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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-06-30
barely had enough energy on thurs after recovering from covid, I wet sanded the grey primer all smooth with 600grit
began with a light dusting of paint
and then 2 layers of base coat. spraying in this tight cramped garage with the doors still on was very difficult
2022-07-01
on friday with the base coat dried I laid down 3 layers of clear coat
after the lacquer dried in few hours, begin removing all the masking covers
and pushed outside for a better clean & look. the colour match is close enough ?
while drying, some water dripped onto the roof and left a mark on the lacquer ? just hope I can sand it flat & polish it out ?
Overall to paint both rear 1/4, roof line & A-pillar, it's taken:
2.00L of primer (4 cans)
2.10L of base paint (5 cans)
2.25L of lacquer (5 cans)
barely had enough energy on thurs after recovering from covid, I wet sanded the grey primer all smooth with 600grit
began with a light dusting of paint
and then 2 layers of base coat. spraying in this tight cramped garage with the doors still on was very difficult
2022-07-01
on friday with the base coat dried I laid down 3 layers of clear coat
after the lacquer dried in few hours, begin removing all the masking covers
and pushed outside for a better clean & look. the colour match is close enough ?
while drying, some water dripped onto the roof and left a mark on the lacquer ? just hope I can sand it flat & polish it out ?
Overall to paint both rear 1/4, roof line & A-pillar, it's taken:
2.00L of primer (4 cans)
2.10L of base paint (5 cans)
2.25L of lacquer (5 cans)
Looking great 
(my fave k11 colour)
Are you thinking of going turbo again at some point?
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(my fave k11 colour)Are you thinking of going turbo again at some point?
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pollyp
Club Member
thanksLooking great
Are you thinking of going turbo again at some point?
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maybe but it's a very low priority & uneconomical given how ridiculous literally everything costs right now, especially superunleaded, and how little I earn.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
this roll of butyl strip I brought off ebay was slightly stuck to the plastic packaging so peeling it off was abit inconvenient ?
applied the butyl strip to the rear lights, softened with heat gun and pressed into place
interior was a mess of white dust, so I removed the seats to hoover/brush it all clean
washed the body & then fitted the new fresh wheels
ooh she starting to look really nice
applied the butyl strip to the rear lights, softened with heat gun and pressed into place
interior was a mess of white dust, so I removed the seats to hoover/brush it all clean
washed the body & then fitted the new fresh wheels
ooh she starting to look really nice
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2022-07-06
4 days to go, I began machine buffing the panels with G3 till they're shiny
just as I was finishing up, I heard the neighbour opposite my garage storm out, flipped the yard door open almost hitting the car!
he said to me & mom 'I dont ever want to see this car here in the back alley! work on car inside the garage"
"hey this is a public back alley and I need space to work on car/clean car etc"
"I dont fckn care! I give you 1 chance, I'm askin you nicely, you have 5mins move your car or we're gonna have a problem! you a noisy"
I was fuming & thought bout caving his stupid face in but I just stared at him in disguist
he grabs his wheely bin almost scratching my bumper, slams door closed. what a dickhead?
this is the first time I've ever encountered this prick, he looked & sounded like Nico from gta4 lol, must've moved in 1-2yr ago.
recently whenever I've been busy grinding the car inside the garage 6-9pm rebuilding the rear arch trying to make the big car show, I see his roof attic window open and he chucks random rubbish on top of my garage & back alley.
friends & family said we should report the idiot to 101 as a note/record of harrassment, in case it escalates.
this just triggers my anxiety of million thoughts and seriously put me off the mood to finish the car ?
2022-07-08
2 days to go, decided to wrap the roof & sills inside the tight garage with help from family.
measured & peeled the adhesive off the middle section, flipped it over and whilst all 4 corners were kept taught, I slowly pressed the wrap onto the roof from the center outwards using my hand.
but disaster, the uneven pulling & no heating & bubble shaped roof soon created huge crease & bubbles and had to abort ?
fck sake, no wrap remaining, ok plan B is to spray it all black instead.
quickly brought lots of black paint & dust sheets from halfords before it closed.
masked off the roof
starting with a light dust of primer
followed by 2-3 layers of matt black spray paint using upto 4 cans, it stunk of solvents
peeled off the tape whilst wet and it all looked fine ?
4 days to go, I began machine buffing the panels with G3 till they're shiny
just as I was finishing up, I heard the neighbour opposite my garage storm out, flipped the yard door open almost hitting the car!
he said to me & mom 'I dont ever want to see this car here in the back alley! work on car inside the garage"
"hey this is a public back alley and I need space to work on car/clean car etc"
"I dont fckn care! I give you 1 chance, I'm askin you nicely, you have 5mins move your car or we're gonna have a problem! you a noisy"
I was fuming & thought bout caving his stupid face in but I just stared at him in disguist
he grabs his wheely bin almost scratching my bumper, slams door closed. what a dickhead?
this is the first time I've ever encountered this prick, he looked & sounded like Nico from gta4 lol, must've moved in 1-2yr ago.
recently whenever I've been busy grinding the car inside the garage 6-9pm rebuilding the rear arch trying to make the big car show, I see his roof attic window open and he chucks random rubbish on top of my garage & back alley.
friends & family said we should report the idiot to 101 as a note/record of harrassment, in case it escalates.
this just triggers my anxiety of million thoughts and seriously put me off the mood to finish the car ?
2022-07-08
2 days to go, decided to wrap the roof & sills inside the tight garage with help from family.
measured & peeled the adhesive off the middle section, flipped it over and whilst all 4 corners were kept taught, I slowly pressed the wrap onto the roof from the center outwards using my hand.
but disaster, the uneven pulling & no heating & bubble shaped roof soon created huge crease & bubbles and had to abort ?
fck sake, no wrap remaining, ok plan B is to spray it all black instead.
quickly brought lots of black paint & dust sheets from halfords before it closed.
masked off the roof
starting with a light dust of primer
followed by 2-3 layers of matt black spray paint using upto 4 cans, it stunk of solvents
peeled off the tape whilst wet and it all looked fine ?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-07-09
originally I planned to drive over 3hrs straight to the Gravity car show in Coventry, arrive at 7am, stay till 4pm, drive another 4hrs home ? all because the hotels for a single bed 1 night was an insane £150!
but thankfully a club admin told me someone couldn't make it and they had a spare room available for £70 ? yes please!
so on saturday I convoyed with my good car friends TeamWhiteCustoms down to coventry.
it's been months since kassandra had a good cruise and it was a nice hot sunny day for a cruise. no aircon and a hot black roof didn't help lol.
gathered with TWC at york
arrived at the premier inn, I picked a quiet shaded area to clean all the dirt & mess off the car & wheels
all clean & ready for tomorrows show ?
originally I planned to drive over 3hrs straight to the Gravity car show in Coventry, arrive at 7am, stay till 4pm, drive another 4hrs home ? all because the hotels for a single bed 1 night was an insane £150!
but thankfully a club admin told me someone couldn't make it and they had a spare room available for £70 ? yes please!
so on saturday I convoyed with my good car friends TeamWhiteCustoms down to coventry.
it's been months since kassandra had a good cruise and it was a nice hot sunny day for a cruise. no aircon and a hot black roof didn't help lol.
gathered with TWC at york
arrived at the premier inn, I picked a quiet shaded area to clean all the dirt & mess off the car & wheels
all clean & ready for tomorrows show ?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-07-10 Gravity Car Show
7am arrived at Stoneleigh Park, Coventry on the show'n'shine field. kept myself busy/distracted cleaning the car rather than interact with strangers ?
after cleaning, I began wondering around the show from 8-11am whilst it's calm.
nice to see I wasn't the only micra there ?
I even spotted Boris! ?
entering 1 of the 4 huge main halls, seeing the amount of shiny glorious exotic cars is jaw dropping ?
soo much to see & drool!
there's even a Koenigsegg Regera ?
found the Max puwer reunion stand ?
it was a huge show (not as huge as japfest silvestone imo) and a very very hot day too.
but the problem is there was far too many ppl there, no crowd control or security so by 1pm the inside halls were gridlocked with crowds,
absolutely hot/stuffy,
ppl cant see or photograph the cars,
many many show cars were even damaged/scratched/vandelised!
food & drink & ice cream soon ran short, toilets a mess,
it took my friends 3-4hrs just to park up through the traffic jam and then stand in miles of queue to get in
so overall even though there were lots of interesting cars to see (when quiet) the whole thing was poorly organised, lack of facilities & resources.
7am arrived at Stoneleigh Park, Coventry on the show'n'shine field. kept myself busy/distracted cleaning the car rather than interact with strangers ?
after cleaning, I began wondering around the show from 8-11am whilst it's calm.
nice to see I wasn't the only micra there ?
I even spotted Boris! ?
entering 1 of the 4 huge main halls, seeing the amount of shiny glorious exotic cars is jaw dropping ?
soo much to see & drool!
there's even a Koenigsegg Regera ?
found the Max puwer reunion stand ?
it was a huge show (not as huge as japfest silvestone imo) and a very very hot day too.
but the problem is there was far too many ppl there, no crowd control or security so by 1pm the inside halls were gridlocked with crowds,
absolutely hot/stuffy,
ppl cant see or photograph the cars,
many many show cars were even damaged/scratched/vandelised!
food & drink & ice cream soon ran short, toilets a mess,
it took my friends 3-4hrs just to park up through the traffic jam and then stand in miles of queue to get in
so overall even though there were lots of interesting cars to see (when quiet) the whole thing was poorly organised, lack of facilities & resources.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
after the Gravity show, I discovered the bodyfilled roof had cracked from the intense heat of sun cooking the black roof and flexing of the chassis ?
I may have to chisel all £80 worth of bodyfiller off the roof someday but for now with the last show in Doncaster next weekend I just sealed the gap with ducktape ?
I may have to chisel all £80 worth of bodyfiller off the roof someday but for now with the last show in Doncaster next weekend I just sealed the gap with ducktape ?
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-07-22 Wooden Boot Floor & Subwoofer Mounting
got some OSB wood to make a rigid boot floor to bolt the subwoofer onto. marked a template of the boot carpet
cut to fit the boot
to fasten the subwoofer to the floor (and get rid of the straps) I printed these mounting blocks
screwed to the sides of the sub box
used a pointy bolt to mark where to drill the bolt holes on the wooden board and insert riv-nuts
bolted the sub onto the new wood floor
glued the carpet onto the wood floor & cut around the bolt holes
quickly sprayed it black & installed the floor/sub in the boot
reorganising the wiring
all neat & secure
got some OSB wood to make a rigid boot floor to bolt the subwoofer onto. marked a template of the boot carpet
cut to fit the boot
to fasten the subwoofer to the floor (and get rid of the straps) I printed these mounting blocks
screwed to the sides of the sub box
used a pointy bolt to mark where to drill the bolt holes on the wooden board and insert riv-nuts
bolted the sub onto the new wood floor
glued the carpet onto the wood floor & cut around the bolt holes
quickly sprayed it black & installed the floor/sub in the boot
reorganising the wiring
all neat & secure
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-07-24 Doncaster Autoshow
6am gathered with Teamwhitecustoms in york to convoy down to Doncaster
it was a good show at doncaster with lots of cars to wonder around and some drift/stunt action to watch. mostly dry but rained later
to my surprise, I found out I'd won an award for "spirit of the show" ???
yayyy really chuffed ?
we all had a photo together before heading home ?
6am gathered with Teamwhitecustoms in york to convoy down to Doncaster
it was a good show at doncaster with lots of cars to wonder around and some drift/stunt action to watch. mostly dry but rained later
to my surprise, I found out I'd won an award for "spirit of the show" ???
yayyy really chuffed ?
we all had a photo together before heading home ?
I like the addition Paul, a mate of mine used to run a drag bike called 'Little Shy Tot'before the doncaster autoshow, removed the wheels to clean
View attachment 78408
sprayed with autoglym magma cleaner
View attachment 78409
wheels all sparkly
View attachment 78410
car jet washed & wiped dry ready for the show
View attachment 78411
View attachment 78412View attachment 78413
little small addition ?
View attachment 78414
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
noticed recently that the coolant gauge & ecu temp sensor drops to 77c while cruising on motorway, 80c around town and 70c when coasting downhill as if the old oem Nissan thermostat ain't fully closing and overcooling.
removed it to check and yeah, the rubber sealing lip on the valve has worn off and leaking.
nissan4u says the part# was 2120099B02
Searching this on ebay brings up a Gates TH12782G1
Which also features a bleed valve.
It's odd why the Nissan unit uses a rubber coated plunger whilst the Gates is all metal
tested the old valve in boiling water and the valve is definately worn cos it only closes at 77c (not the original 82c) and can still see a tiny gap from the missing rubber seal
closer look at the worn plunger
went for a test run on the new Gates valve and it's perfectly normal.
coolant warms up really quickly,
and then maintains a constant solid 82-84c,
it only peaks at 86c when pushed hard WOT,
and sits at 91-97c when stationary.
as if the old oem Nissan thermostat ain't fully closing and overcooling.removed it to check and yeah, the rubber sealing lip on the valve has worn off and leaking.
nissan4u says the part# was 2120099B02
Searching this on ebay brings up a Gates TH12782G1
Which also features a bleed valve.
It's odd why the Nissan unit uses a rubber coated plunger whilst the Gates is all metal
tested the old valve in boiling water and the valve is definately worn cos it only closes at 77c (not the original 82c) and can still see a tiny gap from the missing rubber seal
closer look at the worn plunger
went for a test run on the new Gates valve and it's perfectly normal.
coolant warms up really quickly,
and then maintains a constant solid 82-84c,
it only peaks at 86c when pushed hard WOT,
and sits at 91-97c when stationary.
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pollyp
Club Member
had the leaking nail on a front right tyre repaired at the local kwikfit.
was disappointed to find it costs £25! (I just needed a nail fixed, not a new tyre ?)
and their damn tyre machine jaws damaged the freshly painted wheels ?
not going there anymore ?
I should've travelled bit further back to TES in middlesbrough who refurbed these wheels and will have the correct machinery
was disappointed to find it costs £25! (I just needed a nail fixed, not a new tyre ?)
and their damn tyre machine jaws damaged the freshly painted wheels ?
not going there anymore ?
I should've travelled bit further back to TES in middlesbrough who refurbed these wheels and will have the correct machinery
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pollyp
Club Member
the old air intake pipe support was bolted to the solid bulkhead while the vibrating engine moves around, which ain't good ?
so I decided to secure the intake pipe down onto the clutch cable bracket/gearbox, therefore the engine & intake pipe moves together.
I clamped the new support beam into place
tack welded
welded up solid & painted
installed like this
the pipe & filter are now anchored solid with the engine and it's also provided more pipe length to fit a full pringles tube next ?
so I decided to secure the intake pipe down onto the clutch cable bracket/gearbox, therefore the engine & intake pipe moves together.
I clamped the new support beam into place
tack welded
welded up solid & painted
installed like this
the pipe & filter are now anchored solid with the engine and it's also provided more pipe length to fit a full pringles tube next ?
Tubeless Car Tyre Puncture Repair Kits
I bought a basic kit with auger/insertion tools & enough plugs for 15 repairs for a tenner about 12 years ago & so far repaired three different punctures on my vehicle with no problems, cheap as chips & a lot less hassle then getting ripped off by so the called quick free fit merchants.
Easy to do when combined with UTube video tutorials instructions
Amazon.co.uk : car tyre puncture repair kit
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pollyp
Club Member
I really have to try this out. hopefully be better than my old "woodscrew & tigerseal" fix ?
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-08-21 Replace rear wheel bearing
for the past few months the old wheel bearings were slightly grumply, they were pre-used & fitted in 2016.
removed both hubs
entered the nissan4u part# on ebay and got this KIT896 hub
swapped over the longer studs
and now the rear end is quiet
lets have a look at why the old ones failed
the rear left hub was fine, all the surfaces are shiny smooth
but the grumbly rear right bearing had really gunked rusty grease (water got inside).
the inner bearing ain't so bad
but the outer bearing facing the hub cap, you can clearly see water got in and corroded the surfaces making it noisy
for the past few months the old wheel bearings were slightly grumply, they were pre-used & fitted in 2016.
removed both hubs
entered the nissan4u part# on ebay and got this KIT896 hub
swapped over the longer studs
and now the rear end is quiet
lets have a look at why the old ones failed
the rear left hub was fine, all the surfaces are shiny smooth
but the grumbly rear right bearing had really gunked rusty grease (water got inside).
the inner bearing ain't so bad
but the outer bearing facing the hub cap, you can clearly see water got in and corroded the surfaces making it noisy
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pollyp
Club Member
2022-09-01 Air filter rattle
For the past few months ever since I ducted the air filter over to the left wing cavity there's this annoying metallic rattle only at 4k rpm full throttle. sounds like a loose washer
maybe the aluminium duct was too rigid, resonating & 4k & transferring engine vibrations over to the chassis?
so I made a soft foam duct, it still rattled
tried a thicker rubber sheet duct to stop it collapsing during WOT / low intake pressure, still rattles
the air intake port faces against the left wing panel, maybe the induction noise at full throttle was enough to shake the wing panel which transfers to the bulkhead?
so I attached some extra rubber & foam inside to reduce shaking, but again it still rattles at 4k
maybe the noise is resonating within the left wing cavity like a speaker enclosure?
so I removed the wheel arch liner, still rattles
it only stops rattling when the duct is either removed or not attached/sealed to the left wing
me m8 Jack mentioned maybe the air filter was shaking/resonating with the engine and sending that noise along the duct.
factory air boxes are usually attached to the solid chassis and join the shaking engine via flexi hose.
so I moved the filter over to the chassis and used a rubber hose to keep engine vibrations away. this worked
to secure the air filter to the chassis, I modelled a rigid mount/intake port
printed & glued
attached the filter to the intake pipe with a silicone hose
most of the 4k rpm rattle has gone away
For the past few months ever since I ducted the air filter over to the left wing cavity there's this annoying metallic rattle only at 4k rpm full throttle. sounds like a loose washer
maybe the aluminium duct was too rigid, resonating & 4k & transferring engine vibrations over to the chassis?
so I made a soft foam duct, it still rattled
tried a thicker rubber sheet duct to stop it collapsing during WOT / low intake pressure, still rattles
the air intake port faces against the left wing panel, maybe the induction noise at full throttle was enough to shake the wing panel which transfers to the bulkhead?
so I attached some extra rubber & foam inside to reduce shaking, but again it still rattles at 4k
maybe the noise is resonating within the left wing cavity like a speaker enclosure?
so I removed the wheel arch liner, still rattles
it only stops rattling when the duct is either removed or not attached/sealed to the left wing
me m8 Jack mentioned maybe the air filter was shaking/resonating with the engine and sending that noise along the duct.
factory air boxes are usually attached to the solid chassis and join the shaking engine via flexi hose.
so I moved the filter over to the chassis and used a rubber hose to keep engine vibrations away. this worked
to secure the air filter to the chassis, I modelled a rigid mount/intake port
printed & glued
attached the filter to the intake pipe with a silicone hose
most of the 4k rpm rattle has gone away
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Very nice neat install can I ask are you using pla or abs? And I bet that was a few hours printing 
Sent from my SM-F926B using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Sent from my SM-F926B using Micra Sports Club mobile app
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pollyp
Club Member
cheers m8Very nice neat install can I ask are you using pla or abs? And I bet that was a few hours printing
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It's with PLA on my Creality ender 3 v2
not tried ABS on it yet
yeah I had to go through bout 3 iterations (cos intake pipe angle didn't line up correctly)
and the two big halves took bout 10hrs in total to make
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pollyp
Club Member
noticed the fuel return hose was showing a few cracks, so I best grab a new hose from halfords ?
few cracks from near the fuel rail. maybe it was getting old/hard & cracking from the vibration flexing?
it's almost 12yrs old whereas the new one is 6mth old
fresh hose fitted
few cracks from near the fuel rail. maybe it was getting old/hard & cracking from the vibration flexing?
it's almost 12yrs old whereas the new one is 6mth old
fresh hose fitted
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pollyp
Club Member
It would be nice but take lot of my time/energy so it'll be low in my todo list
Well done, have a lovely adventure
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pollyp
Club Member
the tiny 40mm axial fans on the 3D printer have always been too loud & weak, so I brought some 40mm radial blower fans which can run quieter & more static pressure
designed a T-shaped mount to secure the fans
one fan held close to the hot end heatsink
the other fan blows downward into the integrated parts-cooling nozzle
printed the mount
fitted the parts cooler fan
and the heatsink fan
dismantled the hot end
fitted the new assembly
all working nicely.
used a voltage reg to tune the fan freq till it's quieter but still cools enough
designed a T-shaped mount to secure the fans
one fan held close to the hot end heatsink
the other fan blows downward into the integrated parts-cooling nozzle
printed the mount
fitted the parts cooler fan
and the heatsink fan
dismantled the hot end
fitted the new assembly
all working nicely.
used a voltage reg to tune the fan freq till it's quieter but still cools enough
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pollyp
Club Member
the rear window louvres I made for a friend out of perspex broke apart cos it's too brittle, so I made a new one out of tougher polycarbonate
heating & bending this 3mm thick plastic with a regular heatgun was extremely difficult & inconsistant.
too cold, and it's very hard to bend, or partially ?
too hot, and it bubbles ?
with little time left, I decided to make it from thin sheet steel
bent & welded the louvres
grinded smooth
painted & lacquered
it looked gr8 but unfortunately due to the straight louvres it was impossible to bend it to follow the curved glass without buckling the delicate shape ?
so I'll have to make yet another one but this time I'll have to mount the flat border plate onto the curved glass first,
and then shape/trim each louvre to follow the curve before gluing them on
heating & bending this 3mm thick plastic with a regular heatgun was extremely difficult & inconsistant.
too cold, and it's very hard to bend, or partially ?
too hot, and it bubbles ?
with little time left, I decided to make it from thin sheet steel
bent & welded the louvres
grinded smooth
painted & lacquered
it looked gr8 but unfortunately due to the straight louvres it was impossible to bend it to follow the curved glass without buckling the delicate shape ?
so I'll have to make yet another one but this time I'll have to mount the flat border plate onto the curved glass first,
and then shape/trim each louvre to follow the curve before gluing them on
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pollyp
Club Member
the thin clutch pedal arm tends to bend left over time due to the heavy clutch
so I strip & reinforce it
while cleaning I also found a crack developing at the top from years of stress
welded the crack
welded some 4mm flat bar across the arm to stiffen it
the pedal feels much more rigid now during use ?
so I strip & reinforce it
while cleaning I also found a crack developing at the top from years of stress
welded the crack
welded some 4mm flat bar across the arm to stiffen it
the pedal feels much more rigid now during use ?
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pollyp
Club Member
during cold starts I sometimes notice a tiny bit more valve tapping, so I checked the valve clearances
cams looking abit darker gold, guess the oil needs changing more regularly ?
all clearances are perfect except one of the cyl 4 exhaust valve is slightly too loose, might explain the little tapping.
I'll recheck it when warm.
cams looking abit darker gold, guess the oil needs changing more regularly ?
all clearances are perfect except one of the cyl 4 exhaust valve is slightly too loose, might explain the little tapping.
I'll recheck it when warm.
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pollyp
Club Member
the old LSD has been sitting around ever since I found the lid/bearing had cracked apart in 2019 (was worried I lost my receipt yrs ago and might not be covered, & a new lid costs over £230) but I finally contacted Gripper about it and they said they have a new batch of lids & will fix it under warranty huge relief
lower ball joint knocking loose again and with MOT in Dec it's time to replace it
not too bad, the dust boot keeping moisture out, bearing is slightly too loose within the hole
added some tacks and grinded it till the bearing sits really snug against the c-clip
fresh bearings to fit tomorrow
huge relief
lower ball joint knocking loose again and with MOT in Dec it's time to replace it
not too bad, the dust boot keeping moisture out, bearing is slightly too loose within the hole
added some tacks and grinded it till the bearing sits really snug against the c-clip
fresh bearings to fit tomorrow
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pollyp
Club Member
her very dark oil was well overdue a change after 6mths ?
the front crank seal was leaking & probably worn so I brought some new seals from work
opened up the worn spherical bearing and once again after 1yr of daily use,
the up/down motion has worn the grey teflon coating off the thin brass shoulders till the clearances are sloppy.
seems these bearings with their slim profile are not suitable for the thrust loads coming from the suspension movement
the front crank seal was leaking & probably worn so I brought some new seals from work
opened up the worn spherical bearing and once again after 1yr of daily use,
the up/down motion has worn the grey teflon coating off the thin brass shoulders till the clearances are sloppy.
seems these bearings with their slim profile are not suitable for the thrust loads coming from the suspension movement
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pollyp
Club Member
I'd like to but it's a lot of re-engineering
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pollyp
Club Member
time to fix the fuel tanks 2 issues:
- replace rusty old heat shield,
- replace the old kinked/hardened fuel filler breather hose which causes the refuel nozzle to click too early
I've driven the car till the fuel light just comes on.
To empty the tank I hooked the hose from the filter into a fuel can and turn IGN on.
It only took 2.5L from when the warning light is on till the pump runs dry, approx 20 miles of reserve fuel
dropped the tank
chassis underneath was still fine so that's a relief
emptied the tank and even though the pump ran dry, there was still about 8L of fuel left in the tank (approx 70 miles worth)
opening the fuel tank access port
here's the walbro pump sitting inside this reservoir. old zip-ties & rubber foam in the fuel has shrunken slightly so retightened it up
hints of some metal debris in the strainer
it's baffling how the pump sits in this plastic "cup" so even if the pump has ran out dry, there's still 8L of fuel left sitting outside this reservoir?
would like to remove & drill some holes at the side of the reservoir but cannot figure out how on earth it unclips off the fuel tank base? anyone tried or destroyed any?
there's this return hose fitting at the bottom with no idea how it detaches
here's my findings.
the whole tank takes 42L from bone dry > brim full
the old heat shield has rusted away
Jack gave me a spare shield
fits gr8
here's the 13yr old coolant hose I used as a filler breather hose which is now kinked & all age hardened from fuel ?
had no time to order some J20R9 5/8" fuel hose so I brought the same J30R3 coolant hose for now ?
used part of this throttle body coolant hose to form a sharp smooth bend inbetween the straight 5/8 hoses so it doesn't kink where it passes through the chassis hole
wiggling the tank back on was a pain to do
all reassembled
- replace rusty old heat shield,
- replace the old kinked/hardened fuel filler breather hose which causes the refuel nozzle to click too early
I've driven the car till the fuel light just comes on.
To empty the tank I hooked the hose from the filter into a fuel can and turn IGN on.
It only took 2.5L from when the warning light is on till the pump runs dry, approx 20 miles of reserve fuel
dropped the tank
chassis underneath was still fine so that's a relief
emptied the tank and even though the pump ran dry, there was still about 8L of fuel left in the tank (approx 70 miles worth)
opening the fuel tank access port
here's the walbro pump sitting inside this reservoir. old zip-ties & rubber foam in the fuel has shrunken slightly so retightened it up
hints of some metal debris in the strainer
it's baffling how the pump sits in this plastic "cup" so even if the pump has ran out dry, there's still 8L of fuel left sitting outside this reservoir?
would like to remove & drill some holes at the side of the reservoir but cannot figure out how on earth it unclips off the fuel tank base? anyone tried or destroyed any?
there's this return hose fitting at the bottom with no idea how it detaches
here's my findings.
the whole tank takes 42L from bone dry > brim full
the old heat shield has rusted away
Jack gave me a spare shield
fits gr8
here's the 13yr old coolant hose I used as a filler breather hose which is now kinked & all age hardened from fuel ?
had no time to order some J20R9 5/8" fuel hose so I brought the same J30R3 coolant hose for now ?
used part of this throttle body coolant hose to form a sharp smooth bend inbetween the straight 5/8 hoses so it doesn't kink where it passes through the chassis hole
wiggling the tank back on was a pain to do
all reassembled
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
That's a later pump.
Mine is an earlier 1993 SLX reservoir with the bigger pump.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
removing the cams to adjust the clearances
taking the shims out
organised the collection of shims
rearranged the shims needed
went for a drive to warm it up and measure the valve clearances hot
hmm either my new feeler gauges were slightly off or some of the shims I rearranged were thinner than I thought cos the intake valves & exhaust #3 are a fraction too loose. maybe it needs more time to settle down
taking the shims out
organised the collection of shims
rearranged the shims needed
went for a drive to warm it up and measure the valve clearances hot
hmm either my new feeler gauges were slightly off or some of the shims I rearranged were thinner than I thought cos the intake valves & exhaust #3 are a fraction too loose. maybe it needs more time to settle down
my guess why there is an extra reservoir in the tank: if you drive hard corners and the fuel lewel is low, the fuel pumpe might suck air... which is no good neither for the fuel pump nor the engine, injectors...
Look at the videp 1275 posted. the newer model had an even more closed reservoir where the pump is in.
Also my guess is that your old model releases the reservoir the same way, as the new models. Engineers like to keep stuff the way they were, like the tank itself
Look at the videp 1275 posted. the newer model had an even more closed reservoir where the pump is in.
Also my guess is that your old model releases the reservoir the same way, as the new models. Engineers like to keep stuff the way they were, like the tank itself
