micra k11 1.3 super s

[pritz]

i can drive my micra for like 20-30mins and then the car will cut off and wont start, once the car has completely cooled down it will start again mostly the next day. I have already changed the throttle body and distributor still no luck


can anyone help thanks

 

[andy]

after the 20-30 mins then its cut out ,does it just turn over normal and not firing

 

[pritz]

it turns over and tries to start but it doesnt start

 

[andy]

whats the chances the t/b could be a duff aswell............or the dizzy... when it does run whats it like

 

[gtsnissanb]

sounds like the ignition module in the dizzy mate
or knackard solder (dry joint) on the main relay for the ignition

 

[pritz]

its runs fine when its working then it cuts out, is the ignition module in the dizzy? because ive change the whole distributor not just the cap

 

[andy]

am no expert but i would try and get a known working t/b and see if that makes a difference. if it was the dizzy at fault it wouldnt start at all would it?

( am just guessing here ) but!!! what about the ignition coil on the dizzy if that was at fault would give the same symtems

 

[gtsnissanb]

actually the reason i said the two parts i did was because these two both operate completely normal until they get a bit hot then they start to malfunction causing missfiring then spluttering then death! usually after its all cooled down again theyll work for a little while again.
ignition module is inside the dizzy on most cars, ive changed 100s on civics of old, and again speaking from civic experience the relay i talk of is alway close to the ignition, on a civic its bolted on the right hand side of the drivers footwell just above the carpet, itll have one plug and be about the size of a celerbrations dairy milk:grinning:
the reason the heat plays a part is the solder joins get dry and if you look carefully youll see a very light circle in the solder this is a dry joint and once the right amount of heat gets to it, it will separate breaking the circuit. all you have to do is get a soldering iron make the solder go runny again then let is harden dada done. i believe there is a control unit on the side of the t/b on a k11? the solders may have gone off in there check it out and let us know

 

[pritz]

before replacnig the throttle body i resoldered it............

 

[Guy]

Agree, symptoms are classic dry joint symptoms. Question is where?

 

[frank]

4 posts nominating t/b or dizzy and the original post says he already changed them both fwn
really you need to check if there,s a spark or try a drop of fuel down the t/b when is conks out pritz

 

[pritz]

ok frank ill give that a go and let you know how it goes

 

[gtsnissanb]

4 posts nominating t/b or dizzy and the original post says he already changed them both fwn
really you need to check if there,s a spark or try a drop of fuel down the t/b when is conks out pritz

Changed for what? He doesn't say new ones chances are he's bought knackard 2nd hand parts

 

[pritz]

ive got 2 micras and ive taken parts off a running micra

 

[gtsnissanb]

well in that case see if theres a main relay, thats gotta be the issue or find the fuel pump relay its the same thing but sometimes called different in different cars check the solders on that

 

[gtsnissanb]

another thing to check is the fuel pump its self, nissans are shocking for #### pumps my s14 has a walbro fitted as mine kept cutting out dues to the origional one giving up the ghost! in fact when tuning a 200sx the first thing they say to change before you consider anything is the pump. next time it does it give the pump houseing a smack see if it kicks up (not scientific but ive solved many issue with the old magic smack)