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Dattosan Machi Suzuki twincam 4wd project pg22
- Thread starter Machi san
- Start date
Cheers scott, I agree that it was probably too cold. Oh well, luckily its only an engine bay and it looks a lot better than it did with the white front corner and the surface rust 
Karl, ill go and look in my inbox. Its possible that I read a pm whilst busy or in the pub ect and then forgot. I do appologise and ill reply asap.
Cheers
Kev
Karl, ill go and look in my inbox. Its possible that I read a pm whilst busy or in the pub ect and then forgot. I do appologise and ill reply asap.
Cheers
Kev
Last night I went to the scrapyard to find out where I went wrong with the mounts for the gearbox. All sorted now
I also managed to clean and paint the brake servo, with matt black paint. Then I refitted that and the cleaned up master cylinder. I also tightened up all the brake lines whilst I was there.
I cleaned and partially painted, then refitted the windsreen wiper motor.
I also cleaned and painted the steering rack and brackets. I also refitted that but I don't know whether to fit new gaiter or not. It maybe going a bit far considering they are fine apart from looking old and skanky
Hopefully will get a lot more of it back together this evening
I also managed to clean and paint the brake servo, with matt black paint. Then I refitted that and the cleaned up master cylinder. I also tightened up all the brake lines whilst I was there.
I cleaned and partially painted, then refitted the windsreen wiper motor.
I also cleaned and painted the steering rack and brackets. I also refitted that but I don't know whether to fit new gaiter or not. It maybe going a bit far considering they are fine apart from looking old and skanky
Hopefully will get a lot more of it back together this evening
Fitted the 5speed this lunch time
Got new braided earth straps
Started to tuck loom along its new route. This is the hole where the aerial cable come through, I made it bigger lol the wires that you can see need to be fed back through the grommet
This plug goes to wiper motor but needs to be on other ssside of the grommet and fed through original hole
This is the coil and starter wiring, this also needs to be on the other side of the grommet
Back into bay behind headlight. Some wires will need extending
Loom fits nicely into slam panel
And needs p-clipping upto the chassis rail. All this will be above the arch liner and about 3-4inches away from the tyre
This last bit of loom is for the battery, this will hide inside a battery box with the battery
Got new braided earth straps
Started to tuck loom along its new route. This is the hole where the aerial cable come through, I made it bigger lol the wires that you can see need to be fed back through the grommet
This plug goes to wiper motor but needs to be on other ssside of the grommet and fed through original hole
This is the coil and starter wiring, this also needs to be on the other side of the grommet
Back into bay behind headlight. Some wires will need extending
Loom fits nicely into slam panel
And needs p-clipping upto the chassis rail. All this will be above the arch liner and about 3-4inches away from the tyre
This last bit of loom is for the battery, this will hide inside a battery box with the battery
Haha yes it will be very loud for sure
The plan is too get it running and then when I know how loud it is, I will be able to get a middle silencer to suit.
I can fit a huge silencer if need be, as long as it doesn't cause issues with ground clearance. My manifold downpipes are approx 30-40mm from the ground lol
The plan is too get it running and then when I know how loud it is, I will be able to get a middle silencer to suit.
I can fit a huge silencer if need be, as long as it doesn't cause issues with ground clearance. My manifold downpipes are approx 30-40mm from the ground
lolBut it sound bloody badass! Rude as ####! But too loud
Almost too loud to film you may want to lower your volume first of all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt7uPnT-D3Y&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Almost too loud to film
you may want to lower your volume first of all.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt7uPnT-D3Y&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Its a shame every car I own missfires like ####
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DHrLcAfdKI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Gonna give it too tipton I think and pay them to sort it out. Iam so desperate for a car on the road now and I just have zero time until next month. I gotta fix the stupid trailer and drift car for a drift event in 2 weeks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DHrLcAfdKI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Gonna give it too tipton I think and pay them to sort it out. Iam so desperate for a car on the road now and I just have zero time until next month. I gotta fix the stupid trailer and drift car for a drift event in 2 weeks!
thats running on 2 aint it kev
After a minute of running like that all the primaries are too hot to touch. But I can tell from the colour of the primaries that 1 and 2 are getting hotter than 3 and maybe 4.
Do you not think it sounds like 4 cylinders when I rev it up higher in the revs? Too me it sounds like it picks up on all 4 cylinders when revved!!
Ill get a cooling system on there and see if I can get it too idle.
As soon as the revs drop below around 2-2.5k it want to die, it'll only keep running if the revs are above about 2.5k.
Ill try pulling 1 lead at a time and see what happens, ill also read the spark plug colours tomorrow!
Thanks frank
And yes alleks a small amount of progress and you were correct! Its LOUD!
Nah runs fine now.
Rings were sticky and dry, they weren't sealing. I bought the engine with no manifolds on it
I have had this before on other engines. Although in the past they have been fine for a little while, but the always tend to not last very long due to corrosion inside.
No bother though because iam building a high compression motor with worked head and cams
Rings were sticky and dry, they weren't sealing. I bought the engine with no manifolds on it
I have had this before on other engines. Although in the past they have been fine for a little while, but the always tend to not last very long due to corrosion inside.
No bother though because iam building a high compression motor with worked head and cams
i had the same problem with my sunny gti i bought a sr20 from a primera gt that had been stood for a while soon as i fired it up it sounded rough as hell i did the same as you chucked some oil down the plug holes and it ran sweet (Y) god yours sounds evil when you get the revs up i bet it shifts well
ok, I always thought that oil is just a temporary solution, but if you say, that this will smoothen (right word? I don'T know
It could lose compression again, but we ran it for quite a while and I would have thought all the oil would burn away in that time.
I don't think the bores or rings are damaged! Just dry and not working as they should. The ring groove can get clogged and the ring can stick in.
Ill test it and get some miles on the engine. There is no smoke at all and there are no rattles ect. Sounds real good
Cool that's a weight off my shoulders, hopefully it'll be all good.
I hope its as fast as it sounds
ill drive it tonight or tomorrow, depends if I can find the driveshaft nuts! I may need to go scrappy 
One of the carbs is flooding now!
The regulator is set at the lowest setting so iam not sure what else to do at this stage. I think that'll be a job for the rolling road, it miss fires on 1 and 2 because of the flooding carb.
Got a couple jobs done tonight. Connected the front brakelines and bled the brakes. Fitted a longer bolt into the rear mount. Also started to fit a radiator.
Still need to do a few more little jobs before I can test the beast
The regulator is set at the lowest setting so iam not sure what else to do at this stage. I think that'll be a job for the rolling road, it miss fires on 1 and 2 because of the flooding carb.
Got a couple jobs done tonight. Connected the front brakelines and bled the brakes. Fitted a longer bolt into the rear mount. Also started to fit a radiator.
Still need to do a few more little jobs before I can test the beast
frank
Club Member
we had to fit a return pipe to our karts to stop the carbs flooding kev (with a 1mm restrictor inside the return pipe)
It does it even with the fuel pump disconnected frank! It runs missfires and the first carb until its about to run out of fuel. Then it'll run ok for a couple seconds, then run out of fuel.
To be honest, this is all beyond me! I wish I had carried out the mods to run injection, infact, I am thinking about fitting the injection back on. Iam desperate for a car now because iam about to move house, this has tax, mot and insurance and it won't bloody run.
I may need to trade this car for one that works if I don't have a solution soon
To be honest, this is all beyond me! I wish I had carried out the mods to run injection, infact, I am thinking about fitting the injection back on. Iam desperate for a car now because iam about to move house, this has tax, mot and insurance and it won't bloody run.
I may need to trade this car for one that works if I don't have a solution soon
Me an a mate gonna slap original engine back ii tonight. Ill then slowly build up an injection engine I think so that it'll be economic and reliable.
This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on
Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on
Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
Me an a mate gonna slap original engine back ii tonight. Ill then slowly build up an injection engine I think so that it'll be economic and reliable.
This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on
Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
This has just gone on too long, I either need to make this work reliably or I need to exchange it for something else. Maybe ill just get a k11 and put my coilies and bandies on
Infact anyone on here up for a swap?
Thanks for the encouragement allekks
I spoke to another local rolling road garage yesterday afternoon. They're hourly rate is much more expensive than my usual place. I got talking to the lad on the phone, who turned out to be the apprentice, he got excited and offered to come over for an hour and help me diagnose the problem before I spend any money on the rolling road.
He convinced me not to book it in anywhere and not to remove the engine or carbs.
He is certain that the carbs are fine and the ignition is all good also.
He is 95% convinced that it is drawing in air in the first carb or manifold!! I will check tonight when I get some ether to spray around.
It makes sense though because its lean as #### on cylinders 1 and 2 and won't idle below 2500rpm!
I let you know how we get on tonight, but I have a back up car on the cards. Its a corsa sri that I drove for a year lol
I spoke to another local rolling road garage yesterday afternoon. They're hourly rate is much more expensive than my usual place. I got talking to the lad on the phone, who turned out to be the apprentice, he got excited and offered to come over for an hour and help me diagnose the problem before I spend any money on the rolling road.
He convinced me not to book it in anywhere and not to remove the engine or carbs.
He is certain that the carbs are fine and the ignition is all good also.
He is 95% convinced that it is drawing in air in the first carb or manifold!! I will check tonight when I get some ether to spray around.
It makes sense though because its lean as #### on cylinders 1 and 2 and won't idle below 2500rpm!
I let you know how we get on tonight, but I have a back up car on the cards. Its a corsa sri that I drove for a year lol
I took the inlet and carbs off. Cleaned up flanges and resealed with sealant instead of gaskets.
Put it back together and now instead of spark plugs 1 and 2 coming out blue and 3 and 4 being sooty. Its now opposite, 1 and 2 are sooty and WET and 3 and 4 are now blue.
It runs better but still misses on idle.
And the manifold is still drawing air in around some of the welded areas. Tonight I will attempt to seal some of the pourous welds but ultimately I think I need to fabricate a new inlet manifold
And also I think iam gonna buy myself a k11 to nip about in for now
Put it back together and now instead of spark plugs 1 and 2 coming out blue and 3 and 4 being sooty. Its now opposite, 1 and 2 are sooty and WET and 3 and 4 are now blue.
It runs better but still misses on idle.
And the manifold is still drawing air in around some of the welded areas. Tonight I will attempt to seal some of the pourous welds but ultimately I think I need to fabricate a new inlet manifold
And also I think iam gonna buy myself a k11 to nip about in for now
Yep they are sealed fine, I double checked that last night.
The whole lot has been bolted to the engine since it arrived! I guess it could have got knocked during transit but its unlikely.
The flange does need a skim but I thought it looked like it would be fine with some sealant.
I did have a gasket but it was worse, I ditched it in favour of sealant.
I have never ever ever had this much trouble with air leaks, that's why I didn't expect it to be an air leak.
I won't bother sealing the welds if they are 100% ok
Cheers
Kev
Iam trying to raise the cash I need to isnsure my 200sx driftcar, I want to drive it on the road again now, especially now its summer
So this is now being broken down! Let me know if you have your eye on anything in particular I may keep the shell and do something with it in a few years, tbh not sure if its worth keeping
Cheers dudes
Kev
So this is now being broken down! Let me know if you have your eye on anything in particular
I may keep the shell and do something with it in a few years, tbh not sure if its worth keeping Cheers dudes
Kev
Dont give up yet! Could you not try a pressure test on the inlet manifold once its bolted up (make up some kind of thing to sit where the carb is which you can pressureise? If you dont fancy welding it im sure i could make you something simple, just a blanked off tube the same OD of the carb, with a nipple wended onto it to put a pipe over or something.
If the problem has switch from 1&2 to 3&4, could it be the manifold is bowed so it depends on what order you bolt it up in? also, could it be an irregular fuel supply to the carbs?
Doesnt sound like a massive problem to me... stick at it mate, your have quite a car if you can get it running!!
If the problem has switch from 1&2 to 3&4, could it be the manifold is bowed so it depends on what order you bolt it up in? also, could it be an irregular fuel supply to the carbs?
Doesnt sound like a massive problem to me... stick at it mate, your have quite a car if you can get it running!!
My sisters boyfriend works for a rolling road. He told me to leave the engine and carbs alone so he could have a proper look. I finished all the other jobs that needed doing.
He found that the manny flange was a little squiffy, had a couple lows and highs. I skimmed it back up at work. He said he found a leak on the carb to manifold gasket on the carb that wasn't working.
He also decided that the idle jets were too small they are 40's. He had to wind the mixture screws all the way out (8 turns) and then it started to almost work. He is bringing me some 50's tonight and he is about 90% confident that'll cure it. It looks like the mains were blocked up a little also.
This miss is only at idle now
I drove the car forward and backwards and its lively but the clutch slips ALOT!
I fitted a new blueprint cluch yesterday but didn't quite get everything back together for a test, just got to fit rear mount and one hub/driveshaft assembly.
I will most probably take it out on the road tonight lol
FRANK if you read this, or anyone else for that matter! Can you comment on a good spark gap for cg13 on carbs? It has standard size/temp plugs!
FOR ANYONE WITH WEBERS. Did you find that the pedla doesn't travel far enough for full throttle? I just cut the bulge off the floor to fix the problem.
Has anyone found that the clutch hits the flywheels bolts when its fairly worn out?
Have I got the correct coil? I have preface coil and facelift dizzy! The spark looks fairly weak and not that blue!
Cheers
Kev
He found that the manny flange was a little squiffy, had a couple lows and highs. I skimmed it back up at work. He said he found a leak on the carb to manifold gasket on the carb that wasn't working.
He also decided that the idle jets were too small they are 40's. He had to wind the mixture screws all the way out (8 turns) and then it started to almost work. He is bringing me some 50's tonight and he is about 90% confident that'll cure it. It looks like the mains were blocked up a little also.
This miss is only at idle now
I drove the car forward and backwards and its lively but the clutch slips ALOT!
I fitted a new blueprint cluch yesterday but didn't quite get everything back together for a test, just got to fit rear mount and one hub/driveshaft assembly.
I will most probably take it out on the road tonight lol
FRANK if you read this, or anyone else for that matter! Can you comment on a good spark gap for cg13 on carbs? It has standard size/temp plugs!
FOR ANYONE WITH WEBERS. Did you find that the pedla doesn't travel far enough for full throttle? I just cut the bulge off the floor to fix the problem.
Has anyone found that the clutch hits the flywheels bolts when its fairly worn out?
Have I got the correct coil? I have preface coil and facelift dizzy! The spark looks fairly weak and not that blue!
Cheers
Kev
