power the forged engine was mapped for.
or should i just fit the forged engine to turbo anyway so that it could either:
a- be able to withstand the 10psi 163bhp more reliably or
b- attempt for more power, risking a more expensive blowup and make the 2 spare stock engines obsolete cos they may not handle the higher power the forged engine was mapped for.
TBH i would just fit the low comp engine first, everyone i have spoken to about turboing says do it right first time. The low comp engine will handle WAY more than 10psi (when mapped properly). the limit will be getting the power down haha!
Im a bit sad to see this engine go, but i think you will use it better than i would (iv got no more money to put into mine to take advantage of the engine) so it will be nice to see it making some good power.
keep us updated!
martinb
Ex. Club Member
Damn man, didn't tell me it was going dude!! What an awesome setup you could have Paul, I reckon 200bhp is possible
No offence Paul but you seem more capable to put it to use than some of us due to financial reasons, i think you could build the monster slayer!!
Ed what you going for? Mapped at 6-7psi?
No offence Paul but you seem more capable to put it to use than some of us due to financial reasons, i think you could build the monster slayer!!
Ed what you going for? Mapped at 6-7psi?
Sadly, I think your right martin.
And yeah, somthing like that. hey, better than nothing eh
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
hey finally got back from hong kong, twas a looong flight.
gearbox guy was off tday so gonna ring tomorrow to get the diff
the riveted clutch pedal was creakin n clicking alot under load cos the sparco pedal plate was rocking slightly on the curvier pedal face and snapped one of the rivet head off too. so i bent the sparco plate abit to conform to the pedal, riveted back on and no longer creaks
noddie, by low comp engine, ya mean the forged piston engine yeah? then get it mapped for more juice?
that would be an ideal thing but few issues bugga me:
- the addition of swapping the engine requires a crane = hire cost
- more time & effort to swap engine
- since the engine ya built is new n honed, it requires bedding in the moment it starts up = progressive loading & reving up to WOT. coupled with the turbo WG thats not configured for 10psi yet and the turbo map might not be matched to the forged engine, i risk either blowing up the forged motor whilst trying to bed the rings in or end up glazing the rings whilst keeping off WOT & high revs to control boost and making the rings blow badly.
not sure bout pushing to 200bhp martin cos i'm only after abit more juice down the track straights, not a mega monster that'll snap driveshafts n shred gearboxes.
i think as baguetes mentioned, the safest n economical solution for now is to simply turbo the stock engine, the mapping will be ok for driving to Ed to remap since the setup is roughly the same as kristians, and aim to finetune it for 10psi 160bhp'ish.
then when it blows on track, i'll need to hire a crane n some holidays, fit forged engine, proper bed-in the rings since the turbo WG & map would be sorted by then, and maybe remap for more boost if i desire.
gearbox guy was off tday so gonna ring tomorrow to get the diff
the riveted clutch pedal was creakin n clicking alot under load cos the sparco pedal plate was rocking slightly on the curvier pedal face and snapped one of the rivet head off too. so i bent the sparco plate abit to conform to the pedal, riveted back on and no longer creaks
noddie, by low comp engine, ya mean the forged piston engine yeah? then get it mapped for more juice?
that would be an ideal thing but few issues bugga me:
- the addition of swapping the engine requires a crane = hire cost
- more time & effort to swap engine
- since the engine ya built is new n honed, it requires bedding in the moment it starts up = progressive loading & reving up to WOT. coupled with the turbo WG thats not configured for 10psi yet and the turbo map might not be matched to the forged engine, i risk either blowing up the forged motor whilst trying to bed the rings in or end up glazing the rings whilst keeping off WOT & high revs to control boost and making the rings blow badly.
not sure bout pushing to 200bhp martin cos i'm only after abit more juice down the track straights, not a mega monster that'll snap driveshafts n shred gearboxes.
i think as baguetes mentioned, the safest n economical solution for now is to simply turbo the stock engine, the mapping will be ok for driving to Ed to remap since the setup is roughly the same as kristians, and aim to finetune it for 10psi 160bhp'ish.
then when it blows on track, i'll need to hire a crane n some holidays, fit forged engine, proper bed-in the rings since the turbo WG & map would be sorted by then, and maybe remap for more boost if i desire.
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
I'll have to add it to my original turbo planning schedule but I guess I could prep and fit the forged engine and LSD gearbox leaving the janspeed exhaust on, bed the forged engine in, then fit and configure the turbo afterwards before remapping?
This is what i would do if i were you tbh.
Maybe ring up Ed and see what he suggests if your taking it down there for the mapping?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
agree. ok i'm thinking of popping over to brighton this saturday 19th to pickup the engine cos:
- i don't wanna cause an inconvenience for ur sister if she's carrying loadsa stuff from brighton to liverpool
- i goto pub with m8s on sunday nights, so driving to brighton or liverpool and back home, I may not make it in time
- and it'll also give me more prep time getting the engine ready for swapping before the project begins in april, rather than grabbing the engine from ur sister on 20-26th and rushing about
will call Ed soon bout booking the mapping and if it'll be ok to drive down with the turbo map on a slightly different setup and a lower compression forged engine. i think that once i fitted the turbo, as long as i just drive normally to Ed it'll survive.
solarice
Ex. Club Member
AAS : http://www.aas-exhausts.co.uk/
Chances are they might be busy (depends how much you need doing), which can sometimes mean a few weeks wait. But they are busy for a reason
Chances are they might be busy (depends how much you need doing), which can sometimes mean a few weeks wait. But they are busy for a reason
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
OK this is the plan i've written up. the preparation before the project starts and when swapping parts from the stock engine/gearbox is dependant on what bits the forged engine assembly is missing
_________________________________________________________________________
Preparation before starting conversion
Cockpit Instruments while car is outside garage
Removing engine & gearbox
Preparations & swap parts while engines out of bay
Install Forged engine
Bed-in forged Engine
Fit Turbo
External work
Minor tasks after conversion
need to estimate schedule next so i know roughly when to book the exhaust welding and Eds remapping
_________________________________________________________________________
Preparation before starting conversion
- Fabricate Air filter mount/or just buy a proper clamp-on filter
- Upgrade Walbro/Skyline GTS-T fuel pump
- Fit Gripper LSD diff into spare gearbox
- Grease & fit clutch thrust bearing
- Swap 370cc injectors broken pintle
- Fit 370cc injectors into modded turbo rail
- Disassemble forged engine external parts
- Wirebrush forged engine
- Paint forged engine
- Replace coolant return pipe o-ring
- Paint & fit coolant return pipe
- Check forged engine water pump, thermostat, oil & coolant sensors
- Check valve clearances
- Remove stock sump from forged engine
- Fit turbo sump onto forged engine
- Replace forged engine oil filter
- Fit inlet manifold onto forged engine
- Fit alternator belt tensioner onto forged engine
- Drive with a tank of 98ron beforehand
Cockpit Instruments while car is outside garage
- Disarm alarm
- Disconnect battery 30mins
- Remove A_pillars
- Remove stereo & 3.5mm ext plug
- Remove instru
- Remove airbag & steering
- Remove dash
- Feed boost gauge pipe through bulkhead
- Fit wideband LC-1 controller
- Wire up boost gauge & wideband
- Connect battery & test lights & wideband
- Fit steering wheel
Removing engine & gearbox
- Heatup engine
- Park into garage
- Depressurise fuel system
- Heater turned full hot
- Disconnect battery
- Jack up front
- Drain oil
- Drain coolant
- Drain gearbox oil
- Remove air filter
- Disconnect throttle cable
- Remove TB
- Diconnect brake & canistor vac line
- Remove stock fuel rail
- Remove leads & dizzy
- Remove wheels
- Unbolt driveshaft
- Unbolt brakes
- Unbolt strut-hub
- Remove alternator & bracket
- Disconnect O2 sensor
- Unbolt front swaybar mount
- Unclip downpipe support
- Unbolt downpipe from cat
- Unbolt & pull janspeed manifold from engine
- Feed janspeed downpipe out of support
- Remove driveshaft
- Disconnect PAS pump from engine
- Disconnect gear linkages
- Disconnect oil pressure sensor,
- Disconnect reverse, neutral,
- Remove rear engine mount
- Remove arch
- Remove headlights
- Remove bumper
- Remove horn
- Remove bonnet lock
- Remove rad top support
- Remove pas cooler
- Remove radiator
- Disconnect all coolant pipes
- Disconnect clutch
- Disconnect speedo
- Disconnect loom grounding,
- Disconnect temp sensors,
- Disconnect starter motor
- Support engine/box on crane
- Remove front engine mount
- Remove gearbox mount
- Unbolt RH mount
- Crane stock engine & gearbox out
- Remove stock gearbox
- Remove stock clutch
Preparations & swap parts while engines out of bay
- Paint dash matte black
- Finish chassis holes for IC pipes
- Drill holes for mounting intercooler
- Wirebrush, treat & repaint chassis surface rust
- Fit stone mesh onto bumper mouth
- Swap Jun flywheel onto forged engine
- Fit helix clutch kit
- Turn forged engine TDC
- Fit lsd gearbox
- Fit starter
- Swap alternator bracket from stock to forged engine
Install Forged engine
- Crane forged engine & LSD gearbox in
- Bolt RH mount
- Fit gearbox mount
- Fit front mounts
- Fit rear mounts
- Fit PAS pump
- Connect selector linkage
- Fit driveshaft
- Remove crane
- Feed janspeed downpipe through support
- Fit janspeed manifold to engine
- Fit alternator & bracket
- Fit janspeed manifold to cat
- Fit front swaybar mount
- Connect electronic sensors
- Connect clutch
- Connect all coolant pipes
- Remove rad fan
- Clean & straighten radiator fins
- Trim rad fan shroud
- Move radiator fan closer
- Fit radiator
- Fit intercooler
- Bend new pas cooler & fit
- Fit rad top support
- Fit bonnet lock
- Fit horn
- Fit bumper
- Fit headlights
- Fit arch
- Fit strut-hub
- Fit brakes
- Connect O2 sensor
- Fit alternator
- Fit wheels
- Fit leads & dizzy
- Fit brake & canistor vac line
- Fit TB
- Fit stock injectors
- Fit boost pipe onto FPR line
- Fit throttle cable
- fill gearbox with LSD oil
- Connect speedo
- Fit air filter
- Replace fuel filter
- Remove spark plugs
- Fill & bleed coolant
- Fill with break-in oil?
- Lower car onto ground
- Push car out
- Remove steering wheel
- Fit dash
- Fit steering
- Fit airbag
- Fit dash instru
- fit stereo
- fit A-pillars
- Remove fuel pump fuse
- Prime oil system
- Fit stock spark plugs
- Fit fuel pump fuse
- Prime fuel system
Bed-in forged Engine
- 12am Bed-in forged engine for 500miles
- bed in LSD with figure 8 turns
Fit Turbo
- Park into garage
- Depressurise fuel system
- Jack up front & rear
- Drain engine oil
- Drain gearbox oil
- Replace oil filter
- Remove air filter
- Fill with 10w40 oil
- Fill with LSD oil
- Remove alternator & bracket
- Remove janspeed manifold & catback
- Fit Turbo & manifold
- Fit turbo alternator bracket
- Fit alternator
- Fit Induction piping
- Mount air filter onto chassis
- Fit turbo oil feed
- Fit exhaust system
- Fit 370cc injector rail onto forged engine inlet manifold
- Remove stock spark plugs
- Swap to turbo mapped nistune board
- Remove fuel pump fuse
- Prime oil system till oil exits turbo drain
- Fit turbo oil drain to sump
- Lower car onto ground
- Fit colder spark plugs onto forged engine
- Fit fuel pump fuse
- Prime fuel system
- Start engine
External work
- Drive to AAS exhaust
- Weld wideband bung
- Weld cat flange
- Fit & connect wideband sensor
- Check AFR, correct nistune if needed
- Drive to Ed for remap
Minor tasks after conversion
- Move reg plate up
- Smooth & paint a-pillars
- Weld sill
- Paint bonnet
- Paint sill
- Paint door
- Bump strip
- Allen bolts
- Short shifter
need to estimate schedule next so i know roughly when to book the exhaust welding and Eds remapping
