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My long promised blog

I was considering this instead of an oil cooler:
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Heats the oil up faster and keeps it at the correct temp without the need for a thermostatic cooler takeoff :)
 
Think you'll get away without wont you? Especially with you mega pump of coolsnt :p
More worried the oil isn't getting hot enough, it's not exactly under a lot of load cruising even at 90. With an exchanger you don't need to worry, oil is kept heated if too cold and cooled if too hot. Can also be remote located, good if space is tight.
 
Thanks Neil :) they were pretty simple to fit . Drill the holes in the right place and pop rivet :D

Wont you need a take-off regardless to pump it through the exchanger in the first place
 
Oil coolers are complete overkill on those engines. They would struggle to overheat flat out all day on a track.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Oil coolers are complete overkill on those engines. They would struggle to overheat flat out all day on a track.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Thanks for your unhelpful/uneducated info

I'm not expecting to boil the oil.
Coolant temp increases on the track which increases oil temp too.. taking the oil out of it "effective lubricating range".. cooler keeps it in that range
Its not overkill at all on this engine either, Being as they're a cast block they retain heat more than ally engines so run hotter in competition. Tracks have straights less stressed periods for cooling... rallying is shorter bursts, autotests/autosolos are short bursts which doesn't give the cooling air it needs even though its working hard

As for overheating in general. After 2/3 hours competitive driving they need a good break as the temp gauge climbs up towards hot as they start to get tired.
Look again at my photo of the oil cooler mount. The brown dirt is from rad cap blow off from an engine that will "struggle to overheat flat out"..
 
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Anyway, disruptions aside, on to my mini update
Lock springs for the bumper. At approx 80/90 they start to flap :p
The 2 bolts that normal hold it had aged and sheared
Pics are taken on my oldddd phone :D as are quite a few these days
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Relocated my mini expansion tank by moving my air intake to the other side
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Then made a small alloy bracket to hold the carbon airbox
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Basically I bought an aluminium bar from BnQ on a whim and used it up :D the springs were an easier solution for me

Now to look at remaking the bumper bracket to A.) lose weight B.) become a simple clip on/clip off bumper
 
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Mini update
Put some left over carbon on the dash to hopefully stop the glare problem I get
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See told you it was a mini update
 
Does the clock surround come off the dash or is the dash all one piece? Cos if everything goes to plan with mine I may nee to fit some EP91 clocks lol


Sent from my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon
 
Does the clock surround come off the dash or is the dash all one piece? Cos if everything goes to plan with mine I may nee to fit some EP91 clocks lol


Sent from my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon
Always starlets with you, isn't it :p


'Sent from my bed using paper planes'
 
Jay's right :p
The dash splits mate. 2 screws either side at the front. Pull it off a bit. Undo switches and you're free
 
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Sweet May have a look to see if I can fit a set of clocks in there if not it's an EP91 dash haha


Sent from my slutty secretary as I'm tied up in the fungeon
 
lol would love to have a starlet but even as a donar they are nearing on £2k, plus insurance on one for some reason is about the same price, weird that is as the micra with an engine swap from a glanza costs less than £300 lol
 
I'd like to say I have an exciting update to share but I dont think I do. Rather than clog @pollyp blog up with my version of events of the weekend, i'll stick them here

Had a couple of weekends now with the lovely Paul to repair, and I use that word extemely loosely, his sills. Safe to say it will be re-done in the near future. We spend alot of time talking about cars in general not just suspension, its always good to speak to someone who shares a common interest, probably explains the hours of convresation

Showed Paul what happens to rubber boots on gravel rallies when I showed him my MK2 escort quick rack I use, its in dire need of refurbing :p infact i'll get a photo and stick it in here :)

Took Paul out in H701 to see if he could notice the difference in the passenger seat of a balanced and setup car. We talked about steering and steering response along the journey and from Paul's description there's a big (big in motorsport terms) "dead zone" in the K11 PAS rack, whereas mine with the new mounts etc is immediate with a very minimal "dead zone". Ideally you need to be the driver to physically feel what's happening but it was a fun journey nonetheless, even for me to get out on the open road again :) rear a tad stiff but with an autotest coming up its no bad thing, but it still instilled confidence in me on the twisty bits :D

After the little run approx 10 miles off memory, it gave the battery a good charge, spat all the crap out the exhaust, thoroughly warmed the engine even though I stayed away from full throttle on the public roads, but all that load and eventually getting to my pre-determined manual rev limit, to clear the engine out that bit more ready for next week

Battery must of enjoyed the charge too, it skipped the not starting when warm issue and started straight up. Which was enough to deduce a bad earth connection, but having used all my welding wire on Paul's car, I've none for me and my new battery earth and mount :p
 
try the easy quick task of wirebrushing the battery terminal/inner cabin sill and starter ground lead/chassis first before welding.
 
I shall do but I had the battery mount plate idea planned for a while.
Just never got around to it. Got another to try in some other, more accessible holes
 
Got round to sorting my main battery earth today, been on my list of things to do ever since the battery went in the back so its good to finally have a more permanent solution
Cleaned the body up, a load washer and the cable
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Cleaned up the cable end and both battery terminals too

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Then bolted it up, replaced the heatshrink and/or taped up the cover up and put it all back together, then carried on cleaning up every earth on the car, but had no extra photos to that lot
 
Catching up on the forum as I've been fairly distant recently.
But I'm catching. Just read all the silicone hose threads too
@Enuo you are correct he was the mysterious super suspension man that refused to give details

Everyone can feel free to replicate my work just don't expect a step by step guide :p

In regards to silicone hoses there are reasons they are used in motorsport. Higher bursting pressure is the one and only true reason other than that they're just bling.

OEM is designed for just that OE... once its customised its no longer as the manufacturer designed and every effort thet put in perfecting that one setup is no longer applicable

The main area I'd say that silicone hoses are useful is for their versatility. Cars like mine and many others need something unique and custom made. Or where the OEM hose is no longer available... bloody top hose...

Another key area in silicone hoses is their thickness and resilience. A simple gravel rally can see a rad hose chewed through if not properly protected. A much thicker rad hose isn't a bad idea

Unless you expect to truly push the car you'll be safe with OEM hoses where applicable
 
Thought I'd do a little write-up/update about Sunday and the Auto-Triathalon event me and @pollyp attended
Sunday morning and it begins at 7am, first task was to bleed Paul's rear brakes, so on the roadside at this hour on a Sunday it was a sight for those that did pass us. Brakes done, Paul much happier with the pedal feel, Job Done.

Next was to load all the bits n pieces I like to take while on an event which didnt take long as it was pretty much prepacked stuff, oils, fluids and some tools

Arrived at East Kirkby airfield at just gone 9am, nice steady drive, with one small burst of throttle to clear out any crap along the way.
Signed on, got our route map and a time card. Had a wander around the circuit, jeez its tight only 12inches of space at most either side to get through, the 2 classic minis that arrived had it easy. The BMW 5series estate, Gen 6 Celica and the Honda Accord had a bit more to worry about.

After the walk around the route I thought it will be easier to memorise if my passenger could read the route out in simplified pace notes, he's never nav'd before so I couldnt ask him to do turns in numbers. Pace notes made. Time to queue up and in good H701 fashion the start button was pressed and nothing, zilch, nada, nope. Quick bumpstart and decision made that a new starter was in order, fit new one, refurb old and keep as spare.
Paul was sharing my passenger so as soon as I crossed the finish line, Rob would have to jump out and zip over to Pauls cars and do it again (along with my pacenotes, cheeky)
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Event 1 - Slalom course, measured in points not time
First Run on event 1:
Terrible, first section was simple enough after that I'd got myself lost and amongst the en masse of cones I pointed the car at slightly the wrong on the exit from gate 7 and ended up backwards through gate 10. This was the section we was warned about 8-12 was the hardest part of the course and a slight misjudgment can ruin it. Ah well rejoin and carry on, too tight in to go through those tight gates, skipped over to 13 and carried on, right left chicane followed by a long version of the chicane we just did. Onto an anti-clockwise 270degree turn, pulling the hydro and the mech handbrake and forgetting to let the mech handbrake down again meant we did the rest of the course with it on.
Few 90s into a clockwise 270 degree turn, round in a type of S to the finish
The car was setup to grip, not slip so getting it to slide was going to prove difficult, the amount of grip my car had over every car there became apparent on event 3
Run 1 - 1:50 and 7 penalties (3:00).. this pretty much put me badly out of the running for a 1st place finish, top 10 becomes the target of the day

Second Run on event 1:
Notes cleared up, Nav speaking slower and more clearly, Tyres warmed up, Brake Bias adjusted for more rear braking, Me learning how to handle this new build alien car and partial memory of the circuit meant we cleaned the circuit with 0 penalties and shaved 5 seconds off. Still not a great time but as each penalty is worth 10 points and least points wins. We had technically shaven 75 seconds/points off the time

Run 2 - 1:45 and 0 penalties (1:45)

Third and final Run on event 1:
Time to push the car, see what it really can do, Nav repeated his previous note reading slight adjustment and highlight some key points on route, car setup left the same.
3, 2, 1, Go and we were properly off this time, route was becoming familiar with reminders needed just incase. Brake bias was perfect and the Hydro handbrake came into its own. Unfortunately on one turn we just nudged a cone, it happened just off camera on the (only) video of the run.
Other than that it was a perfect run, cocking a rear wheel left right and centre

Run 3 - 1:25 and 1 penalty (1:35)
I think one more run and I'd have another 10 seconds off that time but ah well, time for the car to cool down, realise I'd ran the event on the tyre sidewall on one tyre, but not on another where it has more camber (dodgy wheel alignment but it was good for testing in the end)
Had unconfirmed sayings of it being the fastest run of the day all penalties considered. If so, great :) if not, still great :D

Modified route map
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Event 2 - Blinfolded Driver Test
Simple navigate through the cones that were only 6 inches wider than the car itself, each car was measured. Event was timed neither.
Except I was blindfolded and it was down to the nav to get me through. Having done a similar event before I passed on my hints n tips to my nav and he picked it up straight away.
Finish with 0 penalties on that one, passing my navigator to Paul, he also cleared it with 0 penalties

Event 3 - Run away to the Circus, with sticky guns and hoops :D
This was the first quarter of the old Slalom course, but this time we had to stop at 5 points, shooting the traditional licker sticker type bullets at targets, straight over the finish line, loop round and back through the start to chuck hoops (old fan belts) over the cones which the targets hung from
Penalties were for cone hitting still and missing of target/cones

Run 1 - Pretty much like Run1 in the Slalom, I messed up, why, we'll never know. Anyway it was a short and simple mistake that was instantly corrected and didnt do us too bad time wise, having someone hanging out the passenger window with a kids bright orange toy sucker gun was entertaining to watch, I didnt get to see what it was like for me, I was too busy going too fast :D Plenty of misses from the gun and the hoops gave us a few penalties but everyone it in the same position, but our time made up for it

Run 2 - Much better run, more targets hit and hoops looped, even faster round the course. I mentioned far too much grip earlier on. Here's why, the car grip gripped so hard on the loop from the finish round to the start, not only did I cock a rear wheel I also started to have front inside wheel lift too, thankfully its an open diff so the momentary break in power put me back on the floor, but then by that time we was already round too, so all was well
We were given a word of caution from everyone that Rob needed to keep inside the car as we did the loop through fear of the car going over.

Run 3 - This time I pushed hard, very very hard, even Rob who isnt normally phased said this time we cornered that wuick he darent hang out the window, which can only mean a good time was in order :D
Event finish, idle dropped to 500 at best, didnt want to run at all, I'd worked the car hard, but we were done for the day so it could sit and cool down for a bit, I say cool down it was sooooo hot that day I think the external air temperature was the same as the engine temp :p

Everyone finished their finals runs and it was time for a drink and find some shade or put up with the heat. Spoke to Ady one of the organisers and we clarified where Paul had traveled from. As too many people cleared the blindfolded event they couldn't award anyone with the trophy so it was decided that Paul should get the remaining trophy for travelling such a long way to get here

Event 1 - I came joint 6th with my good friend Colin (Gen6 Celica), to which his misses said "oh for god sake can you two not doing anything without each other", good laugh had to be had, but we got our top 10 so we were delighted,
As the names continued Paul's name popped up in 4th place, great result :)
Event 2 - Of course no award was to be given so everyone was notified
Event 3 - Running through the results, we did terrible I thought, the names rolled by we had to come approx 10-15th place here, nope 5-10?.. Nope... Top 5 :eek:... nope. We won the event :D

Back to the poorly running car. Had a few people come over to see what was up, tried a few easy fixes, coil was hot, potential vaporisation from the fuel in the lines, all checked out ok but nope still refused to run
So to get home I said to tighten the throttle cable up to keep constant throttle to keep the car alive. Paul spaced out the throttle cable at the pedal with cable ties and I loosened the throttle cable ready to adjust. Start idled at near on 3000rpm :p adjusted cable let the carb close a bit, decent idle, time to go home
After just 5 minutes on the road and the fresh blowing over the engine it soon cooled down and the idle picked right up
Quick pull over, cut cable ties off the throttle cable, and normal service was resumed.

Got home to take photos of the car with its bloody well earnt trophy, it nearly died earning it :p I really need to start taking more photos and videos of these days out
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Sticking up a couple of photos of tyre wear and angle
Driver side
Managed to get them on their sidewalls during the events on Sunday, by quite a way it would seem
Front view shows where the tyres contact the road, nice and even across the board
Front view of the camber angle on the drivers wheel, only 1.2 degrees of camber, relative to the body.
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Passenger side
Much the same story as the drivers side, got onto the sidewall again, it would appear I was on this side wall alot more violently than I was the drivers wheels, but thinking back to the event the hardest corners were right handers, and with the right hand side of the car lifting they wouls have taken the whole weight of the car
Front view shows even tread wear but slightly to the left due to the increased camber angle
Upper view shows the camber angle on this side of 3.4 degrees. I think this what saved the tyre from further damage on those hard corners
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Rear tyre wear
Back didnt get away lighlty either they've been thoroughly "bedded in"
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Conclusions I can draw from those pics and the feel of the car during the day

Front tyre pressure was 30deg when cold
Rear tyre pressure was 26deg when cold
FR: Camber; -1.2, Toe; -2, Caster; 5.6
FL: Camber; -3.4, Toe; -2, Caster; 5.6

If peak grip was order of the day then the corner balancing and suspension setup as whole was perfect. So much grip and so much confidence in those tight little corners. Unlike track days where corners are generally longer and smoother. These were sharp and fast changing meaning that weight transfer was fast and unsettling the car wouldn't be too hard.
And if the sidewall is only worn when the tyres were loaded with cars entire weight on the 1 side then I'd say they did very well.

Could get more technical into it and alter the F/R balance an shirt more weight forward to lighten the rear and allow it to step out easier on request, but there was no understeer from the current setup and I wouldnt want to upset that
Alignment wise -2 toe out was brilliant for allowing that rapid direction change, and to pick a figure for camber I think without sitting and working it out around 3degrees negative is just right

If I was to change anything for this event it would simply be an increase in rear tyre pressure and possibly a little stiffer on the rear spring wise. Other than I cant complain
 
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excellent detail andy :cool:
what bars are the fronts at?
cos mine used to roll that heavily onto the letters when I ran at the standard 2.2bar and the flimsy soft walls just give in.
nowadays I run the max 3bars and never rub the letter. video show they still flex alot but not as seriously.

currently editing uploading our vids before typing
 
excellent detail andy :cool:
what bars are the fronts at?
cos mine used to roll that heavily onto the letters when I ran at the standard 2.2bar and the flimsy soft walls just give in.
nowadays I run the max 3bars and never rub the letter. video show they still flex alot but not as seriously.

currently editing uploading our vids before typing
2.0 bar front and 1.8 bar rear.
I dont mind rolling onto the sidewall. Well tbh I was just having too much fun to care :p

I wouldn't change my pressures. Once on track they'll heat up somewhere near 3 bar I'd of guessed. But for the slalom event it gripped so well :D

Thanks for the 2nd vid

I wanna go again :p
 
Well, now Nissanubaru is nearing completion (finally), its time to turn my attention back to H701 and its bits n bobs.
What's planned?
The Twin-Charge engine, which should be going back together in the next few weeks.
Besides twin-charging it I wanted to add a little extra complexity at the bonus of gaining engine bay space, and me being me there's also a positive handling aspect to it too :)

It will involve having the dry sump I've already got ready to go (minus pump), the sump hangs a little too low for my liking already so the dry sump idea was planned and prepped way back when the GA originally went in

Engines and power figures bore me after long so back to handling. After cornering in such a manner that my lateral G-force exceeded that which the car could physically handle, I will need to do 1 of 2 things, but most likely a light combination of both.
1) Add an anti-roll bar, this can, shall and most definitely will induce some serious understeer. Why? Well the current bump/rebound travel coupled with spring rate and damping I have is perfect (if I do say so myself), there's not overly much roll, unless my wheels leave the floor again and it's already extremely neutral, no oversteer, no understeer which leads me too...

2) Widening the cars track, This allows me to keep the neutral handling parameters but the setup will need to be changed. Simple laws of leverage dictate that if my moment arm is longer I need a stronger spring to compensate... Basically an alteration to my motion ratio currently 0.94, I suspect a drop to around 0.85/0.90, which in suspension terms, is massive. Not to mention my scrub radius, roll centres, increase in unsprung mass etc



I'll also get my MK2 escort rack sorted out and show what alterations needed to be made to make it fit, its really quite simple :)

I'll try and capture it all as I go through it to show how, what, when and where I prod my car to work it all out

Now i have this to refer back to as a plan :)

Here's a photo I found today from my Motor Club in their club magazine
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Made myself a rear strut brace, realised I need to tidy my car up
Its nice having a car with my history in, like learning to weld with gas wire without gas all around my rear turrets, its a horrid site to see but its part of my story
But it has to go, it represents me and my work this car so I need to update the welding :p

Anyway, rear brace
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Did a little check on my wheels on that willtheyfit.com
Wanted to know how far out my speedo is. I know larger wheels make it read slower but by how much

So I checked it out :)
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Assuming I got all details correct, although my only true interest is the rollding radius and my actual speed vs my indicated speed. I'll take a sat nav out or similar and see if I can see that difference.
But if its 10.38%, I best watch my pace
 
They say necessity is the mother of invention
I have to lug the welder, then the gas bottle, then the grinder and ppe, then all the littles bits n consumables. 4/5 trips there and back and I'm ready to go. So a little hold all trolley was in order. It has to fit in the corner my welder currently lives. Which is a very snug fit.
Photos are few and far between and not that great

Set width
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Cut tube to cover threaded bar
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Drill holes to plug weld tube in place
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Weld and grind back to make a mini axle
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Make frame to hold welder and gas bottle
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Plate gas bottle frame
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Weld box section to mini axle. Who said MIGs cant match a TIG
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Skip a bit, like the 2 little joiners and weld it all together and some etch primer and Ta-Dah!
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Part 1 complete
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Check it fits in the corner as planned in my mini brief
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