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The 1.3 Turbo Battle####

hmmm, it may have to be considered! lol stuck indeed. Guessing the rears are that simple they can just be rotated? actually no, the hand brake line means it fixed orientation. Yeah I am lucky, its not all that bad. I have kept her (axle) indoors to avoid any more weathering until I strip her down and paint. Thinking about relaying the brake lines through the shell as well whilst I am at it. Means I can add hydrolic handbrake and manual brake bias adjuster! I like the idea of relocating my lines as they are scarily close to the ground!
Skinner_87 said:
Your axel looks in good nick mate, if you get "stuck" (bad pun) i've got a refurbed rear caliper sat in the garage that i never used
Click to expand...
 
do you find the rear disk handbrake giving way when the oil cools down? when I add a hydrolic hand brake I will not be removing the mechanical handbrake, I will just relocate it.
 
SirChris said:
hmmm, it may have to be considered! lol stuck indeed. Guessing the rears are that simple they can just be rotated? actually no, the hand brake line means it fixed orientation. Yeah I am lucky, its not all that bad. I have kept her (axle) indoors to avoid any more weathering until I strip her down and paint. Thinking about relaying the brake lines through the shell as well whilst I am at it. Means I can add hydrolic handbrake and manual brake bias adjuster! I like the idea of relocating my lines as they are scarily close to the ground!
Click to expand...

For the money moving the brake lines inside is not bad at all, especially if you used copper pipework... im not sure how you would get on with a bias valve & the MOT though, do you still need a split system? I originally run two bias valaves to keep mine split but ended up just merging them to one to keep it simple.

I used to run the two handbrake setup theres lots of room to fit it in, never felt much difference only the brakes bit better once up to temp :)
 
Skinner_87 said:
For the money moving the brake lines inside is not bad at all, especially if you used copper pipework... im not sure how you would get on with a bias valve & the MOT though, do you still need a split system? I originally run two bias valaves to keep mine split but ended up just merging them to one to keep it simple.

I used to run the two handbrake setup theres lots of room to fit it in, never felt much difference only the brakes bit better once up to temp :)
Click to expand...

Yeah planning on copper. the MOT should be fine. I think you need a split system at the least. What so you have no split in the system? lose one brake lose them all?
 
SirChris said:
Yeah planning on copper. the MOT should be fine. I think you need a split system at the least. What so you have no split in the system? lose one brake lose them all?
Click to expand...

Mines not split as we dont have MOT's here, my bias is set with a good % to the front so if i lost a rear brake id should be ok, if not it would be down through the gears & then the panic handle :)
 
SirChris said:
Been reading up your threads material on the rear disk conversion. Worried mine shall be seized, we shall find out eh!
Click to expand...

the original grease in the calipers handbrake lever/cam mechanism tends to dry out n seize up = either stuck on or stuck off.

when you remove the caliper and unhook the handbrake cable, grab the caliper handbrake arm with some pliers/adjustable spanner, swing it fully on/off and watch if the piston nudges in/out abit.

if it doesn't move, then then mechanisms seized n needs overhauling.
 
Skinner_87 said:
Mines not split as we dont have MOT's here, my bias is set with a good % to the front so if i lost a rear brake id should be ok, if not it would be down through the gears & then the panic handle :)
Click to expand...
well u are just running it in lol! the holy **** handle you mean? got a picture of your lines in the shell and where you put them? any advice?
pollyp said:
the original grease in the calipers handbrake lever/cam mechanism tends to dry out n seize up = either stuck on or stuck off.

when you remove the caliper and unhook the handbrake cable, grab the caliper handbrake arm with some pliers/adjustable spanner, swing it fully on/off and watch if the piston nudges in/out abit.

if it doesn't move, then then mechanisms seized n needs overhauling.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm can you replace the grease paul?
 
SirChris said:
Hmmmm can you replace the grease paul?
Click to expand...

yeah just needed a good clean to allow the mechanism to move and then repack it with general lithium grease.
tricky bit was removing the c-clip that's holding the mechanism to the caliper, had to make a special c-clip pliers.
 
pollyp said:
yeah just needed a good clean to allow the mechanism to move and then repack it with general lithium grease.
tricky bit was removing the c-clip that's holding the mechanism to the caliper, had to make a special c-clip pliers.
Click to expand...
I saw that you gave up :D That worried be reading you blog, I thought if paul cannot do it then I best not try :D
 
SirChris said:
well u are just running it in lol! the holy #### handle you mean? got a picture of your lines in the shell and where you put them? any advice?
Click to expand...

Wont be going so easy on it over the next few weeks ;) heres the M/S:
DSCN0160.jpg


Lines in the shell:

DSCN0161.jpg


I can get you some better pic's not problem..

Main advice would be just make sure they arent anywere they can catch on your feet or anything like that, & measure 3 or 4 times before you start cutting pipe :)
 
SirChris said:
ohh i thought you gave in and bought a recond' caliper!!
Click to expand...

oh yea,
-brought the first recon caliper when I first began the project cos had no knowledge and accidentally crushed that retainer cage in a vice.
-2nd recon caliper was to diagnose a sticking caliper and didn't have tool to disassemble the mechanism, and twas cheap on ebay.

then with the old dispensable caliper I was able to build a tool and learn how to overhaul it.
 
Skinner_87 said:
Its from Matt Humphries mate, brand new comes with the seals & fluid resivour etc.. 4.76mm larger diameter bore & is a straight swop
Click to expand...
ah good to know.
pollyp said:
oh yea,
-brought the first recon caliper when I first began the project cos had no knowledge and accidentally crushed that retainer cage in a vice.
-2nd recon caliper was to diagnose a sticking caliper and didn't have tool to disassemble the mechanism, and twas cheap on ebay.

then with the old dispensable caliper I was able to build a tool and learn how to overhaul it.
Click to expand...
ah i see! You may have to send me a pick for me to recreate such a tool.
 
uregeder.jpg

Rear axle removal
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how to water proof rust holes.
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roof lining off and the sun roof due to be removed. I am grinding out to roof and welding in checker plate.
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two tyres 185 60 13 for a fiver woop
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weight saving......
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this mess needs sorting.
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long exhaust
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signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
 
Thats some nice progress you got there Chris,

Are you planning to overhaul your rear calipers? (get plenty of pics if so :) :p)
 
So the plan;

New low mileage closed deck engine
Rebuilt gearbox with gripper LSD
Shell restore
New paint scheme
Relay brake lines
Rear Disk conversion
Possible roll cage
Mapping
Up boost
Uprate brakes
Loads more and not all that order.
 
also consider redoing that messy pick&mix plumbing.

and either recirculate that BOV to the turbo inlet after the MAF
and/or relocate the MAF from a "suck through" to a "blow through" setup between the BOV and TB

cos currently when the BOV dumps excess air out as you shut the throttle, the MAF still registers all that air and throws a wad of fuel in but without the matching oxygen so it briefly burns too rich, prob not too good for it.
 
pollyp said:
also consider redoing that messy pick&mix plumbing.

and either recirculate that BOV to the turbo inlet after the MAF
and/or relocate the MAF from a "suck through" to a "blow through" setup between the BOV and TB

cos currently when the BOV dumps excess air out as you shut the throttle, the MAF still registers all that air and throws a wad of fuel in but without the matching oxygen so it briefly burns too rich, prob not too good for it.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same thing. Not going to lie.. I love the bov noise but want t get here running clever.

signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
 
SirChris said:
I was thinking the same thing. Not going to lie.. I love the bov noise but want t get here running clever.

signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
Click to expand...

whether its recirc or free air BOV, I'd relocate that MAF to between the BOV and TB
 
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Tools...yay.

That back axle frank... Only one bolt was seized. Just took the rod off at the axle end. Will get the impact gun to give it a jolt
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
 
Unless iv missed something the 200sx maf is still not wired up? Are you not still using the maf in the t/b Chris? (in which case it is blow through already). I put the 200sx maf there basically as a short term adaptor for the filter :D I gave you the connector for the bigger maf for when you got it mapped but nothing to worry about till you do.
Ed
 
Awesome Chris, that's the same one I was gonna sell you - it's a beast :).
 
Noddie said:
Unless iv missed something the 200sx maf is still not wired up? Are you not still using the maf in the t/b Chris? (in which case it is blow through already). I put the 200sx maf there basically as a short term adaptor for the filter :D I gave you the connector for the bigger maf for when you got it mapped but nothing to worry about till you do.
Ed
Click to expand...
Got to be resourceful :D I shall relocate close to the TB when I can. Will no doubt take the motor to mapping on the back of a recovery truck, so injectors and what not are due to go in as well for that. need to get them balanced first.
 

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