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N240 RAP - Back again.

With JAE fast approaching, I thought I'd start putting a list together.


Full respray & fix rust (booked in for August) []
New wheels []
New steering wheel []
Ford Puma gear knob and ally shift gate []

Doesn't sound like a lot but all expensive stuff. Saving like mad!
 
Okay, so here's what happens when you're stupid, and don't check brake pads, and tires. I'm posting this as a warning to others and myself again ..
I took the car out tonight for a drive as it was a nice evening, and I haven't driven it for a while. I noticed a scraping noise on the brakes... thought nothing of it, thought it was a stone or something. Did another little test, and same thing happened, only with less braking... We decided to head back straight away and investigate. Here's what we found.
13292873_1037255886368145_167505743_n.jpg

The inner brake pad on the O/S/F was like new. The outer one... well it's just metal. The piston in the caliper might not be functioning correctly? Any thoughts appreciated.

After my accident, I didn't have the alignment done. Here's the result.
13277978_1037256026368131_268886380_n.jpg

I feel incredibly stupid for letting this happen.

13263738_965258200285033_2337139717137976785_n.jpg

The car currently looks like this. Legal tires on the front, and the brake pads switched round till new ones are ordered. This car won't be driven anywhere until the new pads are on.
I'm very lucky we caught this when we did, could have been catastrophic.

Stupid boy!!
 
That looks to me like you might have a sticky piston on the calliper? Just try pumping the pedal/pushing the piston back in over and over whilst spraying lubricant around it.
 
Before I've just pushed the piston out far (without fully removing it, use some old brake pads to stop it coming all the way out)
Then just used a wd40 product around the seal - probably did sod all, but this worked for me.
Keep pushing the piston back in and repeating this until free

Alternatively you may have sticky calliper slides, just remove them, wire brush off any rust and then regrease
 
worn outer pad is caused by sticking/seized caliper guide pins.

take out the pins & rubber cover,
clean the pin & bore with carb/brake cleaner & wirebrush,
inspect for any bad rust & clearances in the pin/bore, replace if excessive or sloppy.
check if the small rubber sleeve has swollen too tightly against the bore to cause a jam (caused by using petroleum grease), replace if swollen.
check rubber cover for damage.
regrease any rubber seal based assembly with red rubber grease or silicone paste. do not use petroleum grease like generic grease, CV grease, copper grease etc.
 
Decided I'm probably going to go with a Micra brake set up, as they're bigger, and easier to get pads and disks!
Will update when that happens.

Removed the gear linkage today, to have pauls special ball bearing bush treatment!
 
Rubbish day :(
Started taking everything apart for the Micra brake swap, can't get the hub off, the nut around the ball joint is just welded in :(
Really pee'd off with it.
 
MaxK11C said:
Rubbish day :(
Started taking everything apart for the Micra brake swap, can't get the hub off, the nut around the ball joint is just welded in :(
Really pee'd off with it.
Click to expand...

if you wanna keep the ball joint & threads intact, grind the side of the nut off.

if you wanna keep the ball joint and don't mind losing the top lock pin hole, grind all the exposed rusty thread above the nut, jack up from under the balljoint against the strut to stop the taper from spinning, heat up the nut, wd40, then undo the nut preferably with an impact.

if you don't mind replacing the balljoint & arm, cut through the nut/thread
 
Okayyyy long time no update.
Work has been mental busy, and I've had little time/motivation.
The car is still off the road, although in many more pieces now than it has been for a while.
We've nearly finished the Micra brake upgrade, we're just missing the four bolts to hold the calipers to the hub.
The car is being trailered to my friend's shop on Tuesday who's going to weld the 4-2-1 mani up for me.
Nearly back on the road, hopefully by the end of the week. then can concentrate on making it look pretty for JAE.
This has been ****ing stressful :(
 
Car got a much needed deep clean today, ready for JAE.
13879437_1048927561918096_8917150058531316420_n.jpg
14079551_1048927671918085_7644204607029485360_n.jpg
14183800_1048927135251472_1538485236846882008_n.jpg
14184450_1048927488584770_1014254547290184483_n.jpg
14192098_1048927275251458_8114192146720349075_n.jpg




@pollyp after I had my gear linkages reinstalled, they seem to have rattled their way loose again and are rattling again :S
 
Dug the car out of the garage today to be met with mould ...
Oops.
Any tips on storing car?
 
Yup. You can buy big bags of silica gel pretty cheap online.

Have a few and rotate them now and them and place them indoors to dry out to be reused.
 
I am unsure on the future of this car :(
I'm losing the garage it's stored in.
And the more it sits the more it's deteriorated...
D:
 
My Super S was stored for about four years just passed MOT and welded up. It had 4 new holes on first MOT, that was considerd being hard by previous MOT. Depends quite a bit on the humidity (and for my case not favourable) and which is almost impossible to controll and therefore I recommend bringing down the rust volume. The baddest way is greasing it up but that surely will do a lot already
 

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