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The Blog of Glanza 2!

what is the power to weight ratio for a standard glanza? Looks like they can do 5secs - 60 modified?
 
Arnold said:
Im interested in the Fox Evo 2 alloys for sale on the site. I used to have those on my K10 and i loved them! They're silver/gunmetal too.
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Noooooooooooooooooo!!!!!

I'm not being funny here, but please don't put Fox Evo 2 on a Glanza lol!

Go for at least a Rota type Wheel if you want to keep the cost down, there are some really good rota wheels out there that suit the Glanza much better then Fox Evo's and not to mention the weight saving using Rota's

you have been told :p

Kev

torque_3.jpg


attack_3.jpg


autox_3.jpg


boost_3.jpg


circuit10_3.jpg


subzero_3.jpg


slipstream_3.jpg


lol I could go on and on :p
 
5 seconds? Would be veyr hard to do, you'd have to be a tame racing driver with the best rubber up front putting out a lot of power. Mine wouldn't do it under 6.
 
Kev said:
Noooooooooooooooooo!!!!!

I'm not being funny here, but please don't put Fox Evo 2 on a Glanza lol!

Go for at least a Rota type Wheel if you want to keep the cost down
Click to expand...

Lol,

boost_3.jpg


Does look very similar to

micrahistory14.JPG


But yes i agree the Rota's do look nicer, so i'll probably go with those.

I removed the low/high boost restriction and it makes such a difference, but unfortunately the old girl's throwing up check engine warnings every time i drive it now. :doh:

Hyundai said:
Ah yes, I see it. Is the performance really that different when it's in either Lo or Hi?
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Engine has to work harder in low. It's not a fuel saver like people think, it's just to aid traction in the wet.
 
Hmm, im not sure, if you turn up the boost you definately lose fuel economy.
I'd imagine if you had an electronic boost controller you could increase economy on a long run by turning the boost down.

There are times (like when driving 200 miles) that would be nice, since i only get 180 miles to £30!
 
I did over 100 miles yesterday in about 1/4 of a tank. You can keep it in low revs and off boost, it's quite economical, and that's with the low/high boost bypassed.
 
I wouldn't say the boost setting makes much of a difference when your trying to drive economically, as with little throttle on high or low boost setting your never generating much boost at all.

btw, that check engine light is probably because your close the fuel cut. When you remove that solinoid the boost can increase a tad too much. When it gets colder you will probbaly hit it. if you do, reinstate the standard setup as it can damage your engine if your hitting it regularly. Once or twice is fine though.
 
Ian said:
I wouldn't say the boost setting makes much of a difference when your trying to drive economically, as with little throttle on high or low boost setting your never generating much boost at all.

btw, that check engine light is probably because your close the fuel cut. When you remove that solinoid the boost can increase a tad too much. When it gets colder you will probbaly hit it. if you do, reinstate the standard setup as it can damage your engine if your hitting it regularly. Once or twice is fine though.
Click to expand...

What's the solution here. Fuel cut defender? I did put it back to standard but it didn't feel as fun to drive lol, but i'd rather that than it blows up. I want all the supporting modifications installed before any uprating is done, i was just under the impression removing the boost solinoid was a 'safe' thing to do :)

Think i might get these in silver, as below. opinions?

GRID_Silver.jpg
 
i like rota grids. BUT. there getting common now. everytime i go to a japshow there on almost everything. slipstreams are quite common aswell.

i like the rota GT3's and the cups...

on the other hand. some buddy club alloys would suit ;)
 
I'm really fussy when it comes to wheels and these are the only ones I like, but i agree with you also. Still, what's one more car with them fitted :p lol.
 
true. iam just mardy lol and i dont like seeing them all the time :p they would suit.

i would browse around the starlet owners clubs etc and see what wheels they are using. and if theres loads of them with simlair wheels on. you know to go for somthing diffrent :)

thats what i would do.
 
squarepants said:
true. Iam just mardy lol and i dont like seeing them all the time :p they would suit.

I would browse around the starlet owners clubs etc and see what wheels they are using. And if theres loads of them with simlair wheels on. You know to go for somthing diffrent :)

thats what i would do.
Click to expand...
+1! :)
 
Fuel Cut defender will be ok Alan,

I bypassed my hi / low boost setting and only hit the fuel cut once or twice, but if it's doing it regularly your right to put it back to standard.

All Starlet's will boost with slight differences, some will be ok with the low / hi boost altered, others won't be without additional modifications.
 
No, do not use the FCD if you hit the cut. You will just be running lean on standard fueling. With a walbro pump and a sard rising rate fuel pressure regular (RRFPR) you can run 1 bar of boost quitely safely as long as the AFR's are checked on a rolling road. With a standard turbo you can see upto 170bhp depending on overall engine health.

But not with a standard manifold, never go about .8 bar, as there is a built in restriction on the 3rd piston that causes them to melt.

*Sorry, built in restriction on the 3rd port of the standard manifold that cuases the 3rd piston to melt

With an exhaust, FMIC, manifold, Hybrid CT9, walbro, filter, HKS actuator, an SARD i made:

starletpower.jpg
 
As Ian mentioned A fuel cut defender is anything but ok. The purpose of any FCD is to limit the amount of load/boost the ECU can see. This is BAD as if you go into this region, the ecu simply had no idea what is going on. The further you go into this region the worse the situation will be.

I have mapped quite a few Starlets now (and Glanzas) best I have seen on ANY CT9 turbo on a Dyno dynamics rolling road is just over 200bhp, but you have to REALLY push them to get that kind of power.
 
Ed said:
As Ian mentioned A fuel cut defender is anything but ok. The purpose of any FCD is to limit the amount of load/boost the ECU can see. This is BAD as if you go into this region, the ecu simply had no idea what is going on. The further you go into this region the worse the situation will be.

I have mapped quite a few Starlets now (and Glanzas) best I have seen on ANY CT9 turbo on a Dyno dynamics rolling road is just over 200bhp, but you have to REALLY push them to get that kind of power.
Click to expand...

Yeah i posted up about hitting fuel cut on the toyota forums and they recommended not using the FCD. Get the supporting fuel mods in first, as Ian writes, and go from there. I've also read about the restriction in the manifold :)

So, low/high has been engaged again and i'll hopefully get all the right bits to tune her up safely, and let Ed check her over too
 
Thats quite suprising really because the GT's don't have the restriction as standard and i never hit fuel cut.
That said you do have another turbine blade compared to me.
 
That was the main critisim from the GT, that the lower gears didn't have enough traction hence the restriction. All starlets will be different when you remove the standard solinoid. Some will hit the cut, some won't come close.
 
Hmm, so there could be some more power for me in this! :D

Your right though, its only in very rare conditions i can put the power down properly in 1st gear, and mines standard.
 
the extra power you will get before hitting the fuelcut is not worth it dude. Get some supporting fuel mods, (sard and walbro) turn the boost up. its very crude as im sure ed will agree, however it *has* been proven time and time over.
 
Sometimes the crude ways do work, but only as generally they are not pushed too far. If they are its almost always problems.
 
Ian said:
the extra power you will get before hitting the fuelcut is not worth it dude. Get some supporting fuel mods, (sard and walbro) turn the boost up. its very crude as im sure ed will agree, however it *has* been proven time and time over.
Click to expand...

Someone said get an actuator and turn the boost down with the solenoid bypassed to limit the amount of power and prevent fuel cut?
 
Yes, that would work. Make it slightly longer then the original one, HKS is a popular choice. If you mod it your going to need one anyway. Ball ache to fit when its on the car though. Especially if you've left your aircon in.

TBH though, gains are so small im not sure if its worth it. it feels faster but in reality it aint that much quicker.
 
Ian said:
Yes, that would work. Make it slightly longer then the original one, HKS is a popular choice. If you mod it your going to need one anyway. Ball ache to fit when its on the car though. Especially if you've left your aircon in.

TBH though, gains are so small im not sure if its worth it. it feels faster but in reality it aint that much quicker.
Click to expand...

I've got an HKS actuator on my black one which will be coming off :) Not sure how they work, i've got loads of research to do still!! and yes Speed, give me a shout when your up this way next!
 
Ed said:
? Why do you want to change the actuator?
Click to expand...

I wrote above, someone said you can lower the boost with the low/high bypassed to stop you running too much boost and hitting fuel cut :)
 
You don't need to change it to do that. The stock actuator connected directly will run a low boost...
 
Time for a mighty mods quote! "Getting more power on your jap import is as simple as slapping on a $20 bleed valve and winding up the boost!"

Joking aside, I wouldn't try to get any more power out of my car without the appropriate mods to make it safe for the car, you didn't buy a car like this to dawdle about, you will be regularly using full acceleration on maximum boost, not great if the power increases are bodged!
 
Right guys i'm thinking about buying these, i'm almost certain :)

I just want your opinions.. Black wheels, polished lip. Silver car. I think they'd look alot better than buying silver rims, would stand out alot more.

With toyos fitted and locking nuts, it comes to about £650

grid_gunmetal_polished_lip-425x425.jpg
 
Gets my vote!

I'll PM ya when I get chance with regards your last pm.

Kev
 
hey you go Alan,

This should help fitting your boost line.

dump_valve_fitting1


thanks
Kev
 
Thanks Kev. That's your BOV vacuum isn't it? I'll use that, but a few people have said taking it from the map sensor instead! no one would tell me which vacuum though!

Was going to order the wheels yesterday but POTN told me the finance company they use has gone into administration
 
Arnold, where are the speakers located? - They're usually on the door on most cars but I cannot see where they on this one at all..
 
The speakers are located in the dash, no room in the doors and custom pods have to be made.

Yeah, that will be fine Alan.

Kev
 
Kev, what size speakers can you fit behind the dash? It's such a weird place to put them

I've ordered the wheels as pictured above, with Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres. I've also ordered front grooved disks with yellow pads, was going to do the rears too but they'l have to wait. I've also got some new OEM glanza vinyl stickers from eBay to replace my tired looking ones. My wind deflectors have been stuck at Parcel Farce for the past 8 days and they didn't bother to tell me. It's all happening slowly :)
 
arnold im so jealous i would love one of these my friend has a very nice red one with ray volks alloys on in white looks the mutts nuts i look forward to the update
 
Wind deflectors arrived today. Haven't got a clue how you fit them! They're in pretty good condition, some scratches and stone chips but i'm hoping that wont show up too much when they're fitted.
 
Ok really can't figure out how to fit the wind deflectors!! :(

Brakes, pads, hoses, oil and tyres have all arrived now. Just waiting on the alloys!! I took my door card off over the weekend to try fix my central locking, and i think the door motor's bust.

I get my black Glanza back tomorrow so maybe i can use spares from that one.
 
Some images, more to come soon

EBC Yellow Pads
Brakepads.JPG


CRN 40 Groove / Vented Disk
CRNdisk.JPG


Toyota Clutch/Brake fluid
Brakefluid.JPG


HEL Carbon fibre brake hoses
Brakehoses.JPG
 

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