Boot security?

Gurpreet

Gurpreet

Ex. Club Member
Say you have some serious sound in the boot and want it to stay there...

The other day... these two cars got done over.. and the guy with the speakers in the standard shelf... they took them. The guy with the stealth shelf... his shelf was fixed down hard so despite the broken glass... they just couldnt lift the shelf off and take it... or may be they did not have the tools (cordless jigsaw anyone?) or time? It was damaged though...

Any howwwwww so is the standard lock good enough or would a crow bar do the dirty deed? Just a little worried... even with a stealth shelf... already have bonnet and boot sensors wired to alarm...
 
Not sure about the K11, but it took me less than ten seconds to pop the lock on my K10 when I locked meh keys inside. :glance:

Basically these days if a professional wants to get into your car, he will get in, end of subject. Alarms, etc are just a way of making your car slightly less attractive. Plus, the whole point of exterior mods is to make your car stand out from the crowd a little, but this means its also more noticable, and generally modded cars have modded interiors which means uprated sound systems, hence fairly attractive to your average thief.

But to answer your original question, not sure about a crowbar, but a screwdriver could probably break the lock pretty quickly, best bet is to make sure the car has a good shock sensor on it (the kind that goes off if you kick the car tyre) and stealth shelves are always a good idea!
 
Basically shelves with a cover over the top to hide parcel shelf mounted 6x9's. Theres a really good guide on making them for full members.
 
Ah predy obvious now I think about it ^_^. I have 6x9s but my micra is un-modded body-wise so it doesn't attract ANY attention :D. I considered a stealth shelf but it seems a pain to haveto remove the cover when I get in :).
 
Use security screws (or something different like Torx) to bolt down your amps/subs/false floors/etc.

Makes it difficult for things to be taken. With regards to stealth, if its a good enough shelf, it shouldnt get noticed anyway.
 
cheers guys

any tips on making a false floor?

6mm MDF? or more?

and how exactly would I screw it down... Id have to thread the base of the boot and drill into right?

Retepetsir I was browsing your ICE pics and noticed the screws...

Please enlighten

The amp I have can fit under the front seat but if I did place it beneath the false floor then how would I go about cooling the base?
 
I dunno how everyone else has done it, but i'd make a frame out of two by one (bigger if you wanted to put more inside it, 3 by 2 or 4 by two) a simple box frame with a triangular bracket to help strengthen it. Then use at least 6mm mdf - question of weight versus strength at that point.

Fit internal hinges to connect the ply and the frame, then carpet the top of the ply. If ya want to be fancy you can also sort out a hidden lock/latch for it. Planning on doing something similar when I get to the re-carpeting stage with meh car :D

As for cooling the amps, you could always get some quiet computer fans and place them into the frame work pointing under the backseat or something (bit hazy here as im not sure on how the K11 is laid out) run some cabling from the the ignition on for your sound system (either from the amp itself, or run it along the footwells to the front of the car) this should circulate the air and help keep it cool.

When I get around to doing mine, hopefully within the next two months or so, I'll take a whole load of pics and do a guide.

Edit:

Oh, if you do go hunting for computer fans, check the power supply, as far as im aware most internal fans run at 12vdc but you can find a few that run at 8 and some that run at 16.

Oh, plus if you do more than a simple box frame and get it to completely fit the boot, it should be pretty undetectable to peeps who dont know micras fairly well, plus it would be very difficult to get out due to combined weight and the awkwardness - specially if the carpet is attached (glued) to the mdf, all without the need to drill and screw into your car.
 
Unless amps are a tad weird, I woulda thought the reverse was true :D Electricity conducts better at lower temperatures = faster, better connections. Thats why all of the current research in super conducters is done with sub-zero systems, and trying to find ways of porting that into home systems.

Just look at anyone whos into overclocking their computers, all they are concerned about is how much they can cool the system down so it doesnt fry. Oh, on that note, sites like overclockers.co.uk might have some useful stuff on cooling systems for the amps etc.
 
Yeh I would have thaught so too, I believe I'm thinking of OLD OLD amps... :doh:
Also 120mm fans look huge and noisy but they are quiet and shift alot of air, I decided to use them in my latest pc and it's very very cold and quiet.
 
120mm is a tad big to fit into the framework, id reckon the largest you could get away with is using two by four, which works out at about 100mm tall, any larger than that and it would start to get pretty heavy and would probably become obvious.

But you could fit in a whole load of 80mm internal computer fans (probably a row of about 10 of em) specially if you used some metal brackets to support the wood work. That should shift a pretty decent volume of air :p
 
goldstar0011 said:
I used to have a simple false floor in my SLX when it was broken into, still have the same equipment in the Golf now! :D
Click to expand...

If you're on about the one I made, then no thief would have off with it as it was 1 VERY VERY awkward to fit in due to a very tight fitting design and 3 with amps in it was respectably heavy
 
Right, I used 10mm MDF, as I wanted to use the boot at times for other things (quick and easy to remove subwoofer box).

I've basically used some 2 x 1 battons around the edges and accross the center on the bottom (metal) of the boot. This is bolted down to the boot floor, but I have learnt recently that Gripfill also does an equally good job and saves drilling holes in the floor). On top of this I've screwed down some 6mm MDF which is the lower section of the floor.

To this I've then screwed my amps, crossovers, power distribution blocks, etc. Also on this base I've screwed down some 2 x 3 battons, around the edges (screws go right down to the bottom battons for maximum safety and support).

This now gives me a box in which all my equipment can be placed, on top of which I've cut out the top MDF floor (10mm) which provides enough support for heavy weight in the boot, including the subwoofer box.

For cooling, although I've never had an amp cut out due to overheating (stays quite cool under the floor as there are ventilation holes in each corner at bumper level) I've used 2 x 6mm computer fan's at each end of each amp, 2 pushing air and 2 pulling which gives me a nice airflow.

The fans were just from ebuyer (a while back, only about 50p each) and these are wired into a relay setup which is used to turn on my amps, crossover, boot illumination lights, etc. When the headunit is switched on, the REM then activates the relay to give power to the necessary equipment.

Most computer fans are 12vdc so should be fine. I've also fitted a fan speed controller, just to slow them down a little.

Electronics tend to run well at 'normal' temperatures, however valve amps particularly benefit from being warmed up for 15 minutes before they sound their best.

Yes, if run hard then car amps can run rather hot. Class AB amps tend to run hotter than Class D as they are less efficient and draw more current. However, most amps nowadays have a thermal cutout option, so if you push them too hard, you just need to wait for them to cool and they should switch back on again.

You also really dont need that much cooling. My old setup didnt use cooling (3 big amps) and that was fine :)
 
the whole point of exterior mods is to make your car stand out from the crowd a little
Click to expand...

If I ever get a stealable car, I'm tempted to stencil the reg number in large letters on the roof (Banksy-style of course) so the police can find it easily in their helicopter!
 
how would I wire the fans in?? can i get a basic diagram please? use windows PAINT... thanks... no expert on wiring...

I was thinking of reverse polarity when I thought.. all you have to do is turn the fan around :p

did you make a flap for access to the spare tyre or have you removed this??
 
most computer fans use an iso connector block, just cut this off and wire it into your amps power supply, this means they'll only turn on when the amp is on.

Novatech Computer Fan

Heres a link to a website that sells em fairly cheaply, and its got spec pages to give ya exact details on things like airflow, voltage and current use.
 
Krian said:
most computer fans use an iso connector block, just cut this off and wire it into your amps power supply, this means they'll only turn on when the amp is on.

Novatech Computer Fan

Heres a link to a website that sells em fairly cheaply, and its got spec pages to give ya exact details on things like airflow, voltage and current use.
Click to expand...

The power to the amps is always on, you'll need to use a relay system.

I'll sort out a diagram at the weekend, I'm off out soon.

Ebuyer is the cheapest place for things like fans/lights.

Edit: Thats a silly price for a cheap fan!!!

Try here:

http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/sear...catUID=1291&strSearch=8cm+fan&bolShowAll=true

6cm fans are 32p, 8cm are 46p, 9cm 46p, LED fans for under £1, etc :)
 
:p K, so you found cheaper fans, i only looked for a min or so :D

Plus, didnt realise amps were always on - never installed one before! Dont they drain the battery power then?

Oh, and for cheapish prices you could always check out the job lots and wholesale section on fleabay.
 
May not be relevant to your car, but my Dad, who has a K11, said he had the remote boot unlocking lever (which is to the right of the drivers seat, on the floor in pre-facelifts) disconnected, as many thieves know its there and only have to smash the window to get into the boot in a couple of seconds.
 

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