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The 1.3 Turbo Battle####

Simple to use, but a bit of a bodge really, nothing beats twisted together then soldered wires then heat shrinked.
 
method for joining two wires together?
I think it applications where vibration is present they say that solderings isnt the best idea because it can become brittle and crack. I went to do a course at St.Cross and they just crimp and heatshrink, your crimps have to be solid though!! I think the important part is using the correct tool for the type of crimp you are using. a decent ratchet crimper is a good investment if you are doing lots of wiring. rechem do lots of types of wire and heatshrink, expensive but its what the F1 boys use eh :D
 
I use the twist, fold and insulation tape. Never failed.
But other than that I agree with ed. Decent crimpers and heatshrink wins
 
Solder only becomes brittle if if its a solid object soldered to a solid object and there is vibration, for wires there is more than enough flex to take out any stress that would be transfered to the wires. At Rolls we only use crimps when we can't get a soldering iron to the work or vice versa. Soldering guarantees better conductivity too, and poorly crimping high current wires is a fire hazard.
 
Enuo said:
Solder only becomes brittle if if its a solid object soldered to a solid object and there is vibration, for wires there is more than enough flex to take out any stress that would be transfered to the wires. At Rolls we only use crimps when we can't get a soldering iron to the work or vice versa. Soldering guarantees better conductivity too, and poorly crimping high current wires is a fire hazard.
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That's not what St. Cross taught me but you may be right:) maybe either is ok Chris, but if you crimp make it a good one:)
 
When soldering together you should twist the wires together first, you don't rely on the soldering for the mechanical strength but for the electrical conductivity. If we use it on a £4,000,000 cnc grinding machine when makig repairs I'm more than comfortable using it on my £675 car :)
 
More likely to break due to stress/bad joint if you rely on just solder, It's only tin and lead (forget what the new lead free stuff is but it's even worse for it). I've got away with it loads though, just not at work for obvious reasons.
 
you cant beat soldering. ill be doing that on mine along with twisting the cables together and heatshrinking.
 
For removable stuff just reuse the oem plugs etc, just leave enough cable on them if you have to chop em out that you can resolder it all up.
 
Enuo said:
For removable stuff just reuse the oem plugs etc, just leave enough cable on them if you have to chop em out that you can resolder it all up.
Click to expand...

all depends if you've got spare plugs or your adding completely new stuff :)

im fitting DRLs to the micra and will be crimping the connectors on
 
He he, life throws up such a variety ;)

I'll be replacing the entire OEM loom at some point and plan to solder as little as humanly possible.
 
Flux core solder is all well and good for doibg little jobs, but to be a pro you need proper flux and a small brush to apply it (tiny one like for airfix kits), and either solder wick or a desolder gun to remove solder when you cock it up.
 
h701micra said:
I use the twist, fold and insulation tape. Never failed.
But other than that I agree with ed. Decent crimpers and heatshrink wins
Click to expand...
This is my prefered emethod and never really caused any issues, i tend to use tank tape wrapped around the outside to give strength. Has the advantage that redo or reworking wiring on an event is much easier. On the London Rally i had to redo the connections to the ns headlight, if they had been soldered then this would have been a lot harder and taken a lot longer, was luckily in service so no time pressures but if on event properly all time lost would have been......

Hve had soldered, crimped and taped up joints fail on rally cars, probably crimped stuff is the worse for failing.

I only solder deep in loom repairs and then with leaded solder only.
 
SuperUno said:
This is my prefered emethod and never really caused any issues, i tend to use tank tape wrapped around the outside to give strength. Has the advantage that redo or reworking wiring on an event is much easier. On the London Rally i had to redo the connections to the ns headlight, if they had been soldered then this would have been a lot harder and taken a lot longer, was luckily in service so no time pressures but if on event properly all time lost would have been......

Hve had soldered, crimped and taped up joints fail on rally cars, probably crimped stuff is the worse for failing.

I only solder deep in loom repairs and then with leaded solder only.
Click to expand...
okay so maybe twisting of both ends together with tiny bit of solder at tip with some decent tape. I worry about snags breaking them apart.
 
Hey hey peeps.

So back from holiday, a bedroom has been decorated and the garden is done. We have a new purchase... one i should of made a long time ago..serious.

71jJ6gUN4FL._SL1260_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3781-Wideband-Standalone/dp/B001QFDZU0
 
I play to go home and do some work on the panels unless some friends want some help with their motors tonight. Need to prep and spray all of the doors, wings.. bumper and boonet/bootlid. new spoiler..

Also I need to clean down the upper linkage, lower arms and various bits for primer and paint.
 
uploadfromtaptalk1373045290115.jpg


So yeah think I am going to do a panel at a time then put it on the car. That was I avoid damaging them in storage. The new spoiler is now going to go on. Getting the old one off was a pain... Didn't want to go anywhere. Noddie did you put it on? If so well done. Don't think that bugger was coming off down the motorway.

Here is the spray booth tada ... Lushusly modelled by Joe
uploadfromtaptalk1373045427997.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1373045441530.jpg
 

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