pollyp
Club Member
heya here's a link to my blogs index for more info/inspiration.
the turbo project started from Sept 2010
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild-blog-index.52496/
when I brought my turbo setup off ebay it already had alot of the prep/fabrication work figured out,
which part's require upgrading will depend on ur target bhp/ftlb and application.
for low boost/power (3psi/90-100bhp), brief acceleration, street driving - the stock systems may handle it fine depending on their condition but as for any engine tuning I'd highly recommend a proper ecu remap (once all the supporting bits are fitted) using like a Nistune via Ed at fusion motorsports to keep the mixtures safe and get the most out of a particular setup.
for a high 10psi/160bhp/160ftlb setup like mine, u start to overload all the standard fuel, MAF, drive train & cooling systems, especially during long WOT on trackdays.
I upgraded alot of preventative measures (better to have too much potential than to run parts beyond their limitations) to ensure a reliable daily 160bhp with occasional long trackdays, ie:
off top of me head the essential core parts of my type setup/use are:
-universal 60mm air filter
-custom one-piece inlet pipes (used to have a few silicon elbows, joints, couplers & pipes but tends to suddenly pop apart)
-recirc BOV from a saab 9000
-t2/t28 hybrid turbo with a 10psi actuator & GTIR turbine elbow
-braided oil feed from the port beside the exhaust manifold & drain lines down to the sump (sump fitting used to be screwed onto the sump but tended to leak, its now welded on)
-long sparco intercooler (bigger the better)
-GTIR MAF
-i think cooler ngk bkr6e plugs
-custom 2.25" exhaust system with powerflow backbox
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-custom fuel rail & reg modded from a sr20de rail
-370cc injectors from a 200sx
-200mm helix organic clutch from matt humphris on a redrilled stock flywheel (used to use the 180mm helix paddle clutch on a JUN flywheel but i didn't skim the flywheel face so it eventually glazed after abit of punishment cos it overheats easily)
-26mm thick stock radiator for an automatic micra (essential for trackdays)
-innovate wideband
the engine was a stock 1.3 but now upgraded to forged pistons.
the turbo project started from Sept 2010
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild-blog-index.52496/
when I brought my turbo setup off ebay it already had alot of the prep/fabrication work figured out,
which part's require upgrading will depend on ur target bhp/ftlb and application.
for low boost/power (3psi/90-100bhp), brief acceleration, street driving - the stock systems may handle it fine depending on their condition but as for any engine tuning I'd highly recommend a proper ecu remap (once all the supporting bits are fitted) using like a Nistune via Ed at fusion motorsports to keep the mixtures safe and get the most out of a particular setup.
for a high 10psi/160bhp/160ftlb setup like mine, u start to overload all the standard fuel, MAF, drive train & cooling systems, especially during long WOT on trackdays.
I upgraded alot of preventative measures (better to have too much potential than to run parts beyond their limitations) to ensure a reliable daily 160bhp with occasional long trackdays, ie:
- keep intake temps down with big intercooler, insulation, teflon inlet manifold insulator.
- upgraded fuel supply with walbro fuel pump & 370cc injectors.
- colder plugs
- LSD to improve traction (big torque will spin an open diff easily)
- Bigger brakes to handle track abuse
- stiffer PU lower wishbone front bush
- Tyres & suspension (increased power & speed is useless/dangerous without control)
- Head gasket (recommend genuine nissan HG cos it's alot stronger than cheap ebay HG)
- Tunable ecu via Nistune daughterboard (after fitting turbo, u can tune the map at any time, starting with stock bits onwards, until the weakest part max's out/fails..then you upgrade and retune. Or another recommended remapping strategy is to upgrade everything at once then remap it)
- clutch (fit the biggest u can to suit the max torque you'll EVER think of reaching or else you'll end up upgrading again unnecessarily)
- radiator (stock 16mm rad can only handle so much continuous trackday heat. an automatic k11 rad is direct fit but a thicker 26mm, can handle 160bhp easy)
off top of me head the essential core parts of my type setup/use are:
-universal 60mm air filter
-custom one-piece inlet pipes (used to have a few silicon elbows, joints, couplers & pipes but tends to suddenly pop apart)
-recirc BOV from a saab 9000
-t2/t28 hybrid turbo with a 10psi actuator & GTIR turbine elbow
-braided oil feed from the port beside the exhaust manifold & drain lines down to the sump (sump fitting used to be screwed onto the sump but tended to leak, its now welded on)
-long sparco intercooler (bigger the better)
-GTIR MAF
-i think cooler ngk bkr6e plugs
-custom 2.25" exhaust system with powerflow backbox
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-custom fuel rail & reg modded from a sr20de rail
-370cc injectors from a 200sx
-200mm helix organic clutch from matt humphris on a redrilled stock flywheel (used to use the 180mm helix paddle clutch on a JUN flywheel but i didn't skim the flywheel face so it eventually glazed after abit of punishment cos it overheats easily)
-26mm thick stock radiator for an automatic micra (essential for trackdays)
-innovate wideband
the engine was a stock 1.3 but now upgraded to forged pistons.
