-
Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
since u asked, here's an update.
over the past few days I've been tweaking with various enrichment settings.
changing the cranking enrichment, it now cold starts at 9.5afr from 1200rpm rather than 9afr from 800rpm.
the cold afr now climbs up towards 14.7afr much faster.
I tried altering all sorts of rpm enrichment, decel timing, etc and nothing has reduced or affected the low rev rich overrun issue.
there's been afew annoying rattles mainly from the sunroof and have sourced it down to a slightly slack roller pin that the sunroof mechanism uses to tilt the glass, which was allowing the glass to rattle about.
so I wedged some wood between the glass and frame and totally silent now
its not like I ever use the sunroof.
even though I tightened the nut on the upper left trailing arm, the suspension knocking at the rear is still there, mostly when the cars setting off cold.
its cos the other side of the bush ain't secure against the hole (cos the bolt was previously quite loose and has now seized against the inner bush for awhile) so the rubber bush can rock about and knock the bolt within the chassis hole.
now I can't quite cut the bolt off cos its right next to the fuel tank :/
to take the upper arm off (so I can put the bush on a vice n whack or drill the seized bolt out) I'll also have to undo the other end on the axle but that's prob also another pita.
if I can't undo the bolts on the axle, I'll have to remove the whole axle by unscrewing or cutting the other bolts holding the arms to the chassis and thats even more pita.
basically this knocking loose seized bolt end is a real PITA and I'll just have to leave it. gives it character eh
next on list is to finish making a metal ball bearing universal joint for the front gear linkage cos the old plastic one is getting slack.
then curiously see if bits of the two spare engines can be swapped to make a working stock engine.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
found a spare gear linkage joint
the plastic outer bushes can be knocked off
to present a bare metal joint
the bore is 18mm while the bearing is 19mm so need to enlarge it slightly
tried the grind stone but will take awhile and not accurate
so instead I'll buy a £4 19mm drill bit to cut it properly
only found the two bearings so need to order two more
the plastic outer bushes can be knocked off
to present a bare metal joint
the bore is 18mm while the bearing is 19mm so need to enlarge it slightly
tried the grind stone but will take awhile and not accurate
so instead I'll buy a £4 19mm drill bit to cut it properly
only found the two bearings so need to order two more
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Try drill through as quickly as possible polly, it'll give a slightly undersize hole that will give a nice interference fit for the bearing. Alternatively Loctite do a specific adhesive for fixing bearings in place. Twist drill bits don't give very good hole accuracy when you're after a specific hole tolerance. Another alternative is to get an undersize drill and a reamer but thats ££££
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
got a 19mm bit from toolstation for £5 and the extra 2 bearings have arrived
enlarged the bore with the drill bit few mm down. the bearings are a snug fit
to shorten a center bushing accurately and keep it square, here's my budget milling rig
all pieces machined n ready
fits like this
took the old joint out. yep the plastic out bush is worn loose and the tape I used between the outer bush and ball bearing has degraded loose so the whole joint is slightly too slack
fitting the new ball bearing joint with the 1mm washers inbetween the bearing and selector was abit fiddly but it's on
test drive and the movement of the mechanism is noticably smoother with no slack. 1st gear still has the slight notchy selection but I think that's more to do with the gearbox end cos it eventually slots in afew millisecs later if I keep pressure on it, as though the 1st gear synchro is having slight difficulty trying to match the cogs in time.
but if I initially select 2nd gear to nudge the mechanism along and then select 1st, it'll slot right in smoothly. so it's prob a minor misalignment of the selector mechanism and nothing to think off
enlarged the bore with the drill bit few mm down. the bearings are a snug fit
to shorten a center bushing accurately and keep it square, here's my budget milling rig
all pieces machined n ready
fits like this
took the old joint out. yep the plastic out bush is worn loose and the tape I used between the outer bush and ball bearing has degraded loose so the whole joint is slightly too slack
fitting the new ball bearing joint with the 1mm washers inbetween the bearing and selector was abit fiddly but it's on
test drive and the movement of the mechanism is noticably smoother with no slack. 1st gear still has the slight notchy selection but I think that's more to do with the gearbox end cos it eventually slots in afew millisecs later if I keep pressure on it, as though the 1st gear synchro is having slight difficulty trying to match the cogs in time.
but if I initially select 2nd gear to nudge the mechanism along and then select 1st, it'll slot right in smoothly. so it's prob a minor misalignment of the selector mechanism and nothing to think off
h701micra
Deactivated Account
They're just M12 bolts?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
partially threaded to a certain length. dunno if the original bolts have different material spec n treatments to other bolts either
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Can you not see the grade on your oe bolts? :/
I've used A4 stainless steel partially threaded bolts with no issues
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
good call zed, they have a large array of partially threaded A2 and high tensile bolts
just have to query which one has the right amount of "non-threaded section" to match the bush insert length and then since they're cheap as chips may as well replace all the trailing arm bolts at once during warmer season.
Show and tell me the nut and size u want il get it posted for u
Sent from my iPhone using T
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
I don't have enough time off work or energy to wonder to the scrappys anymore. and even at the scrappys the cars are all wheel-less laying flat on the rubble so accessing the underside is tricky especially if muddy, the rusty bolts there are prob in no better condition than how mine are so would prob end up all day wasting time n effort on every rusty nissan looking for a usable and extractable bolt.
buying a new oem bolt, will make the job easier n faster (no need to extract & clean old rusty threads) n safer (less likely to fail compared to out-of-spec normal household bolts).
if u got some, perhaps next time we meet eh
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
totally forgot bout japfest, just sent payment in time to maxk11. shame there's no track fun but could just book another myself.
collected the new expensive bolts tday
#55080-41B00 £5.41 annealed looking one at the top, fastens the upper trailing arm to the axle beam.
#54132-01B00 £11.23 zinc plated bolt at the bottom, fastens the trailing arm to the chassis.
there's hardly any difference between them and yet the basic zinc looking bolt is twice the price and looks no different to getting a box of 50 from screwfix for £7?
chassis bolt has slightly more threads available
marked T for high-tensile?
dunno why the massive cost difference but tbh next time just better getting the cheaper annealed one or even some screwfix bolts.
just wait for a clear weekend to drop the axle n cut the old arm bolts out
collected the new expensive bolts tday
#55080-41B00 £5.41 annealed looking one at the top, fastens the upper trailing arm to the axle beam.
#54132-01B00 £11.23 zinc plated bolt at the bottom, fastens the trailing arm to the chassis.
there's hardly any difference between them and yet the basic zinc looking bolt is twice the price and looks no different to getting a box of 50 from screwfix for £7?
chassis bolt has slightly more threads available
marked T for high-tensile?
dunno why the massive cost difference but tbh next time just better getting the cheaper annealed one or even some screwfix bolts.
just wait for a clear weekend to drop the axle n cut the old arm bolts out
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
You'd need to cut them in half and get them under a microscope to look at the grain structure to see the difference... size, shape, alignment, and thats before getting into grain composition (different alloy phases, ratios of phases etc). I wrote an entire essay on a bolt once...
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
They'll be grade 8.8... so they snap before the chassis does
may as well have gotten the screwfix ones then eh
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the main purpose of the nut & bolt is to apply alot of clamping force between the chassis brackets and the rubber mounts metal insert and it is the friction between them which secures it in place against any shear loading through the suspension.
probably afew reasons for the shorter raised sleeve feature.
the thicker 12mm stem of the shaft ensures upon initial fitting that the metal insert is approx centered to the chassis bracket hole.
most of the thinner 11.5mm section means that not all of the bolt shaft is in close contact with the metal inserts inner bore so less surface area will be rusted/seized after afew years, which means it'll be easier to remove.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
todays topic is insurance which is due renewing on 19th and sky letter quotes £560 tpft. with 7yrs no claim, that's only afew quid of discount from last year :/
so I rang afew places.
first Hertz insurance, quoted £540 fully comp, £200 excess, includes breakdown, hire car etc.
gr8, said I'm gonna rang about and call em back if I accept, guy saying its a good deal and I sense em trying to make the customer buy immediately.
nah-na I ain't gonna fall for it, still gonna phone around.
he says if I call back before they close at 2pm they'll offer it at £525. ok noted.
next Adrian Flux, quotes £484 fully comp, £200 excess, breakdown, hire car, etc.
sweet, once again I'm gonna ring around cos skys letter says they'll refund the difference plus £20 of any other cheaper offers. but to try lure me in, the guy says this offer is only available whilst it's live on his system/server, yeah right, if I hang up n lose that offer I'll only have to phone up again and retry the quote, meh.
so took note of ref number and said I'll call back.
finally Sky, mentioned the fully comp offers from the other companies, after afew mins the best they can offer is £400 TPFT but they dont offer breakdown for the age of car
whilst it is the cheapest option, it didn't have what I was looking for.
decided to go for adrian fluxes offer cos:
so I rang afew places.
first Hertz insurance, quoted £540 fully comp, £200 excess, includes breakdown, hire car etc.
gr8, said I'm gonna rang about and call em back if I accept, guy saying its a good deal and I sense em trying to make the customer buy immediately.
nah-na I ain't gonna fall for it, still gonna phone around.
he says if I call back before they close at 2pm they'll offer it at £525. ok noted.
next Adrian Flux, quotes £484 fully comp, £200 excess, breakdown, hire car, etc.
sweet, once again I'm gonna ring around cos skys letter says they'll refund the difference plus £20 of any other cheaper offers. but to try lure me in, the guy says this offer is only available whilst it's live on his system/server, yeah right, if I hang up n lose that offer I'll only have to phone up again and retry the quote, meh.
so took note of ref number and said I'll call back.
finally Sky, mentioned the fully comp offers from the other companies, after afew mins the best they can offer is £400 TPFT but they dont offer breakdown for the age of car
whilst it is the cheapest option, it didn't have what I was looking for.
decided to go for adrian fluxes offer cos:
- the cost was much better than what the Sky letter originally offered anyway,
- fully comp meaning I can drive moms car without paying extra insurance for being a named driver,
- windscreen, keys & stereo cover,
- euro breakdown cover! sigh of relief that if something breaks during any long road trip (eg if I was going to Nurburg) then I could least get it fixed or recovered back home
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
alright let's sort out this suspension bolt.
lowered the axle beam for better access
wirebrushed clean n removed the axle/arm nut
but the bolt wasn't seized onto the bush, it just slid out yay luv it when that happens, one less bolt to grind off
to prevent burning the full tank of fuel, layed some foil over it
propped up the arm so its out the way
took awhile grinding the bolt head off
head destroyed
grinded the other side too
arm removed
chassis bracket intact and no fires
tried punching the old bolt out but it ain't working cos it's properly seized solid.
so time to drill it out
drilled upto 10mm and its offset close to the edge. didn't wanna use the 12mm bit I brought earlier cos that'll cut into the metal insert
so instead I cut the hacksaw blade thinner to fit in the hole
and began cutting two slots across the hole
chisel the section out till it clears
so now with the section detached, the old bolt is no longer locked against the bore and was easily knocked through
just have to reassemble it now
lowered the axle beam for better access
wirebrushed clean n removed the axle/arm nut
but the bolt wasn't seized onto the bush, it just slid out
yay luv it when that happens, one less bolt to grind off
to prevent burning the full tank of fuel, layed some foil over it
propped up the arm so its out the way
took awhile grinding the bolt head off
head destroyed
grinded the other side too
arm removed
chassis bracket intact and no fires
tried punching the old bolt out but it ain't working cos it's properly seized solid.
so time to drill it out
drilled upto 10mm and its offset close to the edge. didn't wanna use the 12mm bit I brought earlier cos that'll cut into the metal insert
so instead I cut the hacksaw blade thinner to fit in the hole
and began cutting two slots across the hole
chisel the section out till it clears
so now with the section detached, the old bolt is no longer locked against the bore and was easily knocked through
just have to reassemble it now
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Well be considering Adrian flux me think next time.todays topic is insurance which is due renewing on 19th and sky letter quotes £560 tpft. with 7yrs no claim, that's only afew quid of discount from last year :/
so I rang afew places.
first Hertz insurance, quoted £540 fully comp, £200 excess, includes breakdown, hire car etc.
gr8, said I'm gonna rang about and call em back if I accept, guy saying its a good deal and I sense em trying to make the customer buy immediately.
nah-na I ain't gonna fall for it, still gonna phone around.
he says if I call back before they close at 2pm they'll offer it at £525. ok noted.
next Adrian Flux, quotes £484 fully comp, £200 excess, breakdown, hire car, etc.
sweet, once again I'm gonna ring around cos skys letter says they'll refund the difference plus £20 of any other cheaper offers. but to try lure me in, the guy says this offer is only available whilst it's live on his system/server, yeah right, if I hang up n lose that offer I'll only have to phone up again and retry the quote, meh.
so took note of ref number and said I'll call back.
finally Sky, mentioned the fully comp offers from the other companies, after afew mins the best they can offer is £400 TPFT but they dont offer breakdown for the age of car
whilst it is the cheapest option, it didn't have what I was looking for.
decided to go for adrian fluxes offer cos:
- the cost was much better than what the Sky letter originally offered anyway,
- fully comp meaning I can drive moms car without paying extra insurance for being a named driver,
- windscreen, keys & stereo cover,
- euro breakdown cover! sigh of relief that if something breaks during any long road trip (eg if I was going to Nurburg) then I could least get it fixed or recovered back home
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
You really are one of the best home mechanics I think I've ever seen, the methodical way you do stuff is fab
thanks alex
when its a weekend and I don't have to work, this is what I luv doing with a passion.
experience tells me what tools n parts I need to prep for and what worked best when encountering stuff like seized fastenings then just work through it systematically no matter how long. gets faster with practice.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
its worth shopping around afew mod specialists for the best deals.
i'm now down to only 3 companies who'll insure a car with this many mods so choice is limited
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
another rattle at the back end to fix.
resonates during a certain vibration frequency through the chassis, ain't the seats, parcel shelf or doors, its under the chassis.
believe its the exhaust shield on the fuel tank cos I remember one of the mount points were rusted off loose. something to do on weekend.
resonates during a certain vibration frequency through the chassis, ain't the seats, parcel shelf or doors, its under the chassis.
believe its the exhaust shield on the fuel tank cos I remember one of the mount points were rusted off loose. something to do on weekend.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
time to replace the air filter. removed the cover and seems water had pooled at the bottom.
the newer filter was abit smaller than the tin can
so trimed a section off
ziptied it snug to the new filter and leave a gap so trapped water can drain down
taped to the filter so it doesn't just slip off
fitted
the rear exhaust shield was fine, nudged it further away just to be sure.
this rear brake line was slightly loose so nudged it away from the body abit and rezipped it tighter.
most of the plasticy rattle/shuffle noise has reduced but not vanished and perhaps my ears are abit too annoyed bout it. attempted to taped the parcelshelf down, remove all the parcelshelf n surroundings, shifted the boot brake light away from glass, the shifty noise is still occasionally there at certain road vibrations. more testing to short the little annoying issues out
the exhaust is also still randomly coughing/hiccup only at warm idle. afr stable and minimal sign of misfire from the engine bay but at the back the exhaust sometimes poofs and rpm slightly dips after each poof. tried misting water on the ht leads for any spark leaks but no signs.
the newer filter was abit smaller than the tin can
so trimed a section off
ziptied it snug to the new filter and leave a gap so trapped water can drain down
taped to the filter so it doesn't just slip off
fitted
the rear exhaust shield was fine, nudged it further away just to be sure.
this rear brake line was slightly loose so nudged it away from the body abit and rezipped it tighter.
most of the plasticy rattle/shuffle noise has reduced but not vanished and perhaps my ears are abit too annoyed bout it. attempted to taped the parcelshelf down, remove all the parcelshelf n surroundings, shifted the boot brake light away from glass, the shifty noise is still occasionally there at certain road vibrations. more testing to short the little annoying issues out
the exhaust is also still randomly coughing/hiccup only at warm idle. afr stable and minimal sign of misfire from the engine bay but at the back the exhaust sometimes poofs and rpm slightly dips after each poof. tried misting water on the ht leads for any spark leaks but no signs.
Last edited:
It's interesting you were talking about bolt strength Paul. The numbers on any quality bolt follow a prescribed code that describes the tensile strength. The numbers go up in sequence but basically 8.8 is the first seriously good quality rating (tends to be used for seatbelt mounting brackets etc). The next one is 10.9 (iirc) and that is epically good quality and strength and there are a couple above that .
.
