help with fuel pressure regulator

Antony

Antony

Ex. Club Member
hi, i have baught a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum pipe atachment, a fuel inlet and a fuel outlet and a guage........ what i was wondering is where the heck do i fit it on the micra engine as the FPR on this car is bolted to the ed of the injector rail...... where does the fuel outlet go to on the car?


and info would be much appreciated.

ps im doing this to try and get rid of the very very big flat spot and engine leaning out at 3-5000rpm.:laugh:
 
antony

i presume it goes into the return pipe, so when the factory one lets out anything over 35psi it has to go through the second valve which will increase the pressure to whatever you set it at
i would think it would only cure a flat spot at high revs but worth a try tho eh ?
 
Why dont you read the instructions? You know this wont solve anything dont you? Anyway you would never have more than one fuel reg on a car or inline or whatever.

Antony why dont you actually sort this properly instead of with bodges?
 
you should have a fuel rail adapter included that replaces the existing regulator...then the fpr sits in place of that return line, if you get what im on about :)

but yeah should all be explained in the instructions...if you have any.
 
right i dont have any instructions, its a universal one of e-bay that cost a fiver..lol


Ed.... we dont all run big companies ya know..lol with a disposable income (well not disposable but you know what i mean) . i have had to change jobs just to get my car through its mot. so yeah, a fix....if its for free the please point me in the right direction. cos i havent a clue.

is there any reason ecu wise or otherwise that would stop this from working?
 
It wont work effectively. Thats what im trying to tell you. The ecu will be in closed loop and will have a hard time dealing with this. But feel free to try anyway.
 
Antony said:
right i dont have any instructions, its a universal one of e-bay that cost a fiver..lol


Ed.... we dont all run big companies ya know..lol with a disposable income (well not disposable but you know what i mean) . i have had to change jobs just to get my car through its mot. so yeah, a fix....if its for free the please point me in the right direction. cos i havent a clue.

is there any reason ecu wise or otherwise that would stop this from working?
Click to expand...

You could always get a cheap Apexi S-AFC 2nd hand from Ebay? Yes it'll only sort out the fueling, not the ignition timing, but its a definite improvement.

My SR is running one that was setup via a Dyno, from 2000-3500ish it adds over 30% extra fuel at high throttle and produced a semi-decent dyno plot from it. This was the best map in order to give the best road performance (peak of torque lower down the rev range):

rockyrr3Medium.jpg


:)
 
Unplug the MAF, if this cures the flatspot try:

if u havnt already tried it, get some carb cleaner down the MAF (£2) and resolder joints (£0).


If flatspot still there after unplugging MAF:

Unplug lamba sensor, again if flatspot cured - take out o2 sensor, clean it up with carb cleaner maybe???? (someone correct me if im wrong) and try putting it back in. would recommend new sensor though for around 60 quid unfortunatly.

If however unplugging neither sensors affected the flat spot then I got no clue, check ignition system (dizzy, sparks, HTs) n all that rubbish maybe
 
rlees85 said:
Unplug the MAF, if this cures the flatspot try:

if u havnt already tried it, get some carb cleaner down the MAF (£2) and resolder joints (£0).


If flatspot still there after unplugging MAF:

Unplug lamba sensor, again if flatspot cured - take out o2 sensor, clean it up with carb cleaner maybe???? (someone correct me if im wrong) and try putting it back in. would recommend new sensor though for around 60 quid unfortunatly.

If however unplugging neither sensors affected the flat spot then I got no clue, check ignition system (dizzy, sparks, HTs) n all that rubbish maybe
Click to expand...

His car isnt standard, its running a few modifications.
 
janspeed, mushroom filter, slightly higher CR (my fault..lol had to get the head skimmed it had been on and off a hundred times)

and ed. i understand your trying to help, and i appreciate this. but again. and im sure youve been told this before. were not all engine tuners. i would like a bit of help or constructive critisism rather than "feel free to try" who does that help exactly?
i would like to know "why" it wont work.. and i have no idea what closed loop is. im not a ecu guy, im a spanners and carb guy. sorry that sounded quite harsh, its just getting to me and costing me lots.

thanky muchly
 
closed loop is where the ecu uses lambda feedback to alter fueling in an attempt to always hit a certain target. if you try to alter this it will correct and remove what you have done.

The only suggestion I really have is to fit an SAFC and do it that way and leave the lambda disconnected so that it doesnt try and correct it. a FPR really wont help you.

rlees85 mentioned disconnect the MAF. Don't do it. Thats the primary load sensor and the car will hardly run/run very badly/run in limp with this disconnected. Everything the ECU does is based on the MAF, far more than any other sensor on the car.
 
okies. that makes sence. i had heard that unplugging the lambda would help, (and when it had the other cams in it did help) and i have since re-plugged it in.

hmmmm....... god i keep having problem after problem...haha

thanks ed.
 
Antony said:
i had heard that unplugging the lambda would help
Click to expand...
If this helps in any way unplugging the lambda sensor on my Almera cured some very strange hesitations I was having but knackered my fuel economy. It was the actual lambda that appears to be faulty in my case though and I've been advised to only get a Nissan replacement (£££) so it's just disconnected for the time being
 
antony

an option might be, fit a switch on your gearstick, wired to the middle wire on the lamda sensor so you can switch it off when you floor the car, then back on for the rest of the time
but i believe the ecu goes open loop when you floor it anyway (ed would know ye or nay)
 
Not always on the K11's. They are closed loop almost all the time.
 

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