Timing chain

GlenJ

GlenJ

Here i go again…..:)

After putting head back on i am struggling to get the chain/inlet sprocket back on, the cams seems out a wee bit i.e they are not really 9oClock and 12 inlet seems more 10oClock, the inlet sprocket is a millimetre out i can get the chain on it get the dowel in but will not go over the cam ring.


Any help appreciated…..
 
frank said:
deja vu glen :D just turn the cams slightly, it,ll go on
Click to expand...
sure is bud, was looking through cisco to see what i did last time but couldn't see/remember i have already slightly turned the ex cam, just not to sure which way to turn the inlet to get the sprocket to line up
 
^don't confuse me Frank lol don't take much……...Turn the exh cam back to where it was? (anti-clockwise) and then then play with inlet till sprocket goes on?, all should be fine after fingers crossed :) don't know why i think i can do all this lol
 
nah, if the exh sprocket wont slip on, then there,s too much slack on that front run, so turn the inlet cam back to remove the slack :)
 
Cheers bud watched a few times before as well, (well flicked through lol)

at 14.30 is that you tweaking cam to get the chain on :)
 
GlenJ said:
Cheers bud watched a few times before as well, (well flicked through lol)

at 14.30 is that you tweaking cam to get the chain on :)
Click to expand...

since the crank, idler sprocket, chain and cam sprockets are locked in place at TDC, I tweak the cams with the spanner till the cam sprocket slots onto the petruding locating peg and centre hub at the ends of the cams.
 
Ok managed to get the chain and sprocket on by tweaking cams but now all the slack is still on the wrong side, Polly in your video you show the slack on, how you manage to make sure its on the tensioner side

Thanks
 
GlenJ said:
Ok managed to get the chain and sprocket on by tweaking cams but now all the slack is still on the wrong side, Polly in your video you show the slack on, how you manage to make sure its on the tensioner side

Thanks
Click to expand...

while keeping tension on the left side of the chain with ur finger (so the chain doesn't slip off the cog) turn the inlet cam anti-clock with spanner so the right chain side tensions up and the left side goes slack, then fit the upper tensioner (remember to reset the tensioner rachet)
 
cheers bud for the reply, ok so chain back off and do ^ what about that idle sprocket does that sound right when did it last time i don't think i even checked that i just torqued it up, theres not loads of play but when car is screaming its nuts off i can imagine it would cause a problem
 
does the chain stop the movement of that sprocket, because i was gonna start again to see if anything was in behind the washer and when i went to undo the cam sprocket bolt the chain moved a little, i checked everything again and now the idle sprocket will has no play. Don't know whats going on but if you watch the video there is quite a bit of play (you can hear it)
 
you would have to remove the head again to check the bronze bush and journal eh glen, and the lower chain pulls the idler downwards and the upper chain pulls upwards :)
 
frank said:
you would have to remove the head again to check the bronze bush and journal eh glen, and the lower chain pulls the idler downwards and the upper chain pulls upwards :)
Click to expand...
please don't say that, the bronze bush and journal (not a clue what they are) are they where the bolt goes through? what you think needs checking tho bud
 
a little bit of clearance play is normal for journal bearings such as on the idler or turbo shaft.
during operation it'll be riding on a film of pressurised oil.

but like any journal bearing system, it's usually a good idea to check the bearing is within clearance specs cos any excess clearances from higher up the oil system will reduce oil pressure to parts further down the line.
 
bit lost on what to do now, at the mo there is no play but i think this is due to the chain being quite tight on the correct side this time, i think this is keeping it in place. Will it be ok to turn the engine by hand to see if all lines up again and that there is no play in the sprocket when the chain moves around?

Thanks as always guys
 
GlenJ said:
bit lost on what to do now, at the mo there is no play but i think this is due to the chain being quite tight on the correct side this time, i think this is keeping it in place. Will it be ok to turn the engine by hand to see if all lines up again and that there is no play in the sprocket when the chain moves around?

Thanks as always guys
Click to expand...
yes plugs out and turn it by hand eh glen :)
 
ok turned over 4 times now everything looks good, chain seems to get spat out but i assuming the tensioner will stop that, there is still a bit of play in this sprocket tho not all way round just at certain times, you reckon when chain is fully tensioned that will stop that or am i just being a optimist :)
 
after fitting the tensioner, press the moving tensioner piston/face all the way in to make the internal ratchet mechanism "release" and it'll apply some spring tension to the chain.
 
ok done that bud, there is no movement in that sprocket until it goes slack….. Should the side opposite the tensioner always be tight?
 
and here is where i set my lobes nowadays glen, you can see how much i advanced them eh ! (it gained about 10hp between 1 and 3 k rpm when i advanced the inlet)

P2180555.JPG
P2180556.JPG
P2180557.JPG
P2180558.JPG
 
the rule makers must be watching these forums cos this year they have put in the rule book about filing them dowels down not allowed :(

You reckon this will be ok to go? will try put a video on of it turning by hand just hard work on your own, camera woman will be home soon :)
 
GlenJ said:
the rule makers must be watching these forums cos this year they have put in the rule book about filing them dowels down not allowed :(

You reckon this will be ok to go? will try put a video on of it turning by hand just hard work on your own, camera woman will be home soon :)
Click to expand...
filing the dowels just compensates for the chain wear really glen, i can remember when the k11,s were first produced, and the 1.0,s used to be really nippy when brand new.
and advancing the 1.3 cams in the 1.0 engines gives more gains still
 

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