Turbo charge your micra for £500

Is this possible? why isn't there a definitive guide to doing this? or is it not possible for £500? if not how much is required?
 
You could bolt up a turbo and say you have turbocharged your car if you want the bragging rights but highly unlikely to get it to work. A good judge of the cheapest you could do it would be frank's, not sure how much he has spent in total but I'd be willing to bet a fair bit its over 500.
 
Shall I budget my polo turbo build to 500... and see if its possible? Wont be near future. Next year it'll begin :)
Easiest way to say for sure
 
You could bolt up a turbo and say you have turbocharged your car if you want the bragging rights but highly unlikely to get it to work. A good judge of the cheapest you could do it would be frank's, not sure how much he has spent in total but I'd be willing to bet a fair bit its over 500.

I'd like one that is also reliable. I'd be interested to know what the figure is too. Frank's ECU seems to work well. If I replicate a proven set-up, the mapping cost is vastly reduced.
 
You could bolt up a turbo and say you have turbocharged your car if you want the bragging rights but highly unlikely to get it to work. A good judge of the cheapest you could do it would be frank's, not sure how much he has spent in total but I'd be willing to bet a fair bit its over 500.
aye :) my original ghetto setup was about £150 iirc, but you can only run low boost tho, the nistune was my biggest expense by far
 
Could get a used one and a rebuild kit cheaper
aye, a rebuilt kit is fine if the shaft is,nt worn tho eh :)
as long as you can inspect the tubby first, then buying 2nd hand is fine, its bidding blind on ebay (or trusting the seller.s description) that you end up buying a paperweight
 
aye, a rebuilt kit is fine if the shaft is,nt worn tho eh :)
as long as you can inspect the tubby first, then buying 2nd hand is fine, its bidding blind on ebay (or trusting the seller.s description) that you end up buying a paperweight
That's me :p
 
That's the Frank we know. You give a lot of us hope of finding other ways of getting the job done. Nistune was working too expensive for me, I was going to do a similar ghetto setup to your original, but then I come across AEM FIC, which someone offered to tune for me. I just had to get it installed. That's my reason for AEM otherwise I would have looked at HKS Gold etc as alternative.
 
Long story short. Unless you have parts to hand and the skill to build everything for nothing and just pay for aftermarket ecus. Or you have one lying around
Don't fool yourself or let anyone tell you can do this stuff on budget. I thought that. Face palm
 
Long story short. Unless you have parts to hand and the skill to build everything for nothing and just pay for aftermarket ecus. Or you have one lying around
Don't fool yourself or let anyone tell you can do this stuff on budget. I thought that. Face palm
i found it to be much easier than i expected tbh (apart from the silly mistakes :rolleyes:) these modern tubby,s are pretty bulletproof, but its just too easy to crank the boost up tho (and thats when things tend to let go :eek:)
you dont really need all the gadgets and blingy pipes/intercooler crap, i,m back to non intercooler and a slow spinning big turbo, and as long as the exhaust system is very free flowing you get a decent response and lot of top-end power
 
All we need now is the definitive Frankspeed guide to turbo charging your Micra :)
its all on here or cisco,s eh :)
the exhaust gasses are funneled down to a hole smaller than your little finger on my little GT1549, so the mani builds a good head of pressure, and a fast flowing jet onto the turbine, so its spinning @ 200k rpm in no time, and pulls like a stock SR20 between 1 and 3k.
the TD05 funnel is bigger than your thumb, so the mani pressure is far lower and exhaust system back pressure is very critical, but with a 63mm exh system and only 5 psi of boost it goes like the clappers between 4 and 7k rpm.
so choose wisely :)
 
can you run a variable resistor in series with the water temp sensor to trick it into thinking its colder than it is to make it run richer for boost? Just a thought
 
Imagination will lead you to an array of cheap and crazy ways to do it but none are going to be as effective as a proper EMS.
 
Imagination will lead you to an array of cheap and crazy ways to do it but none are going to be as effective as a proper EMS.
disconnecting the sensor gives an A/F/R of about 13:1 eh dave ;)

SDC11787.JPG
 
i found it to be much easier than i expected tbh (apart from the silly mistakes :rolleyes:) these modern tubby,s are pretty bulletproof, but its just too easy to crank the boost up tho (and thats when things tend to let go :eek:)
you dont really need all the gadgets and blingy pipes/intercooler crap, i,m back to non intercooler and a slow spinning big turbo, and as long as the exhaust system is very free flowing you get a decent response and lot of top-end power
Yes it can be easy with the know how.. I can vouch for that too haha. But let's face it you know just as well as I do that things go bang and bottle necks appear everywhere. How many engine, how many pistons, how many changes here and there. You are the king of ghetto setup from which we have all learnt a lot. Many of the people who want to turbo just want to slap it all on for cheap and think its going to last. I was like that haha oh my how I was wrong. I know there is no right way but there is the more professional or whatever you want to call it.. Errrr more proven/successful methods less prone to go bang? The intercooler and all the other gubbins help though for longevity in some aspects. We like hoiking engines out and what not. A 500 quid setup will see lots of fixes and put off the average modder. No?
 
I'm doing nissanubaru for less than 500... so far :p
But sirchris is right. A turbo setup can be done for less than 500. Whether it will last is another thing
 
can you run a variable resistor in series with the water temp sensor to trick it into thinking its colder than it is to make it run richer for boost? Just a thought


So with a pressure switch in the inlet pipework you could break the the w/t sensor circuit at a set point to give a 100% resistance and run rich, when it came off boost the sensor would switch back in to start giving the ecu real readings again. Even simpler a push to break switch on the steering wheel that the driver hits on boost? Does such a pressure switch device exist?
That's a bit digital though - i'm sure some sort of pressure referenced mechanical system could be devised that operated the variable resistor to vary the resistance in the temp sensor circuit and make the ECU think it was cold running as the boost increased?

Edit: one of these Perhaps? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pressure-vacuum-switches/2970046/?origin=PSF_428484|cav

I guess the real problem is getting more fuel in once the ecu is already giving everything - which would presumable suit cold starting, rather than running on boost?


*I only have the vaguest understanding of the way electrickery and ecu work in the first place, never mind the way these can be fooled into running a turbo'd engine*
 
the coolant temp sensor trick worked ok on mine in N/A spec mark, but like dave was hinting ^ it would run far too lean on a turbo setup :)
 
So the na stock mix is lean then?
that dyno graph shows the ecu trying to close loop during the 2 previous runs joe (the wavy lines, and failing somewhat) i dont know what a/f/r trace would be with the speed sensor disconnected (forced open loop)
 
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