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Porks bike carbs and boost project

No worries, I spend most nights with the lady Stella lol

I was thinking bending the pedal out wards to allow for more Travel
 
If you are gonna reshell surely its worth finding one which doesn't need welding?
+1 don't bother with a shell where rust has started. Buttt I will say don't reshell until you have learnt what the cars capable. I can imagine one would possibly mount a kirb or two. Plus get the setup built to a good standard and use the bad shell to help you refine that. Then when its boosting fine and dandy just shove it in the nice shell.
 
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Bought this today for £20 from an seat, thus will go between s/c and turbo.
The air temp is pretty hot

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It's fine, :)

Got this toady

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Here's quick vid, cars bit rough, needs fuel fiddling with, and warming up, couldn't afford the mid silencer this month, see how I get on with just this, if not il get ine

 
Here's a quick brainstorm for those who can help.

Here's current set up, turbo actuator is fed via manifold pressure, the bypass valve is fed via turbo port.

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When stationary, I rev the car, my pre throttle boost gauge reads 7psi, the manifold boost gauge reads 0.
The bypass valve that's fed via turbo port opens too.

When driving, it's rapid of the mark, then a drop in acceleration jus before turbo comes in, then there's another kick from turbo.

My thinking is, the bypass valve is opening to soon, (pressure at turbo port reaches 7psi before engine manifold pressure) escaping the boost to atmosphere.

Should I have both actuators fed from engine manifold like this....

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I am blowing onto turbo mate.

My BOV is open on idle, venting, the bypass valve is open to when I blip the throttle.

That's why I'm wondering whether to take feed to the bypass from manifold pressure.

Easy enough to try I guess.

Can't imagine getting 26pis @1k tho!

How small is the turbo?
 
ahh, the chargepipe and mani will only have the same pressure at wot tho eh, the throttle will interrupt for any non-wot openings
 
Well the BOV is venting 'alot!' With thottle shut.
A mate of mine with a recently supercharged 306 is using 2 bov's to vent the charger

I have the mini vacuum operated valve spare too (broke it a bit, easily fixed)
If I need ir
 
you could have a balance pipe between the bov and bypass pipes eh neil, with a .5mm damper hole, so that if the chargepipe starts to overboost excess pressure bleeds through into the bypass and opens it anyway
 
like a pressure relief valve neil, so that it only opens the bypass if the pressure difference between the chargepipe and mani is big, the tsi sends the air from the s/c around in a loop till you hit the throttle eh, then it diverts it to the turbo
 
Maybe I can use the mini bypass valve in the same way, situate pre mani throttle, and return it onto s/c inlet

Somthing to play about with.

It's loads better though mate, still needs both maps adjusting, but everything is 'go' straight away.

How's the hombru frankenblower coming?
 
Maybe I can use the mini bypass valve in the same way, situate pre mani throttle, and return it onto s/c inlet

Somthing to play about with.

It's loads better though mate, still needs both maps adjusting, but everything is 'go' straight away.

How's the hombru frankenblower coming?
well done mate, the blower is waiting some brushless parts to arrive on the slowboat from china, but still progressing tho :)
 
Real interested on end result! Keep us posted.

Only concern of mine now is inlet temps, I've fit another intercooler to go between s/c and turbo.

But still, it's quite warm

I've got a inlet temp probe on the mani going to ecu, but it constantly reads 21c
So something's wrong lol
 
an electric centrifugal s/c compliments a turbo perfectly neil, because its a set pressure from idle that cant overboost, and as the revs pick up the pressure drops (because the engine cfm is increasing) so you start with half a bar then that progressively drops to near zero at full chat (a mirror of what the turbo outputs)
so no bypass valves or boost control needed :)
i,ve tapered down the vanes like enuo advised, so had to make a dishshaped s/s cover to suit the different vane profile, and we,re busting rubblebags now :D

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I need to sort gearing next, it's gunna break, very soon lol
It's a 1986 4spd for a 1.0l :D

Hybrid Clutch is holding nicely,

G/box doesn't feel too bad, I just know it will jus go....baldly....soon
 
Just insane!
Looking badass!

Should be getting the simalar double kick like mine then
nah, smooth transition neil, as the s/c pressure drops the turbo pressure takes over :) thats if it can muster half a bar of course :)
if it only achieves 2 or 3 psi then it may be more suited to a high comp cammed 4-2-1 mani setup ?
 
an electric centrifugal s/c compliments a turbo perfectly neil, because its a set pressure from idle that cant overboost, and as the revs pick up the pressure drops (because the engine cfm is increasing) so you start with half a bar then that progressively drops to near zero at full chat (a mirror of what the turbo outputs)
so no bypass valves or boost control needed :)
i,ve tapered down the vanes like enuo advised, so had to make a dishshaped s/s cover to suit the different vane profile, and we,re busting rubblebags now :D

View attachment 35628

I've got a selection of screw air compressor pumps at my disposal, but the smallest needs 4kw of power to run....and a gallon off oil to cool (actual contact between the screws)

So not applicable
 
nah, smooth transition neil, as the s/c pressure drops the turbo pressure takes over :) thats if it can muster half a bar of course :)
if it only achieves 2 or 3 psi then it may be more suited to a high comp cammed 4-2-1 mani setup ?

Either way, still a commendable effort in fabrication
 
I've got a selection of screw air compressor pumps at my disposal, but the smallest needs 4kw of power to run....and a gallon off oil to cool (actual contact between the screws)

So not applicable
yes this will need about half a hp per psi neil !
 
yes this will need about half a hp per psi neil !


Just ain't gunna work, cheap to me, just not ginna happen.
There's a few oiless pumps available to me.....jus not worth it, not at what I can pick these s/c up for.

I like mine for the noise alone (sure it will wear thin over time)

Are you settling with the starter motor, or got somthing else in mind?

240 inverter, battery's and a single phase 2.2kw motor?
 
aye, probably some hype in there, but these brushless motors have come a long way eh :)
So I am guessing that you would have extra weight in batteries and I wonder how much draw would be created. Would this extra power be ruined by the alternator charging or supplying the electric sc
 
So I am guessing that you would have extra weight in batteries and I wonder how much draw would be created. Would this extra power be ruined by the alternator charging or supplying the electric sc
145 amps aint it chris ? (3.5kw @ 24v) so 2 or 3 x the alternator output at full chat, so limited to short bursts really eh (a bit like a nos setup)
 
145 amps aint it chris ? (3.5kw @ 24v) so 2 or 3 x the alternator output at full chat, so limited to short bursts really eh (a bit like a nos setup)
I suppose, it's a small amount of time being used. Intermittent at best. @pork do you know how much parasitic losses you have through the sc?
 
positive displacement are about 25% losses under boost iirc, and turbo,s transmit about 5kw from turbine to compressor through that tiny 5mm shaft !
 
positive displacement are about 25% losses under boost iirc, and turbo,s transmit about 5kw from turbine to compressor through that tiny 5mm shaft !
That's scary. I was taking apart a multi vain 400 HP capable turbo yesterday and I looked at it and I was like... You are literally no bigger than t2 dafuq and to have it all runoff tiny little shafts. Apparently they are titanium.

Useless info: I found out yesterday that new cams require no lubrication in their bearings as to heat temper their surfaces. You need to start the engine and keep at 3 grand for 5 mins. Might be a thing of the past but I thought it was cool.
 
like a pressure relief valve neil, so that it only opens the bypass if the pressure difference between the chargepipe and mani is big, the tsi sends the air from the s/c around in a loop till you hit the throttle eh, then it diverts it to the turbo

any diagram on this situation :) yeh g oogle it)
 
Tried the bypass valve plumed into manifold pressure.......extremely big difference on the boost the s/c gives now

The bypass valve doesn't open now when revved stationary......or at all when driving :/

Here's a vid of it stationary, my pre throttle boost gauge only goes to 15, and the neeble is basically bending!



Tried driving it like this, but doesn't work, the bypass valve wouldn't open for some reason

So put feed for bypass valve further up from the original turbo port......here, on the intercooler jus before throttle.
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More drivable, but the bypass valve still opens to early now, I get 7psi on pre t/b gauge, and a few psi on mani gauge

Need to sort out a camera holder lol

 
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