baguete's Micra K11 1.3 SR

[martinb]

ok fair dos cheers guys, think ill go for this, what you reckon? its the only damn thing that will tell me the torque rating and seems ok

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0528239692&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

near the bottom of the page in red

what you reckon?

 

[baguete]

Yes, i think thats the one you need. You just need to know its for a Nissan Sentra 1.6...

Oh, and did you already have the 1.6 flywheel? Get some weight out... :wasntme:

 

[martinb]

yeah mate it says so on listing, sentra 1.6, its also currently cheaper than the original site i found it too:grinning:

and they do 'make offer' aswell

should be enough for me i would have thought?

just got to check the postage then save save save lol

 

[Scott]

Be careful though. You might get raped on customs charges when it gets to the UK, so leave a bit of cash for that.

 

[baguete]

yeah mate it says so on listing, sentra 1.6, its also currently cheaper than the original site i found it too:grinning:

and they do 'make offer' aswell

should be enough for me i would have thought?

just got to check the postage then save save save lol

I think it will be enough, on a stock engine with turbo i dont see how you can make more power than that clutch can handle...

 

[martinb]

yeah thats true scott, ill ask seller to mark as used car parts, this waank government take enough from me so they aint touching my clutch lol

unless anyone else knows of another in this kuntry:laugh:

well im aiming for 150 ft lbs so hopefully this should be fine

cheers for your help guys

 

[baguete]

I hope it all goes well for you (and glad you didnt go for a paddle clutch :laugh.

BTW, did anyone fitted an hydraulic clutch to a Micra? Im having a bad time on my left leg because of the XTD clutch... Maybe adapting an Almera 1.6 hydraulic system?

 

[Scopez]

I hope it all goes well for you (and glad you didnt go for a paddle clutch :laugh.

BTW, did anyone fitted an hydraulic clutch to a Micra? Im having a bad time on my left leg because of the XTD clutch... Maybe adapting an Almera 1.6 hydraulic system?

hey bags,

Im going for the paddle one too mate, but the stage 3 one which is suppose to be more street driveable and rated to 268ft/lbs/280bhp..that will do for now I thinky

nice work by the way, keep it up want to see it all the bits on etc.

 

[pollyp]

I hope it all goes well for you (and glad you didnt go for a paddle clutch :laugh.

BTW, did anyone fitted an hydraulic clutch to a Micra? Im having a bad time on my left leg because of the XTD clutch... Maybe adapting an Almera 1.6 hydraulic system?

bionic leg or gym?

does ur clutch pedal have the simple tension return spring or the bi-stable spring to help clutch engagement?

 

[Low Rider]

Basic rule of thumb with clutches.

3 paddle - worst of the lot, very sharp engagement - more or less on/off
4 paddle - less harsh than above with marginal reduction in torque capacity
6 paddle - less harsh than 4 paddle, much less harsh than 3 paddle but lowest of all in terms of torque capacity but still higher than an organic plate
Organic - least harsh of all, very streetable, smooth engagement but lowest torque capacity

Swings and roundabouts. Just to give you an example my 184mm clutch with a 3 paddle will handle 205lb/ft and 160lb/ft with an organic plate. So the difference it not huge, (20% difference), but the choice in plate can make a massive difference in the way the car drives. So only look at a paddle clutch if you REALLY need one, otherwise they can become quite an irritation on the road.

 

[baguete]

hey bags,

Im going for the paddle one too mate, but the stage 3 one which is suppose to be more street driveable and rated to 268ft/lbs/280bhp..that will do for now I thinky

nice work by the way, keep it up want to see it all the bits on etc.

Nice one mate, hope you can up the boost soon :grinning:

Ah, will not have the car ready very soon, its a working progress, but all the parts will go in. :wasntme:

bionic leg or gym?

does ur clutch pedal have the simple tension return spring or the bi-stable spring to help clutch engagement?

:laugh:

Dont know mate, what is the difference?

Basic rule of thumb with clutches.

3 paddle - worst of the lot, very sharp engagement - more or less on/off
4 paddle - less harsh than above with marginal reduction in torque capacity
6 paddle - less harsh than 4 paddle, much less harsh than 3 paddle but lowest of all in terms of torque capacity but still higher than an organic plate
Organic - least harsh of all, very streetable, smooth engagement but lowest torque capacity

Swings and roundabouts. Just to give you an example my 184mm clutch with a 3 paddle will handle 205lb/ft and 160lb/ft with an organic plate. So the difference it not huge, (20% difference), but the choice in plate can make a massive difference in the way the car drives. So only look at a paddle clutch if you REALLY need one, otherwise they can become quite an irritation on the road.

Thanks for the info. (Y)

Mine is a 6 paddle. And now im getting used to it...

 

[martinb]

Thanks for that low rider
I will be having a lightened and balanced stock ga16 and would rather keep the "stock feeling"

I have driven single seated cars with paddle clutches and just kept stalling the barstard so I agree they are a pain

So you think the link above will be good enough for my setup ?

Thanks again for the info post too

 

[pollyp]

:laugh:

Dont know mate, what is the difference?

looking at the clutch pedal box

with the simple tension return spring, when you press the clutch ur fighting both the tension of the clutch cable and this return spring (tis actually not needed tbh).

on the bi-stable spring (think they're painted white), before the pedals 1/2 way down it's trying to return the the pedal up. but past 1/2 way it reverses and helps you push the pedal making it feel lighter. and ovbiously the clutch diaphram is alot spronger than the return spring so pulling the pedal back up when you lift

 

[frank]

looking at the clutch pedal box

with the simple tension return spring, when you press the clutch ur fighting both the tension of the clutch cable and this return spring (tis actually not needed tbh).

on the bi-stable spring (think they're painted white), before the pedals 1/2 way down it's trying to return the the pedal up. but past 1/2 way it reverses and helps you push the pedal making it feel lighter. and ovbiously the clutch diaphram is alot spronger than the return spring so pulling the pedal back up when you lift

that return spring is to stop the thrust bearing continously running tho surely ?

 

[pollyp]

the clutch arm has a return spring too. a thrust bearing just loosely riding on the diaphram with zero pressure can't be as bad as a misadjusted cable that's constantly holding the bearing against the diaphrams pressure?

but i think it's important to:
1. check the pedal rest height is within spec
2. check & maintain the clutch cable tension so that when the pedal is up, there's a tiny bit of slack when you try to pull the cable end closer to the clutch arm with ur fingers. the slackness means the bearing is allowed to barely touch under minimal load or even seperate slightly from the diaphram by the clutch arm spring
3. check the biting point is not very close to the floor

 

[baguete]

Ok, thanks, i will check it on my Micras... (Y)

 

[baguete]

Already installed a short-shifter, but i need to put 2 more washers to make it more tight. And i have an oil leak through the metal head gasket, on the oil passage to the head. Will try to re-torque the head, as its a metal head gasket it could need the re-torque:

Where it leaks, on the stock head gasket there is a metal ring that is compressed, on my metal head gasket it doesnt exist:

 

[baguete]

Seems that the re-torque solved the oil leak on the headgasket. :grinning:

Already have the turbo flange, but one of the studs doesnt line up, need to redrill it and make a new gasket:

Also have the banjo bolt for the turbo oil supply:

Dump valve:

New steering wheel:

Boost gauge:

Hubs and wishbones with new ball joints:

New discs and EBC Yellowstuff pads from Stani:

Cleaned and painted some of Stani's old suspension and handling parts.

Adjustable panhard rod and strut brace:

Front and rear 22mm anti roll bars, the rear one has adjustable drop links:

Spax coilovers:

 

[Stani1029]

Looking bra mate!

 

[baguete]

Looking bra mate!

BTW, i re-greased the Nismo top bearings, its a nice piece of art, very well made, did you opened them when you had them? You would be amazed with it. :grinning: And i set the dampers to the middle setting, dont want to have a harsh ride. :laugh: If there is good weather this weekend, i will install the parts on the car.

 

[Stani1029]

Cool and no i didnt, i opened the stock plastic ones though, well they kind of fell open lol did you manage to turn the rear green knobs? I miss them, my standard springs are terrible, i just hope the 50mm ones are stiff enough as i cant remember what the ride is like with them.

Lets hope for the good weather as your about to find out how a micra really handles with that kit

 

[baguete]

Cool and no i didnt, i opened the stock plastic ones though, well they kind of fell open lol did you manage to turn the rear green knobs? I miss them, my standard springs are terrible, i just hope the 50mm ones are stiff enough as i cant remember what the ride is like with them.

Lets hope for the good weather as your about to find out how a micra really handles with that kit

The plastic ones are crap compared with the Nismo ones. Yes, i was affraid about turning the knobs, but it is very easy, they just get stiffer when you set them to hard. Today it was raining all day, hope that tomorrow or sunday is a sunny day and all the handling parts are installed. And need the 4 Falken ZIEX ZE-912 tires (185/55R14 80H) i ordered, on the next week they are installed also, and then the SR will "eat" all the bends. :laugh:

 

[baguete]

Installed all the suspension and handling parts, but the front is very low:

When i tried the car, the front discs were touching the calipers, need to reduce 2mm in diameter, just like i did on the previous discs (which i installed again):

The wheels touch the chassis and fender, really need to rise the car:

Installed the rear parts:

Meanwhile i altered the turbo flange and made the gasket mould:

 

[Stani1029]

Wow youve been busy. Thats exactly how my car sat at the front and it only rubbed when i had wheel spacers on. What calipers are you using that makes them rub the disc?

 

[baguete]

I will need to rise the fronts, maybe 20mm, cant drive it like that on the country roads. :laugh:

Im using AD22VF calipers from GTi-R. And i had the same problem with the other discs i have, had to grind 2mm in diameter...

I installed the old front struts (Ventura springs) and will be like that until i can get a way to rise the front coils. Also installed the alloys that were on the grey Micra:

 

[Scopez]

looks lovely bags, cant wait until I get those anti roll-bars and some coilovers, out of interest is there a noticeable difference with the front and rear ARB's?

what size discs are you using? there are different size discs for the pulsars: mine are 256mm and have never had those rubbing issues. Yours may be the 258mm ones eh hence the 2mm skim required? Have you installed two washers behind the calipers to space it correctly?

 

[baguete]

looks lovely bags, cant wait until I get those anti roll-bars and some coilovers, out of interest is there a noticeable difference with the front and rear ARB's?

what size discs are you using? there are different size discs for the pulsars: mine are 256mm and have never had those rubbing issues. Yours may be the 258mm ones eh hence the 2mm skim required? Have you installed two washers behind the calipers to space it correctly?

Its a hell of a difference, the car is much more stable, but as im using Ventura springs at the front and some old tires (until i sort the front coilovers height), the front seems a bit imprecise, but even that way the car is much more stable and i can fly around corners. And the rear 22mm anti roll bar is twice as thick as the stock one.

Im using 257mmx26mm GTi-R discs. And yes, i had to use the washers between the caliper carriers and the hub.

 

[tat2_mike]

top progress mate. as for the coilovers, could you not use a longer spacer or will that not leave enough thread to tighten top nut ?

btw, i'm gay for those wheels. (Y)

 

[baguete]

top progress mate. as for the coilovers, could you not use a longer spacer or will that not leave enough thread to tighten top nut ?

btw, i'm gay for those wheels. (Y)

Yes, i can use spacers, but if i can move them upwards without spacers it would be better, im waiting for some spanners from a friend, lets see how it goes.

 

[baguete]

Ordered a Compression Tester, got it yesterday and tried it on the current engine, on all cylinders i got 11,5bar:

Got 4 CV boots to repair some good condition driveshafts, the current ones will break soon:

Already have the braided oil line for the turbo, to connect on the head, and washers with o-rings:

After a journey to a machine shop the stud that didnt lined up on the flange is on the correct position, its aligned with the flange and the gasket, and its easier to solder the turbo elbow:

Will be something like this:

 

[will930]

very neat mate cant believe the progress what coilovers are they as i noticed you have the rears with the springs on them.

i thought that the rear shock mounts wouldnt be able to handle it all on there own or did you beef them up alot?

 

[baguete]

very neat mate cant believe the progress what coilovers are they as i noticed you have the rears with the springs on them.

i thought that the rear shock mounts wouldnt be able to handle it all on there own or did you beef them up alot?

Thanks mate (Y)

They are Spax coilovers, that i bought from Stani a while ago. They are holding just fine, no reinforcement needed...

 

[baguete]

Already have the turbo elbow/downpipe, its a nice piece of art, fits on the conical shape of the stock exhaust (on my case on the Lloyd exhaust) and has two holes for a lambda and wideband sensors:

 

[pollyp]

hey baguete d'ya think its ok to position the wideband that close to the turbo to function longterm?

cos i have an innovate lc1 kit and my turbo exhaust has one port in the gtir elbow joint for the O2 and another port close by on the downpipe. if i could use the wideband on that downpipe port that'll save me from having to weld another bung further downstream near the 2nd cat but some sites suggests it should be at least 18 to 30" away from turbo to keep it below 500C or else it may burn out?

or shall i just get the bung welded further downstream anyway to save the sensor for afew quid of welding labour?

 

[baguete]

hey baguete d'ya think its ok to position the wideband that close to the turbo to function longterm?

cos i have an innovate lc1 kit and my turbo exhaust has one port in the gtir elbow joint for the O2 and another port close by on the downpipe. if i could use the wideband on that downpipe port that'll save me from having to weld another bung further downstream near the 2nd cat but some sites suggests it should be at least 18 to 30" away from turbo to keep it below 500C or else it may burn out?

or shall i just get the bung welded further downstream anyway to save the sensor for afew quid of welding labour?

The turbo lowers the temperature of the gases, and i will use the wideband on the second bung, the first one will be for the lambda sensor. I will just use the wideband for mapping, not for normal road use, but i dont think you will have any problems using it on the downpipe...

 

[baguete]

Already have new tires, Falken ZIEX ZE-912, 185/55R14, they seem very good. And saw how the rear axle act:

:laugh:

 

[tat2_mike]

overall rating for your new rubber mate? i know falkens have more of a round rolled sidewall so are great on slammed cars. (Y)

 

[baguete]

overall rating for your new rubber mate? i know falkens have more of a round rolled sidewall so are great on slammed cars. (Y)

Seems very good until now, but i have to wear the first layer of the rubber so they can grip good, i will give feedback soon mate. :grinning:

 

[niall k10]

Baguete, do all mainland european micras have no reverse lamp in the left hand light unit and the reverse lamp in the right hand unit?

If so, is there any possibility that you could source me a euro spec light so that I can delete the reverse light on mine.

Cheers, Mark.

bitta red permanent marker works wonders

 

[baguete]

Already got some stuff from Matt.

NME Brackets for rear disc conversion:

New Collars and Spanners for the front coilovers:

Nismo engine mounts, got 2 sets, one for each car:

Whiteline Caster/Traction Kit:

Some gifts from Matt

Here you can see how to install the Caster/Traction Kit:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KCA373

 

[baguete]

Got an aluminium sheet to make a new radiator support, need to move the top of the radiator a little bit to the front:

I will use a Dremel to polish the manifold:

Tested the brackets for rear disc conversion, they fit nice on N16 calipers:

New Nismo engine mounts already fitted on the brackets:

And i can finally install the turbo, already got the oil return and boost controller:

 

[r-reg-sr]

nice baging man
you gotoo do a guide for the rear carriers mate!!!

 

[baguete]

nice baging man
you gotoo do a guide for the rear carriers mate!!!

Will do mate, just need to do other stuff on the car first...

 

[baguete]

Turbo install, will post a video soon:

Had to do a new radiator support so it doesnt foul on the downpipe:

Installed the Traction Control Kit:

One of the Nismo engine mount decided to break loose from the bracket, had to make a temporary solution:

 

[tat2_mike]

top work mate. (Y)

 

[baguete]

Still not connected to the intake, but you can hear the spool:


[video=youtube;zEetg7vsWLA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEetg7vsWLA[/video]

 

[r-reg-sr]

nice vid
your cruel,making the camera man sit on the roof!

 

[Noddie]

It is said to be bad idea to run the turbo without the intake connected, it allows the turbo to spin much faster than it ordinarily would because there is no pressure to slow it down. (martin thinks that that is how he did his turbo in)...
Setup looks good though! that downpipe is nice.

 

[baguete]

nice vid
your cruel,making the camera man sit on the roof!

:laugh:

It was a camera support on the sunroof btw... :grinning:

It is said to be bad idea to run the turbo without the intake connected, it allows the turbo to spin much faster than it ordinarily would because there is no pressure to slow it down. (martin thinks that that is how he did his turbo in)...
Setup looks good though! that downpipe is nice.

Yes, i know, i was just testing it, im not driving the car now. Just need the intercooler so i can buy the intake pipes, after that is remap time.

The downpipe was custom made, to fit stock exhaust (or Lloyd exhaust in my case). (Y)

 

[martinb]

Looking good mate! Yeah that's how I did mine... Oops

110 down m25 with no load on the turbo it span like a goodun

All fixed now though

Phew ..won't be doing that again

You will have to come over hear mate when it's finished to a " boosted Micra meet " and have some fun!!