what did you do to your micra today ?

Jordan27 said:
I will when I have some decent tyres :p


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No excuse. If you can't drive it with **** scrap yard tyres then you need more control. I know that sounds pants buy I really believe that. Cheap tyres means you have to really know the car.
 
SirChris said:
No excuse. If you can't drive it with #### scrap yard tyres then you need more control. I know that sounds pants buy I really believe that. Cheap tyres means you have to really know the car.
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I can control the car but it's hard to get any power down when the tyre wall is flexing over and the tyres are overheating.. If it was possible to have decent control of the car with them on then people wouldn't buy rallying tyres :p


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Jordan27 said:
I can control the car but it's hard to get any power down when the tyre wall is flexing over and the tyres are overheating.. If it was possible to have decent control of the car with them on then people wouldn't buy rallying tyres :p


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No excuse use the handbrake... Bust out them skids? What LSD you got. It seems to be a lot friendlier than mine.
 
SirChris said:
No excuse use the handbrake... Bust out them skids? What LSD you got. It seems to be a lot friendlier than mine.
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On the video I am using the handbrake to try to get the back end to come around a bit, just a quick dab.
Gripper diff set up for Tarmac rallying, I guess it will be a lot more fierce when the front wheels actually have grip. Instead of giving some power to the non-spinning wheel it was just spinning both of them haha


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Jordan27 said:
On the video I am using the handbrake to try to get the back end to come around a bit, just a quick dab.
Gripper diff set up for Tarmac rallying, I guess it will be a lot more fierce when the front wheels actually have grip. Instead of giving some power to the non-spinning wheel it was just spinning both of them haha


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Skids ftw! Woo. Oh fair. What ramp. Power steering? Friction modifier?
 
SirChris said:
Skids ftw! Woo. Oh fair. What ramp. Power steering? Friction modifier?
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They did say but it sort of meant nothing to me :p as long as it's set up for Tarmac rallying that's something I can understand :D Yeah got Saxo electric power steering and performance LSD oil


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Jordan27 said:
They did say but it sort of meant nothing to me :p as long as it's set up for Tarmac rallying that's something I can understand :D Yeah got Saxo electric power steering and performance LSD oil


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Electric power steering... That's bloody clever. Lol ur as bad as me.. What's in ur car... Err go fast things and some fluids... Bam. More interested in driving it.
 
SirChris said:
Skids ftw! Woo. Oh fair. What ramp. Power steering? Friction modifier?
Click to expand...
They did say but it sort of meant nothing to me :p as long as it's set up for Tarmac rallying that's something I can understand :D Yeah got Saxo electric power steering and performance LSD oil


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SirChris said:
No excuse. If you can't drive it with #### scrap yard tyres then you need more control. I know that sounds pants buy I really believe that. Cheap tyres means you have to really know the car.
Click to expand...
100% agree
If the car handles and can be driven hard on cheap tyres 99/10 you'll be alot faster on better tyres
Jordan27 said:
I can control the car but it's hard to get any power down when the tyre wall is flexing over and the tyres are overheating.. If it was possible to have decent control of the car with them on then people wouldn't buy rallying tyres :p


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Up your tyre pressure, that'll reduce flex
Add more stiffness to the rear to aid rear traction breaking/skids. Rear tyre pressure up, arb setting stiffer, stiffer rear springs, softer rear comp damping

Test with cheap tyres to optimise set up. Then put on the expensive to get 110% handling/grip ;)
 
h701micra said:
100% agree
If the car handles and can be driven hard on cheap tyres 99/10 you'll be alot faster on better tyres

Up your tyre pressure, that'll reduce flex
Add more stiffness to the rear to aid rear traction breaking/skids. Rear tyre pressure up, arb setting stiffer, stiffer rear springs, softer rear comp damping

Test with cheap tyres to optimise set up. Then put on the expensive to get 110% handling/grip ;)
Click to expand...

But what about when you set up on cheap tyres and then the car is over grippy on good tyres? Cheap tyres are not made to be grippy so there's not much use in trying to make then grip. I drive the car as hard as the cheap tyres will go and drive the good tyres as hard as possible.
Also the rear was too stiff with rear ARB so it's removed, feels much better without it.

IMO no point in making a car handle on cheap tyres if you won't use them.. If the car would handle well on cheap tyres then everyone would be using them


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I get what your both saying but....

If a car handles well on cheap tyres, and getting it perfect on them will then mean when you put good tyres on it should be even better?
 
Huggy444 said:
I get what your both saying but....

If a car handles well on cheap tyres, and getting it perfect on them will then mean when you put good tyres on it should be even better?
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Not necessarily.. A car CAN be too grippy, and those cheap tyres compared to A048's... That's a big jump in grip to be setting up on!


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jk9194 said:
No micra for 9 days so far. :( I am so desperate to get one soon. :(Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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patients mate.
Off the Rd also.cant get taxed until dic check vic check is done.
Guess what,,,,, THE INSURANCE ENGINEER CHECKs IF IT'S A WRINGER WHEN HE VISITS YOUR HOME ALREADY!!!!!!! MUKING SCAMMING MUKING GOVERNMENT THEIF LITTLE BOYS WRETCHES.STEALING PUBLIC MONEY MUKiNG FAGINS ALL OF THEM.UP YA! WHO IS GONNA WRiNG A 96-97 K11 MICRA DAAAAAAAAAAAAAA DIVS. leaving country soon mucking UP YAAAAAAA! come n get me Up YAAAAAAA! SEVERLY UP YAAAAAAA.
 
Jordan27 said:
Not necessarily.. A car CAN be too grippy, and those cheap tyres compared to A048's... That's a big jump in grip to be setting up on!


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It's when you see cars on three wheels.... That's too much grip and stiffness :p

As I say, I get both of your points and I know your car was always one that handed well in f1000 spec
 
Lol, micra got it going easy, car has no weight though so pretty much stopped dead when he dumped the cluctch, much lols!
Got it working too, 2 fingers on the glow plug relay snapped off so was on 2 glow plugs (one was siezed in the head and dead) so he has 3 not working. A bit of a juggle around and we got 3 working and it JUST about starts. New control unit ordered, polava!
Micra saves the day :)
 
Huggy444 said:
It's when you see cars on three wheels.... That's too much grip and stiffness :p

As I say, I get both of your points and I know your car was always one that handed well in f1000 spec
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Three wheels was the reason the rear ARB was removed.
The car handles like a dream on the tyres that it's made to handle well on :p


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Questioned the integrity of my water pump...

olwo42WU
 
Tinted my indicators yellow cause I was bored and picked up some new wheels. Not fitted yet as the CB is 57mm :L
Oh yeah I also got some SR bumpers and spoiler the other week. Love them make the Micra look extra MAAAD :D
1404937435265.jpg
1404937517116.jpg
 
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Went to some retro rally event, which left me.... inspired.

I've always felt this Micra has drifted in a specific way when accelerating in a corner and shifting in to second and getting some tire squeal unlike any of my previous Micras has done.

Long story short, burned tires for a couple of meters which left two tire marks.
Seems like I might have an LSD gearbox?

Maybe some optional extra on a Swedish spec. Super S?

Anyone know where the model number of the gearbox is located and what numbers to look for?
 
nisses said:
Went to some retro rally event, which left me.... inspired.

I've always felt this Micra has drifted in a specific way when accelerating in a corner and shifting in to second and getting some tire squeal unlike any of my previous Micras has done.

Long story short, burned tires for a couple of meters which left two tire marks.
Seems like I might have an LSD gearbox?

Maybe some optional extra on a Swedish spec. Super S?

Anyone know where the model number of the gearbox is located and what numbers to look for?
Click to expand...
RS5F31V was a rare viscous lsd option on nissans, dunno about how to identify it...
 
Put one wheel on gravel and the other on tarmac, then try and spin the wheels, with a slipper diff you will get minimal wheel spin. With a 'open' diff the wheel on gravel will spin up.
 
Jordan27 said:
But what about when you set up on cheap tyres and then the car is over grippy on good tyres? Cheap tyres are not made to be grippy so there's not much use in trying to make then grip. I drive the car as hard as the cheap tyres will go and drive the good tyres as hard as possible.
Also the rear was too stiff with rear ARB so it's removed, feels much better without it.

IMO no point in making a car handle on cheap tyres if you won't use them.. If the car would handle well on cheap tyres then everyone would be using them


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You can never ever have too much grip. The whole point in suspension is getting maximum grip all the time.
Cheap tyres have to be grippy or they wouldn't get their e mark approval..
Rubber is rubber and the difference is compound. A048s are soft so they heat up quickly. Budgets are hard take a lot longer to heat up and that's why they last. But peak grip is the same. The reason pro teams set up on expensive tyres is because they can afford to.

Everybody is using budgets :p auto testers use pre-warmed soft compounds eg A048 and hard compound rear eg budget as they don't run long enough to get the heat in

As I say a handling is all about get 100% grip all the time. Not how level and go kart-y it feels going round a corner like most people think. As long as your corner weights and contact patches remain the same you can switch tyres freely.
 
h701micra said:
You can never ever have too much grip. The whole point in suspension is getting maximum grip all the time.
Cheap tyres have to be grippy or they wouldn't get their e mark approval..
Rubber is rubber and the difference is compound. A048s are soft so they heat up quickly. Budgets are hard take a lot longer to heat up and that's why they last. But peak grip is the same. The reason pro teams set up on expensive tyres is because they can afford to.

Everybody is using budgets :p auto testers use pre-warmed soft compounds eg A048 and hard compound rear eg budget as they don't run long enough to get the heat in

As I say a handling is all about get 100% grip all the time. Not how level and go kart-y it feels going round a corner like most people think. As long as your corner weights and contact patches remain the same you can switch tyres freely.
Click to expand...

Too much stiffness can lead to too much grip as mentioned above so it obviously can happen, even if it is a side effect of something else. Too much grip was a massive problem when I was karting, too.

Grip on the road under normal road conditions doing the speed limit and driving sensibly yeah, but not rallying! Most road tyres are made for functionality, least amount of wear and least amount of noise, not high grip under lots of load.
Yeah budget tyres are harder, but they got incredibly hot for only a few laps. They were getting hot in the first/second corner.
I agree about pro teams.
I also agree about not having 100% grip at all times because depending on the surface, situations, tyre wear, weather conditions etc the car can be too grippy. I 100% believe that!


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Tyres are polyester. Other factors come in when it comes to grip... like how solid the tyre shoulder is, how stiff the carcass is... eco tyres for example will have a VERY stiff carcass/sidewall, to minimise sidewall flex. This increases fuel efficiency but decreases grip. A539's, T1R's etc have very little treadways on the shoulder. This is where the majority of the load is carried mid corner, and the more rubber there is (e.g. fewer treadways) the more grip you have, at the expense of poor water displacement so reduced wet weather cornering grip.
 
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