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they just stop the pin shifting instead of circlips eh, widely used i believe, VW beetle,s etc, the CG are 18mm interference fit rods and the toyota 18mm floating eh :)
 
Theres no circlip in the glanza pistons i have so assumed its a press fit too....
ahh, maybe just the aftermarket glanza rods are fully floating then eh (the ones on ebay)
are the pistons full skirted stani ? or slipper ? (slipper,s are awkward to mount in a press eh !)
 
Thats close though aint it? (40+1.5+1.5= 43) the big end diameter i assume is minus the bearing thickness :)
depends if the listings posted up are outer dia or inner dia eh stani, i saw one online that said 46 for 5te and 43 for 4te iirc.
if the glanza crankpins are 43mm its bad news
 
15 microns :eek: we have a tolerance of 20 microns when calibrating machines that make turbine blades for jet engines...
 
Enuo ive thought that but i dont think the corsa pistons will be tall enough or the correct compression ratio.
4mm short, but flat topped eh stani, mine was a bit laggy at mallory tbh (7.5 or 8 :1 c/r is just too low nowadays) i,m gonna try it with a CGA3 crank next, which should raise it to about 9:1 iirc
and 1.0 or 1.2 corsa,s have bugger-all aftermarket stuff (forged pistons etc) as do K11,s
 
I hate that i cant edit posts now lol what CR do you think i should plan for, i was thinking 8.5:1?
sounds ok for high boost eh stani, this stock CGA3 is a lot more snappy than the low comp corsa one was, i,ve got 2 freshbuilt high comp (1.0 piston) engines i want to try out next week, that,ll test out the new hybrid fire-rings eh ;)

P5261077.JPG
 
Spoke to agra and they said the conrods will work fine so ive bought and paid for a set of forged conrods and arp big end bolt set :D they quoted £20 a side to remove 0.5mm off the rods so 8 sides to do im looking at £192 inc vat :O so in total £557 for the rods to fit. Might see if i can save some money on them somewhere
jeez ! they know how to charge stani, they will lay all 4 onto the magnetic table and surface grind the 4 together), and under the gasket on the closed block engine, and over the gasket on the other engine mate (both 1.0 piston 1275,s)
 
jeez ! they know how to charge stani, they will lay all 4 onto the magnetic table and surface grind the 4 together), and under the gasket on the closed block engine, and over the gasket on the other engine mate (both 1.0 piston 1275,s)

do you think it will change the CR that much then? when compressed how thick do you estimate the HG will be?
 
do you think it will change the CR that much then? when compressed how thick do you estimate the HG will be?
the 2 steels layers in the mls CR10/12/14 gaskets are 10" thou/.25mm when crushed ed (20" thou uncrushed) but when torqued down it gets crushed into the CG gasket, so same thickness, just more pressure where its needed
an alloy head has some degree of "give" ( a lot more than a cast iron diesel head for instance) ,and the highest clamping forces are down the 2 sides eh, i tried a 3" thou feeler all around the head/block joint, so the oil and water galleries should be fine, time will tell :)
 
the 2 steels layers in the mls CR10/12/14 gaskets are 10" thou/.25mm when crushed ed (20" thou uncrushed) but when torqued down it gets crushed into the CG gasket, so same thickness, just more pressure where its needed
an alloy head has some degree of "give" ( a lot more than a cast iron diesel head for instance) ,and the highest clamping forces are down the 2 sides eh, i tried a 3" thou feeler all around the head/block joint, so the oil and water galleries should be fine, time will tell :)
You seem to think of everything! :D
 
The thing is that stani played with the map so it might have no det'd if he had left the map on that the mapped made but since he tweeked it, it might have been too much for the engine.
 
I realised that once you linked the above lol the mapper had all the right gear (obviously) so possibly it was that extra 600rpm i gained and me ####ing about. And i wont be putting boost near the next engine until its mapped (like before) This time ill be able to show him how to get around the issues he had last time
Get some knock ears stani.
 
I wouldn't recommend it, that's alot of work you've got planned if your wanting to match the head up with the bore. A slight bur in your work would ruin the head. Plus you'd be changing the combustion chamber shape
 
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