Fuel or Ignition ?

Well, if the car is dieing because of a bad connection to the pump then the light would go off just before the car dies. (make sure its somewhere right in your face so you cant help but notice it going off:D)
make sure you let us know how you get on and once again fingers crossed for you (Y)
 
Hmm I have just been out and drove round for around 6 miles and so far had no faults, it went yesterday after 3.5 miles so maybe we are getting somewhere.
I have the bulb all wired up and taped nr switches in dash so it's unmissable :laugh: Think I;ll take it for a longer run in the morning and see how we go,not sure if the car has to be running for the exchanged ecu to set itself up or if it just needs to be plugged in long enough.
Well will let ye know what happens tomorrow.(Y)
 
R-REG-SR said:
:laugh:use it or loos it:laugh:
ignition switch isnt suposed to get that hot either
Click to expand...

Have I missed summat here :eek: switch gettin hot ?

Think we could be getting somewhere at last, done a good few miles now and it has not died. I need to sort the rough running next but at least it's useable so far. I have tried doing the timing with a strobe gun but it is still very rough (mainly in 1st or 2nd) so I doubt that I have it right. Is there a guide or summat to doin the timing as I still aint got the haynes yet, just in case im missing something.

Line up pulley marks..
rotor is at no1..
loosen dizzy..
connected strobe..
start car and check mark..
tighten dizzy..
take for a run then re-check.
all looks ok but as I say runs rough so deffo something amiss. Sorry this has dragged on for so long but at least im making progress :laugh: and I appreciate all help given so far, amazing how much ye can learn when ye have to.
 
Youve gotta disconnect a connector iirc its the plug on the left hand side of the throttlebody (when looking at it from the front)...dont have my haynes handy or id double check...but pretty sure thats the plug.
 
solarice said:
Youve gotta disconnect a connector iirc its the plug on the left hand side of the throttlebody (when looking at it from the front)...dont have my haynes handy or id double check...but pretty sure thats the plug.
Click to expand...

yes, the throttle position sensor, and only at base idle too eh
 
ahh right so disconnect the tps then redo the timing, what do ye mean base idle frank ? is it not base idle the way ive been doing it.
 
hmm not so easy then eh. well just did it again with the tps unplugged but im timing it up when the car is just ticking over, how you spose to get it right if ye aint got a rev gauge then
 
a stock cg will stall at around 400rpm ian, so a tad higher than that eh :grinning: (it does,nt need to be bang-on 600, just low enough to be off the map i believe)
 
Cheers frank, one last question (honest) can I lower the idle on this like I can on my auld fez ?do they have a screw to adjust or are they all sealed. I have a haynes on the way at last so at least I wont have to keep asking silly questions:laugh:
Will get it tickin over as low as I can and then set it all again and see how I go, btw do you think it is timing ? just that the rough running started after me cleaning the injectors with carb cleaner.:blush:
 
yes mate, there,s a black plastic allenkey screw on the o/s/r corner of the t/b (it bleeds air past the butterfly) :grinning:
 
ignition switch gets hot when its deteriorating (internals giving up) this happened to me and was not able to touch it due to the heat it was giving of
upon changing it-----it stays cool to the touch.sorry to side track your thread but this is well worth grabbing from scrappers as mine is a 97 micra and the switch wore out.got one from a facelift--wow the micra needed a facelift:laugh:
realy admire the way your stiking with it and not just giving up
 
Must admit I was losing the plot with it today, feel so close now to having it sorted but just cant seem to get it running right. It has not died on me for a couple of days now but that only covers around 15 - 20 mile all in. Had a few goes at timing it up and no change.. real rough and lacking power in 1st an 2nd, then was told I had not taken off the tps when timing it up and that it had to be around 600 rpm. So off I go again... had a spot of trouble trying to turn down the tickover , when I adjust the allenkey screw it does drop the revs then all of a sudden it speeds up again just cant seem to catch it right.
I left well alone after 2 or 3 attempts as I started getting a little annoyed:laugh: I wont give up untill it's running proper even if I have to get someone to sort the timing, I saved it from scrapman cos it was a nice nippy runaround and the 5sp is better than my daily drive mk1 fez with 4sp which gets a little loud on motorway miles.
So tomorrow is another day and I will try again but if ye have any tips on getting tickover low enough to time it up id be grateful.
 
Hi Humph, I hope i'm not stating the obvious here but the sequence I went through to time the car was:

Engine off:

Loosen dizzy bolts
disconnect TPS, attach timing light to ignition cable 1 (nearest timing chain on left of engine)
Check all electrical ancillaries are switched off (interior fan, dome light, radio etc)

Turn engine on:

Wait until its warmed through - when warm enough the revs drop suddenly to a low idle. Idle with TPS disconnected is 600rpm, rather than 650 when still connected.

Rotate dizzy to adjust timing to 15 degrees BTDC. This is the second mark on the pulley from the back of the engine bay, which might be marked very faintly in yellow.

tighten bolts, recheck, turn off, detach timing light and reconnect TPS etc, etc...

I hope that's not stating the obvious - just there were a few things you hadn't mentioned which might affect the idle speed. I think the Haynes manual also mentioned stopping if the fan kicks in and waiting for it to stop before continuing to adjust the timing.

I'm watching this thread closely as my car is also suffering a mystery power-loss illness!

Regards,

N
 
Well I think I may be getting somewhere at last, did the timing again just as described above.. and have been out today and clocked up a few miles. Not had any problems with it dying or anything so, so far so good. It is still a little "slow" in 1st n 2nd but once it reaches 40 ish it seems to run a lot better so just have to run it for a while and hope it's the ecu settling in or something.
Think I can finally put the rear seats back in anyway:laugh: If all is ok in a few days then think I will give it a service and might even wash it. So fingers crossed...(Y)
 
Been using the micra for a couple of days now and it aint died once, BUT even after playing with the timing again it is very sluggish.. mainly 1st n 2nd but does struggle to get over 45 - 50mph lol. Just wondered if this could be the ecu change and it still remembering settings etc or have I another problem lurking.
Anyone have any ideas/suggestions, ones that dont include petrol an matches please.
 
solarice said:
Id have thought the ecu should be settled in by now. Hard to say...mmm what are the spark plugs like?
Click to expand...

Hi Lads,
had guests over from ireland so not had chance to get online much, anyway I changed the plugs and leads yesterday and it is still running really rough. It feels like it needs something to go bang and clear itself :laugh: if that makes sense.. I also bought a new rotor so will fit that today, am I missing something here ? someone mentioned that the disk inside the dizzy did need to be lined up and I haven't done that.. I just swapped em over when I got the replacement so how do I go about checking that ?
Any help would be appreciated, it does get from a to b now .. just slowly lol.
 
i doubt if anyone has touched the optical disc ian, and it keyway,d anyway, is it running on 3 or missfiring or just sluggish ?
 
Hi Frank,
it's real sluggish mate very low power and takes a while to get upto 40 ect bit dodgey at some junctions when ye wanna get out sharpish. It did have a problem on lead 3 so I changed all the leads and put new plugs in but it's still the same. It's drivin me nuts now but at least its not dying anymore.
There is no missfire or anything it will sit there tickin over happy enough it just has no power, like i say it feels like it needs summat to go bang and clear itself.. thats the best i can describe it.
 
anyone any ideas please lads.. could do with sortin this lack of power. Any thoughts or info welcome :laugh: only just managed to get it on ramps.. no power in the thing
 
no mate, should it make much difference ? im outta my depth really but cant afford garage bills. Sorry this post has turned into a essay
 
HuMpH said:
no mate, should it make much difference ? im outta my depth really but cant afford garage bills. Sorry this post has turned into a essay
Click to expand...

np ian, some of the members with coilpack engines have posted that the car ran better with the maf disconnected when their maf failed (then they fitted a new maf and were sorted)
worth a try imo :grinning:
 
not a big difference with the maf disconnected maybe little worse.. I took of the leads 1by 1 while on tickover and on number 3 there is no difference with or without lead also it is the only plug that is not black (rest are covered..very rich) if anything it looks like it's done nowt.All plugs are new and done about 70 mile, I played about with a compression tester but not really sure how to use it correctly.Anyway on 1 it showed at 30 same on the others except no 3 which was between 20 -25, like I say not really sure of the correct routine to do a proper test. Car is useable but only just very little power in 1st an 2nd seems ok once ye hit 40 and is not overheating or throwing out smoke.
It did go slightly better with the old dizzy back in but not much, Im ready to give up with this now tbh.
 
throttle boddy dead
i had 3 runing on the old 1.0 lx changed dead throttle boddie cured me
see if you can get someone to swap theirs (scrapies - just tell em youll buy it if its that might even have to check 1-2 as even the scrap one might be faulty) for a quik chek if its that
 
well had no luck finding a different throttle body to try but the car has got a little better. It is still low powered but has picked up slightly, I did notice that the new plugs are very black already so it must be running really rich. I have finally ordered a haynes lol so will have a read through that next week when it arrives.
The car has got more useable and main problem now is steep hills or coming down the gears as in turning into a side road in second say and the car is painfully slow to pick up if that makes sense..so do you think a new throttle body will cure that ?
 
I'm very, very sorry HuMpH!

I've got my car fixed.

I really sorry HuMpH - the advice I gave you was wrong. The yellow mark on the pulley indicates TOP DEAD CENTRE not the ideal timing advance. The Haynes manual is a little ambiguous and I was reading the marks the wrong way round.

Do as I wrote before (disconnect TPS, switch off electrical ancillaries, etc) then rotate the distributor towards the windscreen until you are aligned three marks from the yellow spot towards the front of the car (this should be the second spot back from the front of the car) this should give you 15º BTDC.

The marks run from back to front:
- 5ºATDC
- TDC (yellow spot)
- 5ºBTDC
- 10º
- 15º (ideal timing)
- 20º

I had a local ex-Nissan mechanic do this for me and my car now runs as sweetly as it ever did.

I'm really, really sorry for misleading you and I hope this fixes you car like it did mine....

Apologies,

N
 
Hey no worries.. I was just pleased to get any ideas from members that was worth trying.
Glad you got your car sorted and I will give what you say a try once the rain stops lol. Tbh it does feel like the timing is out so ya never know..

Thanks for updating the post anyway, just hope it gets dry soon.(Y)
 
Noddie said:
I think i have a throttle body you could try, if you wonna pay postage then your welcome to give it a go...
Click to expand...

dont forget that generous offer to HuMpH
aye hold on a minute that user name? it seems familiar,whats going on um getting confused???????
 

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