Micra turbo running lean

P

pritz

Site Supporter
hello i cant seem to sort this problem out(ihave had this problem for a very long time thats the reason ive kept it off the road but want to get it back on). Basically the car runs at around 14.7 until it warms up the longer the car stays on the leaner it gets and it reach to 21 on the afr if the car is left long enough, this is at idle.

Things ive done so far if changed the fuelpump to a walbro and ive got a modified fuel rail with 370cc injectors and i also puchased an installed a new fuel pressure regulator.

Need help thanks
 
Mapping mate, the current map runs on closed loop so it will always want to revert back to stoich. Although 21 seems very lean for idle even so. Might be a problem with one of the sensors eh...
 
how will my car reach all to way to surrey like this? is there something i can do which will make my car run rich?
 
pritz said:
how will my car reach all to way to surrey like this? is there something i can do which will make my car run rich?
Click to expand...

i doubt if running lean at idle will hurt pritz, as long as its not too lean under power then it should be fine
 
Yes the readings are off the wideband. The lamb sensor is connected I thought that could've been faulty so it had been replaced with a second hand one. Is there any way to check if the lamba sensor is faulty!
 
pritz said:
Yes the readings are off the wideband. The lamb sensor is connected I thought that could've been faulty so it had been replaced with a second hand one. Is there any way to check if the lamba sensor is faulty!
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Not really , but shake it and if something rattles inside that means its gone, my super turbo goes through one a year roughly
 
i decided to take the car for a spin for the first 10-15mins the car was okay but could see that as the time went the afr began rising from 15-16 to 16-17-to 17-18 and so on till 21.8 and at this point the car was stumbling and kept cutting out had great difficulty getting it home :( baz do you have similar symptoms when your lamba is on its way out? also if i were to disconnect the lamba plug what should happen?
 
pritz said:
also wouldnt a faulty lamba cause the car to run rich instead of lean?
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dunno, i tested my "collection" of used lambda,s and a couple of them gave mad readings :eek: so you should be able to tell if its knackered or not
i guess the ecu runs from the basemap if it gets spurious lambda signals,( probably very lean @ low throttle, and very rich @ high throttle)
 
ok tomorrow i will get a volt reader and see what it shows. Another thing i would like to mention is that when i hit the throttle it richens up(prob like a second or so) but if i hold it at a certain rpm eg 2000 or 3000 while driving it will lean out.
 
pritz said:
ok tomorrow i will get a volt reader and see what it shows. Another thing i would like to mention is that when i hit the throttle it richens up(prob like a second or so) but if i hold it at a certain rpm eg 2000 or 3000 while driving it will lean out.
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i would have thought it would run very very rich on the basemap/open loop with those huge injectors personally, but if you have a piggyback intercepting as well then god knows :eek:
 
Im assuming you've got the injectors being adjusted via a ecu or similar unit to make them perform the same as if they were the stock ones. (hope that makes sense).

EDIT : Needs setting in Emanage Blue Parameters.

Just if its running without additional adjustment the stock ecu will be constantly trying to pull back the injectors...again though this assumes the lambda is working.

Not sure how you've got it going to 21 though as even when my 1.6 injectors were running without adjustment all the ecu did was try to pull it down to 14.7 area and then go very rich once driving.

So i can only assume (same as others have said) that the lambda is probably telling porkies. :)
 
Yeah if anything I thought the car would be running rich with these injectors but for some reaso
It ain't also when I had my 1.6 injectors I was getting the same problem
 
The ecu seems to fall back on its default base map. I cant remember off the top of my head, but it'll probably be more likely to run rich rather than lean.

Another thing any vac leaks on the inlet manifold or from fuel pressure reg will allow extra air or fuel to sneak past the maf...corrupting the lambda data and causing the stock ecu to try and adjust.
 
I just went to back to my car unplugged it and started the car and it started at 21.8 and stayed on for like 3mins and cut out I'm going to plug it back up to see if it makes a difference
 
Guessing 21.8 is your max lean...which is usually just air. So unless you've invented something that will make you very very rich. Im wondering if the wideband is still setup correctly. You've ran it through the calibration and everything yeah?.

Emanage blue parameters are setup correctly aswell?
 
The wideband isn't connected to the emanage so it's only giving me readings im not sure what the parameters settings are I will have to check give me a couple mins and I will check.
Should I remove the lamb plug again and disconnect the batt wait 10mins and then try starting?
 
the battery disconnect is just to reset the ecu pritz, but it will probably revert to what you have now after a run, you need to get a fully functioning lambda first really
 
pritz said:
The wideband isn't connected to the emanage so it's only giving me readings im not sure what the parameters settings are I will have to check give me a couple mins and I will check.
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The calibration i was saying just the unit itself...mine for example needs to be out in clean air then told to calibrate, once its done then you can refit it. Im assuming you'd have a similar method?

I'll check the params against mine when you post the info / pic.
 
I diconnected the battery and the lamb plug waited for abit and plugged battery back up and I started the car it started at around but ad I'm typing it has already reached 16.5
 
Just plugged the lamba plug back in whilst car was on and it made no difference and I'm on 21.8 again before I installed the wideband I did a very similar method to what you just said
 
pritz said:
i decided to take the car for a spin for the first 10-15mins the car was okay but could see that as the time went the afr began rising from 15-16 to 16-17-to 17-18 and so on till 21.8 and at this point the car was stumbling and kept cutting out had great difficulty getting it home :( baz do you have similar symptoms when your lamba is on its way out? also if i were to disconnect the lamba plug what should happen?
Click to expand...

I dont know to be honest , Idle goes up and down abit but I have no wide band and the car was mapped 3 years ago , never had any major problems, might be different in your car, the 1 wire lambda in the st really does sweet FA
 
Air flow meter change is ns_hw-5 main unit setting
Greddy pr
Injector change is 145cc to 370cc
Throttle min is 0.52 max is 4.02
 
On the main unit setting info rotary 1 is 2
Rotary 2 is 0
Rotary 3 is 4
And airflow meter 1 in use
Aav value are -,20,2,1,0,
 
pritz said:
Air flow meter change is ns_hw-5 main unit setting
Greddy pr
Injector change is 145cc to 370cc
Throttle min is 0.52 max is 4.02
Click to expand...

First thing I noticed there, injectors are too big emanage blue can only run up to 50% larger than standard (correctly)

Now I know its running lean but this is where Id be looking

I ran 370cc injectors in the st and never ran right, put the standard ones back in it made 25hp extra at the same boost level and ran alot better including idle
 
you need to get someone to set that up, posting all that up here I dont think will get you the right anwsers unless Ed is about
 
Your AFM is different to mine, probably as mines an earlier car.

Throttle difference is just how the cars setup / current temp, so again mine is different.

Only thing is my injectors 148cc x 198cc (i've found 148cc to give better idle etc vs the 145cc which seems to be to low imo)

Not sure if theres a limit or not (i have a feeling there is) to how big you can go vs stock (maybe you've gone beyond?)...but if it was doing the same thing with the 1.6's then i dunno.

Couple of things you can check. Are the injector and airflow tables totally blank, if they have data back it up then wipe them, and are all the twiddle settings on the front of the unit set to 0 ...apart from that the internal jumper settings could be different to earlier micras, but cant say for definate.
 
If this car would stay on I would drive up to ed but it cuts out :( due to it my being mapped would it result in the car cutting out ?
 
i would fit the stock injectors (or ga16 ones) and get the closed loop working (ie, minimum 14.7) then carefully drive it to the tuner of your choice and get them to fit the 370,s and tune to it suit
 
Agree with Frank, stop wasting time and money, do it right the first time and only have to do it once(Y)

Best of luck with it
 
right i had the car at a diagnostic centre to check the car out, it came up with the airflow error so i replaced that and the problem still exists. I was thinking could a bad ecu cause this problem because when i alter the fueling via the emanage the car will run better just for that little moment and begin to lean out it feels like the ecu isnt storing it or something :S not sure
 

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