Dyno charts for my super s

Antony

Antony

Ex. Club Member
here you go everyone, the dyno chart and the AFR chart too...


ignore the torque graph..lol and its power at the wheels plus about 15-20bhp for flywheel bhp.

so 75.5 at wheels is 90.5bhp - 95.5 at the flywheel... not bad from 76bhp stock.

this is why i need it mapping... see the drop in torque?.. thats where the engine isnt running on the info its recieving, but on a map thats pre-set by nissan. so i needs ironing out, and my fuel pressure needs upping as the car is running lean. very lean.. eeek.

should be able to see just over 100bhp after mapping. and over 120bhp with the head and cams...mmmm

so then, red is dangerously lean, blue is where the ecu takes over and actualy reads whats going on.. so starts to get better, but green is where it should be.. and its nowhere near...GRR
 

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Ouch, thats a bit dodgy. What are you running it on, standard ecu map and no custom fueling or anything? My SR has an Apexi S-AFC which seems to help with the fueling side of things. I'll try and get some dyno charts up soon (once Dan sends them to me) :)
 
Not replied to your email yet, but I can tell you now due to the rpm enrichment on the K11s e-manage is not a nice solution. Its much better to get the ecu remapped.

BTW your power is 'at the hubs' not at wheels. You would get less at the wheels due to tyre loss. So probably around 68-70 ish at wheels.

Blue isnt where the ecu takes over. The ecu is always in control, and thinks it is doing right (obviously due to your mods its not). By the way yours is no different to every other K11 with these mods. They all do this but very few are aware about it, and for a full throttle power run that entire graph is too lean, including the blue bit, in fact even if it was in the green bit, that is still too lean. Theoretical max power is at 12.8:1 in reality its usually around 11.8-12.5. This does of course mean there is a huge area for improvement. I did something very similar this weekend on a friends P11 primera. I fitted a GTI-R ecu and remapped it to suit his car. It really did make a good difference.
 
so what do you suggest givving that i allready have an e-manage and that im going to be adding cams and a "gas flowed" head.??

please..
 
Yes remapping stock ecu will be around £320-350 but will do the job perfectly.
 
do you do megasquirt or any other ECU stuff...

right then.
i am re-building my engine tomorrow. new head, new cams, new cam chain and pulleys, new oil and filter, new coolant, new park plugs (irridium) new injectors (1600) new throttle body (1600) powder coated rocker cover, nismo solid engine mounts and new head gasket set.
what i want to know is will the engine run untill i can get it mapped ed and can you map it with this setup?

whats the cheapest way to go and whats the best?

i am willing to pay and i am a customer. this is going to happen i just want to know whether i can actualy drive it or if i have to wait till its at least got a little "map" going on...??




thank you soooo much ed...
 
erm. not sure realy, although there is no harm in having a little more fuel available even i it doesnt need it.

with the Avanti cams (that i am fitting right now with the head on the drive-way..lol) what power range should they be from and to?

i cant find any specs for them anywhere.



so what im doing now then is...
solid engine mounts, (gonna be a pain to release the rubbers from the cast metal)
Newa head (thanks raceworx) with avanti cams
new timing chain kit including new tensioners and pulleys,
new ngk iridium spark plugs (all £6 of them..lol)
might paint the head red. and then do some engine bay tidying while im at it.
it justn started peeing it down, so im gonna have to wait an hr or two to get back to it.. grr... gotta take the sump off next, then the crank pulley,..... then the timing chain cover... then gotta fit it all back together again. GRRR
 
To remove the old mounts you can take a blowtorch and set fire to the old rubbers. Fitting the new ones, make sure you remeber which way around the old ones were...washing up liquid inside the metal mount and then gently tap around the edge of the bush until it slides back in.

Though by now youve probably got them sorted :)
 
Antony you can run the car on that spec, and best option is to remap the stock ecu. That will do everything you need perfectly.

Ed
 
perfect.... did i ever tell you i love you...he he..



ive just managed to get the head off the car.... GRR

inlet maniifold was a basket to remove.
i havent taken the sump or timing chain guard off yet.. but its all looking good, there is no "lip" at the top of the cylinder wall... the top of the pistons in all cylinders are clean. the new timing chain kit actualy looks a lot better than the nissan stuff, (its all heat treated on the teeth of the sprokets and the tensioners are much better machined and have much harder compound plastic.)
cams are out of the new head so i can bolt it on...... (inspected the head bolts and they are the same length as a set of new ones so they dont stretch... ill be using them again...)

i may have a bash at getting rid of the "casting" marks inside the inlet manifold cos they dont half get in the way...

oh and the engine mounts... i cut them out.... from the inside then bashed them with a chissel.... slid the new ones in, (wich are about 1" lower too.... hmm centre of gravity???) so all is looking up.

should be ready...erm.... next weekend... (only time i have off)
wish me luck.!!!
 
if the new chain kit isn't a genuine one, could you please tell me where you got if from and how much, cheers.
oh, and good luck;)
 
ebay my friend.... type in "micra chain" and it will come up, after you order it they e-mail you with what engine you have then it takes about a day.

reason i did this is cos we no longer have a nissan dealership near us, (lincolnshire) as all of the Dixons motor group garages have closed down.
 
Antony said:
ebay my friend.... type in "micra chain" and it will come up, after you order it they e-mail you with what engine you have then it takes about a day.

reason i did this is cos we no longer have a nissan dealership near us, (lincolnshire) as all of the Dixons motor group garages have closed down.
Click to expand...

cheers for that :) never seen em on ebay before.
 
i'd get the new head skimmed before you put it on for peace of mind tbh, i know i'd rather not have to take it off again if it was me
 
it shouldnt need it, after all, it came off a cg3de that was running, and is going on another running cg13de.......

plus there no-one anywhere near here that does this..

there is no engineering places, no pipe benders, no custom exhaust places, no engine tuners or body workers..... nothing... its like the goby desert out here....
 
Antony said:
it shouldnt need it, after all, it came off a cg3de that was running, and is going on another running cg13de.......

plus there no-one anywhere near here that does this..

there is no engineering places, no pipe benders, no custom exhaust places, no engine tuners or body workers..... nothing... its like the goby desert out here....
Click to expand...

agreed, the engine it came from had only done about 50k aswell. just check the tolerances(sp?)(it should tell you in a haynes manual) with a straight edge and feeler blades just to be sure.
 
For any performance engine you would be foolish not to have them checked (as well as the block) for straighness. a very light skimming is not a bad idea.
 
Antony said:
there is no engineering places, no pipe benders, no custom exhaust places, no engine tuners or body workers..... nothing... its like the goby desert out here....
Click to expand...

make your own place up and get some money in then sounds like you area needs it
 
yeah....£50 from where?........... no one can do it.

if i did have it skimmed i would have a bit taken off.... like 0.5mm higher CR
 
lol, DOH........... well there may be a couple of engineering places i havent heard of...lol

thanks dude..
 
right then, its all re-built. ready to start........ only one problem

got everything torqued up correctly and fitted where it was before....... and started to fill with oil...... no problems.... alls good

now for the coolant....... CRAP its pooring down the driveway. now i never ever touched the water pump once..... yet its now leaking like a trooper all over my nice clean engine bay.. GRRRRR thats £15 of coolant down the drain, (or drive)

any ideas? could i have knocked it? or could it be something else. (and yes ive connected the throttle body hose..lol)

ok, its not the water pump. its the metal return pipe behind the housing, seams to have dis-lodged out of its housing.......... how is it sealed??

does anyone know? can i just bung a load of silicone around it?... how do i re-fit it?.. etc etc

i am in desperate need of info guys as its the british super bikes at cadwell park tomorrow and monday and my dad cant get his bike past my car..lol

im also off to harrogate on tuesday wednseday and thursday..... and need my car.

can you give me any ideas??? im stuck as i didnt even touch this bleedin pipe..lol
 
you must've touched it as it's bolted onto the thermostat on the other end of it. you can buy the rubber 'o' ring for the end which goes into the water pump from nissan for a few quid i think. there's one bolt under the inlet manifold and one into the thermostat housing.
 
thats no good. cos we dont have a nissan garage arround here anymore.... the nearest one to me is 93miles away.. GRRR

ill use some sealant.... after i take the bleedin inlet manifold off AGAIN!

thanks dude.
 
well got it running, just..

it splutters, farts and is getting very hot...... and i think one of the tensioners isnt working... AAAARRGGHH

right, it turns over, then after some major throttle prodding its splutters into life, but if you floor it it dies. then if you slowly press the throttle the exhaust pops like a rally car and the engine revs like normal, allbeit a little hot.......do you recon (appart from ignition timing) that i have the exhaust cam a little out of whack and its spitting raw fuel into the exhaust????

i managed to get it to drive up the driveway from the road where i let off the throttle and again it died...... taken the cam cover off and alls well, theres no "bits" and the oil is nicely getting to all the important parts........................



the major problem i had was with cam timing as i didnt have any references to work from. the cams, head, pulleys, chains where all new, so couldnt mark them up for position.
me and my dad (an engineer for VOSA and an ex turbo-technics mechanic too) guessed it on TDC, with cams for cylinder one at this position


\______/ so that it was on compression stroke. all the other cams seamed to line up correctly with their respective cylinders.....

and i am actualy amaized that it started at all..lol


what should i do guys??




compression test revealed 110psi (ish) on all 4 cylinders. this is below the recomended minimum of 11 bar. but my dad recons its cos ive got a high lift over lapped cam and the CR will be out at low RPM.

the other thing thats bugging me is that, the new chain, pulley and tensioner kit that i fitted isnt tensioning the upper chain. its slacker than the first one, and that did 107,000 miles.

im confused. whats going on cos i realy need my car. realy realy need my car!!!
 
well immediately the low comp should ring major alarm bells. 110psi is FAR too low. You have timed it up wrong. You will need to do all this again.
 
dont drive it anymore untill you find the route of the problems!

slack chain means it could jump teeth and kill your engine straight away, strip it down and check every last thing, dont think something is ok just because its new,
 
damn.....

on well, at least its top end and not bottom end..haha

2 re-builds in 2 weeks...lol

i hate doin stuff myself..
 
sorted. my dad did it for me while i was in leeds....

the exhaust cam was off by 2 teeth and the inlet by 1 tooth...

started first time with 18deg advanced timing and runs superb, timing chain is nice and tight and the engine idles at a health 700rpm.

cant wait to drive it.

thanks guys!
 
woohooo its fast, not as fast as it was before at around 2200rpm, but after 3500rpm, it keeps picking up getting faster and faster untill i hit the rev limiter...

i did a little trick i got from ...erm... (dang sorry matey forgot your name white micra with stainless manifold and nos from jae) i unplugged the lambda sensor....... makes a big difference to engine pick up..

but i realy need to get it mapped..lol
 
Antony said:
woohooo its fast, not as fast as it was before at around 2200rpm, but after 3500rpm, it keeps picking up getting faster and faster untill i hit the rev limiter...

i did a little trick i got from ...erm... (dang sorry matey forgot your name white micra with stainless manifold and nos from jae) i unplugged the lambda sensor....... makes a big difference to engine pick up..

but i realy need to get it mapped..lol
Click to expand...

Low Rider?
 
That would be him, Now antony, you need to drive it here for a full remap :)
 
£320. The hardware is quite expensive, however future remaps if needed are alot less.
 

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