what did you do to your micra today ?

round my way it's like every single day ££30 thousand$$ plus cars, k11 make them put they chits away .k11 playing up some pipe tunes then sends em on they way . nothings really personal though that's how some pagans stay.

round the wayz k11 want to spit out barbs of the taze.leave em on the floor shaking plus piswin down der legz
 
Nope not replaced the ball joints, to be honest if the ball joint was that worn I would replace the whole wishbone. After snapping one on WRGB, these will be lifed items now anyway.
 
i can understand for your type of rallying (seen the vids its terrible punishment)

i been changing the both of them a few times now, want to do ball joint expeditions now :)
 
Went for a drive with my mate in his 5 door k11 road rally car.
Used to much fuel on the limiter all night but well worth it! Best roads in Wales.
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to remove the ball joint i had no problem. Took the wishbone off set it on the bench and with different sockets pushed it out with a hammer. to put the new one in did the same thing just use the rim thats meant for pressing it with a socket.
 
Machinehead said:
Broke the Philips mp3 player I bought/fitted the beginning of October 14 - back to Halfords soonish......
Click to expand...

Well, that was simples! Ring the branch - lady says come in with it and the receipt and any packaging. Pops down there, guy plugs it in to their display board and lo and behold it doesn't work, so gave me a new one from stock, plugged in and away we go. Couldn't have been more then 1/2 hour. Second time that I've been back to Halfords for warranty claims and had no hassle with either! :)
 
Doneloads over the weeknd, will update later. But a question, should battery voltage drop below 9v when cranking? Got a new voltmeter installed and can see on cranking volts drop to qbout 9v even 8.8v and car just about starts runs fine at 14.4v when running apart from a bit of a misfire.... Time for a new battery?
 
SuperUno said:
Doneloads over the weeknd, will update later. But a question, should battery voltage drop below 9v when cranking? Got a new voltmeter installed and can see on cranking volts drop to qbout 9v even 8.8v and car just about starts runs fine at 14.4v when running apart from a bit of a misfire.... Time for a new battery?
Click to expand...
stock compression matt ?
 
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Gave her a proper deep clean, fitted my rev counter dials too!
We've also discovered the clutch is slipping, and we've still got the check engine light on. Note the GA16 airbox too :)
 
skymera said:
Just do it! :)
Click to expand...
"The biting point comes higher,
they operate by a movable pressure plate attached to the flywheel with a gap inbetween.

inside that gap sits the clutch disc on the end of the gearbox spline.

if everything is getting thin and worn, you'll only need to move the clutch pedal a little for it to release the plate."

That makes sense.
Lowering the biting point is basically a bodge to fix it?
If the clutch is wrecked then I'd rather just have it replaced now than put it off and replace it later.
You've got to remember this is serious instrument of performance now I've got a GA16 airbox on it
 
I keep reading about these ga 16 air boxes, what's the craic on these ? improved performance ? noisy ? better economy ?
Come on .....spill the beans :D better than a cone filter ?
 
MaxK11C said:
"The biting point comes higher,
they operate by a movable pressure plate attached to the flywheel with a gap inbetween.

inside that gap sits the clutch disc on the end of the gearbox spline.

if everything is getting thin and worn, you'll only need to move the clutch pedal a little for it to release the plate."

That makes sense.
Lowering the biting point is basically a bodge to fix it?
If the clutch is wrecked then I'd rather just have it replaced now than put it off and replace it later.
You've got to remember this is serious instrument of performance now I've got a GA16 airbox on it
Click to expand...
It's most likely ill adjusted.

No point wanking £50 on a clutch and fitting it if you can just adjust the bite point.
 
MaxK11C said:
"
Lowering the biting point is basically a bodge to fix it?
If the clutch is wrecked then I'd rather just have it replaced now than put it off and replace it later.
You've got to remember this is serious instrument of performance now I've got a GA16 airbox on it
Click to expand...

adjusting the bite point is a standard routine maintenance on all cable clutches cos they're not self adjusting, much like bicycle cables.
ignoring cable adjustments tends to lead to misdiagnosis, poor gear selection or premature release bearing & crankshaft thrust bearing wear
 
I expect so, where though...don't know.
Easy enough max, under the bonnet on the right hand side as you look at the engine from the front. Get some-one to de-press and release the pedal and you will see it operating, then study it and you will work it out bud, easiest of any maintenance operation.
That's the only reason I can do it LOL.
Locking nut and adjusting nut ...that's all.;)
 
davyboy said:
I expect so, where though...don't know.
Easy enough max, under the bonnet on the right hand side as you look at the engine from the front. Get some-one to de-press and release the pedal and you will see it operating, then study it and you will work it out bud, easiest of any maintenance operation.
That's the only reason I can do it LOL.
Locking nut and adjusting nut ...that's all.;)
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks. Will try that when I can!
 
easy peasy.
just loosen 10mm lock nut,
turn the thumb dial at end of clutch cable to adjust tension thus bite point,
turning CW away from the end = increase tension = raises bite,
turning CCW towards the cable end = reduces tension = lowers bite,
check bite point with engine running, it should be 1/4 - 1/2 way up from the floor,
tighten lock nut. done.

and here's the working clutch arm
 
Huggy444 said:
Much better than a cone filter supposedly :)
Nice and cheap mod, does work, proven on the dyno
Click to expand...
Had a look at my local scrappy web site, loads of 1.5s any good ? or has to be 1.6 ?
Noticed as well another tacho speedo on a micra, do I need another???? that would be 5 or 6 I think.
 
Went to go and fit the nav foot rest properly and sort out some wire routing but it's freezin, rainy and windy so I've been sat here for half hour doing nothing hahaha
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Looks like my new panel!
Driven her to Reading (for work, off to Autosport show soon), started up MUCH better with new battery. So fast i couldnt see a voltage drop on the voltmeter.
However the mis-fire is still there, was fine until fully warm. Its really intermitant, and usually worse on part throttle. Full throttle giving it beans she still goes like @&£: off a shovel. But part throttle it a misfire or hestitation. I am thinking TB or ignition based (due to heat) dodgy HT leads or dizzy cap. They are less than six months old, but a make i havent used before so cant comment on how good/bad they are.
Any ideas? Or is it a cas of replacing bits and trying it out?
 
SuperUno said:
Looks like my new panel!
Driven her to Reading (for work, off to Autosport show soon), started up MUCH better with new battery. So fast i couldnt see a voltage drop on the voltmeter.
However the mis-fire is still there, was fine until fully warm. Its really intermitant, and usually worse on part throttle. Full throttle giving it beans she still goes like @&£: off a shovel. But part throttle it a misfire or hestitation. I am thinking TB or ignition based (due to heat) dodgy HT leads or dizzy cap. They are less than six months old, but a make i havent used before so cant comment on how good/bad they are.
Any ideas? Or is it a cas of replacing bits and trying it out?
Click to expand...
Have you tried replacing the condenser on your dizzy. We used to have problems with them failing when warm on older cars.
 
SuperUno said:
Looks like my new panel!
Driven her to Reading (for work, off to Autosport show soon), started up MUCH better with new battery. So fast i couldnt see a voltage drop on the voltmeter.
However the mis-fire is still there, was fine until fully warm. Its really intermitant, and usually worse on part throttle. Full throttle giving it beans she still goes like @&£: off a shovel. But part throttle it a misfire or hestitation. I am thinking TB or ignition based (due to heat) dodgy HT leads or dizzy cap. They are less than six months old, but a make i havent used before so cant comment on how good/bad they are.
Any ideas? Or is it a cas of replacing bits and trying it out?
Click to expand...
I'm off to Autosport sunday, see you there? :p
 
There isnt a condenser is there in the dizzy?

Still had the same problems driving to NEC

Now all setup in the MSA Stand, one of the first stands you will see from the main entrance.

Yep will be there on Sunday giving autosolo rides in my Blue MGZR (KG &@ LGK) come over for a free ride.
 
SuperUno said:
There isnt a condenser is there in the dizzy?

Still had the same problems driving to NEC

Now all setup in the MSA Stand, one of the first stands you will see from the main entrance.

Yep will be there on Sunday giving autosolo rides in my Blue MGZR (KG &@ LGK) come over for a free ride.
Click to expand...
Will do! Can't wait, going to be a good day!
 
SuperUno said:
There isnt a condenser is there in the dizzy?

Still had the same problems driving to NEC

Now all setup in the MSA Stand, one of the first stands you will see from the main entrance.

Yep will be there on Sunday giving autosolo rides in my Blue MGZR (KG &@ LGK) come over for a free ride.
Click to expand...

The one year I can't make it... Balls.

Will tell my mates to go for a spin :)
 
SuperUno said:
There isnt a condenser is there in the dizzy?

Still had the same problems driving to NEC

Now all setup in the MSA Stand, one of the first stands you will see from the main entrance.

Yep will be there on Sunday giving autosolo rides in my Blue MGZR (KG &@ LGK) come over for a free ride.
Click to expand...
I don't know to be honest. It was just a suggestion. Mines a coilpack so complete different. I'm not actually familiar with your engine. Hope you sort it.
 

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