tig welding

Azzydot said:
making small round cuts


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746px-Pistol-grip_drill.svg.png
 
That doesn't make the shape I will need and that's only a round hole 2inch big, i was looking at rotary tools it's got a small cutter on it


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Azzydot said:
I will be making example, bad boy bonnet, cutting bit of front engine for turbo cleanage, will cut and shut my manifold with t25 flange then fill it up with metal to support it, and I will also need it for many other things


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That to me sounds like it can all be done with a grinder
 
I use angle grinder with light touch (never force a tool to work, let the tool work at it's own pace or else it'll bite/kick/slip back or just get blunt/damaged) for removing large amount of material fast.
for finer grinding/cutting I use my dremel
for finer cutting, a hacksaw
for finer grinding, a hand file
and for even finer control, a mini file
 
pollyp said:
I use angle grinder with light touch (never force a tool to work, let the tool work at it's own pace or else it'll bite/kick/slip back or just get blunt/damaged) for removing large amount of material fast.
for finer grinding/cutting I use my dremel
for finer cutting, a hacksaw
for finer grinding, a hand file
and for even finer control, a mini file
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Polly that's why I don't wana use my grinder I will use my rotary took coz it's small and less power, this way I can cut off some of the engine block about 2mm so it's not going in the main block


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If you consider how you're actually going to fabricate the part when designing it yiu don't run into problems like grinder not fitting eh
 
h701micra said:
The only time I don't use my grinder is when it won't fit... and that's not very often
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That's only why I said am not using my grinder for my block as under the ex manifold the grinder goes in but then u can't get the top done near the dip stick, as I do this b4, and I think rotary will do it fine,


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Enuo said:
If you consider how you're actually going to fabricate the part when designing it yiu don't run into problems like grinder not fitting eh
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Very true not for me, only will use it when it fits in a place, and if I needed to make cut and shuts on turbo elbow


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just got my pure argon gas on a good deal, pay 100 for the bottle then each refills are 28 pounds which is ok for me, so I guess I'll be tig welding first time this week


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Help plz, I have got my argon gas set up with reg and flow, on my tig dc welder but try to spark it up and enuo is right it's so hard I can't get it going ?


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I regret selling my mig it was simple just click and weld, tig u need to be 2mm between the metal and torch or it will go off and u have to keep it so close, can I swap my tig with your mig plz


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Honestly mate, try get some tuition from SOMEONE before you write it off, one you get the hang of it you'll love it
 
Azzydot said:
just got my pure argon gas on a good deal, pay 100 for the bottle then each refills are 28 pounds which is ok for me, so I guess I'll be tig welding first time this week


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Sounds pretty good can I ask where from? I'm looking for a cheapish supplier before I invest in a tig welder
 
tig is good for someone who can use it really good, but yh I paid 140 for dc Tig brand new with torch rods, then argon gas 100 pounds from Sheffield don't even need account to get gas anytime, and helmet 15 pounds, bench grinder 25 pounds Argos lol, I have the lot for a pro to use daily I guess cheap set up can weld most things, plus my tig is button on torch which is good, and gas regular, airflow,


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They are DC invertors tom, you can get Chinese ones cheap as chips.
Sounds like you have 'scratch start' azzy, as opposed to high frequency start. Do a little research and look up 'welding tips and tricks' on YouTube. Some very helpful videos by a guy called Jody.
TIG is like riding a bike ;) you'll get there.
And no, you can't get electrocuted from holding the work.
I would highly recommend an 'auto darkening' helmet if you don't already have one. Otherwise it makes like very hard when starting the weld.
 
Noddie said:
They are DC invertors tom, you can get Chinese ones cheap as chips.
Sounds like you have 'scratch start' azzy, as opposed to high frequency start. Do a little research and look up 'welding tips and tricks' on YouTube. Some very helpful videos by a guy called Jody.
TIG is like riding a bike ;) you'll get there.
And no, you can't get electrocuted from holding the work.
I would highly recommend an 'auto darkening' helmet if you don't already have one. Otherwise it makes like very hard when starting the weld.
Click to expand...
mines not chiese dc or stike one, it's got button on torch, and your right I got a cheap helmet I need auto one so I can see and weld


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Our Murex at work has a button on gun and isn't high frequency start (any more). Scratch starting can be learnt, if you've done stick welding its fairly similar technique.
 
Enuo said:
Our Murex at work has a button on gun and isn't high frequency start (any more). Scratch starting can be learnt, if you've done stick welding its fairly similar technique.
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yeh enuo it's like how u saying same as mines when u button it starts and when it goes off you have to keep button it, U need lots and lots or practice your right I don't wana sell it no more it's so special and Better then mig all day, used both I like tig


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Enuo said:
Because you're not supposed to touch the metal with the tip once the arc has been struck
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when it's on it just get stuck and pulls out I can't strike it like a pro and move it back so easy, I will have to keep practice I haven't got a auto helmet? Is that why ?


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Azzydot said:
when it's on it just get stuck and pulls out I can't strike it like a pro and move it back so easy, I will have to keep practice I haven't got a auto helmet? Is that why ?


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Doesn't help. Took me a while to get hang of scratch start and even now I still cock it up and have to regrind the tungsten
 

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