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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2021-05-10
the exhaust often felt kinda choked at high end with the 2nd cat in place for last years MOT, so it's time to resort back to de-cat.
but first one of the v-band flange needed swapping around
I cut the female flange off the downpipe
grinded the old weld down
welded the new male end on
and then I could make the new stainless de-cat pipe
now with only the primary manifold cat in place, the mid & high end feels slightly faster
the exhaust often felt kinda choked at high end with the 2nd cat in place for last years MOT, so it's time to resort back to de-cat.
but first one of the v-band flange needed swapping around
I cut the female flange off the downpipe
grinded the old weld down
welded the new male end on
and then I could make the new stainless de-cat pipe
now with only the primary manifold cat in place, the mid & high end feels slightly faster
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2021-05-11
for the last few months my mini lathe seems like it's shocking/tingling me whenever it's powered and my hands brush against any steel surfaces ?
time for a well overdue clean up
and yup looks like all the swarf had gone into the motor and causing a slight short from the live parts to the casing to the steel frame
after clearing the swarf it's no longer as shocking ?
for the last few months my mini lathe seems like it's shocking/tingling me whenever it's powered and my hands brush against any steel surfaces ?
time for a well overdue clean up
and yup looks like all the swarf had gone into the motor and causing a slight short from the live parts to the casing to the steel frame
after clearing the swarf it's no longer as shocking ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2021-05-12
another gr8 busy wednesday car meet on a warm sunny evening this time ?
later on I discovered someone with a clean 02 1.4 facelift, preface superS front end, march style boot lid, gizfab bits, BC BR coilovers ?
me m8s frankie & zara also found a good gathering of their red MX5's ?
another gr8 busy wednesday car meet on a warm sunny evening this time ?
later on I discovered someone with a clean 02 1.4 facelift, preface superS front end, march style boot lid, gizfab bits, BC BR coilovers ?
me m8s frankie & zara also found a good gathering of their red MX5's ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the cheap £6-8 Dunlop FP-M12C tie-rod ends don't last long (only 1yr) and the one I replaced recently was defective and already too sloppy ?
so I brought these more pricey £16 XFRM12 joints which has previously lasted 2+yrs
cut & machined the threaded part off some spare old tie-rods to weld onto the short rod-ends
realised they have m12x1.75 threads so I had to retap them to m12x1.25
so I can join em with a spare tie-rod for welding
so I brought these more pricey £16 XFRM12 joints which has previously lasted 2+yrs
cut & machined the threaded part off some spare old tie-rods to weld onto the short rod-ends
realised they have m12x1.75 threads so I had to retap them to m12x1.25
so I can join em with a spare tie-rod for welding
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the slower TIG welding puts soo much heat into the metal so I had to weld 10mm at a time immediately followed by quenching in water so the heat doesn't damage the teflon lining and then do a rapid pulsed final pass to even out the surface finish
removed the old worn cheap rod-end
double checking the clearances of the new joint
added the dust boot to the new joint
realign & test drive it tomorrow
removed the old worn cheap rod-end
double checking the clearances of the new joint
added the dust boot to the new joint
realign & test drive it tomorrow
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
assessing the old worn tie-rods, the spherical ball is quite corroded with heavy deposits of the teflon lining
cutting it apart and I'm surprised to see that the cheap rod-ends consists of a separate spherical bearing pressed into a thin-walled tie-rod housing. so during a trackday, all the steering tension forces is going through a 2mm thick ring ?
inside is a brass mesh coated in teflon? which has clearly worn through and deposited onto the polished sphere over a short time
I wasn't happy with only 15mm of thread engaging
so I welded an extra piece of threaded end to lengthen the tie-rod end
applied an updated CCS sticker with new letters
cutting it apart and I'm surprised to see that the cheap rod-ends consists of a separate spherical bearing pressed into a thin-walled tie-rod housing. so during a trackday, all the steering tension forces is going through a 2mm thick ring ?
inside is a brass mesh coated in teflon? which has clearly worn through and deposited onto the polished sphere over a short time
I wasn't happy with only 15mm of thread engaging
so I welded an extra piece of threaded end to lengthen the tie-rod end
applied an updated CCS sticker with new letters
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
on sunday the CCS club had a convoy trip from a rainy teesside park going upto a sunny scenic Clay Bank park
with no idea where we were all going, following behind each car was quite stressful whenever we get stuck at the red lights and having to rush to catch back up ?
the next destination at Saltburn was abit easier when I overhead the postcode to plot onto my satnav beforehand.
with no idea where we were all going, following behind each car was quite stressful whenever we get stuck at the red lights and having to rush to catch back up ?
the next destination at Saltburn was abit easier when I overhead the postcode to plot onto my satnav beforehand.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the bathroom tap has been leaking for a few yrs, so i tried to unscrew & pull it apart only to end up snapping the rusty parts off ??
when a 5min job turned into a "Oh crap it might be a big repair job" ?
there's lots of corrosion and small bits to maybe TIG weld?
checking my spares plumbing toolbox I discovered this used valve from the kitchen tap is compatible with the bathroom tap housing
and it worked. saved hours of work and no longer leaks ?
when a 5min job turned into a "Oh crap it might be a big repair job" ?
there's lots of corrosion and small bits to maybe TIG weld?
checking my spares plumbing toolbox I discovered this used valve from the kitchen tap is compatible with the bathroom tap housing
and it worked. saved hours of work and no longer leaks ?
where is the fxxxing mods and admin on this site, this is spam, ya need to up ya game a bit lads and lasses
Well I have to agree, I reported this some time yesterday...
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
m8 Daniels new carbon spoiler wasnt sitting flush to the boot due to the petruding screw head underneath the base panel
so I carefully countersunk the cheap ebay fiberglass base panel holes to make the screws sit flush
ran out of sealant so I applied some foam tape
cleaned the old gunk off the boot too
sits slightly better on the boot lid
so I carefully countersunk the cheap ebay fiberglass base panel holes to make the screws sit flush
ran out of sealant so I applied some foam tape
cleaned the old gunk off the boot too
sits slightly better on the boot lid
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
peeled off the temporary 'electrical tape' sun strip but looks like the sun had cooked the glue onto the glass ?
cleaned the glue off the glass after a lot of messy rubbing with acetone
applied the new new vinyl sun strip to align with the horizon
gave her a wash for tomorrows cruise & car meet
cleaned the glue off the glass after a lot of messy rubbing with acetone
applied the new new vinyl sun strip to align with the horizon
gave her a wash for tomorrows cruise & car meet
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
had this spare dash cam with a small lightweight reversing camera, which is perfect for filming my front tyre flexing under load.
the CCD inside was wonky by 6deg so I printed this mount which holds it angled on the end of a threaded rod
rod is bolted to the tow bracket and is at the perfect angle. can't wait to test it on a dry day
the CCD inside was wonky by 6deg so I printed this mount which holds it angled on the end of a threaded rod
rod is bolted to the tow bracket and is at the perfect angle. can't wait to test it on a dry day
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
went for a run after sunset and it worked ok
the long rod zip tied to the bumper obviously vibrates with the engine at low rpm but is fine at high speeds, so I may use a lighter/hollow/big diameter tube to reduce movement.
the dash cam captured the interior shot & tyre cam in 'meh' quality but the highly inefficient file system was a pain to process.
it records each camera in 5min segments, each being 700mb and each had to be slowly converted from MOV into MP4 for the PC editor to import (otherwise it crashes) ?
the long rod zip tied to the bumper obviously vibrates with the engine at low rpm but is fine at high speeds, so I may use a lighter/hollow/big diameter tube to reduce movement.
the dash cam captured the interior shot & tyre cam in 'meh' quality but the highly inefficient file system was a pain to process.
it records each camera in 5min segments, each being 700mb and each had to be slowly converted from MOV into MP4 for the PC editor to import (otherwise it crashes) ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
got myself a compact digital oscilliscope which will come handy for electrical diagnosis.
plus a new 17mm impact socket cos the 17mm in my impact socket set was seriously made wonky and would wobble badly
and now this new 17mm spins perfectly centered ?
decided to paint a subtle red lip around the white wheels to divide/transition between the bright white and grey/black tyres ?
plus a new 17mm impact socket cos the 17mm in my impact socket set was seriously made wonky and would wobble badly
and now this new 17mm spins perfectly centered ?
decided to paint a subtle red lip around the white wheels to divide/transition between the bright white and grey/black tyres ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
ducktaped this perspex to the tyre camera mount in an attempt to stiffen support & reduce shaking.
if anything it actually made it shake even more lol
good thing the shakey footage is downsized smaller compared to the stable HD GoPro camera.
went for another sunny weekend drive to test it out ?
if anything it actually made it shake even more lol
good thing the shakey footage is downsized smaller compared to the stable HD GoPro camera.
went for another sunny weekend drive to test it out ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
took a covid self test on thursday, eeeks its like shuving a tickly feather down my throat & nose, made me gag & sneeze ? but at least it was negative
Friday the next day after work I drove all way up to Hexham to get me 1st Pfizer jab.
overall it was a pleasant experience, friendly ppl, honestly the needle was sooo tiny I didn't even feel it.
18:30 I had the jab
21:00 the muscle around the jab area was only slightly beginning to ache a bit
09:00 Saturday next morning the jab area was still slightly aching and had a dull tension headache, but that was normal for me on weekends which was fixed with ibuprofen
Sunday I was all fine
? but at least it was negative
Friday the next day after work I drove all way up to Hexham to get me 1st Pfizer jab.
overall it was a pleasant experience, friendly ppl, honestly the needle was sooo tiny I didn't even feel it.
18:30 I had the jab
21:00 the muscle around the jab area was only slightly beginning to ache a bit
09:00 Saturday next morning the jab area was still slightly aching and had a dull tension headache, but that was normal for me on weekends which was fixed with ibuprofen
Sunday I was all fine
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
over the weekend I went to get a whole load of grey paint, white etch primer & laquer and decided to strip apart all her doors to fix all the rust
to remove the rear door window, I lower the window & unbolt the metal divider
the rear 1/4 glass simply swings off
it sat in this groove
I quite like this pillar-less look
since I never use the rear windows, I think I'll just tigerseal some perspex over it instead
removing the window reveals all the rust holes ?
rust #1 on the right door
rust #2 on the right door
this one's the worst on the right door
rust #4 on the left door
finally the front passenger door had bubbling rust
to remove the rear door window, I lower the window & unbolt the metal divider
the rear 1/4 glass simply swings off
it sat in this groove
I quite like this pillar-less look
since I never use the rear windows, I think I'll just tigerseal some perspex over it instead
removing the window reveals all the rust holes ?
rust #1 on the right door
rust #2 on the right door
this one's the worst on the right door
rust #4 on the left door
finally the front passenger door had bubbling rust
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Daniel in his Audi TT turbo needed a stainless intake pipe making, so here's the original plumbing with the black plastic elbow pipe leading from the MAF down to the turbo inlet
gathered all the stainless materials
trimmed & tacked the pipes together
drilled hole for the breather port
the original pipe had this sharp bend near the turbo inlet whereas the new stainless pipe has a smooth gentle bend
bolted up neatly and looks gr8. he said it spooled up slightly sooner too which is good news ?
gathered all the stainless materials
trimmed & tacked the pipes together
drilled hole for the breather port
the original pipe had this sharp bend near the turbo inlet whereas the new stainless pipe has a smooth gentle bend
bolted up neatly and looks gr8. he said it spooled up slightly sooner too which is good news ?
Agree, that is the main reason I prefer the look of the 3 door K12 over the 5 door one....
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
removed all the doors, wings, bonnet, bumpers so that I can wirebrush & rattle can the rear wheel arch, scuttle panel & sills.
then repair the doors & sand all the panels down in preparation to take them all over to Luke on saturday to respray them properly with his spray gun & 500ml tin of base coat
then repair the doors & sand all the panels down in preparation to take them all over to Luke on saturday to respray them properly with his spray gun & 500ml tin of base coat
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
welded & smoothed the rear offside door rust patches
for the lower corner, welded the vertical backing plate 1st
and then weld & smooth the curved edge
weld & smoothed the rear nearside door
time to fully strip apart the doors, wirebrush & treat & bodyfill the rust patches
on the nearside door this is where the water drain got under the seam sealer and started bubbling the inside & outside edge
slightly bubbling around the rear drain hole
stripping the drivers door
the rubber strip was oddly glued to the door here, which of course torn it
once again the bloody seam sealer just trapping moisture on both drivers side doors till it rusts
the rear door also having the same rusty seam sealer
going to a labour intensive delivery job 9-5 followed immediately by these long nights stripping & repairing kassandras rust in a rush to make the yorkshire modified show on 20th june is beginning to strain my body stamina & mind ??
dunno if I'll have the energy to get it all done in time or collapse or simply throw the towel ?
for the lower corner, welded the vertical backing plate 1st
and then weld & smooth the curved edge
weld & smoothed the rear nearside door
time to fully strip apart the doors, wirebrush & treat & bodyfill the rust patches
on the nearside door this is where the water drain got under the seam sealer and started bubbling the inside & outside edge
slightly bubbling around the rear drain hole
stripping the drivers door
the rubber strip was oddly glued to the door here, which of course torn it
once again the bloody seam sealer just trapping moisture on both drivers side doors till it rusts
the rear door also having the same rusty seam sealer
going to a labour intensive delivery job 9-5 followed immediately by these long nights stripping & repairing kassandras rust in a rush to make the yorkshire modified show on 20th june is beginning to strain my body stamina & mind ??
dunno if I'll have the energy to get it all done in time or collapse or simply throw the towel ?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
I had 500ml tin of base coat plus 4 spraycans but felt this wasn't enough for all the doors & big bonnet & wings,
so this early saturday morning the plan was to go order another 1L of base coat to be sure I had enough, return home to further sand the bonnet & wings before luke arrives on afternoon with his compressor.
that plan was ruined when the store was very busy and had a 2hr waiting list!
so I wasted some time buying an orbital sander to aid sanding the big panels & go for lunch, collected the 1L of paint at 12pm and got home for 1pm where luke just arrived
this was gonna be a huge task which was stressing my tired head. while luke paints the doors & bonnet with the 1.5L of paint (which was thankfully enough) I prepped the bonnet with the new sander
it was a very messy job with paint fumes & dust going everywhere and very limited space to carefully hang the freshly painted panels
the painting was ok, wasn't perfect and a few flies trapped in the layers but it'll do
he told me it takes days to fully harden before any buffing so I gotta store em round the house carefully ?
the rest of the rusty wings, rear 1/4 and both bumpers I'd have to rattle can em myself.
so I bodyfilled the rear arch, but the cheap stuff I got from work was absolute pigsheet, didn't mix proper or harden, so I gotta brush it off tomorrow, get the proper p38 and start again ?
the 1x1m of polycarb sheet arrived for covering the rear door
so this early saturday morning the plan was to go order another 1L of base coat to be sure I had enough, return home to further sand the bonnet & wings before luke arrives on afternoon with his compressor.
that plan was ruined when the store was very busy and had a 2hr waiting list!
so I wasted some time buying an orbital sander to aid sanding the big panels & go for lunch, collected the 1L of paint at 12pm and got home for 1pm where luke just arrived
this was gonna be a huge task which was stressing my tired head. while luke paints the doors & bonnet with the 1.5L of paint (which was thankfully enough) I prepped the bonnet with the new sander
it was a very messy job with paint fumes & dust going everywhere and very limited space to carefully hang the freshly painted panels
the painting was ok, wasn't perfect and a few flies trapped in the layers but it'll do
he told me it takes days to fully harden before any buffing so I gotta store em round the house carefully ?
the rest of the rusty wings, rear 1/4 and both bumpers I'd have to rattle can em myself.
so I bodyfilled the rear arch, but the cheap stuff I got from work was absolute pigsheet, didn't mix proper or harden, so I gotta brush it off tomorrow, get the proper p38 and start again ?
the 1x1m of polycarb sheet arrived for covering the rear door
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the cheap bodyfiller I brought from work was definately old & dried up cos the filler was actually thick like scooping frozen ice cream and very difficult to mix properly.
so this morning I brought some fresh P38 from halfords and wow huge difference. it's much softer like honey and a lot easier to mix thoroughly.
now I can body fill & sand down the rear 1/4
masking
on this hot day, I began spraying with what I assumed was white etching primer that the paint shop gave me.
but to my horror it immediately started cracking apart as it dried, looking like a desert floor ?
the hell !!
I tried sanding it off, which was tricky cos it kept clogging the sand paper ?
degreased it with brake cleaner and tried again with the white primer, only to happen once again ????
FFS
was talkin to Luke about it only to realise the can said it was High-Build white etch primer which wasn't suited for the hot temps and needed thinner layers.
well, I'm fuming, frustrated I messed up, I don't have time to slowly sand this mess down to respray with normal primer, so I just carried on spraying basecoat over this wrinkly mess and it's an eye sore ?
nothing I can do bout it yet cos I have a show on Sunday, but I'll respray it with normal primer soon afterwards.
wirebrushed & treated the rusty front wings
smoothed bodyfiller.
the new orbital sander I brought yesterday makes the job of flattening the bulk of the excess bodyfiller a lot easier & faster compared to previously doing it all manually by hand ?
sprayed it with normal halfords grey primer and it looks a lot better & smoother than the rear 1/4 mess
sprayed 500ml cans of base coat & lacquer per panel and the result is nice ?
all the wobbly inperfect sanding is obvious with a glossy finish now but at least it's no longer rusty ?
to end the long day, all 4 doors were bolted back on
it's taken a full exhausting week to strip, repair & paint all the major body panels ?
half way there and now I'm on the home stretch,
reassembling everything over the next 5 days,
make a new polycarbonate rear door window,
clean all the dust out of every friggin surface of the car,
then polish all the nasty orange peel off the new paint ready for sundays show ?
so this morning I brought some fresh P38 from halfords and wow huge difference. it's much softer like honey and a lot easier to mix thoroughly.
now I can body fill & sand down the rear 1/4
masking
on this hot day, I began spraying with what I assumed was white etching primer that the paint shop gave me.
but to my horror it immediately started cracking apart as it dried, looking like a desert floor ?
the hell !!
I tried sanding it off, which was tricky cos it kept clogging the sand paper ?
degreased it with brake cleaner and tried again with the white primer, only to happen once again ????
FFS
was talkin to Luke about it only to realise the can said it was High-Build white etch primer which wasn't suited for the hot temps and needed thinner layers.
well, I'm fuming, frustrated I messed up, I don't have time to slowly sand this mess down to respray with normal primer, so I just carried on spraying basecoat over this wrinkly mess and it's an eye sore ?
nothing I can do bout it yet cos I have a show on Sunday, but I'll respray it with normal primer soon afterwards.
wirebrushed & treated the rusty front wings
smoothed bodyfiller.
the new orbital sander I brought yesterday makes the job of flattening the bulk of the excess bodyfiller a lot easier & faster compared to previously doing it all manually by hand ?
sprayed it with normal halfords grey primer and it looks a lot better & smoother than the rear 1/4 mess
sprayed 500ml cans of base coat & lacquer per panel and the result is nice ?
all the wobbly inperfect sanding is obvious with a glossy finish now but at least it's no longer rusty ?
to end the long day, all 4 doors were bolted back on
it's taken a full exhausting week to strip, repair & paint all the major body panels ?
half way there and now I'm on the home stretch,
reassembling everything over the next 5 days,
make a new polycarbonate rear door window,
clean all the dust out of every friggin surface of the car,
then polish all the nasty orange peel off the new paint ready for sundays show ?
Polly, I would have rather you stayed focused on a slow job and skip the deadline. Maybe just go with a mate next time a deadline approaches? I've stopped with the crazy deadlines now, and my life is much more balanced!
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
I already paid for and commited to going to the show, chosing to fix this rust 2weeks ahead but as usual the job always ends up bigger than expected.
was determined to do whats neccessary to get the car ready for the big show (maybe only show of the year if covid gets any worse) even if I'd have to push my body hard.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
it's halfords matt black
the 3mm seems stiff enough but as I'll write about further down, I should've heated & curved it to relieve stress cos it peeled the tigerseal off the door frame
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Polycarbonate Rear Door Window
made a cardboard template of the rear door window
carefully jigsawed & trimmed the polycarbonate sheet
clamping the sheet to the door within a small garage was near impossible so I removed both doors to clamp em separately
apply a thick bead of tigerseal
I simply couldn't get enough clamps to hold this flat straight sheet against the curved door frame
but disaster!
after removing the clamps for a day, the polycarb sheet on the rear offside door had cleanly peeled straight off ?
it seems that the halfords lacquer wasn't actually fully cured so the solvent reacted with tigerseal preventing it from bonding/curing to the painted door frame ?
the nearside door which Luke painted with 2k lacquer from his spray gun had fully cured so the tigerseal had no problem curing & bonding the sheet to the door frame...
except I didn't apply enough sealant at the corners, leaving many huge leaky gaps ???
so I abandoned this idea and bashed/peeled the window off the door frame.
maybe in future I'll heat/curve it to the door, apply a thicker bead & rivet it on too.
wirebrushed the tigerseal off the door
reinstalled the windows
made a cardboard template of the rear door window
carefully jigsawed & trimmed the polycarbonate sheet
clamping the sheet to the door within a small garage was near impossible so I removed both doors to clamp em separately
apply a thick bead of tigerseal
I simply couldn't get enough clamps to hold this flat straight sheet against the curved door frame
but disaster!
after removing the clamps for a day, the polycarb sheet on the rear offside door had cleanly peeled straight off ?
it seems that the halfords lacquer wasn't actually fully cured so the solvent reacted with tigerseal preventing it from bonding/curing to the painted door frame ?
the nearside door which Luke painted with 2k lacquer from his spray gun had fully cured so the tigerseal had no problem curing & bonding the sheet to the door frame...
except I didn't apply enough sealant at the corners, leaving many huge leaky gaps ??
?
so I abandoned this idea and bashed/peeled the window off the door frame.
maybe in future I'll heat/curve it to the door, apply a thicker bead & rivet it on too.
wirebrushed the tigerseal off the door
reinstalled the windows
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OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
with 1 day to go till Yorkshire Modified Show and waiting 1 week for the paint to harden,
it's time to visit Luke to help polish all the orange peel off the new paintwork on this hot day
soon realised we only had 1200grit paper and buffing compound but no polish
so a lot of the afternoon was wasted on waiting for ppl to bring some 3000grit paper and polish
lukes corrado bumper need some cooling holes cut out & welded
it took all afternoon for luke to just polish the bonnet enough but at 6pm soon ran out of time as the family & neighbours complained ?
things got worse as he jet washed the passenger door and a whole sheet of lacquer was ripped clean off by the HP jet! ?
I feared that it exposed bare basecoat but its shiny ?
it seems that since he sprayed halfords aerosol lacquer on top of quickly cured 2k lacquer (cos he ran out), it didn't bond well at all and simply peeled off like cling-film ?
so with time running out, I had to drive a half sanded car back home to finish buffing the remaining panels throughout a long night ?
I did a single pass of G3 compound and quickly ran out of steam and just had enough, it'll do
it's time to visit Luke to help polish all the orange peel off the new paintwork on this hot day
soon realised we only had 1200grit paper and buffing compound but no polish
so a lot of the afternoon was wasted on waiting for ppl to bring some 3000grit paper and polish
lukes corrado bumper need some cooling holes cut out & welded
it took all afternoon for luke to just polish the bonnet enough but at 6pm soon ran out of time as the family & neighbours complained ?
things got worse as he jet washed the passenger door and a whole sheet of lacquer was ripped clean off by the HP jet! ?
I feared that it exposed bare basecoat but its shiny ?
it seems that since he sprayed halfords aerosol lacquer on top of quickly cured 2k lacquer (cos he ran out), it didn't bond well at all and simply peeled off like cling-film ?
so with time running out, I had to drive a half sanded car back home to finish buffing the remaining panels throughout a long night ?
I did a single pass of G3 compound and quickly ran out of steam and just had enough, it'll do
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
20-06-2021 Yorkshire Modified Show
The early morning of Yorkshire Modified Show started off rather wet, worrying it was gonna be a muddy soggy grass field.
We began on a nice long convoy through the yorkshire moors towards Malton ??
at the show it stopped raining and quickly got warm, sunny, humid ?
it was a gr8 show with soooo many nice cars to see
the highlight of the day was participating in this grass autotest where anyone can drive their cars (including a caravan, limosine, vans) through a slalom course for just a £!??
my 1st run was a rusty 46s struggling to see the cones while reversing whereas my 2nd run was a quicker 39s, although touching a cone made it 49s but overall it was amazingly cheap fun!
at the end of the show we just had to go park near the pond for a compulsary beauty photos ??
The early morning of Yorkshire Modified Show started off rather wet, worrying it was gonna be a muddy soggy grass field.
We began on a nice long convoy through the yorkshire moors towards Malton ??
at the show it stopped raining and quickly got warm, sunny, humid ?
it was a gr8 show with soooo many nice cars to see
the highlight of the day was participating in this grass autotest where anyone can drive their cars (including a caravan, limosine, vans) through a slalom course for just a £!
??my 1st run was a rusty 46s struggling to see the cones while reversing whereas my 2nd run was a quicker 39s, although touching a cone made it 49s but overall it was amazingly cheap fun!
at the end of the show we just had to go park near the pond for a compulsary beauty photos ??
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
I wasn't happy with the massively orange peeled doors and the badly crackled primer on the rear 1/4
so initially I tried sanding down the orange peel, hoping to polish it flat, but instead it exposed more & more spots of white primer. it was simply too rough when luke sprayed it from his compressor ?
so that was basically a wasted £200 paint job ?
and now I decided to sand it ALL flat including the dimples & dents etc and respray it myself this time with another £200 of cans
wiped with brake cleaner and tested some halfords grey primer on the edges...only to watch it fecking crack apart just like the white etch primer!
arghhhh I was soo angry frustrated, why is it doing this!
oddly it only cracks where I've previously sprayed the white etch primer ?
so after speaking to a paint friend it seems I sprayed too much on the 1st pass (making it skin, shrink & tear whilst the inside layer was still curing)
and the white high build etching plastic primer is mainly for bare metal and could be reacting with fresh paint on top.
to eliminate that reaction, I spent hours sanding ALL of that horrible etch primer off the rear 1/4 till I expose the factory base coat
but from all that sanding I ended up sanding some of my fingers till it bled ??
oopsy that's gonna sting tomorrow ?
so initially I tried sanding down the orange peel, hoping to polish it flat, but instead it exposed more & more spots of white primer. it was simply too rough when luke sprayed it from his compressor ?
so that was basically a wasted £200 paint job ?
and now I decided to sand it ALL flat including the dimples & dents etc and respray it myself this time with another £200 of cans
wiped with brake cleaner and tested some halfords grey primer on the edges...only to watch it fecking crack apart just like the white etch primer!
arghhhh I was soo angry frustrated, why is it doing this!
oddly it only cracks where I've previously sprayed the white etch primer ?
so after speaking to a paint friend it seems I sprayed too much on the 1st pass (making it skin, shrink & tear whilst the inside layer was still curing)
and the white high build etching plastic primer is mainly for bare metal and could be reacting with fresh paint on top.
to eliminate that reaction, I spent hours sanding ALL of that horrible etch primer off the rear 1/4 till I expose the factory base coat
but from all that sanding I ended up sanding some of my fingers till it bled ??
oopsy that's gonna sting tomorrow ?
now ya found the problem paul, am sure it will be right this time "paint society" on youtube, great tips and videos, wanna see the results he gets from a can, although its an American show, principle is the same, is it not...
shes looking good fella get a plaster on it and crack on
"paint society" on youtube, great tips and videos, wanna see the results he gets from a can, although its an American show, principle is the same, is it not...shes looking good fella
get a plaster on it and crack on
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Hoping it goes right this time, brought a ton of primer, paint, lacquer & 5l of pre prepnow ya found the problem paul, am sure it will be right this time
shes looking good fella
Wish this damn weather makes its mind up, its kinda misty/rainy
Finger ain't feeling too bad now but got my Mary golds on now
️
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
after advise from Shaun last night,
I dry sanded the surface,
carefully cleaned it with pre-prep,
patiently started off with very light dusting of primer,
waiting 15min,
wipe any dust with tack cloth,
spray another light coat,
repeat few times till it's solid and then give a final thick even coat using the reflection of a lamp to ensure a consistant coating
and it's worked this time, no more cracking or fisheye etc
did the same on the nearside with same good result
unfortunately there was a bad squishy bubble here, which I had to scrape off, sand down and build a few thick layers.
I hope it cures fully and can be sanded smooth before the base coat ?
painted the passenger door in the workshop since the weather is unpredictable. once again starting with light dusting working towards a thicker 2 coats
there's still 3 more doors to prep, prime, paint and lacquer over the next few days
I dry sanded the surface,
carefully cleaned it with pre-prep,
patiently started off with very light dusting of primer,
waiting 15min,
wipe any dust with tack cloth,
spray another light coat,
repeat few times till it's solid and then give a final thick even coat using the reflection of a lamp to ensure a consistant coating
and it's worked this time, no more cracking or fisheye etc
did the same on the nearside with same good result
unfortunately there was a bad squishy bubble here, which I had to scrape off, sand down and build a few thick layers.
I hope it cures fully and can be sanded smooth before the base coat ?
painted the passenger door in the workshop since the weather is unpredictable. once again starting with light dusting working towards a thicker 2 coats
there's still 3 more doors to prep, prime, paint and lacquer over the next few days
Nice, looks good.
Yeah, I think a combination of heating in a bit of a curve and some physical fastening should do the trick
Craig
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
indeed I'll do that next time
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
27-06-2021 BC Racing BR Coilovers
Big thanks to Mark aka bushmonkey in the forum for selling his unopened BC BR coilovers. My current BC V1 were getting 11yrs old too, so I obvously just had to immediately go for an impulse purchase
a nice chap to talk to
I'm a happy boy tday with shiny car parts
phwoaa ?
here's a link to when I brought my BC V1 coilovers for comparison
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/post-422090
same pillowball camber adjustable top as the V1 except the adjustment dial is secured with a spanner rather than a knurled sleeve.
front dampers came set at 25/33 clicks (76% hard)
rear dampers set at 22/32 clicks (69% hard)
the BR series feature bearing spring top platform so that as I steer lock 2 lock or the spring naturally twists whilst compressing, it'll move freely.
whereas on the solid fixed platform of the V1, the spring would either violently skip around the platform as I steer, or bind/resist steering, or force the whole assembly to swivel the pillowball, which wears out the spherical bearing prematurely.
so the BR pillowball should last abit longer
the locking rings are a nicely casted & radiused alloy.
notice the lower locking ring has a wider, flared wedging contact face, which should help it stay locked more securely
made on July 2018
front comes with 5kg springs
I believe these damper markings are
T: oil threshold temp 226C
C: oil capacity 80ml
the other side has a higher 245C temperature threshold for some reason?
the V1 in comparison has a smaller 70ml capacity and 212C oil temp threshold
rear springs are 4kg and straight tapered
nicely casted locking rings
much sturdier rear damper mount
rear damper specs:
oil threshold temperature 135c (V1 was just 93c)
oil capacity 56ml (V1 was 43ml)
Stickers!
usual front & rear locking ring collar spanners, allen key & rear adjuster dials
look forward to installing & setting these up
Big thanks to Mark aka bushmonkey in the forum for selling his unopened BC BR coilovers. My current BC V1 were getting 11yrs old too, so I obvously just had to immediately go for an impulse purchase
a nice chap to talk toI'm a happy boy tday with shiny car parts
phwoaa ?
here's a link to when I brought my BC V1 coilovers for comparison
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/post-422090
same pillowball camber adjustable top as the V1 except the adjustment dial is secured with a spanner rather than a knurled sleeve.
front dampers came set at 25/33 clicks (76% hard)
rear dampers set at 22/32 clicks (69% hard)
the BR series feature bearing spring top platform so that as I steer lock 2 lock or the spring naturally twists whilst compressing, it'll move freely.
whereas on the solid fixed platform of the V1, the spring would either violently skip around the platform as I steer, or bind/resist steering, or force the whole assembly to swivel the pillowball, which wears out the spherical bearing prematurely.
so the BR pillowball should last abit longer
the locking rings are a nicely casted & radiused alloy.
notice the lower locking ring has a wider, flared wedging contact face, which should help it stay locked more securely
made on July 2018
front comes with 5kg springs
I believe these damper markings are
T: oil threshold temp 226C
C: oil capacity 80ml
the other side has a higher 245C temperature threshold for some reason?
the V1 in comparison has a smaller 70ml capacity and 212C oil temp threshold
rear springs are 4kg and straight tapered
nicely casted locking rings
much sturdier rear damper mount
rear damper specs:
oil threshold temperature 135c (V1 was just 93c)
oil capacity 56ml (V1 was 43ml)
Stickers!
usual front & rear locking ring collar spanners, allen key & rear adjuster dials
look forward to installing & setting these up
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