the blue wire to the dizzy, or else pinout number 2 on the ecu is the tacho signal kev
thanks chaps, ill get on it asap. gotta fit a bee*r limiter as well
heres a pic of me drifting
-
Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
Dattosan Machi Suzuki twincam 4wd project pg22
- Thread starter Machi san
- Start date
thanks chaps, ill get on it asap. gotta fit a bee*r limiter as well
heres a pic of me drifting
so some more progress today.
first i started with the idle control valve. i drilled and tapped the ports to m16 and made up some m16 take offs. these have a 7mm hole through them.
then i removed the throttle body and pulled the 4mm vacumm take off out. i drilled and tapped the hole to m8 and made another take off with 7mm hole through.
only probs is the hole into the throttle body is tiny and i dont think its bleeding enough air
then i soldered and head shrinked the injector plugs for the qg injectors
heres some pics of the fuel system, i think figaro tank is the future though
putting back together
idle control valve is cable tied in position, you can kind of see the plumbing
i think the idle control valve needs some adjustments, the idle is set where i want it at warm engine temps so i will see how it starts from cold tomorrow. iam not sure if i can drill the hole out in the throttle body because it is very close to the butterfly and may break through the wrong side.
i drove it around the field for 10mins and all appeared to be good, did some handbrakes and j turns for fun. cant wait to get an mot and then get back to the rollers
first i started with the idle control valve. i drilled and tapped the ports to m16 and made up some m16 take offs. these have a 7mm hole through them.
then i removed the throttle body and pulled the 4mm vacumm take off out. i drilled and tapped the hole to m8 and made another take off with 7mm hole through.
only probs is the hole into the throttle body is tiny and i dont think its bleeding enough air
then i soldered and head shrinked the injector plugs for the qg injectors
heres some pics of the fuel system, i think figaro tank is the future though
putting back together
idle control valve is cable tied in position, you can kind of see the plumbing
i think the idle control valve needs some adjustments, the idle is set where i want it at warm engine temps so i will see how it starts from cold tomorrow. iam not sure if i can drill the hole out in the throttle body because it is very close to the butterfly and may break through the wrong side.
i drove it around the field for 10mins and all appeared to be good, did some handbrakes and j turns for fun. cant wait to get an mot and then get back to the rollers
i would its just insurance i think ill hang on till im 25. gutted tho i got one ages ago for £120 i had it for 6months but the guy that had the garage i was working at was a t*** and made me get it out of the garage while i was working on it in my own time so i told him what i thought of him and almost got in a scrap with him :kungfu: so i walked out and had to sell it:down: got £150 for so covered the cost of moving it lol. quite fancy doing a rwd conversion on the k10 but ill hang fire and get it running first then make my mind up lol. got to say reading your blog always boosts my motivation to get on with it (Y)
haha dogs in stripped cars for the win
the swirl pot works faultless, its pretty good and iam happy with it. but as you say its the decluttered look i crave
tbf iam better of leaving it as is because if i decide i want a turbo at any point, i have the fuel system to cope with 300hp ish :wow:
i need to worry about more important things like mot and wheel fitments
the swirl pot works faultless, its pretty good and iam happy with it. but as you say its the decluttered look i crave
tbf iam better of leaving it as is because if i decide i want a turbo at any point, i have the fuel system to cope with 300hp ish :wow:
i need to worry about more important things like mot and wheel fitments
Yesterday I successfully managed to drill out the idle control port in the tb from 2mm to 6mm and polished out any burrs in the bore of the body. I then disassembled and cleaned the control valve. I believe its working well now, will no for sure when its stone cold.
I also made a bracket to hold the airbox steady.
Mot jobs now
I also made a bracket to hold the airbox steady.
Mot jobs now
Good work! Tacho signal is blue wire from dizzy. Otherwise, yeah, pin 2 at ecu (same wire different end).Idle control works from cold. No throttle, just turn the key
i couldnt get the bee*r too work so i removed it. now the car appears to limit at standard limiter :glare::suspect:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drZd4r9t95c
does that sound like stock limit to you chaps?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drZd4r9t95c
does that sound like stock limit to you chaps?
frank
Club Member
yes kev (Y) does to me
frank
Club Member
i did,nt work right on this current red car kev fwn (it made a sound like valvebounce at about 7k, but there was no sign of contact when i stripped the 1.0 engine
but it worked fine on my previous blue k11 (8 or 9k)The matiz shocks are in the scrap already. They wouldn't go low enough for me so I decided that I wanted to see if the inserts were removable. They are not though so never mind. Atleast I know what the inside looks like
I removed the rear shocks and fitted new springs that are held captive by the shocks, so maximum bump travel, no loose spring and restricted droop.
Then I rewelded the axle brackets on to look tidier, stronger and the ride height that I desire.
Next up is makw an adjustable panard rod, adjustable trailing arms, new front shocks and a heavily tucked exhaust system
I removed the rear shocks and fitted new springs that are held captive by the shocks, so maximum bump travel, no loose spring and restricted droop.
Then I rewelded the axle brackets on to look tidier, stronger and the ride height that I desire.
Next up is makw an adjustable panard rod, adjustable trailing arms, new front shocks and a heavily tucked exhaust system
Is the standard rev limiter in the way Machi?
It seems the rev limiter removal trick has mixed results depending on the car, (prolly age and ECU related), as this trick was something done back in the rally days on the early cars. Complacency of having a pre-nistune piggyback board on the K11 ecu and now an Omex has lead to me never bothering to check this out since we've been able to set the limiter to whatever we need.
Frank seems to be doing ok with his setup and IIRC is still under the standard limiter?
Once completed that K10 is going to shift plenty. K10's are light as and with a good tuned CG13 in there it certainly wont hang about!
Yeah man is quick anyways and will be mental with high comp 1311cc engine with headwork and cams lol.
By pre nistune do you mean you have an early ecu that can be chipped without nistune board? Mines an L reg ecu!
Stock engine on webers made 98hp at 6450rpm. It's did do 60 in second and now its on the limiter at 50
By pre nistune do you mean you have an early ecu that can be chipped without nistune board? Mines an L reg ecu!
Stock engine on webers made 98hp at 6450rpm. It's did do 60 in second and now its on the limiter at 50
Yeah man is quick anyways and will be mental with high comp 1311cc engine with headwork and cams lol.
By pre nistune do you mean you have an early ecu that can be chipped without nistune board? Mines an L reg ecu!
Stock engine on webers made 98hp at 6450rpm. It's did do 60 in second and now its on the limiter at 50
Mine is a 94 also. What I mean is Ed was remapping my car way before any Nistune solution was available for the K11 ecu. We used a daughter board from Japan which used a pair of eeproms and requires emulators to live map the car. Once done the images are then burned onto the chips. A very long winded way of doing it but that's what was available back then. My car was very much a developmental model....
There is now a Nistune solution for the K11 that works and is being used by several members here. We opted for a standalone as we went outside the capabilities of the standard ecu.
thanks for the info. looks like i may need nistune eventually
thanks mate
(Y) thanks mate (Y) ill get some better pics today. i want to get some more camber on the front wheels next
no not founs a relay just yet. one of the breakers on ebay is in walsaw and collection only so thats a bit far tbh and the other is down in cornwal which is also a prefacelift model and not too far away
hopefully ill have one in the next day or so if not ill send you a pm, thanks mate (Y) your a star (Y)
same mate i live in devon but i have been driving slammed cars for years and you tend to learn the best routes and where the bumps ect are lol
hatchbacks are easiest cose they have minimal overhang infront and behind the wheels.
i have some scuffs on my sump and fuel tank so iam going to have to make up some sump and tank gaurds
