PollyMobiles Rebuild

[pollyp]

4 weeks... oh... I best crack on

Iknow, looked at me monthly calender n thought

 

[pollyp]

at the weekend I had a big stone chip in the middle of the windscreen ffs it'll prob be repaired n be annoyingly visible but I'd rather replace the whole windscreen.
over the recent drama I'd forgotten that my insurance automatically renewed before I had chance of phoning about 5days before it runs out, meh.
rang em bout replacing or repairing the windscreen, they said guy will only replace if deemed required, booked to come assess it.
also asked bout my euro cover & breakdown for germany, yep my fully comp has euro cover and the euro breakdown can recover the car all the way back home, thats a relief

ran out of 5w50 n andy gave me some 10w40 to resolve the cold smoking so changed the oil. spark plug tube 1 has oil so have to check whats leaking.

all these years I've always forgotten to replace the pancaked sump washer, no surprise if it's caused one of the oil leak.
now replaced new crush washer

national windscreens van popped by this morning, we pushed car out garage to inspect. he said yeah will need replacing cos it's cracked, Oh fck where the heck that come from, didn't notice yesterday? well suppose I wanted it replaced anyway and to my luck this just makes it happen replacing tomorrow afternoon (guess I'll have to re-make the vinyl sunstrip)

dunno why receiving car bits from postman is always nice but xmas/bday came early

purchased 3L dot5.1 fluid from ebay for £14

yay the OBP bias valve £35 from rallynuts arrived, bit chunkier than I thought
http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport...ves/obp-screw-type-brake-bias-valve-club.html

andy gave me pair of rear disc hoses thx. got pair of t-pieces for the front & rear lines and some 5mm gromets to feed lines through chassis

thinking where could I fit the valve for ease of reach without knocking it?
removed gearstick plastic cover thats in the way.
was gonna feed lines through the passenger bulkhead, bolt the valve to the tunnel side here then run it to the back but doing the plumbing could be tricky

another option that I prefer would be to run the lines underneath the tunnel and mount the valve knob through a hole drilled at the top, T'd to the left/right calipers at the fuel tank. would be much neater

me being me, whats inside this valve?

there's a piston plunger inside but cant pull the outer collar out, don't wanna damage it so leave it

due to lack of labelling I blew through the ports n vary the plunger position to check which way the valves go.

when the dial is fully released exerting no spring force and the plunger inside is fully up, when I blew in via this port it shuts off fully. this meant 0% brake pressure will reach the rears.

when the dial is screwed downwards exerting a spring force down onto the plunger, this keeps the valve more open.
so when I blow through the port, it stays open.
so more brake pressure would be allowed to reach the rear brakes.

whenever the MC brake pressure is released, it's obviously important to allow the rear brake fluid to return back and release the rear brakes so there's some sort of 1-way check valve inside so that whether the dial is fully on/off, I can always blew through the ports in reverse.

 

[Skinner_87]

Paul can I ask what a new screen costs iv had a quote from them though it seems expensive!

 

[pollyp]

Paul can I ask what a new screen costs iv had a quote from them though it seems expensive!

I'm fully comp with adrian flux n pay £90 excess to replace windscreen.

 

[pollyp]

The compartment hinge on Andys Celica has long snapped off (seems to be a common failure) so first step was to dismantle & measure the original components to fit the new design within

next is recreate the original template in CAD

then we can begin redesigning the mechanism.

 

[h701micra]

My precious celica
The K11s have a good hole in the bulkhead you can use to run the line in. Very simple to do

 

[SuperUno]

I am currently running the same brake fluid, ideal in small containers so you only open what you need. Coped well at the last rally we did.

 

[pollyp]

My precious celica
The K11s have a good hole in the bulkhead you can use to run the line in. Very simple to do

#My Precioussss#

Yeah was thinking of feeding it through there but thought it'd be tricky to work it neatly as one-piece round the interior contours plus mounting the adjuster on the corner of the tunnel ain't ideal.

It won't be easy with the engine n rack in place but gotta figure out a procedure to shape the lines from the MC, across down into the tunnel behind the rack, hook up the adjuster mounted under the tunnel, then backwards to the t-piece. good thing I brought two reels of line as practice.

 

[pollyp]

I am currently running the same brake fluid, ideal in small containers so you only open what you need. Coped well at the last rally we did.

nice, good to hear

 

[pollyp]

after few hrs of tweaking, the first hinge design

abit like a cabinet hinge, but imo too complicated n weak. need to simplify to keep it strong

 

[pollyp]

ok the simplified version is to simply beef up the original hinge

thickened the mount end, also gonna run a metal pin between em rather than the flimsy push pin type

narrowed the body to suit the thicker mounts

 

[pollyp]

printed out the parts

came out ok but quite fragile

ah, was gonna glue these together but it's warped too much

hmm fitted onto the lid and Andy I don't think it'll hold cos the hollow prints are very very fragile (compared to the solid injected original brackets) & not meant for high stress such as hinges :/

I'm gonna try reprint the original broken hinge bits but can't guarantee it'll be strong enough.

 

[h701micra]

No worries Paul
Don't stress yourself over it, you're meant to be resting after all lol

 

[pollyp]

front hoses, brake line clips n wideband sensor arrived

the 3yr old sensors been really faulty recently, constantly throwing E8 error codes, prob from heater failure

replaced

also been thinking bout the brake bias plumbing.
fitting the valve under the tunnel would make it tricky to plumb down the bulkhead mess, steering rack, gear linkage & exhaust & fuel tank and obstruct the lower console tray.

looking around, I found this spot could be most suitable.
within easy reach, won't be knocked, can still fit the lower tray and subtle (would be even stealthier if I could fit it through the empty cig lighter but removing the dash would be a pita).
easy to plumb down the bulkhead through the passenger footwell port hole, across into the center console into the bias valve then rearwards to the brakes (have to decide whether via neatly under the tunnel or over the tunnel routing round all the interior contours)

 

[pollyp]

No worries Paul
Don't stress yourself over it, you're meant to be resting after all lol

fixing me car and printing stuff to fix, this is resting ... and having a good late lay in

 

[pollyp]

before the windscreen guys come, I removed the wipers, scuttle, a-pillar trim n see what this crack was, notice the bubbling paint rust round the windscreen

well there's the cause, it's been badly rusting around the windscreen which eventually pushes n cracked the glass. abit worried there's not much good metal left :/

guys were having a hard time removing the glass. it's been replaced before (guessing same time as when this chassis was previously been in a nasty front smash) and been bonded abit too close to the chassis with a tough sealant. was cracking and sending glass bits all over the car
eventually it was cut off n windscreen-less

ah jeez look at that rust, this was badly treated & replaced by the previous fitter

eek not much metal. we wirebrushed as much rust off. they brushed some black etching primer stuff

applied bead of sealant and pushed the new windscreen on with new rubber strip

more streamlined trim eh

gave a good hoover n fitted everything back on, fully cures in few days, -£90 excess. sorted
think about the brakes next

 

[Skinner_87]

Looking good Paul!

I was quoted £180+ vat so il be ringing my insurance company. Not sure if screens are covered though

 

[pollyp]

Looking good Paul!

I was quoted £180+ vat so il be ringing my insurance company. Not sure if screens are covered though

u paying just £180ish for insurance? wish mine was that cheap
fully comp or 3rd?

 

[Skinner_87]

Sorry I mean the quote to replace the window is 180+vat.

Il be ringing the insurance to see if they do windscreen cover.

Fully comp insurance however was only £234 last year

 

[Huggy444]

I win with £160 a year insurance

 

[pollyp]

Sorry I mean the quote to replace the window is 180+vat.

Il be ringing the insurance to see if they do windscreen cover.

Fully comp insurance however was only £234 last year

blimey so replacing a windscreen woulda cost the same as insuring the car

 

[pollyp]

looking at all my photos of the chassis n plumbing layout n sketching a rough idea of where & how to route the new lines, where to join & support it. will take afew attempts to plan out

 

[andy]

how the hell ya getting car insurance for under £200

that i would like to know.

 

[h701micra]

I win with £160 a year insurance

Yours is registered 1.0 with limited mileage though?
And standard really (still cheap mind)

 

[Low Rider]

It's possible to have cheaper cover as a competition vehicle, but you have to jump through a LOT of hoops and it genuinely does have to be a competition vehicle. The cover is however very strict. I'd imagine if it was being used under 'general' terms, i.e. used for social, domestic and pleasure, the policy would likely be invalid.

 

[Huggy444]

It's insured on a motorsport policy, as a 1.4 with limited milage of 2k. And kept in a locked garage... Not sure about what it's covered for

 

[h701micra]

It's possible to have cheaper cover as a competition vehicle, but you have to jump through a LOT of hoops and it genuinely does have to be a competition vehicle. The cover is however very strict. I'd imagine if it was being used under 'general' terms, i.e. used for social, domestic and pleasure, the policy would likely be invalid.

Mines covered as a competition car, their maximum level of cover is TPFT, but doesnt any road insurance have to meet minimum guidelines regardless of a car's use?

 

[pollyp]

to join the engine bay line to the line inside, I'll use a spare coupler

cut off the un-used side and rounded the edges

also chamfered the sharp edges of the bias valve

the t-piece I brought off ebay was badly threaded so had to buy another from local parts store

was removing the seats for easier access and the interiors abit mucky over the years

ahh, clean from some hoover n wiping

ok lets jack it up n assess a plan

was gonna plumb the lines under the tunnel but the gear linkages are close by

but here the path is obstructed by the handbrake mechanism and reinforcement brackets

the t-piece was gonna be at the end of the tunnel and the lines go to the left/right

but this path is heavily obstructed by supporting brackets & fuel lines

after hours of thought, sketched the final paths

in the bay, I'll be utilising some of the original paths n existing mounting clips and then the rear lines pop through this empty gromet at the passenger footwell. (thought about running the lines along the top lip of the bulkhead but drilling the mounting holes would be tricky and tedious)

the lines at the MC would have to clear the PAS, fuel return & servo lines.

the rear lines pop into the footwell via this gromet then connect to a union

it flows under the ECU, up into the bias adjuster, down to the t-piece to split left/right

then go beside the gearstick

across underneath the seat brace

along the sill then through the front of the rear seat well

where it pops along the inner side of the trailing arm mount

and straight into the rear brake point

was a pita to remove the ABS module and the nest of brake lines mostly intact (had to cut off the seized brake hose union ends)

would this spare ABS stuff be of use to anyone orjust chuck it?

 

[h701micra]

Here's a few photos of how I did Alex's

Glad you've gone for that grommet in the end its a safe secure area of the car

Added joins here for his future bias valve. A good join is as good as a solid line

I use ptfe on the very top of the unions (not for thread sealing as the compression of the copper holds the unions together similar to how a spring washer would) it stops dirt ingress to the threads and seizing

 

[pollyp]

Thx for the handy pics. Been thinking I'll need to move the union to make it easier to fit the bay lines. Also reminds me I should redo the fuel lines cos they're getting rusty, what u using?

That ptfe sounds handy especially for the well exposed join to the flexi brake hose that's usually seized. I think perhaps cover it in hot glue or putty after fitting to stop moisture etc getting to it?

 

[pollyp]

to remove the old MC/servo, I had to remove the fuel rail for more room

Mmm the effect of fitting a catch can in the PCV-manifold port is now a bone dry inlet mani with zero oil pool to burn

Oh FFS removing the brake pedal bracket with that steering and clutch assembly in the way and trying to get to those concealed LH nuts must be the hardest thing to do on this car while that seat crossmember on the floor is trying to break ur back when laying on it back breaking work.

old MC off, vs new one

also noticed this PAS tube is resting on the chassis

cut some rubber of the old ABS cable to wrap round it

C3 master with k11 servo fitted, once again breaking my back trying to get the damn nuts back on. this woulda been an impossible task without these flexible ratchet spanners that tom recommended.

and oh Crap, the fuel reg on the 370cc rail fouls the MC
I cant turn it upside down to clear it cos the return port is angled

but hang on I have a spare reg from the past 200sx rail, that has a straight port so it can be upside down

and yay presto it clears. abit close but better than touching or having to reroute the reg.

all the hoses fit n clears. have to tie that PAS hose to one side

cut off this horrid rear brake compensator

rather than unbolt and risk snapping the fuel/brake line supports underneath, I just cut the old brake lines apart n slide it off the brackets

old brake lines all removed

 

[h701micra]

Fuel lines you can get 8mm cupro nickel pipe, same as brakes etc.
For Alex, he had 8mm stainless steel over braided fuel hose. Expensive but worth it

 

[pollyp]

Fuel lines you can get 8mm cupro nickel pipe, same as brakes etc.
For Alex, he had 8mm stainless steel over braided fuel hose. Expensive but worth it

nice I'll have to sort that out soon to replace the rusty and prob kinked fuel lines. the luxery of posh braided lines ain't a priority cos it ain't seen.

work'll continue tomorrow morning cos I'm tired, poor dry hands r waving white flag n I may need to work in the takeaway shop later so keep hands abit clean.
meanwhile lets tinker with the printer

 

[frank]

what about the engine movement tho paul ? even with your modded mounts you will need 20mm+ of clearance surely ?

 

[pollyp]

what about the engine movement tho paul ? even with your modded mounts you will need 20mm+ of clearance surely ?

aye these firmer mounts r few yrs old now n not exactly solid (looking at the susp cam footage on ytube) but nought I can do bout it other than nibble afew mm off the MC corner or fuel reg corner or get the rail remade or remount the reg somehow. I'll see how it does for now.

 

[pollyp]

printed off a hinge for the celica

now andy has a hinged lid, the screw holes will need finishing with a dremel

 

[pollyp]

before fitting the t-piece in the bay for the front lines, I noticed the brake line tool has a bigger dia than the mounting point

so will add space with a nut

scraped the sealant off the bulkhead to create a flat surface to begin drilling

had to change the position slightly

drilled the mount hole

t-piece mounted

sorted out the plumbing of the PAS, fuel return & servo vacuum

fuel hose slightly close so nudged the rubber collar to where it could touch

the plastic brake line clips need reprinting

right lets begin routing the lines with a reel of steel wire

forming the first part of the front lines to the t-piece

now the line to the RH

mounted the union block in the footwell nearest the gromet

now forming the copper lines

to flare the ends, clamp it in the chuck with abit petruding

fit the mould

compress

and flared

fitted nicely

forming the RH lines

to reduce corrosion I wrapped it with electrical tape

and fitted

had to bend the bulkhead lip to fit the spanner

 

[h701micra]

Your cad skills amaze me Paul

And those brake lines look all to familiar and a reminder on the stress they caused me

 

[pollyp]

Your cad skills amaze me Paul

And those brake lines look all to familiar and a reminder on the stress they caused me

hehe simples with the right tools n experience, it's what I do best.

oh gawd yea it took soooo long to plan, plot and fabricate just these two lines correctly the first time, but when it goes right, it looks good good thing I have time and no other commitments

 

[l_jonez]

I've not long done similar on a mates car. A strangely satisfying job

I used heat shrink on the mini lines for protection...

 

[pollyp]

I've not long done similar on a mates car. A strangely satisfying job

I used heat shrink on the mini lines for protection...

ooh heatshrink that's a good idea I'll do that for the fuel lines when I get round to it. cheers

 

[l_jonez]

I got it from this supplier

stores.ebay.co.uk/heatshrinkonline

Can't remember what they called it but it was thicker than normal and had a type of glue/sealant on the inside that self heals if the outer layer is cut/damaged

 

[pollyp]

I got it from this supplier

stores.ebay.co.uk/heatshrinkonline

Can't remember what they called it but it was thicker than normal and had a type of glue/sealant on the inside that self heals if the outer layer is cut/damaged

fantastic, found the adhesive backed tubing. thx for helping

 

[h701micra]

Absolutely, an extremely satisfying job. I had to remake one of Alexs lines because it kinked. Bending them around a 22mm socket is a good way to get tight radius bends without kinking

 

[pollyp]

printed new pair of brake line clips

took afew hrs bending & tweaking the wires for the LH & rear line till they fit & align perfectly.

making the rear lines. handy tip is to tape the wire to the pipes as you bend each corner so u can see which orientation to bend and by how much angle

Mmm aligns luvely

now the tricky part of making the second line to follow alongside the first line

phwoar thats tasty, real chuffed with how well that turned out. worth the 6 hrs it took to get it right.

so tomorrow we flare the ends, wrap the pipes and thats the engine bay lines done, moving into the interior lines

 

[r-reg-sr]

real good.. Look very tasty. I am sure I beat you at removing the mc But all I did was replace for standard darn!

 

[pollyp]

flared ends of the pipes

wrapped in tape

and all fitted

secured to the chassis

working inside, removing the useless ABS

need to remove this hanging ABS plug

cut off the loom

and heatshrink each wire, last thing we need is a short on track

 

[pollyp]

bolted the bias adjuster to the dash frame

took afew attempts to figure out the lines to the adjuster correctly with least amount of bends

bend the pipe

flared

and fitted

cut a section out the lower tray for the adjuster dial

bolted the t-piece to the tunnel

had to bend this lip so it doesn't foul the lines

created line to the t-piece

and cut a slot for the lines in the lower tray

gawd this takes ages. only have the rear left/right lines to do tomorrow then reassemble.

 

[h701micra]

Takes ages indeed
But man its so rewarding
We require another lengthy chat Paul soon

 

[pollyp]

Can't wait to see if this improves how my brakes feel. These few days r ticking by but so much to do.

I may also need to book another Blyton session on 11th to get as much track time I can before m8s weddin in may n Germany trip in July.

Feel free to contact me via any means. We'll meet up before Blyton to fit brace n fix Celica n long chat