My 1.3 K11 Si - Over 104 BHP!

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FH-5

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Hi everyone, my name's Faisal and I'm from Wembley, London.

This is the first time I've revealed my car to everyone on this awesome site. It was up for sale in the K11's for sale section for past 2 weeks, but have decided against it now :grinning:

My beloved K11 is a 1999 1.3 Si, manual, in silver. It is in great condition, and with only 67000 miles on the clock. Comes in 3 door with Rev counter, front electric windows, remote locking, front fog lights, alloy wheels, power steering.

I have spent thousands on this car, and it is now quite a fast car - (I have beaten 2.0 BMW '60 plate cars all the way from standstill at traffic lights to 115 mph (on private roads of course :grinning:), and many other shocked and embarrassed cars on my list!).

Below is a quick list as to what I have done to my K11:

  • 4-2-1 stainless steel Janspeed Competition Group A Exhaust Manifold from Matt Humphris
  • Full stainless steel completely decatted exhaust system - custom made by powerflow with larger than standard diameter (Now I know powerflow is no good, but does job - did not have a clue back then - got conned into paying £££ for exhaust system! RIP OFF - oh well)
  • Green Cotton NanoStorm Induction Kit with Cold Air Feed at front grill - one of the best performing kits with one of highest BHP from Matt Humphris
  • 1.6 Primera injectors
  • And all of these awesome modifications have been perfected with Ed's work at Fusion and Surrey Rolling Road in March 2011 - Nistune ECU installed and mapped to produce 104.1 BHP!
  • And with all that power on such a light car, brand new discs and racing high performance Mintex M1144 pads fitted in March 2011 as well - just after the Nistune ECU from Ed, so they are basically brand new - from Matt Humphris
  • And for a bit of fun, a 139dB Stebel Nautilus Compact truck horn installed which is by far the loudest horn you will ever need - miles louder than the PIAA sports horns - I've had both, PIAA horns are like mice compared to the awesome Stebel!

The great thing I think is, from outside it is completely stock (apart from chrome front grills sprayed matt black - not really noticeable and of course exhaust from back - not that big) - not lowered, no fancy alloys or lights, not de-badged etc - absolutely no exterior modifications. This shocks and embarrasses people even more because they do not have a clue what is under my bonnet when I rip them apart!

Once I have money I am going to buy the Spax suspension kit from Matt Humphris (about £600 I think :wow:) which will enable me to corner at much higher speeds than currently with the spongy stock suspension - it is like steering a boat, awful - very unstable at high speeds when cornering even a bit!

It is really an awesome car, as Ed said, a prime example of how "it should be done" when modding a K11, and now the rewards are great with 104.1 bhp! The acceleration is fairly rapid and equally the stopping power of the Mintex M1144 pads is extremely impressive and they have no brake fade at all - an unbelievable bargain at about £50 from Matt Humphris - definately most cost effective mod you can do - they are so powerful - and on standard discs - no need to upgrade discs or calipers with these M1144 pads!

I also service the car regularly using premium products, and boy oh boy - I have an obsession with cleaning my car - interior and exterior!

And just now I have received a custom lightened flywheel at 2.66 KG from Mayes Motorsport for £325 (eBay: search "micra flywheel")! Will make a huge difference for acceleration once it's fitted (I know it will decelerate much faster as well - but who cares SPEED SPEED SPEED!) It looks awesome.

In the near future after I get Matt Humphris' £600 Spax suspension set up and 195-45-15 Toyo T1R's all round, I need tips on how to get more BHP only - most cost effective - I don't know - maybe cams, turbo etc. I want to keep 1.3 engine though. Please advise all you K11 experts out there!

Thanks for reading, and please comment (any tips greatly appreciated!)

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[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
Ok, via imageshack I have uploaded shootout of my 104.1 BHP after Nistune on Surrey Rolling Road. Tomorrow pics of car - interior, exterior and of course engine bay.

Yes euro_micra, definately Nistune is a must! Especially with Ed's amazing knowledge and workmanship! It really is a no-brainer if anyone is serious about modding their Micra properly!

Airmike - if I was not so BHP mad, definately the best is the full suspension setup with brakes first before everything else. But seriously, do not waste hundreds on brakes - all you need is the amazing Mintex M1144's from Matt Humphris and you are seriously done - just install them on new standard solid brake discs. Pads are about £50-60, discs are £30, then a bit of labour or do it yourself - ONLY £80! Amazing for what it gives you! When I was over in Oxford with Matt he told me that all I need is the Mintex M1144's on standard solid discs, no need to touch the useless back brakes, I trusted him and boy was he right.
 
Next is to install my brand spanking new custom made 2.66 KG flywheel! Have read from others on here who also bought same flywheel from Mayes Motorsport that is makes one hell of a difference for acceleration - more than cams some people on here have said!

The only thing is, I have some local mechanics, they'll do it for same price as a clutch change (may as well change clutch as well whilst removing clutch) - £80 (extremely cheap for London!), but I prefer someone on here who has knowledge to do it - peace of mind. I am prepared to travel around UK and spend a day. I'll obviously make it worth while for the person as long as it is not more expensive than my mechanics price, plus you can have a good look at my car, and I would love to see other peoples modded K11's - never seen one on road! Who is best on the forum to fit my new flywheel (with new clutch)?
 
Sounds like a fantastic car :). If you want a real brake upgrade, fit braided stainless front hoses (~£30). I fitted some a fortnight ago and the difference it made was 10x beter than when I fitted EBC turbogroove discs and greenstuff pads. as soon as you even touch the brakes, you feel your bum slide forward on your seat (Y).
 
Euro Micra, Its using a modified standard ecu (Nistune) not Nismo ;)
 
Ed said:
Euro Micra, Its using a modified standard ecu (Nistune) not Nismo ;)
Click to expand...

Oh my, thanks Ed, just realised! How embarrassing. I got mixed up between Nismo and Nistune (probably because I have a Nismo sticker to look at everyday in my Micra which Matt gave me a few days after I got Nistune). All posts edited. Shows how much I know compared to you lot :laugh:
 
6.5x55 said:
Sounds like a fantastic car :). If you want a real brake upgrade, fit braided stainless front hoses (~£30). I fitted some a fortnight ago and the difference it made was 10x beter than when I fitted EBC turbogroove discs and greenstuff pads. as soon as you even touch the brakes, you feel your bum slide forward on your seat (Y).
Click to expand...

Really - is it hard to fit? I would definately want some. Please send me link of where I can buy them, thanks.

airmike said:
If you dont make the solid discs fade then you arent driving fast enough :)
Click to expand...

I did once braking hard from 90mph :grinning:. But value for money M1144's are great.
 
Welcome :) Ed told me a little about your car after he mapped it. Great result from bolt on mods and it goes to show the results from a properly tuned setup. I think that's the most amount of power I have seen from a standard long block CG13.

M1144's are good if you can handle the dust levels. I run them front and rear and find them to be a very good fast road / track pad for the money. Also, standard front discs and M1144's are more than adequate for a road car, plenty people on here have bigger brakes without any 'real' need for them....
 
peposhi said:
SPOTLESS! (Y):laugh:
Click to expand...

I know, thanks! Believe me, I am addicted to having a clean car! I ABSOLUTELY HATE PEOPLE TOUCHING MY WINDOWS grr! Basically, I clean interior weekly with premium autoglym products (amazing products), looks like it has been valeted weekly! Have a look at all the brake dust on front alloy wheels compared to shiny back alloy wheels :grinning:. Exterior is washed less often as it gets dirty so quick here in polluted London!

airmike said:
The size of those primary pipes :wow:
Click to expand...

:p One of the most BHP adding mods I got - the 4-2-1 janspeed stainless steel rally manifold from Matt. Also the noise it makes is deafening. Just sounds amazing at full throttle, especially in tunnels!


Have a look at the green wiring at front of engine bay (I tried my best :p) - custom wiring of the monstrous Stebel Compact Truck horn (located to left of cold air feed at front of engine bay) - direct to battery with inline 20A fuse and with a 4 wire relay - embarrasses the PIAA sports horns. It has to have 2 earthing wires as well - in total 4 wires!

Also, I need to cover whole cold air feed in heat reflective material to improve performance - as Matt said about the manifold when I bought it, when hot (takes very little time to be hundreds of degrees) if touched will take a layer of your skin off (have not heat wrapped manifold - don't know whether to as have read contrasting opinions?)! So with the manifold at hundreds of degrees, all heat rises from it to cold air feed which makes it hot, so not good for performance as hot air is sucked in. As you can see, the manifold burnt through the heat reflective fabric, so I rotated it on cold air feed 180 degrees, that is why you can see big rip on top which was originally directly above manifold. Once I get proper heat wrap for cold air feed (will wrap whole cold air feed with a few layers of best heat reflective product), it will look much neater and improve performance as much cooler air will enter though filter. Also I have to tidy up all those messy cable ties everywhere!

Just to ask again, can anyone recommend someone on here to fit my new 2.66KG flywheel? Thanks
 
You should open a thread: "How and What is best to clean my Micra" - a true love story :)
I wish I was like you, but... won't happen even in a million years :)
Kalata from here has his car in fantastic clean condition too, anytime I meet him
Fair play to both of ya... (Y)(Y)(Y)
 
Ive just been reading this thinking it was the for sale thread :blush: ahaha. Amazing car though, ever taken it down the 1/4 mile?
 
FH-5 said:
I have spent thousands on this car, and it is now quite a fast car - (I have beaten 2.0 BMW '60 plate cars all the way from standstill at traffic lights to 115 mph (on private roads of course :grinning:), and many other shocked and embarrassed cars on my list!).kwote,,,,

looks like it:grinning: eliots got the "itch":grinning: again
i got this STOCK SLX with wilkinson oil swishing about init,but its now begging me to hurry over to the next borough and have a taste:grinning:
Click to expand...
 
Eliot said:
Ive just been reading this thinking it was the for sale thread :blush: ahaha. Amazing car though, ever taken it down the 1/4 mile?
Click to expand...

Thanks Eliot, no I have never been to a race track of any sort, let alone 1/4 mile strip! Maybe once spax suspesion set up with 195/45/15 toyo t1r's all around and lightweight flywheel installed (flywheel should be done next week :grinning:).

R-REG-SR said:
looks like it:grinning: eliots got the "itch":grinning: again
i got this STOCK SLX with wilkinson oil swishing about init,but its now begging me to hurry over to the next borough and have a taste:grinning:
Click to expand...

Definately, go for it, you will get addicted into doing more and more and more - like I am now! But it is well worth it I tell you! The face on those embarrassed BMW 2 Litre 2010 coupes and the likes is PRICELESS :cool:
 
[QUOTE
i got this STOCK SLX with wilkinson oil swishing about init,but its now begging me to hurry over to the next borough and have a taste:grinning:[/QUOTE]

sorry ,cause i dont speak properly:grinning:
i am in the adjoining borough to you so wouldnt mind seeing this machine in the real steel


my friend might like
 
R-REG-SR said:
sorry ,cause i dont speak properly:grinning:
i am in the adjoining borough to you so wouldnt mind seeing this machine in the real steel


my friend might like
Click to expand...

Oh I had no idea :laugh:!!! I thought I was a lone soldier in London! I would love for you to come and have a look at my K11 and I can see yours! Do you want to come round before I get the lightweight flywheel fitted (this week) or after (you can experience greater acceleration then!). I live in Perivale, Greenford which is a 5 minute drive from Wembley stadium? Where abouts do you live R-REG-SR? PM me if you like. My first time potentially meeting up with a Micra enthusiast! (Ed and Matt Humphris excluded!)
 
ok you want me to come in an start over again main:laugh:

i'll pm yourself
or pm me a time your good for evening after rush hour and no funny business the po police head quart is right near you,where they watch all the cameras in london:laugh:
theirs also "will" on here londonish thing that he's a right,,,,,,,he's alright
 
R-REG-SR said:
ok you want me to come in an start over again main:laugh:

i'll pm yourself
or pm me a time your good for evening after rush hour and no funny business the po police head quart is right near you,where they watch all the cameras in london:laugh:
theirs also "will" on here londonish thing that he's a right,,,,,,,he's alright
Click to expand...

shup :laugh: id be up for it
 
Go for the heat wrap mate, I've done my entire exhaust system with it, from the manifold to the backbox. Makes such a big difference in sound and power, and looks pretty tidy when you open up the bonnet and see a wrapped manifold. Plus, it's also quite cheap for a roll about 50ft long, which should cover the whole system if you do 75% overlap (Y)
 
micra_dan said:
Go for the heat wrap mate, I've done my entire exhaust system with it, from the manifold to the backbox. Makes such a big difference in sound and power, and looks pretty tidy when you open up the bonnet and see a wrapped manifold. Plus, it's also quite cheap for a roll about 50ft long, which should cover the whole system if you do 75% overlap (Y)
Click to expand...

Be very careful with heat wrapping on any pipework, especially manifolds due to the heat loads. This is something that was covered many years ago, so will probably have got lost in the ether. Not so much an issue with a SS header but this depends on the SS grade used, (I don't think Matt specifies, but I would hazard a guess at 304 as opposed to 321, (better for high temps)). So there maybe a cracking risk but corrision certainly shouldn't be an issue.

Generally speaking, wrapping can cause several problems, (more so on carbon steel manifolds since it is not corrosion resistant). However even on stainless you can have issues. For people who replace headers frequently, (racing teams), this is a non-issue, however for someone who spends a lot on a header and wants a good lifespan, I would only recommend Zircotec coatings with a top colour, (high performance white marks easily). Camcoat only lasts a year or two on SS due to it's higher thermal expansion, (coating cracks off within the first 1" of the header).

As stated this is more so for CS headers, the increased heat within the metal can cause carbon migration and increased oxidation due to the reduced heat radiation, causing a flakey buildup under the wrapping. This, with time, will eventually waste the header walls away, effectively thinning the piping until it no longer has sufficient structural integrity. These 2 occurances were seen on my Janspeed CS manifold. When it was taken off for inspection the headers were severaly wasted and paper thin in places.....it was subsequently disposed of and replaced with a ceramic coated SS manifold, which is as installed in 2005 with no corrosion issues, (except for the forementioned problems). It is now being coated at Zircotec. Similar price to Camcoat but applied as a bonded plasma coating, as opposed to painting and baking.

We've tried everything over the years, so I hope the above is useful information, so you know what you're looking at :)
 
Thanks so much Low Rider, this is why I will not ever risk wrapping my system, I'll just wrap the cold air feed. Simple. No risks.
 
This is fantastic. 104HP with fairly basic mods! Just goes to show how important it is to get your car properly set up.

I also love how standard it looks on the outside, I bet you surprise MANY people!
 
Harlen said:
This is fantastic. 104HP with fairly basic mods! Just goes to show how important it is to get your car properly set up.

I also love how standard it looks on the outside, I bet you surprise MANY people!
Click to expand...

I know, thanks! That was my main aim, no silly plastic surgery on the outside, just pure performance upgrades :p. It is inside the engine that counts the most and embarrasses people big time!

frank said:
did,nt pollyp,s only get 92hp with a cai, janspeed system and nistune tho ?
Click to expand...

I have no idea (I'm new on here!). But when I was with Ed he said some engines randomly get alot more BHP with a remap and some don't. He told me an amazing completely standard K11 1.3 (with completely no modifications!) a few weeks before I got my Nistune, got in the 90's for BHP just with Nistune :wow:! Unbelievable.
 
Yeah polly's made 92bhp.

This does happen, some people get lucky and others unlucky and the resulting extremes between the two can be surprisingly significant.
 
pollyp said:
i have power steering and JUN flywheel
Click to expand...

So do I mate, I have power steering as well (does it make a difference?). Plus my 2.66KG custom made flywheel (lighter than JUN flywheel) will be fitted this week with new Luk clutch! Cannot wait. Will be a big difference for acceleration and do not care about increased deceleration etc, the increase in acceleration disregards all the negatives :grinning:!
 
The pas pump is always pumping the oil so sucking energy especially at high revs.

Jun fly was def worth it for the instant responsiveness
 
FH-5 said:
So do I mate, I have power steering as well (does it make a difference?). Plus my 2.66KG custom made flywheel (lighter than JUN flywheel) will be fitted this week with new Luk clutch! Cannot wait. Will be a big difference for acceleration and do not care about increased decelertion etc, the acceleration difference disregards all the negatives :grinning:!
Click to expand...

I asked MAYES for one of those flywheels machined to the Helix 184mm racing clutch we use. Not heard a peep, so I am assuming that's a 'NO'. I have not taken any dimensions but I think the lightening holes drilled on the outer diameter cause issues with the mounting recess which has an outer diameter of 213.20mm. So is strongly suspect those flywheels are only good for standard sized clutches or uprated items, not for any 'specials' ;)
 
Low Rider said:
I asked MAYES for one of those flywheels machined to the Helix 184mm racing clutch we use. Not heard a peep, so I am assuming that's a 'NO'. I have not taken any dimensions but I think the lightening holes drilled on the outer diameter cause issues with the mounting recess which has an outer diameter of 213.20mm. So is strongly suspect those flywheels are only good for standard sized clutches or uprated items, not for any 'specials' ;)
Click to expand...

Yep, I've got standard clutch, and no need to uprate clutch at all really. I've got a part worn clutch and it has never slipped once, even when drag racing frequently for long periods! The standard Luk clutches are really fantastic, not worth getting uprated clutch unless you're on serious BHP. I have ordered a new Luk clutch kit, so cannot wait to fit it with new 2.66KG flywheel soon :grinning:.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET IT FITTED ON MY CAR? (PREFER A MICRA GENIUS ON HERE TO CARRY OUT WORK!)
 
I opted for a helix racing clutch as I wanted a clutch which was lower in weight, able to stand up to the abuses of the drag strip and track but ultimately to be future proof. I'm nearing the end of the N/A world, (one more build left), so everything was upgraded on the last winter strip down. With around 210lb/ft of capacity it's overkill city, but when I step up to the plate next year we're going to need it and what's planned even this clutch may bite the dust.... Also these types of clutches are easy to replace parts being modular and all, so it's easy servicing as things WILL get knackered...

I'm still running a 6kg flywheel, mainly for driveability reasons, so there's potential to pull more off the current 0-60 ;) You'll enjoy a light flywheel for acceleration and with a stock type clutch it will still be ok in traffic :)

Be sure not to give it too much repeated hard use off the line though, the only downside of a lightweight flywheel is the reduced thermal heat capacity it has. So things can get overheated quite easily if abused...
 
Low Rider said:
Be sure not to give it too much repeated hard use off the line though, the only downside of a lightweight flywheel is the reduced thermal heat capacity it has. So things can get overheated quite easily if abused...
Click to expand...


But surely it is of a very strong material my flywheel? It looks it. What will happen if I did for example 10 1/4 mile runs straight after each other (you've got me worried now :eek:!). I'm sure nothing would happen? I await your reply!
 
FH-5 said:
But surely it is of a very strong material my flywheel? It looks it. What will happen if I did for example 10 1/4 mile runs straight after each other (you've got me worried now :eek:!). I'm sure nothing would happen? I await your reply!
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's a steel flywheel, so it has significantly higher tensile strength then an OEM cast iron flywheel.

Honestly I couldn't say what the tollerance is for a flywheel. My point is just that with less material the flywheel will heat up more easily as there is less mass for the energy gained through the clutch to absorb it, so there is increased risk of warping, cracking etc. Since you are using a standard clutch I would have thought the risks were lower and also due to the decreased mass it will also cool off nicely, so at POD for example you'll have plenty of time between runs for everything to cool off to an acceptable level.

Didn't mean to cause alarm, I just like people to know the pro's and con's before giving the car a good spanking. My only avoidance would be to avoid holding the car on a hill on the clutch, (I used to have a nasty habit of doing that). Otherwise you'll simply enjoy it :)
 
Guy said:
Sounds like a fantastic car :). If you want a real brake upgrade, fit braided stainless front hoses (~£30). I fitted some a fortnight ago and the difference it made was 10x beter than when I fitted EBC turbogroove discs and greenstuff pads. as soon as you even touch the brakes, you feel your bum slide forward on your seat (Y).
Click to expand...

I just ordered some Hels braided stainless front hoses for about £30. I only ordered front, I don't need the back hoses do I? Appreciate your replies in advance :grinning:. Also is it easy to fit? How long would it take?
 
If you need anything fitted of course it can be done at Fusion ;)
 
Guy said:
Sounds like a fantastic car :). If you want a real brake upgrade, fit braided stainless front hoses (~£30). I fitted some a fortnight ago and the difference it made was 10x beter than when I fitted EBC turbogroove discs and greenstuff pads. as soon as you even touch the brakes, you feel your bum slide forward on your seat (Y).
Click to expand...

My word, I just right now had my Hel braided stainless steel front brake lines fitted and what a huge difference! Just braking lightly from 30mph I definately did slide forward on my seat :p! Fantastic value upgrade at around £30! Coupled together with the Mintex M1144's on solid discs, this is one of the most effective and cheap brake options for fast road! Mind you though, the M1144's shower my front alloys in black brake dust just the day after a car wash! But who cares if I can out-brake majority of cars on the road :grinning:! Thanks to Guy for the recommendation!
 
How easy were they to fit? I'm thinking of getting braided brake lines as well, but am unsure of how easy they are to remove, re-fit, and bleed?
 
Check the link in my sig Daniel. On the brakes page - same principal for all cars :).
 

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