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SuperS from Slovenia

Would look awesome in the 2012 calendar without the website watermarks ! (Y)


It might :blues:

@Guy: Tnx mate...havent really started to modify it yet. But i think there is enough power for now because it really cant put all of it on the road (spinning the inner wheel) so i will work on the suspension first. And brakes because after 75 laps they didnt feel allright :)
 
Got my hands on a GA16 airbox:

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Need to get a filter, some flexi hose for cold air ducting and ill also change the oil etc...
 
Did the service yesterday

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Oils and oil filter:

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Air filter in GA16 airbox. Made in japan :p

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And an adjustable fuel pressure regulator:

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First we drained the oils:

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Speedo drive:

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Wich is back here:

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While the oil was draining we glued the spoiler that came loose on this side and rattled alot:

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Then put the oil in and airbox on:

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Went for a test drive, came back to check for leaks and then took the fuel rail off:

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Fitted the adapter on the rail and conected the fuel pressure regulator:

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We set the pressure at 4 bar. It really does make a difference. Car pulls stronger now :)

Any ideas on how to connect the breather pipe to the airbox? This hose that is on now isnt very tidy. I will also move the battery into the boot to make space for cold air ducting :)
 
i used a leftover pipe from the throttlebody coolant bypass for that breather airmike :)

 

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What he said^^! But im having some trouble with idle. The throttle body cured the hesitation issue i had but the idle is now jumping from 1500rpm to 2000rpm and sometimes stays on 2500rpm etc... any ideas?
 
No i havent adjusted anything. The thing is that the car didnt have power and felt like i hit the was. It wouldnt rev on WOT and was hesitating. I resoldered the tb and changed the dizzy and it didnt help much. Then i bought this GA15 tb and at the begining it was stil hesitating a little. We read the fault codes and it came up as code 55: no faults. After around 100km's the hesitation went away and it now pulls niceley but the idle isnt right. It jumps from 1500rpm to 2000rpm and sometimes stays on 2500rpm. I also tried it with the coolant sensor disconected and its the same. Also tried disconecting the lambda and its the same. Also tried combinations of both and its still the same :) I do have a cheap ebay fuel pressure regulator fitted. Ill try going back to a stock one. And maybe adjust the idle but i dont know if that will fix the revs jumping up and down?

Any help would be most helpfull!
 
Well i bought a new coolant tem sensor, installed it, installed the stock FPR and removed the TB bypass so its heated now. And everything works as it should now.

Here is the sensor and i also got a rebuild kit for the sunny calipers that i am going to rebuild and install.

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I also recieved braided hoses which seem to be for a rear drum micra. Mine is rear disc so im waiting for a reply from the seller (uk based ofcourse....):

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So you are not going to use the FRP? How's the GA airbox - I am using a bell horn, but I think more torque will be gained with an actual box - right now its only red line power... the GA15 t/b you bought in SLovenia? From what car model it came? Sorry, just I am on the similar stage :)
 
No i dont think im gonna use the FPR again. I think the GA box gives some more grunt around 3000rpm. I bought the GA15 tb on ebay :) Its from a JDM pulsar i think.
 
more grunt @ 3K rpm as com[pared with stock CG box? Did you try any bell horns (from speaker boxes)? Do you think the frp messed up your idle at that time?? You did mention a noticeable gain with it a bit earlier on...
 
More grunt compared to this:

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The FPR and GA16 airbox were fitted at the same time so i dont really know what made more difference but i can say for sure that fuel economy was awfull :) And it felt like it was overfueling it under 2500rpm. The GA16 airbox gives you more of a sleeper look under the bonnet and its a bit more quiet.
 
I also had the bigger airbox fitted in my 1.0L. Definitely less torque under 3500RPM. Very good gain at 3500/4000RPM in 4th gear during highway driving tho !
 
I also had the bigger airbox fitted in my 1.0L. Definitely less torque under 3500RPM. Very good gain at 3500/4000RPM in 4th gear during highway driving tho !

Makes sense if it was 1.0. It doesnt pump as much air as the 1.3 so larger diameter intake will make it loose grunt low down ;) It all about the air velocity ;)
 
so I was thinking that the ga16 a/b with a larger intake pipe routed to front for more dynamic air charge, would be the optimal solution really... (cost wise and availability wise)... I had a nice design on my first Super S 10 years ago...a stainless steel pipe (alu would be heaps better) from front grille, over the cam cover to the t/b - the pipe never got hot, unless you were stock in traffic.
 
Brakes:

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Vented discs at the front, new discs at the back, new pad all around, rebuilt calipers at the front (was gonna do the rears to but the parking brake mechanism is siezed), braided hoses and Motul RBF600 racing brake fluid.

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Sunny caliper vs. micra caliper:

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Now im waiting for new rear calipers then bleed the brakes again and should be allright. The problem was that the parking brake doesnt work and you need to have it engaged while bleeding. Thats why i have no pedal....
 
My friend who is a much better driver than me allready lapped 59.59s with this car last year. This time i had a lot of trouble with brake bias and uneven braking at the rear (i bought new calipers for the rear but i recieved one that was leaking at the bleed olve so i installed the old one back ) and worn tires. Ill skip a few events now and sort these issues then go for low 59 or maybe even sub 59s ;)
 
thats' the spirit, mate!

just some questions:
-do you reccomend the motul 8100x-cess 5w40?
-do you found front ATE pads (for gtir calipers)? i only found rear ones when i was looking for front one, so i tought they didn't exist XD... in the end i went for brembo discs and ebc green pads:D
-just to summarize, if i'm not wrong your engine upgrades are almera airbox, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and ga15 throttle body, so you have more air and more fuel, right? these mods does not require to work on the ecu?
 
thats' the spirit, mate!

just some questions:
-do you reccomend the motul 8100x-cess 5w40?
-do you found front ATE pads (for gtir calipers)? i only found rear ones when i was looking for front one, so i tought they didn't exist XD... in the end i went for brembo discs and ebc green pads:D
-just to summarize, if i'm not wrong your engine upgrades are almera airbox, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and ga15 throttle body, so you have more air and more fuel, right? these mods does not require to work on the ecu?

- It is an excellent oil for daily use and some moderate track use. Good price to! For heavy track use i would go for ester based oils like Motul 300V or Fuchs Titan Pro S
- I dont have GTIR calipers, i have the smaller ones from a 1.6 sunny N14
- Yes except for the fuel pressure regulator wich i didnt like. No ECU work just an unplugged lambda for now ;)
 
Racing is about acceleration, braking and handlin,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,only kidding. :)
famous for front enders the k11. good you saving him !!!!!!
 
Completley my fault this. Was tired, the sun was wierd and i just didnt see the car in front stopping fast enough. Tried to brake but couldnt do much more. It was more of a nudge than a crash to my luck :)
 
it happend to me but i just notched the handbrake quick then car ended side ways slipping, saved accident by milimeters.
look to the future
 
Went from this:

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To this:

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using only my hands, a hammer, and a new lamp.

Now its ready for the new owner to come pick it up. Yes its sold sadly. I know i will miss it because its a great car and i had massive fun owning it. There is something about this little car that i cant put my finger on...oh well
 
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