K10 with auto transmission

H

hissyfizzy

Ex. Club Member
got the pig running in Neutral and Park but when I try to put into 1.2.D.R the car looses 90% of it's RPM runs very uneven if I try to drive I've got almost no movement and no acceleration infact if I press the throttle down the car will quit.

The tranmission fluid is ok it was ok before the starting issue


Think the carb is definately dead
 
hissyfizzy

sounds like you,ve still got a mainjet problem, the nozzle that sqirts fuel is the acceleration jet, if that is squirting fuel there must be enough fuel in the carb but if its dieing when you open the throttle its surely a mainjet prob
 
K10 to

RTLkyuubi3 said:
does it do the same as what youve said when in P or N?

Ryan.
Click to expand...

No in P and N I will run happily and rev up in 12DR it will stall when rev'd there is nothing it will shut itself down seem to be starving of fuel If not rev'd it will drop 90% of the revs off but still run though uneven and slow

Dont understand the primary jet as it's clear,
 
if the engine is running and revving well when its in park or neutral then it would indicate there is no jetting problem, there is a unit under the passenger seat iirc that adjusts the tickover on an automatic K10 when its put into gear.
 
nice one sonic !
that would explain the tickover drop
it does sound like its running lean to me tho, i would wrap some tape round the air filter, leaving a 2 inch gap, and if it still dies in drive then i give in !
 
The box under the passenger seat is usually quite reliable. All it should do is increase the revs if there's a higher electrical drain, such as heater or lights being turned on. Changing gear shouldn't make much difference.
 
Ah if I turn the lights on the revs drop the have since i got the car, although if I suddenly let of the accelerator pedal to hit the brake the car would judder

So are we back at the carb or the little box under the seat?
 
ye sounds like the box to me., as previously stated when a load is going to be put on the engine wether it be the lights or the heater of even the auto gear box being put into drive, it picks up the engine revs.
 
nissan

Ok I will get the box checked. Anyone got any ideas how much one will be from Nissan ? And what is actually called so I can get one

how do I check it ? or is it as simple as unplug and see if theres a difference or can i do an Ohm test
 
unplug it and see if there is a difference, as Arnold said they are usually very reliable, get to a breakers and get one from there, you should get one for a quid.
 
hissyfizzy

possibly called an idle control module.
iirc my k10 had a wire from the alternator to the autochoke valve, so when you started up the 13 volts would power the bi/metalic thingy and slowly release the choke valve, could this be faulty ?
ie engine dieing through choke not working
 
K10

frank said:
hissyfizzy

possibly called an idle control module.
iirc my k10 had a wire from the alternator to the autochoke valve, so when you started up the 13 volts would power the bi/metalic thingy and slowly release the choke valve, could this be faulty ?
ie engine dieing through choke not working
Click to expand...


Ah haven't found a wire connecting to the choke yet. According to the manual the Idle control module is a solenoid
 
Actually if i remember rightly, there's one system that box doesn't control - and it may well be headlights being switched on. Try it with the heater system and see if you still get a drop. If so, it could well be that - but, check the wiring in the engine bay too - maybe the signal to the carb to increase fuel has been damaged or cut? I've seen it happen (to mine!)
 
100% guarantee that box has nothing to do with your problem.

I am seeing this an awful lot here lately. Jumping to huge conclusions before any logical thought or steps have been taken to approach the problem sensibly.

The carbs are purely mechanical with very small minor alterations from the electronics. If the car is still not running correctly then its definitely carb/fuel related.
 
That's good to read Ed thanks. Got a new carb on order just waiting for it to come through, worried slightly because I have to use the exisiting solenoids so if they're duff then i have to wait for nissan to get some in for me. It's a shame no OEM company does them or at least I haven't found any.

Ed whats the odds on the car running on this new Eco Fuel if they can run NOs LPG would be an option to due to the cost of petrol
 
Update time:

The car is now running in PN Now it's running in D R 1 2 although at 3/4 of pedal the car stutters.

My major concern now is the timing it's advanced to almost the entire bracket, any suggestions appreciated
 
Ok another update :

Fitted the following today

New Carb
Coil
Points
Plugs
Leads
Cap
Rotor
Condensor
Battery
Fuel Pump
Pipes
Carb Gasket

And the car is still stuttering in D12R with no increase in engine speed no matter what the car is starting to test my patience now any advice would help so it looks like it's not a carb fault "oh am I happy now"
 
It is the same as previous will rev in PN will not rev in DR12 if I take it half throttle it will try to rev then drops off as though it's being starved of Fuel

It's now starting to cost an insane amount to fix!! Tomorrow the cables will be adjusted for the new carb.

What will the effect be if the dizzy is going? Will this happen to note the distributor is almost all the way to Advance otherwise it won't start at all but the timeing belt is ok +/- 5 degrees "" It was running before this happened ok though""
 
hissyfizzy

if it will actually drive along in D if you furiously pump the throttle a small amount, then i can,t see it being anything but fuel starvation ?
 
No I've changed the carb for a new one and don't have to pump anymore for it to run unlike the previous carburettor.

In P & N it runs nicely and will acelerate no problem at all put into any gear the revs drop but will not accelerate if the accelerator is pushed around half way the revs speed up by a few hundred no where near as much as if in P & N and then drop right off and stalls the engine
 
How would I know that? The autobox doesn't change lumpy doesn't clunk, if I rev the engine up in N then drop it into D it will drive and change gear .


Sammo has suggested an air leak in one of the smaller vacuum pipes which I will check tomorrow
 
Good news after fitting new vacuum pipes throughout the car now runs and accelerates with a touch of lag. One slight issue to make the car run at any sensible level the distributor needs to be fully advanced+/- 5 degrees otherwise it rattles with no drive at all.
 
Yes the valve timing is correct to +/-1/2 a tooth. Odd thing is the car was running fine till the morning it refused to start no matter what we tried, the distributor was just off centre to advance 3degree
 
I think the only thing you havent changed is the dizzy itself isnt it ? do you know anyone local you could swap it with to rule that out ?
 
K10 autotransmission

hissyfizzy said:
lol


The car now runs just need the emissions done now as I'm not getting anywhere near the mpg when I was given the car.
Click to expand...

I have cured the throttle lag as the alternator belt left the engine bay in a most unsatisfyingly way along with a big pop now there's no lag and thankfully as I don't have the toy battery but a 063 one it got me the three miles home.
 
hissyfizzy

in theory when the alternator stopped, the choke butterfly would slowly close
might this have affected the lag ?
 
K10 auto

Ok enough is enough, went out last night the pig quit again on me so called the RAC who said guess what "it's the carb" after the carb has been replaced. I've had enough of the thing Today MoT runs out so the pig's gotta go anyone wants it let me know

thanks for your advice though but it seems that theres a major fault somewhere which doesn't want to be fixed.

Hissy
 
put a thread in buy and sell with more details....james is after a k10...if your in the yorkshire area that is
 
K10

curtis said:
put a thread in buy and sell with more details....james is after a k10...if your in the yorkshire area that is
Click to expand...

unfortunately no where near Yorkshire plug he wouldn't want this one with it's little problem. I think it's an easy fix just with Christmas coming it's a touch hectic and I'm not paying another £400 to fix it might have to try sending it back to see if they can fix it free

Back to the problem "sensible answers please"

The car broke down Last night by starting to stutter, hessitating and reving up and down finally spluttering to a halt. I was able to keep the engine running just, bit like running on three plugs in the wrong order, to keep the lights going till the RAC arrived, who said "It's the carburettor there's air getting into it." This has just been replaced so I doubt it's the carb, it might be the air pipes somehow but these were replaced.

On the manifold is there any other breather units/core plugs or any associated things which may have failed?

Could it be anything else say the distributor as it's now fully advanced. Till it quit in a most unwelcome way the car ran nicely all be it a bit fast.
 
hissyfizzy said:
"It's the carburettor there's air getting into it." This has just been replaced so I doubt it's the carb, it might be the air pipes somehow but these were replaced.
Click to expand...

Erm, call me silly willy but aren't carbs supposed to have air going in them? Like through the top? I assumed the air box wasn't just for fun y'see =)
 
You could be right on that one Carbs do suck air but where that air comes from seems to be the cause of the problem. I guess if there's too much air the car will switch off as the combustion cannot be made and that seems to be happening

I don't think it's the cylinder head leaking or the inlet manifold because when it does run theres no lack of power also no water/oil loss nor is there the white burning smoke. Seems to lie with the vacuum connections at the back of the carb or the inlet manifold because where the carburettor sits there seems to be another gasket around one inch below the carb gasket under what seems to be an adapter plate the one which I got from the breakers yard also has the same thing.

Frank has suggested the carb is water heated I have no idea if the carb is sucking in water so swamping the petrol or there is a core plug or some other kind of capping thing has failed or worse the manifold has cracked
 
If theirs too much air i'm sure you'd get some detonation or pinking though? I don't know if it applies to non-turbo cars, but on turbo'd lumps when too much air is forced in and not enough fuel, you hear a popping noise which is the uneven fuel mixture burning rather unusually!

As for the water in the carb, i don't understand much about carbs as this is my first carb'd car (i'm an injection man otherwise) but as with anything else if it was sucking water in you'd be losing coolant?
 
hissyfizzy

you,ve changed just about everything now, are you sure theres no blockage fuelwise, rust in the tank/blocked pipe/blocked fuel filter ?
i would take the inlet pipe off the pump and blow down it and get someone to listen in the tank
if it runs when you chuck fuel down the carb still, it gotta be starvation still ?
 

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