Super S(hite) build

[sammyt]

Hi all im a newbie.


I bought a Super S that needed the cross member welding up and the clutch replacing. Full service history from new, every stamp and reciapt etc etc. Handed over £130 for it and dragged it home.

Hacked the front cross member off and started cleaning it up But then things got slightly out of hand and i decided to convert it to rear wheel drive...

Got a donor vehicle in exchange for some scrap cars i had laying about and carefully removed everything i needed using specialist tools...

A small amount of chopping and welding and the back is all mounted up.

Ive thrown the engine in the bin along with the front cradle as it'll be easier to make one from scratch than it would to modify the mx5 one to fit.

Only been on it for a day so this is as far as ive got.

Cheers!

 

[frank]

lookin good sammy

 

[r-reg-sr]

lucky it was that rotten

 

[sammyt]

So last night I had another go. Managed to swap to front hubs over, this allows me to move the rack further foward and make room for the propshaft etc.

Also finished the rear diff braces and made up the stabaliser bar that stops the diff twisting under load. Had to reinforce the floor to make sure it was up to the job. More pictures soon.

 

[h701micra]

The MX5 sub frame is a good match to the micra chassis, shame you've binned it

 

[sammyt]

On the rear it is but front is way out. The chassis is too high and id have to butcher the subframe and the engine bay loads which would lose strength. Making it myself means I can sit the engine lower and further back to centralise the weight distribution.

 

[h701micra]

No one mentioned cutting into the chassis but as its been done already on the back you could easily remake or even reuse the mx5 chassis legs, not that I'd recommend it. Strength isnt the factor, to a degree, when building a chassis, how it reacts in a collision is.
MX5 already had a 50/50 f/r weight balance, I'd at at least use the MX5 frame as a mounting jig get correct geometry, 'butchering' the subframe correctly should ensure you don't need to touch the K11 chassis, but you're going to have to modify the bulkhead regardless however I look forward to seeing how you mount yours
I simply remade the engine bay (albeit space framed, tunnel and rear members to be able to bolt on a micra body, just shortened prop, as mazda did with the mx5 originally

Typically an engine is raised not lowered so the whole car can be lowered. The benefits are greater for lowering the car than the engine (lower roll centres, lower cog, better roll axis)

 

[sammyt]

I'll be making a space frame type setup that will tie the front together whilst still making it removable incase anything ever needs to be altered/repaired. As I'm using a bike engine I shouldn't need to rebuild the tunnel as the prop lines up nicely and the gear selectors and exhaust will be made with lack of space in mind as I want to keep the carpet if possible. Any chance you could send me some pictures of yours? Im now curious lol

 

[h701micra]

Oh not using the MX5 engine? Then what I said doesn't really apply for the most part.
What bike engine is in the pipeline?

Space frame bolt on types are good where changes are concerned too. Say your radiator configuration isn't sufficient you can unbolt it and start again rather than chopping and cutting large pieces of your work

I can sort some photos out. The chap that paid for the build still has the car so some mlre up to date photos may be possible if interested

 

[sammyt]

Well the plan was for an early gsxr engine but they're still holding really strong money so I think an early Kawasaki motor is top favour at the moment. The mx engines are ok but not really what I'm after. I want endless rpms and flatshifting!

 

[h701micra]

How are you converting chain drive to prop driven?

And because I haven't said it yet
Welcome to the forum

 

[sammyt]

Well ill need an engine with a left hand chain drive, spin the engine 90degrees and fit a sprocket adapter that's basically just a 4 bolt prop flange with a spline centre to slide over the output shaft. Then its just getting a prop made up to suit both the flange and the diff, whilst adding a centre bearing to contain the weight a bit better.

 

[h701micra]

I see
It's as I imagined it would be. That will be educational to see how the gearbox and diff ratios conflict
As far as props go, it'll be more economical to use the MX5 prop with an adapter plate on the spline drive disc?

 

[sammyt]

Well ill be upgrading the clutch springs to help handle the weight difference but aside from that its a case of wait and see what happens. The mx5 prop Is way too short as the bike engine doesn't have the gearbox like a car so its about 2 foot too short

 

[h701micra]

Ah of course apologies.
As you say, wait n see what happens.
I hope it works out for you

 

[sammyt]

Just a couple more pics.

The first shows a reinforcement plate I welded onto the rear seat tub. This is where the stabaliser bar for the diff will bolt to.

Sencond shows some of the rear seam welding, looks poor but I've since ground it back and re-done it (had the wire speed too high on the welded).

Third is its maiden push outside just to wash some of the crap off it so I can actually see what I'm doing.