Corsa piston build with throttle bodies

I dropped the piston on the floor, and damaged it, tried taking it off the rod in the press like before, with heat, and it shattered

So lost my temper and beat it with a mallet


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Anyone know the part number/name for this O-ring?

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Blaasaaaaafjgfhdhdh!!!

Why am I having such trouble with this last piston, the other 3 were fine, this one yet agin had got stuck here whilst putting it on,

If I apply any more pressure with the press, I feel the piston will crack like last time.

Suggestions?


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187e12fa6773767fe4feb7fc558ac3cc.jpg



Blaasaaaaafjgfhdhdh!!!

Why am I having such trouble with this last piston, the other 3 were fine, this one yet agin had got stuck here whilst putting it on,

If I apply any more pressure with the press, I feel the piston will crack like last time.

Suggestions?


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You tried heating the piston in an oven and freezing the pin in the freezer before trying to put them together? The pin will just slip in........
 
Seal the pin in a plastic bag, (prevents moisture on it) then leave it in the freezer over night. Heat the piston in the oven to about 200C......
 
Right
I've moved the pin to where it should be, but it's really stiff to move the piston. It's fine
When warmed up

Do I need another piston


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Thinking about the exhaust now.

Wanna use either the polo or 106/Saxo manifold.

Any suggestions on which would fit better?

Polo

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106

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I wish I had gone for the Polo one instead of the 206. That's more to do with space (mini conversion).
A 4 2 1 is apparently better for lower down the rev range than a 4 1.
So the Polo will be better for a road car but the 106 will be easier to modify.
It would be handy to get a cardboard template of each of the flanges and offer them up to the head to see how close the port spacings are. Or buy an exhaust gasket for each and then sell them on Ebay when you are done with them.
 
sorry that wasn't very clear was it! VW egr valves have a stainless link pipe. if you look on eBay for "vw egr pipe" it'll come up. You buy two and lop the flanges of and the flanges are an extremely good fit to the micra exhaust flanges. ill try and find one to explain
 
That's a good idea. I was lucky enough to get a one piece one CNC milled in stainless.

It still bent when I TIG welded it but I managed to straighten it on the press.
 
Thinking about maybe just bolting this to a k11 to see if it'll work, before I find a k10/pao

K11's are silly cheap now!!

Would the standard ecu work with throttle bodies, or would i still have to use a stand alone ecu


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might be worth trying the stock maf mounted inside a smaller aperture neil, so that it replicates the same sort of signal as the 60mm stock housing
 
Hmmm, tempting.

I need a gearbox and other bits for the k10........but can get a whole k11 for less than the cost of the parts

So would it just go inside one of the tb's?


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Cool......Il need to measure up the k11 bay first......the manifold was made with the k10 in mind

So might not fit a k11 with the brake servo where it is


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Yeah, think that'll do it mate


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I put a saw drift in mine and used a sash clamp. Yours looks much closer. If I was doing mine again I think I would heat it and bend it as welding the branch back up was a pain.
Also worth bolting to a BIG chunk of steel to stop the flange bending. I didn't and had to use a press to get it straight again.
 
Can anyone measure the space between the head and the bulkhead on a k11 for me?


None of the scrappies round here have any micras
So can't measure stuff


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Had a quick go at the manifold today......ran outa stainless wire

Lined up ok, had to slice the right tube a bit to get it to bend, apart from that, bit of brute strength and lined right up

Need to do some dremmeling on the inside of the tubes to get the edges smooth

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Can anyone measure the space between the head and the bulkhead on a k11 for me?


None of the scrappies round here have any micras
So can't measure stuff


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Can anyone do this for me?


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Can anyone do this for me?

hmm 10" from back edge of cam cover as it starts to curve downwards from the top surface to the raised seam on bulkhead, so 11" ish to bulkhead in the centre, 12" where it curves a bit around the servo bulkhead area.
 
Had a quick go at the manifold today......ran outa stainless wire

Lined up ok, had to slice the right tube a bit to get it to bend, apart from that, bit of brute strength and lined right up

Need to do some dremmeling on the inside of the tubes to get the edges smooth

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Have you checked this on the engine? Looks like it will hit the bell housing maybe?
 
Yeah, loads of room, can fit at least 2 rizla papers between them

Is a bit snug!



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Think it'll be fine

The cg10 flywheel I got from frank has had loads taken of the back of it, so plenty of room there, other than that , not much else the heat will affect I guess


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I
Think it'll be fine

The cg10 flywheel I got from frank has had loads taken of the back of it, so plenty of room there, other than that , not much else the heat will affect I guess


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I was thinking more of heat transfer into the gearbox, via the aluminium bell housing.............
oil seal being the first point of concern.....
 
Need a pre face lift cg10 g/box, anyone got one?

What year do they go up to?


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That was with it fully out.

What should I be looking for with it fully in?


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you have to see if you can hump the chain up 1 link with the tensioner fully back neil, like this ----^------ but on the sprocket
 
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