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Dattosan Machi Suzuki twincam 4wd project pg22

aLLeKs said:
Were do you all get always the stickers?
I am searching for such stickers, I would even import them from UK :D

I like the one on your hood soo much
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I get most of my stickers from:

Www.touge.co.uk

Www.precisiondriftclothing.com

And the jdm garage stickers (is actually 2 stickers :) ) are from my mates garage. He would probably send you some if you ask him.

Www.jdmgarageuk.com

Or I could get some from him and post them over too you, he has some nice designs for his super forma brand also ;)

Some of the stickers I have collected over a long period of time :)
 
Hi mate your inbox is full, below is my reply

"yes i put the k11 multi v pully on the k10 altenator, luckily my engine was a non pas engine so the belts were ok, if yours is a pas engine id advise getting the non pas belts there only a few quid.

my altenator lined up with the proper altenator pully on the engine

hope this helps? scott"
 
Thanks scott,

Do you think there is a diference between pas and non pas alternator bracket. My engine has the bottom pully with seperate drive for the alternator :)

I will be trying to do the entire swap in a day or two!

Pretty much sorted an exhaust manifold. Its a tubular honda turbo manifold, port spacing is 90-80-90 so I only really need to cut the 2 outer runners and tweak them inwards :) I also have an xr2 exhaust system, as well as mini and corsa systems that I can cut up. I think I may use the bike can if I can make it less restrictive.

I may have too remove the front anti roll bar because it is very close to the ground and also very close to the chassis with the car as low as it is now :(

I seriously can't wait to get the engine fitted and rolling roaded
 
Yesterday I got all the front lights wired up and made sure everything connected is working.

Washer bottle all works ect apart from being empty. Driverside sidelight and bumper indicator don't work because the guy who welded the new frontend on cut the wiring and scrapped it with the old front panel grr so I need to make a new section of loom or retreive the peice I need from a breaker.

The headlights just flicker and make the relay click, I have removed the relay and cleaned it. I have also disconnected all the plugs and gave them a clean, it all appears fine, yet the headlights just don't work on dip. Hopefully they will come back to life.

I started making the exhuast manifold as I have written above.

Collected lots of exhaust systems for making the new system.

Sent money for twin 36 dcnf conversion.

I also started to strip all the rubbish off of the cg13, that I won't be needing. The inlet was a pig to remove but came off fairly easy in the end. Got rid of all the loom brackers and clips.

Washed it all down with thinners.

Fitted nismo oil cap.

I still need to take the gearbox back off so that it can be cleaned and painted. Also need to shave the heads off of the flywheel bolts as they are to long.


Is there any tell tale signs that I can use to make sure I have the correct gearbox? I didn't have to drill out any holes and it bolted straight on. The front gearbox mount only lines up on 2 of the 3 holes also. Apart from that it all looks good imo :)
 
Thanks for the info about the stickers :)
I would like to get a JDM Garage sticker, I like the design and the site is awesome :D I would die for the white ae86
 
aLLeKs said:
Thanks for the info about the stickers :)
I would like to get a JDM Garage sticker, I like the design and the site is awesome :D I would die for the white ae86
Click to expand...

Ill get you some stickers qand send them to you :D

They have some amaqzing cars down there, I just bought an r32 from them that has a 350hp sr20det and I also built my 300hp rb25 200sx down in thyre garage :D
 
In the pic below there is a breather in the cam cover. Where do I need to connect this to? The inlet or a catch tank? There is another breather at the other end of the covers which ill connect to a catch tank for sure. When I disconnected the same breather on my 200sx it wouldn't run correct!!

2011-02-05%2011.25.35.jpg


Here is the k10 ma10 mechanical dizzy that superls converted to fit the cg13 head and cam. Look forward to seeing how it performs on the 1300 16v engine. We will be able to see if springs and weights need altering when its on the rolling road

2011-02-05%2011.25.23.jpg
 
I managed to get a fair bit done this weekend.

Mk1 mx5 seats fitted and modded. I removed some foam from the base and the back to make them like bucket seats. Much more confy than they are standard and certainly a lot more comfy than micra seats.

Cleaned the engine more and primed the cam cover. Also removed some more bits of crap off of the engine.

I decided that I wanted to use the larger outer cv joints with the 1300cc k11 hubs and brakes. This means that the driveshafts need modding. I have cut them and made the sleeves up. Just need to weld them at work today. Once iam happy with the length, I will make fresh custom ones at work.

Iam making the shafts 15mm longer to account for the lowness and iam also planning to lengthen the lower arms by 10mm so that I don't need the front wheel spacers. Maybe I should make the shafts 20mm longer.

I took the arbs back off whilst I set the ride height, I don't want arb preload messing up my rear axle mods.

Adjusted front end so it is close to the ride I want, although its only 5-10mm off of the cut down bumpstops. Gonna have to get corsa or polo coilovers I think.

Cut the rear springs slightly to get the correct rideheight. It still needs to come down more but I need an arch roller and then ill take abit more off of the springs.

Found the perfect back box for it :D

I think that's it.

Pics to follow this evening :D
 
what id do if i was you, id get a non pas water pump belt, then you can loose the pas pump, and the other groove on the bottom pulley is for the alternator and lined up bang on if i remember correctly.
 
superls said:
what id do if i was you, id get a non pas water pump belt, then you can loose the pas pump, and the other groove on the bottom pulley is for the alternator and lined up bang on if i remember correctly.
Click to expand...

I will need to space out the water pump so that it lines up with the alternator. Or space the alternator different and change the engine mount.

Or just run 2 seperate belts one for alternator and one for water pump. I can make the ps pump into a tensioner with relative ease :)


EDIT: I need to take a better look, it maybe possible that the belt will miss the engine mount. Did you have to remove the mount to fit the belt?
 
Gearknob.

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Its too big and heavy, it changes gear for me lol

Iam gonna cut down the threaded section and also shorten the lever, then see what I think. But initially aim not too keen :(
 
New sidelight fitted

2011-02-10%2017.26.17.jpg


Iam going to put the indicator in here and ditch the ones in the bumper, I think. Need to see how it looks first.

Nylon sleeves to keep the coilover springs centralised when I jack the car up

2011-02-11%2007.53.22.jpg


Not entirely sure what material it is because its a ##### to machine. Just doesn't cut properly at all. Poor finish on the parts but they will serve they're purpose :)

Bonnet pins, the bonnet is so bent and stuff that the latch doesn't work. Also its very obviously bent because the corners stick up. So ill pin them down lol

2011-02-11%2007.53.43.jpg


The nuts with no flats on have been machined like that because they have to be welded into the car, I can't get to both sides of the panel that I want to fix them to. So ill weld these in and it should look fine :)
 
looking good how easy was it to fit the 5 seats? any modding required? might have to nick the ones in mine whilst its off the road lol
 
Thanks for the comments chaps.

Home brew for the win and the carbs will be on they're way soon, won't they? Scott

Boyracer the mx5 seats took abit of cutting and welding to fit. Below is a couple pics of the cut down k10 seat rails welded to the mx5 runners. Needs a lot more strength adding though because its not very strong at the mo :)

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2011-02-12%2014.47.49.jpg
 
Machi san said:
Thanks for the comments chaps.

Home brew for the win and the carbs will be on they're way soon, won't they? ScottBoyracer the mx5 seats took abit of cutting and welding to fit. Below is a couple pics of the cut down k10 seat rails welded to the mx5 runners. Needs a lot more strength adding though because its not very strong at the mo :)

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2011-02-12%2015.58.13.jpg


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2011-02-12%2014.47.49.jpg
Click to expand...

yes Kev they will, money cleared yesterday so will be on there way to you early this week :)
 
Although the longer they take getting here the more likely iam too respray the engine bay and fully tuck wiring and hide other stuff lol.

I think ill put the battery and washer bottle in the back somewhere. I also have my eye on ally radiators, civic ones look like a good size and shape. I have a kenlowe fan that ill use already :)

Iam putting carpet back in, I have a dirty tatty grey/bluey carpet but I think I may look for a black carpet.

I want to retrim the seat in grey cloth of some sort. Maybe I should look at hotrods and see what would look cool. Dark grey crushed velver lol.



Anyone who is reading this, I need advice for the colour to paint my wheels!!

They are aluminum silver with gold/redgold/copper metal flake mix. But they need repainting.

My thoughts are

Black
Silver
Grey to match rocker cover and door cards
Rusty
Purple
Blue centres to match car with rusty dishes

List goes on :D
 
Purple is a nice colour for wheels, but I think they will not fit to the blue car.
Silver is really classic, so nothing special
same with black.
I don't like the rusty look on wheels, on the car itself it looks always good :D but not on wheels.
I think I would go with grey, that will look awesome.
 
Yeah usually I use wurth seal and bond, which is proper hardcore like silkaflex and tiger seal.

However I had used just normal silicone sealant in the the mounts on the ma10 and had very decent results from it. I don't want them stupid hard, just a little harder. I think it helps if you can really pack the stuff in hard :)

My drift car has solid mounts allround lol pretty harsh on the road but ideal for skids :D
 
Got a zr manifold. Its another bit of internet mythology just like the golf coilies being a perfect fit for the micra lol

2011-02-14%2017.16.51.jpg


2011-02-14%2017.17.06.jpg


I think because it'll need A LOT of cutting and welding to make it work with the cg13, it is better to find an alternative. AGAIN!! Lol

Here's an xr2 four branch, ill have a measure up with it later and see if this is any better.
2011-02-14%2017.20.03.jpg


Worst scenario, civic manifold is very close to fitting, just not s great design because its for a turbo application :)
 
if you can weld, buy a flange off me, then go to your nrearest motor factor (not halfords) and order up some exhaust elbows, you only need 6, a bit of work later (my last one took 5 ish hours start to finish, inc cutting the flange) you will have a spanking new custom 4-2-1.

if your having trouble getting the elbows let me know, as both my local motor factors can get them for me at a good price.
 
Sent you pm scott :D

So a few more interesting pics. Although I have also come across more set backs :(

This is the engine bay when I packed up on sunday
2011-02-12%2014.46.13.jpg


Yesterday I went home for my 30min lunch break (I live right around the corner :))
And did this :)

2011-02-15%2013.12.20.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.12.27.jpg


Then today I went back for lunch again and did this

2011-02-15%2013.12.31.jpg


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Anyways set backs as follows.

Most of my yard is flooded including half my work shop, nothing damaged luckily but a pain in the ass when you have a lot to do.

And also the 5 speed box I got is no good :( the gear linkage is completly different as well as the mounts, they are also very different.

This means I now need to source the correct 5 speed or just use the stock 4 speed. Guess ill go 4 speed until I find the right box.

Nevermind, was just hoping to have most of this finished by the end of the weekend :(

Still the engine is in the hole :D
 
Sent you pm scott :D

So a few more interesting pics. Although I have also come across more set backs :(

This is the engine bay when I packed up on sunday
2011-02-12%2014.46.13.jpg


Yesterday I went home for my 30min lunch break (I live right around the corner :))
And did this :)

2011-02-15%2013.12.20.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.12.27.jpg


Then today I went back for lunch again and did this

2011-02-15%2013.12.31.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.29.20.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.29.25.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.29.31.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.29.39.jpg


2011-02-15%2013.30.33.jpg


Anyways set backs as follows.

Most of my yard is flooded including half my work shop, nothing damaged luckily but a pain in the ass when you have a lot to do.

And also the 5 speed box I got is no good :( the gear linkage is completly different as well as the mounts, they are also very different.

This means I now need to source the correct 5 speed or just use the stock 4 speed. Guess ill go 4 speed until I find the right box.

Nevermind, was just hoping to have most of this finished by the end of the weekend :(

Still the engine is in the hole :D
 
sr20bud said:
i see the mount on the car is still in the original position how did you make the mount for the drivers side?
Click to expand...

Its just a simple mount that superls fabbed up for his cg stroker conversion. There is some pics of all the parts I got from him if you have a look earlier in the thread. Will be page 1 or 2 I would have thought :)

Iam planning on making a really nice fancy mount, with a poly bush in, made to the same dimensions as the one above.

Could make more if there is interest :)
 
Now iam confused. I have been searching and reading up on prefacelift gearboxes. It appears I do have the correct gearbox, after the facelift 98 they changed to larger casing box like the cg13 has. Bigger clutch and fly/w and larger cv joints.

So looks like I will have to fab up some mounts, or just use the 4speed for ease and time saving, swap to 5 speed later down the road :)

Anyways, I have got everything ready so that as soon as the carbs arrive, ill take 15mins fitting them and fire the beast up. Only to check it fires ect then I rip it all out again to fab up manifold and paint engine bay. I hope the carbs get here in time for a test drive this weekend or early next week :D

Can't wait :D
 
you shouldnt need to fab mounts, the cg10 box can be fitted directly to the MA engine, its the gear linkage that needs altering, why dont it fit mate, whats up??

you have a special box being collected by UPS this morning :)
 
superls said:
you shouldnt need to fab mounts, the cg10 box can be fitted directly to the MA engine, its the gear linkage that needs altering, why dont it fit mate, whats up??

you have a special box being collected by UPS this morning :)
Click to expand...

Sweet thanks scott :)

Regarding the gearbox. The cg10 box I have is bolted upto the engine. The speedo drive is sorted, the clutch arm is correct the starter looks like a direct fit.

The front and rear mounts are very different! Completely different bolt arrangement, unless I use the cg10 mounts?

Which I don't have anyways lol. I think ill try the front gearbox mount which came with the cg10 box, its knckered but will serve the purpose of testing for fit.

Do I just cut and rotate the gearchange linkage?

Cheers
 
Regarding the rear mount.

The k11 box didn't have a didn't have a mounting bracket (the part that bolts to the box and then bolts to the rubber mount part and also the stabiliser bolts to this bracket). I removed the bracket from the k10 gearbox. Its does NOT fit. One bolt lines up, but not even sure if its in the right place.


So are you saying that if I use a k11 gearbox bracket, it will then line up with the k10 mount?

Did you use the k11 front gearbox mount? The k10 mount has a VERY different bolt pattern and not even 1 bolt lines up.

Iam capable of making mounts from scratch. BUT I would rather get the car going on the 4 speed and worry about 5 speed conversion after some miles have been covered.

Plus its booked into my local rolling road for 2-3 weeks time, can't remember exact date, but its close and I don't want to reschedule. Although they are good and it wouldn't be too much trouble :)

Ill worry about gearboxes later on when I build a high compression motor or a stroker or maybe a 1348cc lol
 
So I started sorting this zr manifold out.

Made a flange

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And cut off the zr flange

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Just gotta do some tweaks and were all good :)

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I did this with an angle grinder a vice and a pillar drill :)

Oh and ill weld the flange the right way :p
 
Cheers shaun, iam confident thisll turn out quite well and should perform pretty good aswell :)

Now i just need some carbs so I can fire it up, they should be here today/tomorrow :D
 
Got a package today when I got home from work! Had to go out for a meal though so only got 30mins of tinker time :(

Got half way through the epic amounts of packaging, and thought I should take a pic lol

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More pics soon, for some reason they haven't uploaded properly

Ok the inside of package :D

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I can't decide whether to bodge it all together and see if it fires, or rip everything back out and wait until I have sorted everything properly
 
Nice ;) even if I don't like the arrangement of the carbs, mine are 90° turned so that every of the 4 carbs is responsible for 1 cylinder, but this should work fine too.
I hope you get the engine running as soons as possible, I wan to hear the sound :D
 
Yes I agree on the configuration.

Air likes to flow in a straight line, doesn't like sudden direction change. Sudden direction change creates turbulance and in turn dramatically slows down air speed. Air speed is the key to a powerfull NA engine.

Iam working on an inlet that looks similar to this vvvvvv

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I have the flange and an inch of runner. I have some bends that I cut from other inlets. I just need a nice thick piece of ally to make a mounting flange for the carbs to sit on. Then I can get my mate to weld it all up and I will port it with my die grinder.

Before I can carry on I need to work out how iam gonna make an adjustable linkage between the 2 carbs for the throttles and the chokes. From there I can work out the spacing of the carbs and then get cracking. Iam also restricted by space so that needs taking into consideration

This setup is more than upto the job of getting the car running and sort out any teething issues.

The idea is to make an exhaust the compliments the carb/inlet setup. I need to make some calcs to work out runner lengths ect for the power band and caracteristics I want.

Iam really tempted to copy superls and build a stroker motor with a ported head and 11:1 compression.

Will see how things go I think :)
 

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