HAWK engine management

Davey C

Ex. Club Member
Club Member
this was fitted previously to a Turbo K11 out in Oz.

All disks and harnesses included...


offers...

pics to follow (when the msc stops timing out)
 
pics,

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not sure price wise, make me an offer
 
is it stand alone or piggy... and you say it was fitted to a turbo micra..... the same setup as mine?
 
its a standalone, you could use the second inline fuel pump, SR20 injectors that you already have and then the adjustable fuel reg and you would be running the exact same fuel system as the turbo micra in Oz. bonus would be that you have the map on there ready and he was running std internals also. Hell you could get the GT25 and it would be nigh on the same setup. green turbo k11 on ciscos site ;)
 
ok i need this shifted as ive just moved house and have no storage space, ANY serious offers accepted...
 
£100? this will suit both forced induction and N/A comes with all software disks, loom and ECU
 
well i was really hoping for 100 in my pocket but if no one else offers any more then yeah ill do it 100 posted.
 
Thanks mate:D
just managed to install the softwear onto my XP laptop so thats good.
just gotta learn how to use it now:D all part of the fun. went through the wireing loom and labled all the wires so all i need is a base map to start from realy, as the turbo one that is probably still on there is no good. have read though the manual, its really quite explanitary, have learnt loads already.
anyway, thank you once again mate, and for the fpr.
Ed
 
doubt you would find a basemap for the HAWK system as it's nout used on the micra much.

If you are going to do this yourself you should buy a wideband, egt gauge and a make a set of detcans. If you try this without atleast a wideband and det can it's not gonna be pretty.
 
doubt you would find a basemap for the HAWK system as it's nout used on the micra much.

If you are going to do this yourself you should buy a wideband, egt gauge and a make a set of detcans. If you try this without atleast a wideband and det can it's not gonna be pretty.

wideband is the plan. i'v done a surch on 'det cans' i understand the priciple, seems that people make their own (a bit like the cup and string idea), what would you propose? EGT gauage i didnt think about, will look into that.
im a begginner, but i will learn (ordered a couple of books off amazon today so they should arive soon hopfuly.

this is wideband compatable right? iv just checked the wiring diagram for it again and it only has one wire going to the 'oxygen sensor'. could this mean that it is just narrow band compatable?
im beggining to feel a bit like i have bitten off more than i can chew, guess it is just part of the learning prossess:D

i have found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=140284897873

i dont need the gauge part right? seems quite cheap?

sorry if im being a pain,
Ed
 
oh i see, so the signal still only comes trough one wire? just a voltage thing. think i will get that one off ebay then.
thanks for the help mate.

i think so, but it may well be a different voltage (1-5v ?) as opposed to the stock 0-1v
 
thats a wideband sensor, won't work with the stock setup. Needs a wideband controller as well.

look at J.A.W fro a cheap one
 
thats a wideband sensor, won't work with the stock setup. Needs a wideband controller as well.

look at J.A.W fro a cheap one

sorry mate, im a bit lost, so... i baught that sensor from ebay, did i get the wrong thing? do i need somthing else for it to work with the engine management system?
sorry if im asking simple seeming questions, i guess everyone has to learn from the beggining at some point. (will be getting those books through soon so hopfuly my questions will be getting more knowlageable)

as for egt, what would you suggest?
 
ed

with it being a stand-alone ecu, i would have thought it was designed for a wideband lambda

thats what i would have thought, maybe thats what he meant by it wouldnt work with a 'stock setup'. just a bit confused is all. i cant wait for the books to arrive so i can stop sounding like such a noob. (god, i havent used the word noob since i stoped playing CS about 4 years ago:D)
 
ed

you,ll suss it dude ;), ask on cisco au if any of those guys have used a hawk ecu, or if there,s any updated/more user friendly software or a basemap that you could copy and paste :)
 
ed

you,ll suss it dude ;), ask on cisco au if any of those guys have used a hawk ecu, or if there,s any updated/more user friendly software or a basemap that you could copy and paste :)

:D great idea, i didnt think of that. will do that when i get a chance. a basemap would be a massive help i think.
thank you frank

:D great idea, i didnt think of that. will do that when i get a chance. a basemap would be a massive help i think.
thank you frank

posted up on there, are you frank2 by any chance?
 
I thought you were using it for the stock ecu, If the hawk ecu has a built in wideband controller then fair enough it will work but if it doesn't then a controller is needed.
 
I thought you were using it for the stock ecu, If the hawk ecu has a built in wideband controller then fair enough it will work but if it doesn't then a controller is needed.

i would guess it does, but if not then i will cross that bridge when i come to it.
how important is an EGT? could you outline what it could be used for (i know what it does, but why is it so nessasary?) also, could you recormmend one? most of the ones on ebay look a bit cheap and crap to me.

Noddie
 
the egt allows you to see whats going on the engine, too much ignition will cause it get hot and you would be able to tell from excessive heat and as frank says too lean will make it hot as well.

It's not something that is required but will add safety for you but the a/f meter is needed.
 
I don't bother with EGT even on 400bhp + cars. On its own it means nothing. There is only one way you can tune a Micra properly and that's on a dyno. You can get 80% there on the road but will never get it spot on. They don't produce enough power to even knock, unless you REALLY REALLY fire the ignition too early, where the engine tries to turn the wrong way.... You will just get a loss of power so even det cans on a NA K11 are pointless 99% of the time.
 
thats true actually, I used knock sensors hooked to filter and amp and i never got no knock even at a 1.2 bar lol (faulty actuator)

Ed's advice is spot on, i was just being overcautious as it's my daily car and need it to get to uni lol.
 
Oh they will knock at 5psi of boost. I have done that deliberately before just to see how they respond.
 
My fuel was sorted somewhat as i had mapped upto 1 abr for safety via interpolation which somewhat covered me lol Got really scared and disconnect the actuator and sofrted the prob out.
 
ok, thanks for the help guys.
sure there will be more questions soon, but hopefuly the books i ordered will be here in a few days.
 
ok, my latest problem...
in the micra loom there are two wires that i dont know what to do with, one is a wire that goes to the 'base' of the power transistor and has a resistor inline. and one goes strait to the coil. what i want to know is on the Hawk diagram there is only one wire that comes out of the ecu to the coil 'ignition output' and i wonder which of the two wire (above) it is? and what i should do about the other wire.
i hope that makes sense.

also, do i have to mod the dizzy disc?

and what should i do about the wire that goes to the power steering oil pressure switch?

this is no small task Ed, fair play to you for doing it for £200, i guess you can do it in a day or so?

Ed
 
ed

i would guess that the transistor/resistor wire is the signal and the other coil wire needs to be a 12v feed.
i would guess, leave the disc, but will it be 1 signal per 2 crank revs ? and maybe the p/s switch is input for the idle control ?
 
ed

i would guess that the transistor/resistor wire is the signal and the other coil wire needs to be a 12v feed.
i would guess, leave the disc, but will it be 1 signal per 2 crank revs ? and maybe the p/s switch is input for the idle control ?

there are two wires that go to the coil, one is deffinately a 12v feed but its the other one that im not sure about.

ok, will leave the disc for now.

thats what i thought about the p/s switch, but there is no input in the Hawk, for idle control all it has is stepper a1 a2 b1 and b2, and i have no idea where to put them as there is only two wires going to the nissan idle control valve.
 
well, the nissan diagram shows two different iacv's, but in the loom i took out of my spare micra the plug only had the wires to one valve, perhaps i should check and see if my car has wires for both.

are the 1 and 2 posistive and negative and the ecu reverses the polarity to open and close the valve? or is that not how iacv's work?
 
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