what did you do to your micra today ?

Se@n said:
Nice job @davyboy the BAM A LAM look 100% better. You doing lights black aswell?
Click to expand...
Did this today, very quickly, and a bit rough, just to check out the look. Badboy eye's I think you call them?????
DSC_0020_zpst5cke2ig.jpg

Also did this, again, done quickly, but looks OK. May change the design yet....have a few ideas. We'll see.
DSC_0022_zpsdzt5ghwg.jpg

DSC_0018_zpsznzkfzyq.jpg
 
Cclocks look cool. where they hard to do? I think it would look better if you painted the silver parts of lights black obvs still MOT legal ( but that's just my opinion its your choice) @davyboy
 
pollyp said:
both cars may appear to be a turbocharged cg13de in a k11 shell but they're miles different from one another like chalk n cheese such as:

Application - my setup is configured to be both a comfy daily commuter and occasional full-day trackdays at big high speed circuits spending many prolonged laps at full attack till I run outa fuel. franks car I'm guessing was more suited towards a daily street car with occasional short bursts/launches and short blast around small circuits.

Reliability - the yrs of R&D & testing on trackdays, all the uprated components (forged pistons, balanced assembly, bigger clutch, big brakes, bigger fuel system, ecu remapped on dyno, purpose built fully adjustable coilover suspension, etc) & detailed assembly ensures that she can withstand being driven hard with my type of driving style around a high speed circuit all day for many prolonged laps with higher "mean time between failures".

Power delivery - my power band is tailored towards mid-high rpm suitable for high speed circuits. last time I drove franks car in 2013 his smaller turbo setup delivers much earlier at low-mid rpm, gr8 for brief blast around town/tiny kart circuits but ran out of steam towards the high end.

Braking - massive pulsar brakes & disc rears can provide extreme braking performance at high speed circuits over many laps without fading.

Handling - fully adjustable coilovers has been corner balanced & tuned on track to handle consistantly, predictaby & equally under left/right turns to my preferance yet can be softened via a dial for rough bumpy public roads
Click to expand...
Yes your right there you can tell by looking at yours it's track looking car with alloys and sound of exhaust, with the big brakes standing out, also power wise is very close am guessing yours will take more power through the clutch, pistons, and handing on the road as well as track. You have good pump delivery, clutch, and forged, with big turbo with the gearbox you have and drive shafts what power you looking at without breaking anything ?


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Se@n said:
Cclocks look cool. where they hard to do? I think it would look better if you painted the silver parts of lights black obvs still MOT legal ( but that's just my opinion its your choice) @davyboy
Click to expand...
Hello Se@n. They take a while to cut out, and I did a lot of that a while ago now. You need to make a template first, but a lot of fine tuning to get them right yet.
Agree with you about the lights, I'm going to fly-eye them next to see what that looks like, just ordered the stuff....we'll see.
 
Azzydot said:
Yes your right there you can tell by looking at yours it's track looking car with alloys and sound of exhaust, with the big brakes standing out, also power wise is very close am guessing yours will take more power through the clutch, pistons, and handing on the road as well as track. You have good pump delivery, clutch, and forged, with big turbo with the gearbox you have and drive shafts what power you looking at without breaking anything ?
Click to expand...

peak bhp & ftlb is just one thing, the profile of the band and how it's delivered is another.
sure, those major few components can handle more stress but as with all systems, when you try to apply more stress the next weakest link fails, meaning stuff like the poor gearbox, shafts, suspension etc being to fail sooner. I've mentioned the TNT fuse idea as a metaphor before.

u gotta look at the whole long term picture and not just the little brief shiny tinsel.
sure, one could simply just aim for crazy power just to show off numbers but it won't last long or be cheap or good to drive.

I carefully defined the cars spec to sensible values suited to me, stick to the original parameter and work towards it.
I stick to 160hp 10psi cos it's known to be reliable then I strengthen/refine everything around it so it can survive & be satisfying to drive as a daily with occasional track use for many yrs.

simply fitting bigger turbos or running higher boost without thought may allow for bigger values but sacrifices reliability, and drivability as it moves & reshapes the power band higher up so it may becomes very peaky high up spinning wheels but very sluggish down low.
running a successful project is all bout balancing all the compromises & expectations to achieve the best overall outcomes closest to the clients need.
 
Mine is ropey, but it's a laugh. Not meant to be a track terror. That's what the evo is for.

I think the only reason my driveshafts haven't exploded is due to the poor remould tyres, obviously wheel spinning instead of gripping and breaking a cv.

The changes are coming though.

Fresh head gasket, new exhaust in mind, alloy racing radiator fitted and better intercooler next.

Better piping, better turbo and boost control.

It's coming along.

Just got these too.
ff8a235b5b45c814dd134216dfb495a5.jpg
 
davyboy said:
Hello Se@n. They take a while to cut out, and I did a lot of that a while ago now. You need to make a template first, but a lot of fine tuning to get them right yet.
Agree with you about the lights, I'm going to fly-eye them next to see what that looks like, just ordered the stuff....we'll see.
Click to expand...
good stuff matey don't forget to show us pics :)
 
pollyp said:
peak bhp & ftlb is just one thing, the profile of the band and how it's delivered is another.
sure, those major few components can handle more stress but as with all systems, when you try to apply more stress the next weakest link fails, meaning stuff like the poor gearbox, shafts, suspension etc being to fail sooner. I've mentioned the TNT fuse idea as a metaphor before.

u gotta look at the whole long term picture and not just the little brief shiny tinsel.
sure, one could simply just aim for crazy power just to show off numbers but it won't last long or be cheap or good to drive.

I carefully defined the cars spec to sensible values suited to me, stick to the original parameter and work towards it.
I stick to 160hp 10psi cos it's known to be reliable then I strengthen/refine everything around it so it can survive & be satisfying to drive as a daily with occasional track use for many yrs.

simply fitting bigger turbos or running higher boost without thought may allow for bigger values but sacrifices reliability, and drivability as it moves & reshapes the power band higher up so it may becomes very peaky high up spinning wheels but very sluggish down low.
running a successful project is all bout balancing all the compromises & expectations to achieve the best overall outcomes closest to the clients need.
Click to expand...
Yeah that is a good point u have the power to go with handing and reliable every day and nothing to worrie about as everything on yours is upgraded, you can stop quick and go slow or fast wen u need to, and do track days as you have handing and bigger brakes, also good intercooler to match, so would you say 5 hours per day on normal driving back and Forth as gave u any problems if u drive normal ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pollyp said:
peak bhp & ftlb is just one thing, the profile of the band and how it's delivered is another.
sure, those major few components can handle more stress but as with all systems, when you try to apply more stress the next weakest link fails, meaning stuff like the poor gearbox, shafts, suspension etc being to fail sooner. I've mentioned the TNT fuse idea as a metaphor before.

u gotta look at the whole long term picture and not just the little brief shiny tinsel.
sure, one could simply just aim for crazy power just to show off numbers but it won't last long or be cheap or good to drive.

I carefully defined the cars spec to sensible values suited to me, stick to the original parameter and work towards it.
I stick to 160hp 10psi cos it's known to be reliable then I strengthen/refine everything around it so it can survive & be satisfying to drive as a daily with occasional track use for many yrs.

simply fitting bigger turbos or running higher boost without thought may allow for bigger values but sacrifices reliability, and drivability as it moves & reshapes the power band higher up so it may becomes very peaky high up spinning wheels but very sluggish down low.
running a successful project is all bout balancing all the compromises & expectations to achieve the best overall outcomes closest to the clients need.
Click to expand...
Wanted to ask how many spines does your abs shafts have on the outer ? Will your shafts not fit into preface 1.3


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Azzydot said:
Yeah that is a good point u have the power to go with handing and reliable every day and nothing to worrie about as everything on yours is upgraded, you can stop quick and go slow or fast wen u need to, and do track days as you have handing and bigger brakes, also good intercooler to match, so would you say 5 hours per day on normal driving back and Forth as gave u any problems if u drive normal ?


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Click to expand...

other than topping up oil every 250miles, it drives fine like any other car, normal street driving ain't very stressful on a car
 
Ran the car with the wastegate detached.......

The restriction in the downpipe actually allowed it to make 3psi of boost...... With no wastegate at all....

Bigger doon pipe me thinks.
 
Azzydot said:
I mean your shafts are abs rings fitted on the cv joint and mines normal cv would abs cv and mines be same fitting for example ? Or is the spine Diffrent @frank have u check this before don't no if there is Diffrent


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Click to expand...

the ABS & non-ABS type 1.3L front driveshafts are exactly the same splines & CV joint assembly. the only difference is the machined groove to push fit the abs ring on.

I once had a normal rear hub lathed to fit the abs ring
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-2#post-387204
 
Watched this again, after watching some other rallying on TV.

Sweet Lamb - Wales Rally GB '14 - includes a fair sideways moment, a watersplash and jump at the end and a lot of spectators! Plus it reminds me how just how badly the tall knobblies ruined the gearing...

 
Received in the post some goodies including a very rare Jap spec genuine Nissan March rear boot hatch spoiler which attaches to the rear windscreen me's a very happy Micranaut lol! :p

Andy :D
 
Knocking on R/H side so I've lifted it up and found theres some play in the wheel (wheel bearing) on my k11.
Will it be safe to drive as I've got to travel 90 miles to Lancaster and back tonight.
Am I right in thinking you can stuff them with some grease to help temporary aid it?
upload_2015-7-24_6-33-8.png
 
ec536bf0f77b90f38fcfaafa5f483c72.jpg
1f2714a4a54eee9c0e805eed623686cf.jpg


New cock pit.

Easy to monitor rpm, engine temp, radiator temp, boost and as of last night, wideband lambda voltage.


Need more boost, the lambda readings are a little rich.

3.0v is stoichiometric 14.7:1

I never see more than 3.0v
And on full acceleration, it drops to as low as 1.1v.
Which is 11:1!!

Think I've found the cause of the sluggishness. lol
Rich much...
 
Not fully Micra related, but listed my MGZR ex road car for sale on here....

Needs to go as have a company car now, and need the cash to buy HANS to continue rallying next year (in the Micra!)
 

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