Ma09ERT prep for install

I am sure you are correct baz. to tell the truth i really couldn't remember which side i check from as i was not next to the harness with the diagram, but there is only one way to check it and have the grounds in the correct position on each connector. i'll take a pic of the #34. gonna send you a pm.
 
Yes but it makes a difference what side mate thats why the pin you think is pin 34 is actually not, if you get me
 
Sleeper you have been fighting with these exactly same thing so i was hoping you could help me telling why am i not fetting any fuel or spark? everything else has succeeded at my swap.. and what are these and where are they going to?
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They come along with the engines harness and so far i havent found where they are supposed to go :(

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its one seven pin and one six pin plug. they are supposed to run under and across the dash from the ecu inside the car. those wires carry signals to the boost gauge from the map sensor, one is for supercharger light, tach signal, one is the switching ground for the solenoid over by the ufo, one goes to or from the ac, there are two orange with black stripe wires for blower and rear defogger, why i don't know, but most importantly there is one yellow wire with no stripe. that is the 12v ignition signal wire from key switch. with that disconnected i don't think you would get the brain to power up, hence no fuel no spark.

i haven't confirmed that yet as i have not started my engine. but i think that is your problem.
 
sleeper said:
its one seven pin and one six pin plug. they are supposed to run under and across the dash from the ecu inside the car. those wires carry signals to the boost gauge from the map sensor, one is for supercharger light, tach signal, one is the switching ground for the solenoid over by the ufo, one goes to or from the ac, there are two orange with black stripe wires for blower and rear defogger, why i don't know, but most importantly there is one yellow wire with no stripe. that is the 12v ignition signal wire from key switch. with that disconnected i don't think you would get the brain to power up, hence no fuel no spark.

i haven't confirmed that yet as i have not started my engine. but i think that is your problem.
Click to expand...


I have to say Thank you very very very much! My situation is kinda awkward at the place where im building this swap, since i sort of promised to leave with the car last thursday, well for my luck the christmas holidays lasted till today :D

But i havent found any plugs to connect these wire jacks even though ive only looked for from the engine bay cause i thought that they are some sensor wires of the engine positions.. where do i connect them inside the car?

Thank you again very much and appreciation and the best of luck with your swap. seems like there arent many who are doing this ma10k10 conversion :) we are sharing the same making of history :D :D lol
 
Nice to see these builds going on :) I'd somehow missed this thread!
 
Tuukka you wont find any plugs for them in the standard k10. going to have to connect them individually. connect the yellow one to the switched 12V that would go to the coil in the k10. you would have to splice this connection as well to send power to the solenoid over by the ufo and to the supercharger light. the other wire from the solenoid goes to the yellow with red stripe, that is the switching ground for the solenoid. the other wire from the supercharger light goes to a black wire (i think), that is the switching ground for the supercharger relay.
there is a pink with white stripe which is the idle up for lights. the blue green one is the idle up for ac i think, splice that in to the wire to compressor. there is a white with blue stripe which i think goes to the speed sensor if you have one in your speedo. i don't plan on using the rest. one is for temp signal to instrument panel and the k10 has that run already, the two orange and black i will not be using, and i condemned my map sensor and electrical gauge for a mechanical one.

Ed, welcome to the thread. Was wondering if you know which wire from the back of the speedo is the speed sensor output. i see 2 of them.
 
I have not mixed the k10 standard harnesses with the ST:s i have swapped the entire engine wiring and car wiring from the half cut. I intended to attach them with the k10 wires at the point where it has been cutted in half. Since it is fairly easy to find out of the rear electrics, theres nothing but rear window heater, lights and fuel level. But it is still strange that i cannot find the plugs where these jacks are supposed to go at their own ST:s original harness :confused: i have found the fog light wires orange/blackstripe and almost all of the ones you explained earlier but they are all around without an alone plug :eek: I suppose i have to lenghten them all to these jacks one by one if i wont find where they were supposed to be.
ByTheWay I got her running today with a sort of jumpwire thanks to you! it wasnt running with all cylinders or thats what it sounded like, already going to find out --->
 
As far as I remember those 2 plugs are located under the passenger front seat and I'm not sure what they are for
 
No I've no idea mate sorry. Also no sign of you having a way to pay me for the parts so I assumed you didn't want them
 
I made arrangements to send the dough through a friends paypal account but i never got the quote buddy.

anyways, i managed to source a vac tank from another nissan engine, looks identical to the one in the vac line diagram, so i'll be firing up with that one and i am making the fitting for the radiator hose today.

don't got far again to go. will post some pics of my install soon.
 
Got the engine running. It idles beautifully. Revs off well.

However, it does not start on its own. I need to put a tablespoon or two of fuel into the intake manifold and then it starts at once. I injected it through the port that would normally go to the charcoal canister.

Anybody got an idea as to what could be wrong?
 
Ed,
I spliced the connection from the engine harness to the temp sensor to send a signal to the temp gauge in the dials using the original k10 wiring. The gauge seems to be reading properly. I guess i could disconnect the spliced connection and see if it starts.

I read some topics on here about the cold start valve yesterday. When i get the engine to start it idles at about 1000 rpm not the suggested 1400- 1800. So i was wondering if that could be the problem? I read that it could be cleaned? And although baz described it and its location i am not 100% sure if found it. What do you think?

I have a question I have been trying to get an answer to and maybe you could help me out. From the back of my speedo, there is a blue wire and a green wire. Does either of these carry the speed signal?
 
Mine used to start and run at about 1000-1200 with no problem. I don't like high speed cold idles (at least higher than needed)

Get me a picture of the speed signal wire. I think its a plug with two wires on it from memory. Even the non turbo K10 1.2 ECC has that in the UK.
 
Yesterday I tried it and it started on its own. It was hesitant but it started about 5 times. I don't know if anything was stuck or is sticky. But I am not complaining.

I will get some pics posted including one of the back of the speedo.
 
gonna try to put up pics of my build so far this weekend.

took the car out for road test. good news its got no leaks whatsoever and starts all the time now. stable oil pressure and vac at idle. bad news its holding back. the supercharger is kicking in and giving 10psi but when i sink the pedal the engine is not building to full power and i dont think the turbo is boosting. doesn't seem to be building past 3000 rpm. not hearing any misses or seeing any smoke coming out the tailpipe.
 
revving off properly in park. making 6500 easy. supercharger cuts out at about 3500 and turbo comes in. just not doing it while driving. ecu green light began flashing while driving then stayed on continuously until switching off. after restarting it came back on after some driving.
 
your ecu is diagnostic mode , turn the dial fully anti clockwise with the key out of the ignition then turn the ignition on (dont start the engine) the red and green light should stay lit, start the engine and they go out. You should get no lights at all while the engine is running
 
oh, i forgot to mention i drove it to work this morning. it just feels hesitant up to 3500 rpm. i managed to coax it up to 4000 rpm then the supercharger light cut out, and the engine pulled excellent under turbo boost. it was awesome!!
 
sleeper said:
baz buddy i am sorry but i dont know/understand which dial you are referring to?
Click to expand...

Were you not talking abot the green light on the ecu?Thats how I read you last post.
Were you talking about the s/c light on the dash man?
 
baz i was talking about the green light on the ecu. yesterday i think i found the dial you were talking about. its on the ecu right? it is currently turned all the way anticlockwise. what's it for? when i switch off and restart both lights are out. only after i get the stumble then it flashes a couple times then remains on continuously until i switch off again.

i realised that my problem only occurs when the engine boosts to 10-11 psi either on s/c or turbo. it feels like the engine is stumbling. once i easy off the throttle and the boost drops below 10 psi it pulls smoothly.

question what boost is the s/c supposed to make max and turbo max on a stock engine?

beginning to wonder about the fuel pressure regulator and wastegate. think either could be the problem?
 
it was suggested to me that the engine is leaning out. the plugs are also clean....too clean.
going to get some help locally to try and sort it out hopefully. until i do, if anyone has any suggestions that may help please do not hesitate to put them up.
hope i dont blow it before i get it right.

regards,
sleeper
 
welll a fuel pump, FPR or injector issue could all cause that. as could something simple like a bad earth. Put a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the inlet side and check your base pressure is OK, and also that you do not lose pressure as you go up in revs + boost
 
duncan welcome to the thread. aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with gauge for sure. the base pressure is 3 bar? and its supposed to go up with boost?
 
Yep it should rise directly with boost, ie 1 bar of boost adds 1 bar(14.5psi).

I don't know the correct base pressure for these motors, skylines run 40psi for reference (with the regulator's vacuum hose off)
 
okay so i got a universal regulator but the fittings for the rail did not match. so i took out the stock fuel pressure regulator and chopped the head off and gutted it. i will cap it and use it just for the purpose of plumbing.
 
plumbed everything up. without vac hooked up the gauge reads close to 48psi when the ignition comes on and the pump primes. but ive noticed that the gauge fluctuates a little when the pump is on and then drops to zero when the pump cuts out before starting. isn't the rail supposed to maintain pressure and hence the gauge maintain the reading? not seeing any gas leak and the engine does not want to start with the intercooler out?
 
It will not maintain pressure if the engine is off as the fuel recirculate back to the tank, no vacuum on the reg while engine off
 
baz i think the rail is supposed to maintain pressure for at least a few minutes after switching off unless the regulator is shot, the check valve in the pump is shot or the injectors are leaking. at least thats what i learned today. have some checks to do to try and isolate the problem.

baz, as far as you know, is the engine capable of starting on its own with the intercooler off?
 
It might, but it will run badly. Don't be alarmed by fuel pressure not holding when off. If it works when on then its fine.
 
got the regulator hooked up correctly.
set the base pressure to 3 bar without vac hooked up.
pressure does not drop when vac connected.
pressure does not go up with boost.
i see that now the engine is boosting up to 14 psi but it is stumbling worse than with before.

took it out. will be looking for another one.
 
baz i get what you are saying but i don't think that the stock reg is working properly either.
furthermore the aftermarket reg would do the same thing as a good stock reg once it is set properly.

right now i just want a properly working reg. after i see the gauge showing what is expected at all times i should be closer to getting the car working as it was meant to.
 
got a good regulator installed. car is working much better.
first drive was to work this morning. dont see anymore flashing lights from the ecu.
i still don't think that it is 100% though.
i sometimes get a sputter over 7 psi. also if i floor it from stop the car is not launching very well.

i will monitor it some more.
 
ok ecu green light still flashes. comes on for a second as soon as the pedal is touched, comes on for a second when it is released, then flashes four times when the engine returns to idle?

any info on the flash codes that the ecu throws?

also i have been trying to figure out what max boost is the engine supposed to reach stock. right now its hitting 11-12 psi and stumbling. i don't know if it is overboosting.

also, does anyone know what octane fuel the stock engine and ecu is set up for? i am using 92 and not detecting signs of detonation.

one of my associates recommended getting it to a dyno, but i think it would be pointless if the ecu was signalling a problem.

so close yet so far away
 
actually....considering the size and complexity of the job I reckon you're doing well :)

the other guys here will know more about stock boost and the ECU errors, but the "stumbling" is likely to be ignition breakdown. Are the plugs in good condition, and what are they gapped to? Are the leads in good condition? I'd try gapping the plugs down to 0.8mm and see if that helps
 

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