Replacing CV boot or gaiter - questions

T

twisting

I'm replacing the front left CV joint gaiter/boot on a Micra Twister, K11, 16v, 1998, 1.0

The manual is confusing me and I'm not sure I've gotten all the parts right. Also, it seems like a lot of hard work and I've been told I don't actually need to remove the driveshaft

Could anyone have a look at the photo and labelling and make sure I've gotten the parts right and help with the questions below

This is what the manual says...
Loosen the driveshaft nut
Jack it up
Take the wheel off
Take the driveshaft nut off
** I've gotten this far and looked around a bit and then had a cuppa to reward myself - the nut was hard to remove
Remove the driveshaft
Which involves
- Drain the transmission oil
- Undo the caliper guide pins (A in the photo listed at the bottom of the post) and remove and suspend from a wire
- Undo the track-rod to steering arm nut (C in the photo)
- Undo the bolts holding the hub carrier to the suspension strut (E)
- Pull the hub carrier outwards while pushing the driveshaft through the hub
- Pull the driveshaft from the transmission
When I've got the driveshaft out
Measure the boot length so the new one goes on the same length
Loosen the gaiter clips and slide it towards the center of the shaft
Make alignment marks (driveshaft to CV joint)
Clamp the driveshaft and tap the driveshaft inner race outwards using a mallet and soft metal drift. This will force the retaining clip to contract into its groove and enable the join to be removed from the shaft
Slide the gaiter off and remove the circlips from the end of the shaft if necessary
Scoop out the grease and clean gaiter and shaft
Slide the small gaiter clip onto the shaft
Fit new securing clips (square section circlip and round section circlip).
Stick the joint back on the shaft (with corret alignment)
Tap it on until the clips hold it
Pack with grease
Slide the gaiter on then the large gaiter clip
Set the length of the gaiter as the old one was
Tighten the small gaiter securing clip
Refit the driveshaft

Jesus Christ - why don't I just rebuild the whole car!

The questions I have are
1. Have I got the labelling right (A, C, E)
2. I take it I leave B (the thing mounting the rest of the brakes [caliper mounting?] onto the hub carrier) and D (suspension lower arm to hub carrier) alone right?
3. It says I need new circlips. How do I order these - do I just call and ask for the circular and square groove circlips that hold the front left outer gaiter on a micra twister 16v 1998 etc etc
4. Is there an easier way to do this without taking the driveshaft out (well really - without having to undo all those bolts that I just know will be seized). If there is can you give instructions, or refer a link if I've missed the instructions elsewhere

Cheap as chips is a priority (i.e. I can't just go buy a new driveshaft), as is getting it done by next tues (to resit the MOT cheaper)

Thanks in advance for any help

73455180kb8.jpg
 
twisting

the last one i did, i only took the knucle/strut bolts out and pulled the cv out of the hub, on full lock
then i knocked the cv off the shaft ( in situ )
 
the only nuts and bolts you really need to undo are the driveshaft end nut and the two hub/shock bolts, the cv joint will knock off the end of the shaft and then you can replace the boot, but to be honest its easier in the long run to replace the whole joint if the boot has split, contaminates will have got in there and will destroy the joint, better to the job once rather than twice.
 
I've not tried this myself, but I know of a couple of guys who have used those 'split' cv boots, which basically means you don't have to pull anything apart.... just take the old boot off with the driveshaft still in place, fit the new one pack with grease, joint the 'split' with the glue provided and jobs a good 'un. I've personally got reservations about it, but these guys haven't had any problems so far.
 
Thanks for the replies - the advice is appreciated

frank said:
the last one i did, i only took the knucle/strut bolts out and pulled the cv out of the hub, on full lock then i knocked the cv off the shaft ( in situ )
Click to expand...
Have I got this right? I take off C and E, turn the steering full right(?) lock, pull the cv joint out of the hub (inwards - toward the centre of the car?) then support and clamp the driveshaft (will I need to do that so I don't pull it out of the transmission?) and knock the cv joint off, then replace it etc

sonic said:
the only nuts and bolts you really need to undo are the driveshaft end nut and the two hub/shock bolts, the cv joint will knock off the end of the shaft and then you can replace the boot, but to be honest its easier in the long run to replace the whole joint if the boot has split, contaminates will have got in there and will destroy the joint, better to the job once rather than twice.
Click to expand...
Is this the same as Frank's method but without undoing C?

I realize the joint's going to go eventually but I'm OK with doing it again. Part of the reason for doing this is to get some knowledge on how to fix cars as my next one's either going to be an old classic or a converted alternative fuel car that I'm gonna have to get my hands dirty with. From what I've read I'll hear the joint going (knocking) before it breaks, so I can replace it then - time and patience is something I can easily provide. If I need to replace it because it'll be dangerous, that's different.

I've not tried this myself, but I know of a couple of guys who have used those 'split' cv boots, which basically means you don't have to pull anything apart.... just take the old boot off with the driveshaft still in place, fit the new one pack with grease, joint the 'split' with the glue provided and jobs a good 'un. I've personally got reservations about it, but these guys haven't had any problems so far
Click to expand...
I've heard they're tricky because you have to get the glue/seal right, although if the joints going to go soon anyway it's a good idea as I could use the split boot to get it through the MOT, then replace both the boot and joint later when it starts to go. I've got the driveshaft wheel off and jacked it up now (both took a while) so I'd like to replace it with the boot I've got now
 
twisting said:
Is this the same as Frank's method but without undoing C?
Click to expand...

it sure is, the cv joint can be removed by hitting outwards on the back of it with a big hammer whilst holding the driveshaft in place, it should stay in place at the gearbox end.

you dont need to undo 'C', just push down on the arm and the joint will pull out of the arm.
 
sonic said:
it sure is, the cv joint can be removed by hitting outwards on the back of it with a big hammer whilst holding the driveshaft in place, it should stay in place at the gearbox end.
Click to expand...
OK - that's the way I'm gonna go then :)

sonic said:
you dont need to undo 'C', just push down on the arm and the joint will pull out of the arm.
Click to expand...
woops - that confused me. Can you explain how a little more?

Also - any idea about the circlips that hold the CV joint on (which I guess is that I'm knocking it off with the hammer) ? Can I reuse the ones on there already? Are they easy enough to find? Do they need to be special ones for the Micra or for the driveshaft/joint?
 
If you undo the driveshaft centre nut and both nuts and bolts 'E' and push down on the lower arm the cv joint will pull out of the hub, then it can be knocked off the end of the driveshaft. The circlip can be reused if it is ok, but I prefer to use a new one every time, they can be got from any decent car spares shop.
 
sonic said:
If you undo the driveshaft centre nut and both nuts and bolts 'E' and push down on the lower arm the cv joint will pull out of the hub, then it can be knocked off the end of the driveshaft. The circlip can be reused if it is ok, but I prefer to use a new one every time, they can be got from any decent car spares shop.
Click to expand...
Brilliant, thanks! That's probably going to save me a ton of staring at the manual and scratching my head then undoing things (like my fingers) that I shouldn't be and ending up taking it to the garage anyway.
 
OK, so today I've managed to get the joint out of the hub (don't laugh - I'm taking my time as I've not done this before and I don't want to screw up the car)

Attached is an image of where I am at the moment. The joint is out of the hub and I've clamped the driveshaft in place so it can't move in or out of the transmission. The reason I did that is the driveshaft moved in and out a fair bit (maybe an inch towards the hub and an inch towards the centre of the car (into the gearbox) - is that normal? It's held firmly in place with a bit of wood and a clamp now but I'm worried in case I pulled it out too far, or pushed it in too far. Is there anything I can check or do to see if I did any damage? There isn't any oil spilling out of the transmission. It's in 1st gear at the moment, as the manual said to put it in that while it's jacked up, would it be better to have it in neutral?

Tomorrow I'm going to lift the driveshaft + CV joint vertically up and over the spar that has the holes for the two bolts connecting the hub to the suspension strut (the one with masking tape around the top, which I put on to mark it's alignment with the suspension strut, before I realised I didn't need to) and then back down, so I can get it straight to knock it off the driveshaft. To do that I'm going to have to lift it up a fair bit and I'm worried about damaging the driveshaft-to-transmission oil seal and the gears it's connected to, which must be where it'll be pivoting as I lift it. Also, to knock the CV joint off, the driveshaft is going to have to be held up at an angle, to let the joint clear the top of the hub. Is it going to be OK to do it that way?

Also - I've another question about doing the bolts up to the right torque. I've used penetrating oil on the driveshaft retaining nut and I've read somewhere that if I tighten it to the right torque with oil on the contact surfaces (i.e. between the hub and the nut collar/washer), it'll tighten up to 20% too much. Is that right, and if so what do, just wash and dry the contact surfaces?

42302579rp6.jpg
 
twisting

dont worry if you pull the shaft out of the g/box, all you,ll do is lose some oil
you get a bit more clearence if you put it on full lock
it needs a sharp whack to free the circlip and the clip has to be dead center when you whack it back on
the torques will be ok oil or not
 
frank said:
twisting

dont worry if you pull the shaft out of the g/box, all you,ll do is lose some oil
you get a bit more clearence if you put it on full lock
it needs a sharp whack to free the circlip and the clip has to be dead center when you whack it back on
the torques will be ok oil or not
Click to expand...
OK :) that's reassuring

It's already on full lock (it's the nearside wheel and the full lock is all the way to the right) and there's not enough clearance to get the joint into a position where I can knock it off without lifting the driveshaft up and towards the back of the car - basically to have it coming straight out, with the CV joint pointing out as well it's going to have to be resting on the top of the hub. If I don't lift and pivot it, the hub is in the way. Am I OK levering the driveshaft up that much (2, maybe 3 inches)?
 
OK so I managed to replace the CV boot today. I couldn't do it in situ (couldn't knock the CV joint off) and had to take the driveshaft out in the end. The joint came off easily enough after that.

I've put the driveshaft back in to the transmission and hub, and connected everything back together again + put the wheel on. I've only loosely tightened the driveshaft nut as the manual said to do that when it's on the ground and I haven't taken it down off the axle stands yet.

Problem is... as the wheel goes around and I can hear something (the pads I think) rubbing against the brake disc. I think it's clear for half a turn then I can hear it rubbing for the 2nd half and there's a little resistance at the same time (while it's rubbing)

I'm 99% sure it's the brakes (I only rotated a couple of times as it was late) rather than anything else rubbing

Any ideas what the problem might be? The driveshaft nut still needs to be tightened about 5 mm, so is it possible the rubbing will go away when I tighten it?

If not, what might it be? I was pulling hardish but not breakable hard outwards on the hub to get the driveshaft out of it (the securing clip around the bottom of the lower-suspension-arm-to-hub-carrier-balljoint jacket sheared, so I must have used some force) Is it possible I've done something to the alignment of the disc?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Baring that I'm temped to take it to the garage and say "I broke it, can you fix it please?"

Oh - one other question. I had to drain the transmission oil, which meant undoing the transmission drain plug (bottom) and fill plug (front face). The manual says to tighten the drain plug to 15 Nm if my gearbox is a RS5F41A and 30 Nm if it's anything else. It also says a 998cc model is an RS5F41A or a RS5F30A, so I've got a 1 in 2 chance of being an RS5F41A. How do I tell the difference?

--- edit ---
The brake rubbing problem solved itself once I'd tightened everything and driven it a 100 yards and applied the brakes a couple of times. Transmission oil seems to be staying in as well, so I guess the plugs are OK
 
Thanks a lot for all your help people - car's fixed and MOT is passed and lots of new stuff learned.

Now all I need to do is replace the other side, fix the gear box, find a new exhaust manifold cover, panel beat a dent out, give it a full service, make and fit an integrated AV/PC system with the broken laptops I have lying around and find new badges and wheel trim for it :k11yellow
 
sonic said:
what badges do you need ?
Click to expand...
One for the hatch handle on the back/boot. I was planning on checking out some scrap yards for one or even making something myself or finding something else I can put on there, like a hand with middle finger extended that lights up with LED's when I get annoyed with someone driving up my arse (or maybe a chrome smiley for when I think the chick behind is cute :grinning: )
 
Ive got a spare front grille badge you can have if you want it, I'm pretty sure they're the same, send me an SAE and its yours.
 
sonic said:
Ive got a spare front grille badge you can have if you want it, I'm pretty sure they're the same, send me an SAE and its yours.
Click to expand...
That's kind of you and the offer is really appreciated but I've got to either find it on my travels or make it myself (which makes it more interesting as I'll have to work out how chrome plating works) to keep it within my rules for fixing my car up (rule: If the reasons you're getting someone else to do it are cos it's easier than working out how to do it yourself, it's quicker or it's less work, then you have to do it yourself)
 
I have replaced the drivers side CV joint today and found this thread very useful. Changed it in situ just removing the drive shaft nut and the two strut/hub bolts, I also removed the caliper and disc just for a bit more space, took about 1.5 hours with a bit of help.
 
CB 182 said:
I have replaced the drivers side CV joint today and found this thread very useful. Changed it in situ just removing the drive shaft nut and the two strut/hub bolts, I also removed the caliper and disc just for a bit more space, took about 1.5 hours with a bit of help.
Click to expand...
It bugs me that I couldn't manage it without taking the driveshaft off.

How high up did you have the car jacked?
 
twisting said:
It bugs me that I couldn't manage it without taking the driveshaft off.

How high up did you have the car jacked?
Click to expand...

I found that with the wheels pointing straight ahead you can just push the shaft through the hub while pushing the hub down, just need 2 pairs of hands.

We only had is jacked normal height.
 
I managed to get the driveshaft out of the hub, just couldn't manage to knock the CV joint off the driveshaft. Not enough space to swing at it and get enough momentum to get it off.

I think I was being a bit wet though - I might have managed it if I'd been a lot rougher
 
twisting said:
I managed to get the driveshaft out of the hub, just couldn't manage to knock the CV joint off the driveshaft. Not enough space to swing at it and get enough momentum to get it off.

I think I was being a bit wet though - I might have managed it if I'd been a lot rougher
Click to expand...

I held the drive shaft while my dad gave the joint a tap, i think you would struggle with one person (for that part )
 
The outer cv boot on mine has split and no doubt the helpful guidance on here will be super helpful without a doubt. So thank you.
However, someone in one of the posts somewhere on the site has suggested fitting an original Nissan part. I'm glad I was sitting down when I called them as Nissan wanted £47.35!!!!! for 1 outer cv boot kit. I clarified that I only wanted the rubber boot kit and not the whole complete cv joint. I know he said, thats £47.35.
Well, as my intention wasn't to double the value of the car, I went to the local motor factors and picked up a kit for a quarter of what Nissan wanted. It may not last quite as long as the Nissan one (but then again it might), but it'll last long enough to more than justify the price, and it aint too tough a chore. If I paid Nissan's price, I'd want the thing to last forever and then replace itself after that!
 
easyest way without any the gobblydegook

Wheels Off
wishbone bolt out
Drive shaft nut off
Gearbox side off
Hub side off

easiest way to get drive shafts out gearbox side, big screw driver (flat head), or a chisel. put it in and hit it with hammer, and woola!

Then reward your self with a cuppa :p
 
Does anyone know what size the hubnut is? I've got an outer joint to replace and don't have any sockets big enough.

Is £36 (exchange) good for a new non-Nissan joint with boot?
 
Just replaced one of mine today and this guide helped loads. I too could not get the cv joint to come off the drive shaft but I used a stretch boot any how and used a fitting cone so no worries really. Job done(Y)
 

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