the pre-facelift 1.0 has a 160mm clutch innit all the others are 180mm
Use the 180 one you've bought that's the right one
Use the 180 one you've bought that's the right one
unique look car,,all good,,,,started a blog page?
have you checked pollyp,s blog niko ? there is probably a how-to on there
very busy at the mo but when I have time, I'll try write a guide
Wow, dat guide. But now I'm feeling like it's impossible for me again since there's sooo many steps and I have problems with understanding some of them, mainly what they mean in finnish :/
Nooo that's just an air filter snorkel. Not to worry
sorry to bother your mate, I need to change the three engine mounts, where should I start off jacking from? I have blocks of wood at hand and the trolley jack, but am unsure wheter to jack from beneath the gearbox, or jack from the sump or jack from the middle bar that the lower mounts hooks onto.. need to be sure before starting to undo engine mount.. dont want any foul mistakes.Tools
Parts
- Trolley jack n stands
- Preferably engine crane with rope and special bracket to support gearbox
- Chisel or flathead screwdriver & hammer
- Philips screwdriver
- ½” ratchet or breaker bar
- torque wrench
- 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 32mm sockets and spanners
- needle pliers
- emery cloth or file to clean dowels
- split pins
- graphite powder or copper grease
- gearbox oil if old oil is dirty
- zip ties
- loosen front wheel nuts
- jack front up with trolley jack under the front wishbone rear mount and place chassis beam on axle stands
- remove the ½” drain plug under the gearbox and drain gear oil into a clean pan (1/2” ratchet/breaker bar) (if oil is golden and clean it can be reused, if its dirty black then replace), refit plug once empty.
- disconnect battery (10mm spanner)
- remove battery tray (12mm socket)
- loosen clutch cable end locknut (10mm spanner) and loosen the thumbscrew till the bracket is slack and can unhook the bracket off the clutch arm
- push the clutch outer cable backwards and sideways off the cable support bracket
- remove clutch cable support bracket (12mm socket)
- unplug starter motor connections (12mm & 10mm socket)
- remove starter motor (14mm socket & extension)
- remove gearbox top breather pipe
- unplug the neutral gear switch connector at top rear of gearbox
- unplug reverse switch at end of gearbox
- unplug grounding wire from gearbox casing at the back just above the LH driveshaft
- unscrew speedo outer cable off the gearbox (22mm spanner or by hand)
- unclip the engine loom from the rear engine mount bracket at back of gearbox (flathead screwdriver)
- remove front wheels
- remove the hub centre dust cap (with a chisel or flathead between the lip of cap and the hub)
- remove driveshaft nut split pin (pliers)
- apply brakes to lock hub (either wedge a pole between seat & brake pedal or ask a helper)
- remove driveshaft nut (breaker bar & 32mm socket)
- release brake pedal
- unclip brake hose from strut support tab (flathead & hammer)
- unbolt ABS cable from strut support tab if fitted (10mm socket)
- remove front caliper (12mm spanner), ziptie to the strut
- remove pads
- remove brake carrier from hub (17mm spanner) (wipe dirt off the pad clips with brake/carb cleaner till its shiny smooth)
- remove disc
- unbolt hub from strut (17mm socket)
- pull hub outwards and separate driveshaft off the hub (turn the steering when needed to allow hub to move out enough)
- separate inner driveshaft from gearbox by levering a flathead on the groove feature of the inner CV (NOT the thin metal cover shield at the ends of the CV joint) against the gearbox casing (there’s a small notch groove at bottom of casing to stick the flathead through) to overcome the spring clip at end of the shaft. Then remove driveshaft
- support the rear of the gearbox with trolley jack
- place a block of wood between the sump and the lower middle support beam
- disconnect gear selector rod from gearbox (12mm spanners)
- remove rear mount through-bolt (14mm socket) and gear selector stabiliser rod
- unbolt rear mount bracket from gearbox/engine (14mm socket & extension)
- remove LH mount through-bolt (14mm socket)
- remove LH mount from gearbox (14mm socket)
- lower the jack so the block of wood is supporting the engine against the middle beam
- support the weight of the gearbox:
- with a crane and levelling hook bracket (most relaxed & safest method for person & gearbox and easy to carefully position n slot gearbox into dowels) http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-49#post-508870
- trolley jack underneath (risk of slipping off and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
- rolling dolly underneath (tricky to align dowels during fitting)
- back breaking labour (big risk of dropping and damaging input shaft and tricky to align dowels during fitting)
- unbolt gearbox from engine (14mm socket & extension)
- jiggle & separate gearbox off the engine block dowels, always keeping the input shaft aligned to the crankshaft till they separate
- remove gearbox
- replace thrust bearing (clean and apply fresh lube to the sliding surface with graphite powder or light smear of grease)
- lock flywheel starter ring against engine block with a piece of metal
- undo the pressure plate bolts half-turns in a star pattern (12mm socket)
- check flywheel face. If deeply worn, tapered, scored or damaged then get it resurfaced (13mm socket)
- clean flywheel face and new PP face with brake/carb cleaner
- use clutch centre tool to hold the new clutch plate centre to the PP
- bolt the PP assembly to the fly in star pattern then remove alignment tool
- clean/sand the gearbox locating dowels so gearbox can slide in easy
- optionally fit the gearbox/engine splash plate (I left mine off cos its not essential and makes gearbox fitting a PITA)
- lift gearbox up into position
- slot the input shaft into the clutch plate always keeping it aligned to the crank
- rotate the gearbox till the dowels line up and jiggle it in so the dowels secure the gearboxes position
- bolt the gearbox to the engine
- fit LH mount
- fit rear mount bracket
- clip engine loom onto rear mount bracket
- fit gear selector rods
- fit drive shafts into gearbox (use a dab of grease to keep that end spring clip centred on the shaft)
- fit drive shaft through hub
- bolt hub to struts
- fit discs
- fit brake carrier to hub
- fit pads
- fit calliper
- clip brake hose onto strut
- attach ABS cable to strut
- apply brakes to lock hub
- tighten drive shaft nut to spec
- release brakes
- fit split pin
- fit hub dust cap
- fit wheels
- connect gearbox reverse, neutral and grounding wires
- fit and wire up starter motor
- fit gearbox breather pipe
- fit clutch cable support bracket
- fit clutch cable onto support bracket
- fit clutch cable end onto clutch arm
- screw clutch cable thumbscrew all the way up
- lower car onto floor
- tighten wheel nuts
- remove airbox to access the speedo hole
- unbolt and remove the speedo unit off the gearbox (10mm socket)
- stick pipe & funnel into the speedo hole and fill the gearbox with 3L oil (reuse good old clean oil or fresh oil) (can use the engine dipstick down the gearbox hole to check fill level)
- fit speedo into gearbox
- fit speedo cable to gearbox speedo
- fit airbox
- fit battery tray
- fit battery
- start engine and select a gear
- check and adjust the clutch cable thumbscrew till the clutch bite point is half way
- tighten the clutch cable thumbscrew locknut
sorry to bother your mate, I need to change the three engine mounts, where should I start off jacking from? I have blocks of wood at hand and the trolley jack, but am unsure wheter to jack from beneath the gearbox, or jack from the sump or jack from the middle bar that the lower mounts hooks onto.. need to be sure before starting to undo engine mount.. dont want any foul mistakes.
thanks mate,
Ian - Malta
Thanks man, come to Malta and let me show you around! Will do them today one by one. Already have it on a stands from the rails, so you simply jack where you want to relieve to get that mount out.jack the car up by placing trolley jack head under the lower wishbone rear bush mount and then rest the chassis rail just behind it onto axle stands.
now to replace each engine mount you remove the nut and just need to lift the jack bit by bit just enough to support and relieve the shearing load off the bolts till they're slack so they're easier to remove.
to relieve the RH mount - under the sump
relieve the LH mount - under the gearbox
relieve the rear mount - a straight edge under the rear of the gearbox
View attachment 37271
So rear mount jack at the back of diff to chuck the bolt outyou need to support the back of the diff ian, because that rear mount stops the engine twisting when you power on or off.
so take-up the weight of the diff, then jack it slightly till the long bolt becomes free
aye, then the 2 bolts on the alloy bracket ian, which are usually mega tightSo rear mount jack at the back of diff to chuck the bolt out
Thanks frank, one last thing cos im doing the mounts right now, should I be using a torque bar when putting things together? Or by hand tighty?aye, then the 2 bolts on the alloy bracket ian, which are usually mega tight
How the heck do you undo the rear mount bolts? Theres not enough space for a spanner..aye, then the 2 bolts on the alloy bracket ian, which are usually mega tight
lift the diff up ? lower the cross member ?How the heck do you undo the rear mount bolts? Theres not enough space for a spanner..
But not the whole crossmember when having jacked only from the differential? Cos I ve lowered the cross member by undoing 2 rear bolts but still the bolts on the mount are not budging..tbh im getting the feeling that the same has happened to them like the wishbone bolts cos they feel kind of elasticy, its either that or the goo and dirt on the bolt is giving that feelyou,re ok to remove the 2 rear bolts ian, then let it drop down a few inches
progress report ian ?But not the whole crossmember when having jacked only from the differential? Cos I ve lowered the cross member by undoing 2 rear bolts but still the bolts on the mount are not budging..tbh im getting the feeling that the same has happened to them like the wishbone bolts cos they feel kind of elasticy, its either that or the goo and dirt on the bolt is giving that feel