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PROject PROfect

the headbolts might need re-torquing mate, i dont buy the factory headbolt sequence thing personally, i always whack them all down then back-off and re-torque each one separately while the others hold the head down tight
 
So this is the state my car is in...
1415130846011.jpg
 
h701micra said:
What's up Tom?
Click to expand...
Erm... control arms...
Easy job! Never!
The bolts are fused to the inner sleeve of the bush so need angle grinding out tomo till then it's up on stands like an annoying ornament that I wanted to burn today haha free to good home!
 
MicraPRO said:
Erm... control arms...
Easy job! Never!
The bolts are fused to the inner sleeve of the bush so need angle grinding out tomo till then it's up on stands like an annoying ornament that I wanted to burn today haha free to good home!
Click to expand...
Control arms? Wtf are they? Air chisel was a good tool to use
 
h701micra said:
Makes such a difference :)
Click to expand...
I've had a wheel wobble for a while... and been meaning to sort it out.
And tbh all the ball joints were ruined!
1415140663245.jpg

Rusty and the joint is so weak so just overhaul all the suspension then it's done :)
Need new shocks all round tbh... slight leak from the front.
 
Well 139,000 miles on a seriously abused Millie engine just ticked over... so I'm in the market for a CG13 with low mileage just a tall block no need for any ancillarys...
Reason mines leaking from the crank...
 
I'm sick of this engine in all honesty mate its been abused everyday of its life before I got the car... with another cg13 I can make the swap and rebuild this engine as I do use the car daily...
 
h701micra said:
Aye I've lobbed nylon ones in myself. Nylon everywhere :p

Just the rear one to try and make some time :)
Click to expand...
nylon on the front 1 (the white one in the pic) and poly on the other 2 (the yellow ones) is the best for a daily imo, when you floor the car the wishbone is forced forwards and because the poly ones have a s/s insert that is,nt bonded to the poly, that poly flange was chewed away within weeks on mine (the stock insert is bonded into the rubber, so you dont get that wear problem)
so a mix of the 2 types is the perfect compromise for a cg+t :)
 
Mines got the standard rubber rear at the mo. Have to say its not too bad, steering rack bushes are more important for me first, eliminate the slack you get while the bushes take initial load, its minimal but will help :)
 
h701micra said:
Mines got the standard rubber rear at the mo. Have to say its not too bad, steering rack bushes are more important for me first, eliminate the slack you get while the bushes take initial load, its minimal but will help :)
Click to expand...
the k10 rubber rack mounts are notorious for failing the mot anyway andy, and you have to be careful with the poly bushes that have the (unbonded) s/s insert eh, because the forces are concentrated in 1 small area (the big arrow) where-as with a bonded bush the rubber is pulling and pushing against the forces (the little arrows)
which is why i have advised members to go for the very stiff grade of poly, on a few threads on here

PB090287.JPG
 
frank said:
the k10 rubber rack mounts are notorious for failing the mot anyway andy, and you have to be careful with the poly bushes that have the (unbonded) s/s insert eh, because the forces are concentrated in 1 small area (the big arrow) where-as with a bonded bush the rubber is pulling and pushing against the forces (the little arrows)
which is why i have advised members to go for the very stiff grade of poly, on a few threads on here

View attachment 36687
Click to expand...
Must've been lucky for me then as my rack bushes are in good nick, but they are only a year or 2 old :)

I'm skippng poly completely and going full nylon where possible, avoids all issues

Definitely go for harder poly where possible too, poly bushes are nice, they're good but they're not an overall solution
 
So days off... time with Chloe and Millie.
Took the anti roll bar off again to clean it up because it was rusting, painted it and then came to put the new drop links in hmm... There not the same and appear to be too long.
Will sort that tomo.
We also did some more turbo related stuff, thought we would have a look at the front mount intercooler measured and checked where the piping would route to through the bay... looks like it won't be a problem :)
1416245763755.jpg

Just need to open it up :)
 

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