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My facelift K11
- Thread starter euro_micra
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OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
It would come out best if a professional did it. The way I did it just seemed to be the most efficient way of getting a half decent result imo. And my car's always dirty so it doesn't stand out too bad, but when cleaned you can see the changes in quality of finish between it and other panels. Shaun got his professionally done by Will, that came out great and would put any diy aerosol job to shame. So it depends what you want the result to be like, versus the amount of effort or cost to get it done.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Finished my uni module, for now. So I can get back on with putting the turbo together. I'm still sourcing some 2nd hand silencers, 2 brand new ones are going to set me back a ton, and I haven't budgeted that much for them.
'till then I've just been playing:
Fitted a a/f/r gauge.
That's it in its current position, will find a subtle place in the dash at some point, and paint the silver black.
None of the 3 wires on the lambda would work :s its working ok plugged into pin 105 in the ecu though - I think. Results showing it runs lean at cruise until about 60mph then it goes off the scale lean at anything above it. Or if the throttles 3/4 open or more its off the scale lean. (edit: no, pin 105 appears to run <0.2v when at idle and cruise, then jumps to 13v> at WOT or lean perhaps. And the voltmeter says the black lambda wire works, but the gauge doesn't appear to agree)
Fitted a set of the GA injectors, they appear to be running fine, no issues at all, pulls a tad better at lower rpm but nothing to shout about.
They run borderline lean/stoich at cruise only a whisker higher than the CGs on the gauge, and just like the CG injectors anything over 60mph or more than half throttle it goes of the scale lean again. (edit: runs rich, but lean/stoich at idle and wot in fourth and fifth.)
I'm going to plug Nissan Datascan in and see how that fares with comparing the injectors.
'till then I've just been playing:
Fitted a a/f/r gauge.
That's it in its current position, will find a subtle place in the dash at some point, and paint the silver black.
)Fitted a set of the GA injectors, they appear to be running fine, no issues at all, pulls a tad better at lower rpm but nothing to shout about.
I'm going to plug Nissan Datascan in and see how that fares with comparing the injectors.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Nothing I've done would cause it to run lean or leaner than it's suposed to be, I don't think.
CG13 cams,
GA airbox,
& now GA injectors.
It would be the ECU forcing it I'd have thought. Last time I had the laptop plugged in it seemed to bounce around 0.7 at cruise, going to 0.2 at WOT then 0.02 when released iirc. Which seems to correspond to the afr gauge too.
I could trick the ecu into thinking there's more air which should increase fueling, but the ecu knows what's best. Think I may unplug the coolent temp sensor, which should make it run at an almost constant 13:1(not sure if that set by the ecu or not), we'll see how the car and the gauge behaves then.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Plugged the laptop in after fitting the GA injectors, got readings of 0.8v(rich) at cruise, and 0.2v(lean) at anything more than half throttle, need that 0.8v at WOT too ideally. Unplugged the coolant temp sensor, but that just made it over fuel all the time, even at idle and on overrun, and generally felt lumpy. Pulled better around 3000rpm but not enough to warrant the excessive fuelling, so that's been plugged back in.
New spark plugs
Super4s. Over gapped them and car's behaving well.
The GA injectors and Super 4s are definitely doing something. It does hesitate a bit when throttle's been closed a while, like at traffic lights. But it's pulling better at low rpm and acceleration in 3rd is a tad better which makes overtaking a little easier, and just feels happier at higher rpm. There's still loads of room for improvement though
I think I may go back to CG injectors now though, but add a 5th injector for fuel enrichment on WOT. Or maybe a switch on the throttle pedal that disconects the coolent temp sensor.
Fitted a black snooker ball gearknob and extension from Mark, thank you mate. Feels very hot-rodish at that height and a very nice change from the rather low short shifter.
New spark plugs
Super4s. Over gapped them and car's behaving well.
The GA injectors and Super 4s are definitely doing something. It does hesitate a bit when throttle's been closed a while, like at traffic lights. But it's pulling better at low rpm and acceleration in 3rd is a tad better which makes overtaking a little easier, and just feels happier at higher rpm. There's still loads of room for improvement though
I think I may go back to CG injectors now though, but add a 5th injector for fuel enrichment on WOT. Or maybe a switch on the throttle pedal that disconects the coolent temp sensor.
Fitted a black snooker ball gearknob and extension from Mark, thank you mate. Feels very hot-rodish at that height and a very nice change from the rather low short shifter.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
This 9mm lift inlet cam has been in a few weeks now, result is pretty good. Pulls better at mid rpm and is still noticeably better upto the limiter (which is far too easy to hit now) not fitted the exhaust cam as I think that could raise the powerband too high for a daily 1.0 litre. But I'll try it at some point.
Lopey idle sounds pretty funky, but not too loud at the moment due to the stock exhaust. GA injectors may contribute.
The GA injectors are running great 99% of the time. Idle is all over the place on the afr gauge. It can also bog down when setting off occasionally, gives just enough to let you pull out onto a road but then cuts out for about 3 seconds, which I really don't like CG injectors will go back in and I'll have a play with the fuel pressure. But closed loop is working well with the GA's and I'm getting fuel enrichment at wot in all gears now too.
I'm sure the front end keeps lowering itself lol, I think the rears may need some encouragement to match before japfest2
Tested a cheaply made induction kit out today, just for fun.
It gets loud at half throttle, but not as loud as I thought it would be, quieter than removing the pipe from the airbox.
I thought the induction noise would be a nice change to the quiet airbox but all I get is an awfull Paaarp Perrrrp noise over 50% throttle. And the power at 500-1500rpm and 3500-5500rpm has reduced a fair bit!
So that was replaced quickly.
Similar to what I had before, 3" intake reducing to 2" and it's much better, quieter and accelerates smoother over the whole rev range.
I plugged in a temp sensor too. Air tempurature when cold was 16*c.
After 15mins of mixed driving and while travelling at 30mph the induction kit read 38*c. The GA airbox with custom cai read 22*c.
It's not going to be completely accurate, but it's shown quite a difference between the two.
After parked up with ignition off for 30mins they're both around 30*c.
Lopey idle sounds pretty funky, but not too loud at the moment due to the stock exhaust. GA injectors may contribute.
The GA injectors are running great 99% of the time. Idle is all over the place on the afr gauge. It can also bog down when setting off occasionally, gives just enough to let you pull out onto a road but then cuts out for about 3 seconds, which I really don't like
CG injectors will go back in and I'll have a play with the fuel pressure. But closed loop is working well with the GA's and I'm getting fuel enrichment at wot in all gears now too.I'm sure the front end keeps lowering itself lol, I think the rears may need some encouragement to match before japfest2
Tested a cheaply made induction kit out today, just for fun.
It gets loud at half throttle, but not as loud as I thought it would be, quieter than removing the pipe from the airbox.
I thought the induction noise would be a nice change to the quiet airbox but all I get is an awfull Paaarp Perrrrp noise over 50% throttle. And the power at 500-1500rpm and 3500-5500rpm has reduced a fair bit!
So that was replaced quickly.
Similar to what I had before, 3" intake reducing to 2" and it's much better, quieter and accelerates smoother over the whole rev range.
I plugged in a temp sensor too. Air tempurature when cold was 16*c.
After 15mins of mixed driving and while travelling at 30mph the induction kit read 38*c. The GA airbox with custom cai read 22*c.
It's not going to be completely accurate, but it's shown quite a difference between the two.
After parked up with ignition off for 30mins they're both around 30*c.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
you can get cams reground for about 110 each, I got mine 2nd hand so there were a little cheaperhow much did the cams set you back? pm if you don't want to say on here...
There's not that much of an improvement compared to the cg13 cams on this 1 litre imo, but I'll have to get a video up of the acceleration, it's not bad at all especially when it comes on cam.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Got a new 0-60 video now I've got the wilder inlet cam and GA injectors in.
Slightly dissapointed tbh, I knew it wasn't going to be any quicker, but it's actually slower than before, possibly due to the rpm limiter now. But it does pull better at mid rpm which makes it feel more powerfull as a commuter, so that's good.
In the search for more I installed the reground exhaust cam and undershim buckets, had to settle with .45mm clearence which was a little noisey
The performance was poor though, akin to stock cg10 cams I think.
So that exhaust cam was removed and I fitted a cg10 one.
Performance was slightly better low down but then it hit a wall at about 5000rpm.
So in the end I swapped back to the CG13 exhaust cam.
Which is clearly the best choice, it's better everwhere on the rpm scale, except when it bogs down at around 1000rpm.
I've now advanced the inlet cam roughly 3* by filing a sprocket.
That additional advance has now pulled the powerband down and smoothed it out nicely, so it's a little more comfortable as a daily driver now, I keep forgeting it's only a 1.0 litre. But I still need more.
Slightly dissapointed tbh, I knew it wasn't going to be any quicker, but it's actually slower than before, possibly due to the rpm limiter now. But it does pull better at mid rpm which makes it feel more powerfull as a commuter, so that's good.
In the search for more I installed the reground exhaust cam and undershim buckets, had to settle with .45mm clearence which was a little noisey
The performance was poor though, akin to stock cg10 cams I think.
So that exhaust cam was removed and I fitted a cg10 one.
Performance was slightly better low down but then it hit a wall at about 5000rpm.
So in the end I swapped back to the CG13 exhaust cam.
Which is clearly the best choice, it's better everwhere on the rpm scale, except when it bogs down at around 1000rpm.
I've now advanced the inlet cam roughly 3* by filing a sprocket.
That additional advance has now pulled the powerband down and smoothed it out nicely, so it's a little more comfortable as a daily driver now, I keep forgeting it's only a 1.0 litre.
But I still need more.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
There's the GA airbox ontop of the throttle body, connected to that is a 2.5"o/d short 90* bend, then a 2" i/d 45* bend which I've replaced with a bit of flexi hose, then a bit of staight pipe to connect to a 2" to 3" 90* bend. All parts were spare, if I was going to buy something I'd just get a 2" 2ply flexi hose to one of them trumpets to fit near the horns, would be a bit simpler.
An A/F/R gauge basically displays the air to fuel ratio from the lambda sensor.
Right, so if I were going from scratch what would I need and what sort of places would I acquire it? Could I put one of those like carbon fibre intakes on the end rather than a trumpet, and in that case would I still need an air-box, or would it do any harm to still have the air box?
What is a GA airbox? Primera/Almera?
What is a GA airbox? Primera/Almera?
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Apart from the usual guides and how to's..
I'd advise you to mark the positions of the cam, sprocket and chain very clearly, as putting them in one tooth out is quite easy imo
Don't drop the sprocket washer, it can be a nightmare to fish out, a rag stuffed underneath the sprockets will help save things.
Loosen the tensioner to aid putting the chain back on, I personally just press it in with a screwdriver.
Do the inlet cam first and try it out, that exhaust cam can change the powerband quite a bit.
It's dead simple when done correctly. Your not going to get masses of power, but you feel like you've got back what Nissan took, and it's very worth while.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Thanks mate. Do you use a torque wrench to do the cam holders back up?
Any other special tools needed?
Thanks again
I use a torque wrench yeah, doesn't strictly require one but always better to be safe than sorry, I definately recommend to use one. And no special tools needed, just spanners and sockets etc.
If you follow the Haynes manual you shouldn't go far wrong
brilliant in depth blog here, and a top notch micra that deserves it
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Seems to have been a while since I last updated here.
Anyway, the turbo's on and has been running for about 2000miles now, here's a little rundown if you've not been here.
Current setup is a little like this:
T2 from fiesta rs (t15 sized exhaust, t2 sized inlet IIRC)
T3 actuator from escort rs, adapted to fit. Peaks about 8psi, but I rarely push it past 5psi.
Manifold and downpipe by frank.
DIY 2.25" exhaust (2x cherrybombs, 2" modified stock backbox)
2" silicone charge pipe, no intercooler, over plastic rocker cover.
VAG Bosch recirc blow off valve.
Tim boost gauge.
Innovate MTX-L wideband gauge.
Skyline GTS-T fuel pump.
12:1 rising rate fpr / fmu.
BKR7 spark plugs.
9mm lift inlet cam.
CG13 exhaust cam.
'flowed' stock TB.
Turbo going on, I waited months for this.
Intake and charge pipe sorted.
12:1 rising rate, plumbed in after the stock fpr, which is now set at 3bar. Can use a bleed valve on the vacuum line to reduce the boost pressure which will drop the fuel pressure to suit.
Downpipe, frank eyeballed it off the car and it's within millimeters of being spot on, well done mate.
Wideband O2 sensor and the 2 cherrybombs.
My attempt at making a 2" single chamber version of the stock backbox.
Looks subtle. Sounds allright, not loud, just beefy like a 2 litre.
Dump valve redirected to blow into the cabin. So it's quiet on the outside, loud on the inside.
GTS-T fuel pump. It was leaning out above 5000rpm with the stock one. And it still is with this, but it has a better response though. Not a straight forward swap on these facelifts either.
MTX-L wideband. With lambda unplugged, stock injectors, speedsensor cut, I'm getting 13:1 at cruise but there is a 15:1 sweetspot, 12:1 under acceleration leaning out gradually as boost rises to 17:1 at about 6psi.
Boost gauge, 1 bar, I don't think I'll be going any higher haha.
Spends most of time off boost espescially with retarded ignition timing. But I'm now running advanced ignition timing so anything more than 1/4 throttle it's at 0psi, which is surprisingly torquey for this 1 litre. Positive pressure comes in around 3000rpm but I'm usually shifting up before 5000rpm due to the lean out.
I've still got a long way to go.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
it pulls quite well. 0-60mph through the gears is about 12 seconds with just 1psi, which isn't bad, I think. Acceleration above 50mph is a lot better now too. It'll be fairly rapid at high rpm once I have this fuelling sorted and get wider tyres to stop the wheelspin in 1st n 2nd gears.
But you've really got to be in the right gear at the time, otherwise your off boost and down on power. Plan's to put on a 1mm skimmed port n polished head, which should see a nice gain on and off boost.
Would really like to compare it against a 1.3 with a similar spec on a 1/4 mile.
Got my dials in the dash now. Conveniently placed imo, not too distracting but easily readable while not looking out of place.
Plugged the MTX-L's narrowband wire to the ecu, which has raised the afr to about 15/16:1 on cruise, but doesn't quite close loop like it should. Currently returning approx 400miles a tank, not too bad.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Reduced the spring load on the actuator a tad the other week so it stays shut untill boost, also plugged all vacuum hoses up so none are loose. This means I'm now running 1psi even on light throttle, with 13:1 afr, which means it pulls very well without any drama. It also means at wot I have about 3psi at 3000rpm, about 5psi at 4000rpm, peaking at 7psi at 5000rpm. Which makes it pretty nippy imo.
The 12:1 fmu and skyline fuel pump have also taken to the increase well. Before at 4000rpm the afr would rise to 16:1 and continue to go up to 18:1 at 5000rpm, now i still have the 4000rpm lean out but at about 5000rpm the afr start to drop back down to 14:1. This means I've been pushing it to the limiter in 1st and 2nd gear, which I've noticed comes in way too early and there's loads of drama here Once I've got wider tyres on and I can lay the power down earlier I'm certain I can beat my target of halfing the stock 1.0litre's 0-60mph time of 16seconds.
Still running at 13:1 while off boost though, with 11:1 under light load where it bogs down. That's before the MTX-L's narrowband signal comes on after about 5 warm miles, or 10 cold ones, where it then goes to about 14.5:1 and 13:1 under light load, which runs sweet.
Only real negative I have now is that there's an oil leak from around the sump area:
I'm unsure where it's coming from, I suspect it's the sump/block seal. I've lost about 1/2 litre over 80miles, topped it back up, but 50miles later I saw it smoking and turned out I'd lost another 1/2 litre.
running:
5mins later, off:
During those last 50miles, I was involved in an accident too. Someone pulled out to go down a road just a couple of meters infront of me, next to no time to react. He said he didn't see me as his windscreen was dirty, admitted it was his fault, and seemed sincere. Took it to a garage to have the amount of work required to fix quoted, I was hoping for this some in cash as it should be simple to replace parts from scrappy. But it got booked in and paid for, ah well. I don't think the guy had valid insurence either as the price to get it fixed which included wing, headlight, bumper and front panel, (no headlight protector or bonnet included either, which also got damaged) came to £480
Just got it back today. Amazed at how little you get for your money, if I had paid I'd not be happy. New front panel, is actually the old one just bent back a little, enough for the headlight to be bolted to, but it pulls the headlight back in and down, with the thumbscrew screwed all the way in to counteract it. New front bumper is actually the old one with a bit of filler and half spray job. New headlight, is actually second hand and collects moisture. New wing is new but the gaps around it are bigger than I remember lol. But fook it, it's back on the road, whole scenario could have gone alot worse. Also don't like how the seat and all the mirrors have been moved, I think someone's been out for a cheeky spin in it, could have at least given me thier opinion
A bead of sealent between the sump/block I used as a temp fix for the oil leak seems to be working ok. I still have the majority of the oil from the second topup in it. And it doesn't appear to be smoking anymore. But this is new headgasket (?) holding up well under low boost though but I daren't push it now.
Extended the breather pipe to the front vent, should help with checking for smoke while in use, at a stand still anyway.
I've also noticed a flapping/tapping noise from under the bonnet while cruising, sometimes it dissapears when I close the throttle, sometimes it doesn't. I was praying that it was nothing internal, under inspection it could be an exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold.
The engine's moving about a fair bit, may have a go at making some firmer bushes with polyurethane. Should improve gear changes and on/off throttle which sounds good.
Before:
The 12:1 fmu and skyline fuel pump have also taken to the increase well. Before at 4000rpm the afr would rise to 16:1 and continue to go up to 18:1 at 5000rpm, now i still have the 4000rpm lean out but at about 5000rpm the afr start to drop back down to 14:1. This means I've been pushing it to the limiter in 1st and 2nd gear, which I've noticed comes in way too early and there's loads of drama here
Once I've got wider tyres on and I can lay the power down earlier I'm certain I can beat my target of halfing the stock 1.0litre's 0-60mph time of 16seconds.
Still running at 13:1 while off boost though, with 11:1 under light load where it bogs down. That's before the MTX-L's narrowband signal comes on after about 5 warm miles, or 10 cold ones, where it then goes to about 14.5:1 and 13:1 under light load, which runs sweet.
Only real negative I have now is that there's an oil leak from around the sump area:
I'm unsure where it's coming from, I suspect it's the sump/block seal. I've lost about 1/2 litre over 80miles, topped it back up, but 50miles later I saw it smoking and turned out I'd lost another 1/2 litre.
running:
5mins later, off:
During those last 50miles, I was involved in an accident too. Someone pulled out to go down a road just a couple of meters infront of me, next to no time to react. He said he didn't see me as his windscreen was dirty, admitted it was his fault, and seemed sincere. Took it to a garage to have the amount of work required to fix quoted, I was hoping for this some in cash as it should be simple to replace parts from scrappy. But it got booked in and paid for, ah well. I don't think the guy had valid insurence either as the price to get it fixed which included wing, headlight, bumper and front panel, (no headlight protector or bonnet included either, which also got damaged) came to £480
Just got it back today. Amazed at how little you get for your money, if I had paid I'd not be happy. New front panel, is actually the old one just bent back a little, enough for the headlight to be bolted to, but it pulls the headlight back in and down, with the thumbscrew screwed all the way in to counteract it. New front bumper is actually the old one with a bit of filler and half spray job. New headlight, is actually second hand and collects moisture. New wing is new but the gaps around it are bigger than I remember lol. But fook it, it's back on the road, whole scenario could have gone alot worse. Also don't like how the seat and all the mirrors have been moved, I think someone's been out for a cheeky spin in it, could have at least given me thier opinion
A bead of sealent between the sump/block I used as a temp fix for the oil leak seems to be working ok. I still have the majority of the oil from the second topup in it. And it doesn't appear to be smoking anymore. But this is new
headgasket (?) holding up well under low boost though but I daren't push it now.
Extended the breather pipe to the front vent, should help with checking for smoke while in use, at a stand still anyway.
I've also noticed a flapping/tapping noise from under the bonnet while cruising, sometimes it dissapears when I close the throttle, sometimes it doesn't. I was praying that it was nothing internal, under inspection it could be an exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold.
The engine's moving about a fair bit, may have a go at making some firmer bushes with polyurethane. Should improve gear changes and on/off throttle which sounds good.
Before:
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
did you find it easy to fit the heater controls at the bottom of the centre console?, i did this today and found it was a right pita and the dial for chosing where the air is vented was causing problems so itss just sat sticking out the top of the dash atmit pulls quite well. 0-60mph through the gears is about 12 seconds with just 1psi, which isn't bad, I think. Acceleration above 50mph is a lot better now too. It'll be fairly rapid at high rpm once I have this fuelling sorted and get wider tyres to stop the wheelspin in 1st n 2nd gears.
But you've really got to be in the right gear at the time, otherwise your off boost and down on power. Plan's to put on a 1mm skimmed port n polished head, which should see a nice gain on and off boost.
Would really like to compare it against a 1.3 with a similar spec on a 1/4 mile.
Got my dials in the dash now. Conveniently placed imo, not too distracting but easily readable while not looking out of place.
Plugged the MTX-L's narrowband wire to the ecu, which has raised the afr to about 15/16:1 on cruise, but doesn't quite close loop like it should. Currently returning approx 400miles a tank, not too bad.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
Yeah it's a pain, lot's of wires behind there due to speakers, central locking and now 3 gauges. I had to disconnect that cable too.
It's not staying where it is though, I'll try and put it in the glovebox or under the steering wheel on that shelf, but not all the cables or wires reach. Another option is to relocate the headunit and fit the heater control panel there instead.
OP
OP
euro_micra
Matt :)
It's been a while hasn't it. So I thought I'd update.
Since the last update I must have only done 400 miles. It leaked like mad and was starting to smoke on boost when cold. It still ran great when warmed up. Just top up with oil after every trip and keep it below 2psi for the first 5 miles. When warmed up it was hitting 8000rpm with 8psi with ease, I really think these cams are suited for 7-9000rpm. 0-60mph I estimated at 7-8 seconds, but no clear video, and that was with stock weight + more. 60-100mph was still poor so it's not going to set any 1/4mile records as it is.
But I couldn't keep driving it the 50mile round trip to work and back everyday while it leaked and smoked so much. So I took it of the road and bought myself a Ford Puma 1.7 while I replace this engine and shed some weight.
The Puma
125bhp and 1050kg (IIRC) so not quite as nippy as the Micra but pulls better at low revs.
Unfortunately I didn't get much time to work on the Micra as I then had to move house and I needed to keep it running. Then due to a miserable winter and a rather bleak spring and building a shed for storage. I've only now just got around to it. First thing is to remove this engine. With just 25psi compression in all cylinders I suspect the ringlands have gone Once a new engine is sought and fitted I've then got to get it roadworthy and MOT'd, which means, new battery, new exhaust and new brakes. THEN the fun can start again.
Getting ready to remove the engine.
Since the last update I must have only done 400 miles. It leaked like mad and was starting to smoke on boost when cold. It still ran great when warmed up. Just top up with oil after every trip and keep it below 2psi for the first 5 miles. When warmed up it was hitting 8000rpm with 8psi with ease, I really think these cams are suited for 7-9000rpm. 0-60mph I estimated at 7-8 seconds, but no clear video, and that was with stock weight + more. 60-100mph was still poor so it's not going to set any 1/4mile records as it is.
But I couldn't keep driving it the 50mile round trip to work and back everyday while it leaked and smoked so much. So I took it of the road and bought myself a Ford Puma 1.7 while I replace this engine and shed some weight.
The Puma
125bhp and 1050kg (IIRC) so not quite as nippy as the Micra but pulls better at low revs.
Unfortunately I didn't get much time to work on the Micra as I then had to move house and I needed to keep it running. Then due to a miserable winter and a rather bleak spring and building a shed for storage. I've only now just got around to it. First thing is to remove this engine. With just 25psi compression in all cylinders I suspect the ringlands have gone
Once a new engine is sought and fitted I've then got to get it roadworthy and MOT'd, which means, new battery, new exhaust and new brakes. THEN the fun can start again.Getting ready to remove the engine.
Bit of an old thread , but I just wanted to know if you had any problems with your front coilovers, running them with the micra top mounts ? Cheers
